Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About akuhon

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Another cheap upgrade is to buy shims / spacers. This chassis is notorious for its wobble. From axle, shaft, steering and gears Don't throw yet your plastic bushing. It might become handy to fix the wobble inside your axle.
  2. Good info. Before Tamiya Defender comes, there was RC4WD polycarbonate D90 body (not the hard ABS one) and it's quite long. Need to use Touareg propeller shaft.
  3. Wise decision. replace the plastic bushings with ball bearings. Cheers,.
  4. Thanks for the advice. I'd love to remove it, but unfortunately I don't have any original pics anymore. As I said, this is an old project of mine circa 2012. It was posted on a website where it is defunct. I only manage what's left. Sorry for that. Cheers
  5. D. Front Gear Modification In this phase I did the following : 1. Spur gear modification I changed the stock spur gear into 32 pitch spur gear size. For this purpose, I used RC10GT spur gear made by RRP (Robinson Racing Product). Material made from Delrin with 59T (32P 59T). Beside that, we use grey paperboard usually found in Tamiya kit for stock motor. The steps as follows : 1. Cut the center paperboard according to the center of stock CC01 spur gear. 2. Installed on stock CC01 spur gear 3. Made 2 screw holes or more according to holes on the papeboard. Using pin vise with 3mm drill bit 4. Cut the front part of the spur gear which cover the screw holes. 5. Gave mark on the paperboard that's just installed. 6. Drilled the 32P center spur gear according to the diameter size of stock center spur gear holder. 7. Cut the stock tamiya spur gear on the outside and 32P spur gear on center, then installed using screw / bolt. After being installed, the spur gear with 32P was ready. Spur gear modification, done. 2. Torque increasing [to be continued]
  6. Been playing a lot with CC-01 since 2000. Heard CC-02 will come and already see what it looks like. I still prefer CC-01 'cause it's an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) SUV, resembling almost all modern chassis right now. This is a project I did awhile ago (around 2012). I still have some documentation so hope to share with everyone here. I. Introduction Basically, here are some heavy modification I've made : 1. Resize physical dimension : heighten, lengthen, widen 2. Gear mod reduction 3. Servo mod. position. 4. Lightning installation etc. Because this project was made on 2012, I'm not sure the components I list here, will still be available or not. If not, you can find some alternatives out there, or you can custom-fit fi you have proper tools. The tools I used mostly from Proxxon for drilliing and cutting (no milling) I will keep updating the page with info, but first I will post some pics Video (sorry, a bit blurry) Specification : Chassis : Tamiya CC-01 (58324 Volkswagen Race Touareg) Body : Proline Descender (Suzuki Vitara / Escudo / Sidekick) Color : Tamiya Camel Yellow Additional parts : 3Racing, Yeah Racing, Axial, RC4WD Grafx / decals : offroad 4x4 by Yandra Wheels : 1.9 beadlock Mopar-style by Nopi (Nop The Builder) Tire : RC4WD 1.9 Rox Lok Shaft : Axial (dual) Links : 3Racing Shock : Yeah Racing Shackle : RC4WD Wheel Hex : Junfac Knuckle : GPM Racing Purpose : Extreme Adventure Cross Country - Medium Crawler A. Heightened For this purpose, there are 3 things I did : 1. Using high clearance knuckle There are 2 product from 3Racing, each only need 1 pair (left and right), as follows : a. For front part : 3Racing High Clearance Knuckle For CR-01 (CR01-26/LB) b. For rear part : 3Racing High Clearance Knuckle For AX10 Scorpion (AX10-32/GR) Both products will give additional height 15mm significantly for this rig to overcome any obstacles. Also widened the left to right tire distance 2. Using large diameter wheels and tires I'm using RC4WD 1.9 Rox Lok tires for this rig. One of tallest tires for 1.9 3. Arm and shock damper setting and replacement. Replace the stock dampers with longer ones. It will change the height of the chassis. For the front, I used 3Racing alum long damper for 1/8 buggy front For the rear, just used the longer shock damper based on the length of the rear axle link that will be used. Heightened Front Rear B. Widened To widen the chasis, beside using high clearance knuckle, I did the following : 1. For front Longer suspension arm replacement.. I used Tamiya 53467 TL01/FF02 Long span suspension arm, but only the rear arm. This modification will effect other parts and will be described in built process 2. For rear using wheel widener. No modification necessary, just replace standard hex wheels with wider ones Widened Front Rear C. Lengthened The purpose for this, is to get more articulation and better track coverage. By lengthening the wheelbase, this rig will be more flexible on certain degree. This lengthened purpose was done on the rear