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Everything posted by Mahjik

  1. The core game/sim is free. However, the content is not. I bought it from a HumbleBundle deal which had all the current content in the bundle. I haven't used the onroad content, just the offroad. My opinion, is that it's a decent practice tool. However, I found the viewing perspective harder than real life and air control seems more simplified than real life. Still a great tool. Also, being able to play with various ESC settings before messing with your own is also nice.
  2. Everyone is going to have a different opinion as each RC car will inspire a different feeling in everyone. For me, within the budget you are looking I would consider: Novafox Stadium Blitzer However, another option is to spend a little more and pick up a Super Astute (which would be my recommendation).
  3. It's a forced stock spec mode which doesn't allow ECU timing or boost, typically used for non-mod race groups. The ESC will "Blink" showing it's in the "spec mode".
  4. They don't cause any harm: https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/lucas-oil-x-tra-heavy-duty-grease/169278_0 Plastic Safe: Yes
  5. I don't use RC grease. The only car so far I've had to use something out of the ordinary was my DN01 (faucet grease for the ball diff). Other than that, I use varying automotive greases. I have a 3 pack of Lucas Oil greases that I use depending on the application: https://www.mylucasoil.com/products/3oz-grease-3-pack?variant=11929222971435
  6. Had a weekend at the track, and had a little bit of time for playing with my camera...
  7. Sounds is probably going to be pretty subjective. On my DN01, I have a Tekin RS Gen2 ESC with a Trinity 24K 17.5 and it sounds like a whisper compared to other cars I've been around at the track.
  8. Welcome hanzo, Have you tried putting back the original 18T pinion to see if it spins again? The reason I ask is that it's possible the current problem has nothing to do with the pinion itself, but just a coincidence that it happened when changing the pinion.
  9. Back at the track again, unfortunately not a great visit. I looked at the motor on the DN01 and it was listed with a default timing of 50 on it. However, I looked and it shipped to me at 20. I increased the timing to the default was supposed to be and ran it. It had a little more pep at the top end, but I'm going to switch to a smaller pinion to get a little more acceleration. Some of the jumps have a short run so I need a little bit quicker acceleration to clear those. The DN01 ran well for the first battery pack. However, on the second pack, the rear upright broke after a jump. Not all that surprising as something was bound to break at some point so I have the aluminum rear uprights on order. I almost bought those originally when I built it and thought I did but apparently I did not. I replaced the servo on the XB4 with a Muchmore low profile. Never got a lap in.... I had adjusted the end points but the servo was just crap. After two or three turns, the servo would stick to one side. Protek 160T coming but it will be a few weeks before I can get back. All in all, a little disappointing visit this time around (since it's quite a drive to and from the track), but looking forward to the next visit.
  10. The first one was a Savox SC-1251MG. If you do some searches on that one, you'll see similar reports with that servo stripping gears with heavy use. Latest was a Muchmore CDS10 (just crap from the start). I'll have to look the other one up I bought and tried. This is for an Xray XB4 which is track driven so it's exposed to harsher conditions than if someone is running their car without them flying through the air every 15 seconds. However, that does show that under heavy abuse, these just don't hold up. I am ordering a Protek 160T to move forward. FWIW, the Savox SC-1258TG is working flawlessly in the DN-01 which is used on the track as well. Other things have broke at the track with that buggy, but not the servo. I also have the Savox SC-0251 in my Hotshot but it never sees anything remotely close to an offroad race track.
  11. If not wanting to spending a lot of money, I would recommend against low profile servos unless the buggy requires it. What I've experienced, is that the lower costs low profile servos are very fragile and/or not designed for offroad use. I've recently been through 3 brand name low profile servos and I'm getting ready to finally pay good money for a good one. Basically, I have spent now on low profile servo's. (in USD) $60, $75, $70... I'm now going to go ahead and buy a quality one and spend about $120. I originally didn't want to spend that much on a servo. The reason I bring this up is that very good normal size servos sell for the price of the cheap low profile servos and work extremely well. This is the reason I don't recommend low profile servos unless you have to have one.
  12. All the motors will have pretty much the same top RPM. The difference is how quickly it gets to that top RPM. However, when you throw in a large age/generation difference between motors, it's hard to say without just trying them both back to back.
  13. I'm not that hardcore, but this is something you could look into: \
  14. The batteries I have been using are Lectron Pro from Common Sense RC. I reached out to them and they are replacing the battery (fantastic customer service).
