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Ronnyhotdog

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Everything posted by Ronnyhotdog

  1. I started by reading Johnny Retro's scratch building guides aver at Tamiyabase.com . I used his method for the first larger tank and for the second I wrapped some 0.5mm styrene around a cardboard tube from a tinfoil roll(any cylinder/tube you can find will do.) glued with plastic cement and then wrapped another sheet around to strengthen. Be careful with the cement though as the 0.5 is very thin and too much will warp it or melt if completely. best to use a small brush to apply thin coats where needed. Slide the tube out when everything is dry and solid. Then I made the internal bracing to measure. Use masking tape to hold everything in place while glue is drying.
  2. Extended wheelbase Started to scratch build some attachments. These are the steps for the cab that will sit below the door Magnetic body mounts that took a long time to get exactly right but work very well when done. The chassis magnets are attached with super glue... and the lexan magnets with shoo goo. Works a treat. A box for the underside of the truck bed made from 2mm styrene and filled in with well, filler. More detail. The straps are 0.5mm styrene strips cut with a balsa strip cutter I did the buckle with a chisel blade for a craft knife and a small pin vise for the belt holes and a pair of magnifying glasses The fuel tanks were done by using a card tube inner from a tin foil roll. The ends were made by a circular cutter and annoying as badword. to get right. The insides have supports to hold it rigid. Puddy tat An idea of how I want the underside to look The structure at the front is the connector for the cab body. It connects to the cab with L brackets and 3m machine screws Getting it to sit just right was an absolute mare and took ages. It really confused me as to how I going to get the whole to sit correctly and level. Eventually I got it right with an awful lot of trial and error. New wheels and tyres. £17 for 4 complete wheels. A bargain, I think. I had to put in each nut and bolt as they come unassembled. The tyres came with foam insert and are very soft tread Diamond/check plate. This is after a coat of acrylic mat varnish as it was very shiny after I sprainted it with Tamiya silver leaf. The finish was permanently dusty and silver would just wipe off time after time, so I coated it with the matt varnish. It dulled it right down but sealed it very well. Rear light housing after being sprainted with a KOBRA acrylic. The lights are the actual plastic lights from the lexan shell that I cut free and glued in place with shoo goo after I put the decals on from the decal sheet. Painted and detailed boxes and tanks for the underside, with attachment structures in place so the sit right. Had to perform a brutal adjustment for the fuel tank as it would not fit over the chassis. You can see the internal bracing. That's the update. Have to do a lot of re sprainting as the paint I used didn't really adhere to the styrene. I didn't use a primer because I read and thought it would be fine, it wasn't. The green acrylic paint is chipping off quite easily. So a re coat and then gloss varnish, some weathering and then a mat varnish again, I think. I used Tamiya acrylics for the underside attachments, wheel arches, tanks and boxes.
  3. For my G6-01 Build that will be a Russian military truck from the 60s and I'm going to build a Unimog body for it too, because I can, leave me alone, you're not my supervisor. The bearing were £23, which is pretty good, considering the prices I saw in the model shops. Bought from RCBEARINGS
  4. Finally put the metal hinges on my truck bed. Needs some weathering now to cover up the adhesives etc. The screws that came with the hinges were too long for the thin plywood so I dremelled the caps off and super glues then in place. They're very shiny so will need some weathering too. Will need to find a suitable clasping fitting to act as the sliding bolts for the drop gate
  5. I bought an ESS ONE + from the trades here. The engine sounds are model sources not engine type, so there isn't a "diesel" option but there are several suitable options such as rock crawlers, trucks, and what you call Semis. It's a nice compact unit that has a big sound. You can get them $69.98 from asiatees.com Free shipping There are some other models, I have no experience of them, but they are a bit cheaper http://www.rcmart.com/soundslight-simulated-system-p-64457.html?cPath=438_900
  6. Will the damage plastic wheels? Or dunnit' matter?
  7. If £6 is the punishment for our decadent western ways, I think I can deal with that.
  8. I have to say it's ironic that some people think our hobby is a bit sad or they dismiss it, when their pastime is blankly staring at a thin rectangle in their hand or a large rectangle in the corner of the room for hours and hours every day.