side.The front side, not much to do because of this CC01 chassis doesn't use axle. For this purpose, I did the following : 1. Longer linkage replacement. Beside longer, the linkage is also bended a bit to give more clearance 2. Changing linkage mounting on chassis I drilled new holes according to the intended wheelbase I want. 3. Longer propeller shaft because of longer linkage I used double shaft to accommodate this with pilot hub. Later I will show in the built process Lengthened II. The Build-up Process Let's start it. I will also inform you about the parts I use in this process. A. Front Suspension To get more space (widen) between left and right tires, I chose rear suspension arm from Tamiya TL01-LA (the front arm had been used for other prooject). Before I choose this arm, I'd been thinking of using TL01B (buggy) arm, but it's way too long. It'd become problem to modify the rear part. Configuration: Arm : Tamiya TL-01 long suspension arm, rear (code : 53467) Shaft : 3Racing Swing Shafts for Tamiya TA05 (46mm) (code : TA05-26) Knuckle : 3Racing High Clearance Knckle for CR-01 (code : CR01-26/LB) C-Hub : GPMRacing CC-01 C-Hub (code : CC019) Suspension Shaft : Tamiya DF-02 U-Shaft (code : 51082) Brace : RC Channel Front A Arm Brace set (code : TC80924) Front Skid Plate : RC Channel Alum fr. skid plate (code : TC82901) Pictures Steps as follow : Step 1 : Suspension Arm -> widened TL-Suspension arm must be modified first, especially the inner part that touch to arm brace and knuckle. it must be trimmed to fit for other part. Use shim if it became too loose. The modified / cutting parts After cutting Modified arm (right side) and unmodified one (left side) Step 2 : C-Hub Mods The C-Hubs that will be used yang were from GPMRacing. In term of shae, there's no difference between GPM and stock Tamiya CC-01 hubs, except the material (blue anodized alum vs plastics). Because the c-hub that will be used was c-hub for CC01 and the suspension arm from TL01-LA we need to do a little mod. C-hub diameter was 1 mm bigger than TL01-LA suspension arm (It's 3mm dia. vs CC01 C-hub 4mm). What I did was to insert a small steel tubing with 1 mm thickness into the CC01 C-hub. The tubing length must be cut accordingly. GPM CC-01 C-hub after mod The right side, after insertion of steel tubing. The left side, not insert yet. closer inspection Only the lower hole need the steel tubing to become 3mm diameter. Step 3 : Knuckle Mods and 1st attempt to replace dogbones with universal shaft -> Heightened PLEASE DON'T FOLLOW YET, THE DOGBONES REPLACEMENT WITH UNIVERSAL SHAFT, AS I WILL EXPLAIN FURTHER IN STEP 6 BELOW Standar use of this knuckle, only need dogbones with the length matched the suspension arm that will be used. It's because this knuckle already has its own wheel axle works just like normal / common wheel axle. Knuckle High Clearance CR-01 The only different is that it has gearbox on it. Inner structure of this knuckle has 3 parts : wheel axle, metal bushing and gear with specification as follows (in = inside gearbox knuckle, out = outside gearbox knuckle) : 1. Wheel axle : in = 4mm and out = 5mm 2. Bushing : in = 740 (2 pcs) and out = 850 (2 pcs) 2. Gear : in = 10T and out = 15T -> ratio 1:1,5 This structure is valid for both knuckle AX10 and CR-01. Inner side of AX10 or CR-01 high clearance knuckle type CR-01 High Clearance Knuckle AX10 High Clearance Knuckle The differences are on the outer shape and the type of wheel axle that go inside gearbox. The other parts remain the same including the bearing size. The modification I did was to replace the dogbones with universal shaft (CVD) which will connected to wheel axle. So I had to find and modified the right universal shaft to be fit inside the gearbox knuckle. It would also replace the stock wheel axle that came with this knuckle. It's done by cutting and downsizing the wheel axle's diameter. Also setting the hole position for the pin insert. Lucky, the pin hole position was exactly the same between 3Racing TA05 universal shaft and stock wheel axle of this knuckle. No drilling necessary to create new hole. TA05 universal shaft wheel axle and CR01 knuckle high clearance wheel axle Before cutting and downsizing After The assembly of universal shaft, continued with the installation on gearbox After installation and close the gearbox, the next step is bushing replacement with ball bearing. Need 4 bearings with 2 different size. Also the plastics on C-hub, need 4 bearings size 850 Step 4 : Brace dan Front Skid Plate In this step,the completed suspension arm with C-hub and knuckle, will be attached to the chassis on a pair of brace (independent brace for left and right side). This brace will be screwed on skid plate. As for the suspension shaft, I used Tamiya DF02 U-shaped shaft. I had to trim with file a bit,the touching parts between the suspension arm and brace / skid plate so the arm can move freely (remember, I was using TL01-LA