  15. I'm expecting the ball diff to likely get melted with prolonged use. I will probably transition to a more modern 2wd buggy and move the DN01 to a shelf queen as I learn how to drive. I have read many posts on those ball diffs requiring rebuilds so I figured I could get a few months of learning how to drive before the first needed rebuild. I goal was to use it until the first meltdown and then retire it from track use. Yep, I'm going to look at a little timing on the motor and likely drop down one tooth on the pinion. That would still keep me close to FDR for the motor. The motor is a Trinity 24K 17.5 which was a good motor a few years ago. However, compared to today's 17.5, it's just not as peppy. I just mostly need just a little umpf to make sure I clear one of the doubles. I'll likely never race it so technically there is no reason to run it in blinky mode. I was just trying to get used to blinky mode in the event I wanted to jump into a race sometime in the near future (after I can completed a handful of laps without rolling). BTW, I also tried some organic based tire sauce: https://www.tdkrepair.com/product-page/highgripsauce Granted, at my level, tire sauce is the last thing to look at but I was curious. I had heard the horror stories of the toxic stuff most people used and had no desire to participate. However, when I saw some racers talking about this, I had to try it. It does smell like coconut, so you can apply it indoors. It's not a strong smell that lingers for days and you don't need chemical gloves to apply it. Not sure if it was the track, the tire sauce, or the tires just getting broken in (I suspect all of the above) but I was really fighting grip rolling with the last trip to the track. I think I grip rolled more than I wiped out from jumps.
  16. They do have a search function that you can search within and only in a group. I used it for my DN01 build. It's not the easiest to find though. I use FB for public event tracking and just keeping in touch with family. I understand why some forums have moved. There are operating costs, most of the time, for forums and there are no direct out of pocket operating costs using FB. I do agree it's much harder to keep up with the FB groups and locate the information you need quickly. FB has made improvements in this space to continue to lure message forum owners, but it has room for more improvements in that space.
  17. Depending on your spur gear, I don't think you could go much bigger than a 36T. I'm using 32T and I'm almost out of space on the motor plate.
  18. I'm noticing a theme with the paints..
  19. You'll want "Team Associated 7460 B4/T4 Molded Gear Cover". It's fits really well but it is a little larger on the edges. You can't tell unless you are the car owner. I went back last week, and I was getting better. The DN01 continued to perform well. Although, I can tell my 17.5 is not as snappy as some of the more current 17.5's. Granted, I'm not racing, but I do have it in blinky mode so no boost. I can tell as the other 17.5 cars are able to clear some of the jumps easier even if they screw up the previous corner where as I need to maintain more corner speed to clear some of them. I did get a lot more brave the last trip and started working the jumps more. Unfortunately, the XB4 servo did the same thing again. I pulled the servo apart at the track, it fixed itself so I went back out. After the first jump, it did it again. I looked it up and apparently the servo just isn't suited for offroad so I ordered a new servo. I plan to heat back to the track next week and hopefully be able to run both buggies. I did notice one of my Lipo packs did puff a bit. I don't know why. I'm only charging at 1C and I do storage charge after the track (and I'm not running them down to Lipo cut). At least the IR doesn't seem too far off the other packs currently.
  20. Looks like the manufacturer sizes are pretty spot on: https://www.horizonhobby.com/storefronts/onyx/72v-3000mah-nimh-sub-c-stick%3A-standard-plug-p-onxp5311 FWIW, I use the Venom NiMH batteries with my Hotshot and their sizing was pretty spot on as well. Although, the downside was that I needed a converter for the connector (or had to solder a new connector).
  21. If the manufacturer can't get their own measurements right, there isn't much anyone can do about that (except post negative reviews for said manufacturer so they hopefully fix their own practices). All of the reseller sites are just going to post whatever the manufacturer provides anyway (i.e. they aren't going to do their own measurements).
  22. I've never had a problem with any measurement of a NiMH or Lipo pack to date. They have been spot on for me. I've even bought some off brands and the measurements that were listed on the sites I ordered were the exact of what was received. If the measurements aren't matching, I would look more at where you are ordering from...
  23. You should be able to find the exact dimensions online like here: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/horizon-hobby-best-brands/backorder/onyx/72v-4600mah-nimh-sub-c-stick%3A-standard-plug-p-onxp5467 Dimensions: 5.5 x 1.8 x 0.94" (139 x 46 x 24mm)
  24. As mentioned, it was an example of what is in the used market. Wasn't intended as a "buy this", it was intended as just showing what can be bought and what are some example pricing.
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