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dc-arena

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Posts posted by dc-arena

  2. Posted

    This thread is great. I can’t decide between a Fire Dragon or Thunder Dragon. Other than the front shock, are there any other differences? And how much difference does the Fire Dragon shocks make over the mono?

     

    I think I prefer the look of the Thunder, but it’s close. I had a Thunder Jnr as a kid :)

  3. Posted

    16 minutes ago, moffman said:

    Been there twice it's a good build but if you're going to use it invest in a few bodies because I've got toilet paper stronger than a fighting buggy body and if you can (because they again are becoming hard to find) get the ball diff for it then you won't go through so many bodies👍

    Thanks! I would love one, but with the Egress coming, I may have to hold out. 

  5. Posted

    So the Top-Force Evo also comes with a pre-cut and painted body. I am not sure I like this trend, part of the hobby is body work too. 

    HOWEVER: Applying decals to some cars (looking at you, Lancia Delta Integrale!) it a total nightmare, so if they're going to continue this trend, then I'd wish they'd do the decals too :D

     

    Actually, how about one complete body, and one clear (un-cut, un-painted) in the box, like the Brat did?

     

     

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    4 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

    Looks everything as expected, but really, VQS Tamiya???

    That destroys the whole Re Re box. No money for naming it "Vanquish". Should Aston Martin really be the reason?

    :blink:

     

    Bet it would of been something like that.There's other things called Vanquish (video game etc), but the very fact its a car - even one that looks nothing like an Aston - would of meant its an issue. I worked with licensing cars as part of my job, and can see this sort of thing being a major issue for Tamiya. Wasn't that the reason Fox changed to Nova Fox, due to the motorcross brand Fox? Similar thing.

     

     

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    I’ve ordered a program card today and I am now wondering what the difference is between the two models? The ESC and motor is a Hobbwing 10BL60 Sensored and the 3650 Quicrun brushless. The cards are:

     

    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-xerun-ezrun-quicrun-program-card-for-esc/rc-car-products/377036


    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-general-led-program-card-for-xerun-ezrun-and-quicrun/rc-car-products/442555

     

    any ideas? They both say Quicrun. I ordered the HW86020010

    Thanks!!

  14. Posted

    I want to get a Super Astute before they vanish completely. I remember when people started getting them, one of the parts on the gearbox had something removed from it, like at the factory or something. Was this every resolved? Can you get replacement parts without the issue? Do we know why Tamiya did that?

     

    thanks!

  17. Posted

    59 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

    Your servo probably came with some servo horns, right?  They are plastic (or sometimes aluminium) pieces that have the correct splines in the back to fit over your servo outdrive.  Then you screw them on just as you would a servo saver.

    In order to maintain the correct steering geometry you would have to find one that is similar in length and depth to the Tamiya servo saver.  You might also have to drill out the hole to accept the Tamiya ball screw, as IME servo-supplied horns have very small holes (I guess they're intended for aircraft pushrods).

    Sometimes you can find a servo horn on a Tamiya part tree.  Originally they would have been supplied to operate the mechanical speed controller.

     

    Thanks for info, I will look into this. I am kinda hoping it was just an unlucky failiure of the servo and not as a result of using the high-torque tamiya saver :/

     

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    I never knew you could use a servo horn without a saver. I am not even sure how it'd screw it in place without the saver being there (as in, the screws would be way long, and then the horn would be right next to the servo casing).

    I am confused! :)

  19. Posted

    Update:

    - So I take off servo saver again and try it. It works fine.
    - Put servo saver on, it works fine
    - Turn off, turn on, it works fine
    - Turn off, turn on, servo rams to the right, and you can ear the servo motor pulling against it.

    Its so weird.

     

    OK so now it’s not doing the crazy to pull one side, but after steering one way, it won’t recenter properly. You have to steer the opposite direction, then it will recenter. It does the same when turning the car on.

     

    Could the servo be knackered? I don’t think I’ve set the high torque servo saver up wrong, you just fit together the three rings, right? There’s no adjustment to be made. I’ve got the hop up Tamiya horn too.

     

     

     

  20. Posted

    1 hour ago, Mad Ax said:

    @dc-arena that sounds more like an electrical fault than a mechanical one, although it *could* be a damaged positioning potentiometer.  Have a look at this post - I opened up a micro servo this weekend to remove the potentiometer.  The Alturn probably has something similar and there might be damage or a bad connection.

    Have you tried a different servo and does that also do it?  Does that servo do the same if you plug it into a different radio?  Does it do it / stop doing it if you wiggle the wires?

     

    If I plug another servo in its absolutely fine. I've not tried wiggling wires, I'll give it another go. Thanks!

    It's a weird issue. Maybe it is a bad connection because at one point, I took the saver, horn, steering rods etc off and tested it, and it was fine, then I rebuilt it all, tried the car and it immediately pulls to one side, permanently. Maybe it was when I turned the car over (access is from underneath; MF01X)

    • Like 1

  21. Posted

    2 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

    The rings themselves shouldn't have killed the servo, but the Hi-Torque servo saver transmits more impact into the servo than the stock one does.  Unfortunately the stronger you make the servo saver, the more impact will be transmitted into the servo.  If the servo has plastic gears it might have stripped.