arm which wasn't designed for this brace. This brace only work with CC01 arms). During the installation, the TA05 universal shaft, still could get inside the cup joint but not that deep. Closer inspection revealed that on certain position, especially during turning, one of the pin was on the edge of the cup joint lips. This was not favorable since it will bounce out unexpectedly. This will be determined later after the damper shock installation Step 5 : Shock Installation -> Heightened The shock length I used for front suspension arm is 70mm eye-to-eye. This decision was made after lot of consideration. But the main reason was to make the suspension arm not too flat nor too steep. I tried between 60-90mm length. Shock mounting was done against the normal CC-01 normal shock mounting position. This was due to steering servo position that will be attached on the front end side of chassis. To make steering link move freely. the shock must be placed behind the suspension arm (see the pics) With such shock damper placement, the angle will be better where the distance between left and right wheels will be more. Also the ground clearance will be taller Angle between cup joint, universal shaft and knuckle Step 6 : Further universal shaft modification (additional info from step 3 above) -> widened Configuration New Shaft : 3Racing (#FW06-07) Front Swing Shaft For FW06 After shock installment from previous step, I realized that one end of the shaft not stay deep enough inside the cup joint. Therefore, I looked for some alternatives, longer universal shaft. After searching and read some reference, I decided to use 3Racing universal shaft, front. When it arrived, I had to check if it's fit or not. TA05 vs FW06 drive shaft After disassembly and initial measurement, all dimension are totally different, including the pin hole position. Length of universal shaft Shaft only Unaligned FW06 pin hole Different size between TA05 and FW06 1. Pin size 2. Shaft end to cup joint 3. Shaft thickness AFter further inspection, both shaft end (TA05 and FW06) which attached to wheel axle are the same. Same shaft joint size So I modified by using the shaft axle of FW06 and wheel axle of TA05. Done ? Not yet. I also did the following : 1. Modified cup joint to accomodate larger pin size from 2mm to 3mm Cup join expansion Left expanded, Right not yet expanded (original CC01) 2. Cup joint diameter expansion from 6mm to 7mm Left original CC-01. Right side, after expansion Universal shaft with C-hub still had some space in between. (See the red marking) The only concern for this modification was how strong the cup joint because I already cut 1mm each. But I already prepare with Tamiya 53218 Hard Jont cup set, which I hope stronger than stock one. This mark the end of front suspension modification. B. Rear Suspension For rear suspension there are several modification to use AX10 high clearance knuckle. Also side position for link mounting were necessary to give more articulation and high clearance where needed. Shock damper position also played important role to stabilize the chassis. Initial confiuration : Axle : Tamiya CC-01 stock axle from the kit Knuckle (to be modified) : 3Racing High Clearance Knuckle For AX10 Scorpion (AX10-32/GR) Linkage : 3Racing Threaded Aluminum Pipe 6 x 101-A30 For AX10 Scorpion (AX10-13/GR) Damper set : 90mm Damper Set TI for 1:10 Buggy/Bigfoot 2pcs (YR DP-1006TI) Shackle : RC4WD steel shooter shackles (Z-S0502) The steps as follows : Step 1 : Axle shaft mods -> heightened First modification were for axle shaft to accomodate 3Racing AX10 high clearance knuckle Both side end, must be cut as necessary so the high clearance knuckle can be fit tightly. Beside cut, both side diameter must be reduced up to 4mm (The CC01 original size is 5mm) Comparison pics, stock and reduced shaft diameter. Short shaft Long shaft I also locked the gear drive with stock plastic parts from CC-01 gear set. Step 2 : Axle housing mods -> heightened Next, the axle housing modification was done by cuttng some protruding parts which could interfere the knuckle mounting process. There are 2 parts that must be cut (on both side) : near the shaft holes and on the edge part of screw hole red line marking = cut off limit To make it not to hit the knuckle part which marked by red arrow. Axle housing mods near the screw edge Below pic was stock housing from the kit, above were the ones already cut. Left side Right side After this steps, the shafts were ready to be put inside the housing. Please not to use part D14 as instruct in CC01 manual because the pin hole for the pin wheel wouldn't appear on high clearance knuckle. After proper installation On axle housing, we only need 4 holes on the middle to be screwed. While the other 4 (each 2, on both end) must be drilled to 3mm diameter. The purpose was to hold the high clearance knuckle to axle housing on the next step. Step 3 : High clearance knuckle assembly -> heightened Installation was quite easy if the previous steps were done correctly. Started by replacing all the bushing with ball bearing with proper size. After axle shaft entered the shaft hole on knuckle, the pin hole should appear on knuckle housing This pin hole must be seen with the purpose of holding the gear inside the knuckle using pin wheel. Pin inserted, did it to both end. Next step was to make knuckle holder Step 4 : Knuckle mounting to axle housing -> heightened In this steps, I made custom 4 pieces rectangle using fiber material (this material usually found for Printed Circuit Board). Other material can be used, but I prefer to use this 'cause I can find it easily. 