Superluminal

Do you need them to be aluminium and locking or do you just need them as an adaptor for connecting the wheel? Looking at them they look like they would serve the same purpose as the plastic wheel hub plate that comes with the Wildone / FAV. Never seen those those red ones before, they do look nice.

Me too, hate them - I know they give adjustment but they are the worst bit of the build. Standard ones = sore busted thumbs Adjustable ones = never remembering which side has the LH thread, rounding off the tamiya spanner so it useless before its adjusted properly and having to apply so much torque on the now rounded off spanner to turn a thread inside the super tight ball cup that it pops off the ball. So you end adjusting it manually and getting sore busted thumbs. Maybe im missing a key set of skills for building turn buckles but have had similar issues on every build except the avante and egress as this has metal ball joints with a proper screw thread inside.

One that I have definitely not acquired - I cant stand them. I either feel like im on the verge of tightening to destruction or I take the car out and it drives with a what must be a horribly loose noisy diff. I much prefer a geared diff in front and back gearboxes.

That matt effect totally transforms it!! Thats why it looks so real compared to the decals for the grilles and other details normally in the kit as they are slightly glossy. Going to ty some ps-55 i think as I normally screw up the window rubber decals anyway.

So do you have to mask of the whole of the rest of the shell on the outside before applying the ps-55? How does this work with the decals? Actually think i just twigged - mask outside, ps 55 then matt black both on the outside first then spray rest as normal before decals

The impreza looks real! Outstanding work - what type of paint do you use for the matt black finish on the grill surrounds? Is it normal acrylic model paint?

Yes, for sure - im not too bad with some heat shrink and a cigarette lighter.

Thanks all - doesnt look like im going to find pre-wired warm white leds without resistors so will buy some loose ones and solder them up myself. Im not going to let a small plastic blob of magic particles beat me.

I think you need to leave the leads connected as they were and switch the forward / reverse toggle on the transmitter throttle channel so when you switch it on again it auto calibrates that way (the beeping on the esc) I had this on my Absima transmitter.

Even though my insides pucker up and wince at the site of that im glad its getting used

Ok, will look for some without resistors. It seems the most pre-wired ones come with them as the all seem to specify the higher voltages you mention (some upto 18 and 24 volts) There dont seem to be a great many options for warm white leds and I dont like the standard bluey white that normal white rc leds are. I wonder if i have screwed up the ones I cut the resistors off of last night.

My bikes live in a perpetual state of hibernation. Cant remember the last time I went out but im now not very fit a have a small pang of guilt when i see them. I should sell them I suppose but they are probably not worth anything as they are all now about 20 years old or more. I have; 2001 Cannondale Caad 4 in Saeco colours with dura ace 7700 group and old mavic carbon cosmics 2000 Principia TT2 time trial frame with dura ace 7700 group and corima carbon disc and 4 spoke front. 1997 Ribble 653 steel frame with ultegra 6500 group. Unknown age Thorn tange steel touring frame with a random mix of components and down tube shifters 1999 i think Bianchi mercatone uno steel frame with campag chorus group and shamal hp12 wheels 2001 Giant ATX team mtb with xt group and rockshox sid xc forks

True - it did feel like at the time that even the components were designed to ensure the rider was suffering in some way at every opportunity. Being able to keep seated and spin a smaller gear must be much nicer now than having to climb out of the saddle in a massive gear weaving side to side just so you can maintain enough speed to stay upright.

No I havent bought them again, those were the ones I bought originally and have now cut the resistor off (edited my post to clarify ) I have wired the polarity correctly. The resistor wss soldered to the positive. I cut the resistor off them and just extended the positive wire back up to the leg on the led. I didnt touch the negative leg/wire. Maybe I fried them all? There wasnt a very long leg left after cutting the resistor off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-to-6V-Pre-Wired-High-Brightness-3mm-Clear-LED-Various-Colours-Constant/123035920319?var=423469341736&hash=item1ca58327bf:g:VBkAAOSwXkJatMOn These seem to be the only warm white pre-wired leds at 5v to 6v from the uk. The description says that 7v will will fry them. Does the TLU-01 light unit reduce the voltage or output 7.2v straight from the battery?

Whats going on with your weather? Its nearly half way through april!