    Did you mean Altus or Alturn?  I have been using Alturn hi-speed and hi-torque metal gear servos for years and found them to be good, but last year I had a couple of very slow ones.  Although oddly I hooked one up two weeks ago and it seemed to be fast again, maybe my radio config had got corrupted (I've had that before on my DX3C where for some reason a setting goes way out of whack and the servo is miles off centre or ridunculously slow and can only be fixed by doing a reset on that model number).

    I meant Alturn (video game hobby merging into RC for brief period then :) ). The servo in question is actually a metal geared one, so not sure what it could be. The servo just goes to one side as soon as it receives power.

    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359785

    It seems to OK for a bit, then will suddenly pull to one side, and wont go back.

     

  22. Posted

    2 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

    Are you using a solid servo horn, or a servo saver?  If you're using the Tamiya servo saver with the Savox then it might be binding.  I have found with Tamiya servo savers in metal servo outputs that the screw and washer can clamp down on the servo saver and stop it from springing back into place.  This doesn't happen with plastic gear servos because the self-taping screw is held tight enough by the plastic that it doesn't need to screw down hard onto the servo saver.  The solution is to slacken off the screw a little and use threadlock to keep it from unwinding, although it's not perfect either way.  You can also put a ziptie around the servo saver spring to increase its tension.

    A better option is an aftermarket servo saver.

    If you have an aftermarket servo saver then check it for play.  It shouldn't have any.  If your servo saver is OK or you're using a solid horn and it's not stripped or loose on the servo, then you'll have to check each part of the steering to see where the play is.  Your Savox servo should be more than up to the job but it's worth checking that the play isn't inside.  Savox servos can usually be rebuilt if it has stripped.  Check the servo is secured properly to the servo posts and the posts are secured properly to the chassis.  Check the steering cranks are securely bolted down and the bushes/bearings haven't failed.  Check the ball-ends haven't worn.  Even in a high-end kit like the XV01 there will be a little bit of play in the ball-ends, there's not much you can do about that, but it shouldn't cause the steering to stick one way or the other hand require constant re-trimming.

     

    I've got new Altus servo which is died only after a few runs. I've been using the Tamiya Hi-Torque servo saver, and one of their aluminium hop-up horns. I wonder if the strong spring (the x3 rings you have to build) for the servo saver has killed the servo.. :/

  23. Posted

    On 5/21/2020 at 11:58 AM, ChrisRx718 said:

    Amazon bites again 

    These Stanley Sortmaster stacking storage boxes are brilliant for RC stuff and keeping organised.

    I already had 3 so this one can stack with the others

    Screenshot_20200521-115431_Gallery.thumb.jpg.7b68a8dc5648b79430945784945b320b.jpg

     

    Or can it?

     

    Screenshot_20200521-115455_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2dc3b30209e3692ccf1e5ed46508b98a.jpg

     

    ...Oh ****. Always read the dimensions and check. At £7 delivered I'm not going to bother returning / replacing it. I'm just not looking forward to my wife coming home to laugh at me now :lol:


    Ordered a couple of the slightly larger ones that are £9, based on your post. They came today, and are definitely handy for storing greases, zip ties, spare screws, Servo tape, craft blades etc and all sorts of stuff. 
     

    I was hoping compartments would be wide enough to store tools like pliers (which are quite wide when open), but still.. very helpful for bits and pieces. Will get some for the garage too. 
     

    thanks! :)

  24. Posted

    Hey guys.

    I’ve ordered my soldering iron gear today so ready to have a play around with some cheap Deans that I’ve bought on EBay to learn before applying it to expensive ESCs!.


    I’ve also got some 14awg wire, which from peoples helpful advice here seems to be what I’ll what for my 10BL60 and 17.5t 3650 Hobbywing.

    Anyway, couple of things I didn’t know I needed to know about, until I ordered them was:

    - Heat shrink size/diameter

    - What type of bullet connector I need

    So, I am I right in thinking 5mm heat shrink is the right size to go for, for 14awg (or 12awg if I ever do that) wire?

    And, what about bullets? This would firstly be for extending the wire run on my XV01 so:

    End of 10BL60 wire -> new extension wire with bullets on both ends -> other end plugs into 3650 Hobbywing motor (which I think are 4mm connectors??)

     

    If anyone could offer advice and maybe even a link to which I need, that’d be so helpful. I’d typically call up Modelsport for sure noob questions, but in obviously they’re closed right now!

     

    thank you!! :)

  25. Posted

    I've got the Rally Beetle, and I do like it, for the most part.

    I'd say

    What I like:
    + Easy to build
    + AWD chassis is a laugh to drive around
    + Quite a few upgrades available for it. Yeah Racing do Long Span suspension conversion kit for it.

    What I don't like:
    - Exposed battery so any rough terrain can and will tear batteries up. A hard case is essential, really
    - Getting to things like the servo basically requires taking the entire car apart
    - I personally find the gear mesh hard to get right because the little hole is tiny so its hard to see. I am old though!
    - It's not great on bumpy terrain, its more suited to flat land
    - Has a high centre of gravity too

    BUUUT. It's fun, and I like zipping it around my loval gravel carpark. 

     

    • Like 2
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