2 pieces for each side, placing on top and bottom. I called it : knuckle holder The thickness of this knuckle holder must be fit based on the distance between axle and knuckle Next, drilled holes according to the screw hole position on axle housing On step 2 above, 3mm holes had been made on both side of axle housing. The purpose was to clamp the knuckle holder on axle using nuts and bolts. We also had to make additional holes on the middle of previous holes to fit the knuckle king pin. I did only on top holder for both side and not for the bottom holder. I used 2.6mm drill size, for screwing 3mm bolt. The end result looked like these. Front view Top view Step 5 : Link mount (upper and lower) -> lengthened For upperlink, I used Axial SCX10 - 4 link made of strong plastics material. For lower link I forgot where I bought it. Sorry The lower link mounting also being used as lower shock mounting. Step 6 : Rear mounting assembly on chassis -> lengthened In this step, I made mounting hole for linkage and shock damper on chassis. The location of mounting hole would depend on how long the wheelbase be. The linkage I used was from 3Racing bended linkge for Axial AX-10. Beside drilling some holes, I had to cut some parts as well. Drilling Pass through Next, mounting hole for shock damper The upper shock mounting was connected to RC4WD shackle. I drilled 2 holes to mount this shackle to chassis each side. This shackle made more articulation possible on this chassis Final picture of moutning position for linkage and shock damper. l Retract position of the shackle (only the part that connect to shock damper could move. While other parts of shackle stay still. All mounting position on axle Tahap 7 : Double propeller shaft assembly -> lengthened To accomodate longer wheelbase, I made double propeller shaft instead of single one. Therefore I had to custom made a pilot hub to connect 2 propeller shaft For the propeller shaft, at 1st I used stock plastic shaft from axial. Later I replaced with JunFac Carbon Steel props shaft The configuration of pilot hub : 1. Custom made U-shape alum holder 2. Unused plastic knuckle (I used TA04 knuckle) 3. Ball bearing 1150 4. Short shaft dia. 5 mm Pilot hub assembly Looked like this after finish Side 1 Side 2 Pilot hub location on chassis After clean up Installation With the end of this step, then the rear suspension build was done. Complete assembly of chassis from bottom (still using stock AX-10 plastic propeller shaft) C. Front Steering Servo Assembly There were 3 steps I did on this process : 1. Chassis trimming / cutting the front side for servo placement 2. Servo mounting, assembbly and installation 3. Steering link installation Actually I spent 3 chassis to find the right position for cutting the front side and also for servo mount location. This was the 3rd attempt and found out the best of 3. Also for steering link, I had done 2 attempts to find the best one. On the following steps, I only provide what's the best. Step 1 : Chassis trimming For this purposes I made several cutting as seen on pics below. a. Front side chassis CC-01 b. Cutting c. More cutting d. Cleaning the extra material (red marking) e. The result Closer look f. After clean up Step 2 : Servo mount assembly In this step, I had to make servo holder which will be attached to chassis. The material were made from alum and the position was lay down. Several attempts had been tried but the best position was this in term of servo link movement, space required and strength. The process as follow : a. Alum material cut as necessary, based on the standar servo size length and wide. b. Cut the middle part for servo c. Another cut d. End result e. Next, another cut on chassis (marked with red circle) and drilled some holes for 2mm diameter bolt (marked by blue circles). Closer f. Finish, installed the servo mount on chassis front view Done for this step. Next, steering link Tahap 3 : Steering link In this step, not much I did. Only bending the linkage, make it straight first then bent it as necessary. I made 2 link with different toe setting. Closer look after installment This is the end of modification for Front Steering Servo assembly D. Front Gear Modification [to be continued....]
  • Create New...