Jump to content

Mahjik

Members
  • Content Count

    199
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

149 Excellent

About Mahjik

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas City, MO

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The first thing I would check is to make sure the dogbones are engaging properly. The stock dogbones do require something on either side of them to keep them "in place". I've used cut ball point pen springs but ended up using some cut pieces of automotive silicone vacuum tubing jammed in there to keep the dogbones in place.
  2. How about an Egress? https://www.rcjaz.com/tamiya-58583-110-rc-egress-2013-p-90063651.html
  3. My votes would be either for a Sand Viper or a Frog.
  4. Here's a good video about removing the glue:
  5. If the 74085 tool set did a good job for you, I would just get another set. I'm using the same tool set but have some other specialty tools that I've picked up along the way (like some Integy turnbuckle wrenches, Dynamite hex drivers, and various other tools). While the MIP tools are great, those seem overkill for the price and use for me. I'm not racing nor competing so I don't need top of the line tools (and have never broken a tool on my R/C's). Not every tool in my garage for me cars is a SnapOn tool.
  6. The core game/sim is free. However, the content is not. I bought it from a HumbleBundle deal which had all the current content in the bundle. I haven't used the onroad content, just the offroad. My opinion, is that it's a decent practice tool. However, I found the viewing perspective harder than real life and air control seems more simplified than real life. Still a great tool. Also, being able to play with various ESC settings before messing with your own is also nice.
  7. Everyone is going to have a different opinion as each RC car will inspire a different feeling in everyone. For me, within the budget you are looking I would consider: Novafox Stadium Blitzer However, another option is to spend a little more and pick up a Super Astute (which would be my recommendation).
  8. It's a forced stock spec mode which doesn't allow ECU timing or boost, typically used for non-mod race groups. The ESC will "Blink" showing it's in the "spec mode".
  9. They don't cause any harm: https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/lucas-oil-x-tra-heavy-duty-grease/169278_0 Plastic Safe: Yes
  10. I don't use RC grease. The only car so far I've had to use something out of the ordinary was my DN01 (faucet grease for the ball diff). Other than that, I use varying automotive greases. I have a 3 pack of Lucas Oil greases that I use depending on the application: https://www.mylucasoil.com/products/3oz-grease-3-pack?variant=11929222971435
  11. Had a weekend at the track, and had a little bit of time for playing with my camera...
  12. Sounds is probably going to be pretty subjective. On my DN01, I have a Tekin RS Gen2 ESC with a Trinity 24K 17.5 and it sounds like a whisper compared to other cars I've been around at the track.
  13. Welcome hanzo, Have you tried putting back the original 18T pinion to see if it spins again? The reason I ask is that it's possible the current problem has nothing to do with the pinion itself, but just a coincidence that it happened when changing the pinion.
  14. Back at the track again, unfortunately not a great visit. I looked at the motor on the DN01 and it was listed with a default timing of 50 on it. However, I looked and it shipped to me at 20. I increased the timing to the default was supposed to be and ran it. It had a little more pep at the top end, but I'm going to switch to a smaller pinion to get a little more acceleration. Some of the jumps have a short run so I need a little bit quicker acceleration to clear those. The DN01 ran well for the first battery pack. However, on the second pack, the rear upright broke after a jump. Not all that surprising as something was bound to break at some point so I have the aluminum rear uprights on order. I almost bought those originally when I built it and thought I did but apparently I did not. I replaced the servo on the XB4 with a Muchmore low profile. Never got a lap in.... I had adjusted the end points but the servo was just crap. After two or three turns, the servo would stick to one side. Protek 160T coming but it will be a few weeks before I can get back. All in all, a little disappointing visit this time around (since it's quite a drive to and from the track), but looking forward to the next visit.
×
×
  • Create New...