Blissard

Thank you for the reply! I have just noticed that there's one H2 Flanged on the main shaft so I tried it on the missing place and it won't fit. I've noticed the following problems; -Dimensions of the H2 I have seem to be slightly different than the flanged bearing on the link, but it fits the clutch gear perfectly. -The G7 shaft I have is much smaller in diameter compared to H2 center bore but the shaft fits the metal plate and housing perfectly. - The H2 won't fit inside the small gear. - Neither the H2 nor the small gear seem to fit between clutchgear and motor. Maybe the gearbox I have is from another kit ?

Completed this build! Replaced the wheels with trimmed Humvee wheels and installed Rogue Element Components front and rear machined scale hubs. The body is painted with PS-32 Corsa Grey and PS-55 Flat Clear on the outside for that vintage appearance. Additionally, a Bruiser interior was added to complete the overall look. Will be listing this for sale soon. Thanks for looking.

Hi, I narrowed my wheels and hexes to 2mm before and didn't encounter any problems.

Yes, here it is, the day I built it back in 2006.

Thank you for the great tips, I hadn't considered those issues. I was also considering attempting to complete the entire body in one try to avoid bleeds between two different tapes overlapping, but it sounds quite challenging right now. Is it okay to place a large rice paper mask sheet on the body, draw the lines, and then move the rice paper to a cutting pad to cut along those lines? Or would it attract too much dust?

I am planning to try the 1mm paper tape for the tightest radius curve on the nose only and use the 2mm white tape for the rest of the body, following Alvinlwh's suggestion. I've been thinking that it might be very hard to make a super straight line with a 1mm tape. We will see when it arrives. And thanks, I will post photos in the build thread once it's done.

Yes, both front and rear.

Thank you! They seem to fit fine, not much stretched eventhough sand scorcher tires are tiny. Rough Rider wheels are 1.55'' eventhough people say theyre 1.7'' while Sand Scorcher rims are 1.3'' approximately. You can fit Rough Rider rear tires to regular 1.55'' RC wheels. I have done some comparisons in this thread:

Could you post a photo of it? I'm curious to see how they look.

Thank you for the information! I've ordered Tamiya 1mm yellow tape, and it's ready for another try after a layer of blue. I've successfully removed all the bleed paint and sanded the body with several grit papers; the 2000 grit paper made it look like it's fresh out of the injection mold

I am interested in purchasing the bushing parts shown in the image. I acquired this gearbox long time ago but recently noticed that it is missing the circled pieces, causing the small gear to be loose like sleeve of a wizard. The one I have has these small metal bushings that don't seem to serve any purpose. It appears to have been assembled incorrectly.

Using tape as a reinforcement sounds like a great idea!

I tried taping white on yellow in some areas. It didn't slide, but it lifted by itself. Cutting the yellow tape to curve seems like the best method, although it is also the most difficult one without any proper tools.

Yes, it's very thick and feels like plastic. I taped some curves at night, and when I woke up, the radius of the curves had increased, almost as if the body is covered with grease and the tape is sliding. I will test it the way you suggested.

Brake fluid works great; I've used it before. Unfortunately, I no longer have time to redo all the primer and paint, as I am moving to another country. I will explore the possibilities with mesh sticks for now. I used a 2mm white tape for the entire nose and then FJ-40 window masks for the larger curves since they are precut and perfectly round. Unfortunately, the 2mm tape wasn't holding in its place and lifted at the corners; I will try heating it next time, I haven't heard of this method before. For the straight areas, I used a 6mm paper-like tape.

Sanding everything down to white is a great idea. I don't want to completely strip everything, as it would be very expensive and time-consuming. So far, I've used 2.5 cans of white primer, half a can of white, and 1 can of blue. I need to finish and sell this car as soon as possible as I am moving to another country in a few weeks. Thank you for the information; I wasn't aware that distance of the can would make a difference, it's probably the reason half of the body is matte. I'll try using mesh sticks tomorrow to see if they work for me. It's hard to tell from the photos but the whole color line is leaked, it's almost like I masked the body using wool socks. I can't use decal for borders since I'm replicating the actual-size Bel Ray Bullet but it's a great idea. You're right; the 2mm wide tape deformed on the sharp corners, especially on the nose. I also used up the entire can in one go which was a huge mistake.

I've just removed the masking tape, and I don't think this body is worth all this effort anymore. I should have sold it before attempting to paint it.

Thanks guys! I hadn't considered this method before, but I will certainly give it a try. Do you think I should try this after spraying the clear coat ? Will such products still blend two paint tones without clear coat ? That paint looks perfect.

I've recently painted my Rough Rider, but the results weren't great since it's my first paint job. Here's what I did: I started with a white base coat, then I masked off the white areas and painted the rest of the body blue. However, I ended up with a lot of issues. There's an uneven "orange peel" texture, and some areas look too shiny while others are only semi-gloss. I'm considering wet sanding it with 1000-grit paper to smooth things out and than apply glossy clear coat. But I have a few questions: Should I wet sand only the blue areas with the masking tape still on or remove it and sand the entire body? I'm worried about the two different colors mixing and ruining the paint job during wet sanding. After wet sanding, should I apply decals before applying clear coat? I used various Tamiya tapes and window covers for Lexan bodies and they have a paper-like texture. These are my concerns, and I'd appreciate any advice you can offer.

Hello and welcome! I'm voting for the Celica. I restored one myself and am curious about the condition of the fragile suspension parts on your chassis. I couldn't find replacements online that time, so I ended up building all the suspension arms from styrene.The rest of the cars seem to be in good condition and they probably just need cleaning and repainting. Is the Bruiser missing its body ?

@technics Thank you! It's just and old XC Isuzu MU chassis with the shortest wheelbase.

@Pylon80 Do you also get -200 error ? Simply opening my pictures in paint and saving them as jpeg worked for me. I guess it reduces the size.

Today's work; Turned Humvee wheels into Bronco wheels. Next is paint...

I'm not a pilot, and since English is not my native language, I wasn't sure of the correct term. I thought dash referred to the plastic part that covers the instrument panel.