  9. Where did you buy yours from? If it was from ebay did you get any import charges?
  10. I'm sure that, like you, as my collection grows the idea of having a remote transmitter for every chassis is simply a waste of space and more importantly money. So, I have some basic question about a multi car transmitter set up. 1. Will transmitters/recievers only work together if they are the same brand? 2. If a transmitter can store 10 car set ups, does that mean I can simply switch to a car memory set up on the transmitter and the transmitter/receiver are automatically paired or must I manually pair each car every time I want to run it? Thanks.
  11. Then I'm sorry to tell you that your conscience can only be clear if you never buy products made in China, India, South East Asia etc. Our comfortable lives in the west are dependent on the exploitation of workers in those countries and it is almost impossible to live a life free from that complicity. From the electronic device that I am typing on and that you are looking at right now to the clothes we are wearing. Now that's heavy.
  12. Wouldn’t the supplied ESC be able to power both if it’s designed for a duel servo model?
  13. Do I need a special ESC or receiver to make the second servo work? Thanks.
  14. "I'd like to share a revelation that I've had during my time here. It came to me when I tried to classify your species, and I realised that you're not actually mammals. Every mammal on this planet instinctively develops a natural equilibrium with the surrounding environment; but you humans do not. You move to an area and you multiply, and multiply, until every natural resource is consumed and the only way you can survive is to spread to another area. There is another organism on this planet that follows the same pattern. Do you know what it is? A virus. Human beings are a disease, a cancer on this planet, you are a plague, and we...are the cure." - Agent Smith. The Matrix
  15. Can you tell me what this measuring device is, please, or where I can get one?
  16. The GF-01 does look a better suit considering what I had in mind. It was to be a version of this SHERPA ATV But the drive system required to make it work is tank drive type where steering is done by reversing the opposing wheels and I can't see how that is doable. I suppose I could build a model that only goes forward and aback but what is the point in that? It's a great machine, but the skill to make it work is far beyond me, at this stage, anyway. But when I am skilled enough, I will make it because it looks fantastic. A file for the "one day" folder.
  17. Want to know if it is possible to put these monsters on a WR-02 chassis https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/sling-shot-3.8-traxxas-style-bead-sand-tires-mounted-on-desperado-black-1/2-offset-17mm-wheels/ Not the wheels, but the tyres. They are 15.6cm/6.1 inches high and so the wheelbase will accommodate them with a maybe 20mm gap between the tyres. The only issue is the motor that protrudes fro the chassis, does anyone know how far is sticks out. Can anyone see a major issue with this idea before I buy the WR-02 chassis. Thanks. Edit: now realise the turning circle will be non existent without some modification of the steering system and axle extention. That's doable though, right?
  18. Thanks @Juggular I want to mount these https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/sling-shot-3.8-traxxas-style-bead-sand-tires-mounted-on-desperado-black-1/2-offset-17mm-wheels/ to a standard 4mm axle, not the wheels but the tyres, as they are ideal for a project I want to do. Do you think the adapter is a bad idea, then?
  19. Are there standardised wheel hubs, nut and bolts for RC, like servos? Would 3.8 inch wheels fit on a Tamiya 1/10 chassis? I mean would the hole be the same size, not if the wheel and tyre would actually fit.
  20. I only ever pay using paypal with overseas, especially China. If it doesn't arrive simply charge back the money from their paypal account and let paypal deal with their whining. They have to agree to charge back conditions, otherwise paypal will not let them use their service.
  21. RCMart is about 10 days for me with standard shipping. Ordered some stuff from banggood.com weeks ago and still nothing, so I guess it depends on what shipping companies these Chinese stores decide to use.
  22. MEIN GOTT! Stupefying! You have to display this after completion. There are competitions to enter, too.
  23. If I can find the conical wheel hubs big enough, I can cut out the inner wall of these tyres at the first groove they will be a very, very good match. Getting them to a low profile tyre will be the tricky part. Then glue them to the new wheel hubs.
  24. Thanks to your link I finally found some strap hinges for my wooden truck bed. Thanks @Kingfisher https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-Fully-Metal-Hinges-for-1-12-R-C-Scale-Soviet-ZIS-150-151-Truck-Bed/142438051034?hash=item2129f82cda:g:wfEAAOSwbopZXv8y
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