IoWBasher

How about a G6-01 pr indeed GF-01 ? They're a pleasure to build and run, and plenty of scope for customisation due to sharing parts with a number of other models.

There are 3S Hard Case Lipos with the same dimensions as 2S Hard Case ones. Overlander 4000mah Hard Case Low Profile 3S is one.

Liking that Google Forms method of submission very much, I did both to be sure. Anyhow I only got a chance to do my 1 and only run today and the surface was a little rough for my MF01X Escort MKII. For Round 9 I'll try somewhere a little smoother, and hopefully get a few runs in. Great fun though

Interesting project, I built a Slash based drag car last year but a Tamiya based one is intriguing. I'd be looking at a 2wd off-road car as a donor with a custom stretched chassis and one of the Proline bodies, this will all be easily available in the UK. As for wheels and tyres, Slash beadlocks with Hoosier slicks would be my first choice, other than this there's a few on road choices that would fit said beadlocks.

Thing is there are examples of 4wd classic Minis, as there are Escorts. Saying that I appreciate the RWD Escort and FWD Mini are the originals

Predator actually contains one of my favorite film quotes, I've used it at work once or twice

Super Mini, the ones below are built with no internal spacers to give 55mm length for maximum ground clearance.

Well for the first time ever (for me) in a Tamiya kit there was a mistake with the parts, on step 20 (attaching the lower rear arms) I only had one 46mm screw pin, however there were 3 dogbones. Luckily I've spare screw pins so no drama, and I now have an extra spare dogbone ! Anyone else had this ?

The wheels are blue already, and yes they are M-chassis size.

Hi, just about to send you a PM

Grey CVA Super Minis from a TT-02R kit for mine I think Mini CVA's are too long ?

Mines coming Monday, could have been tomorrow but I'm working. Anyhow it'll be here in time for my Birthday ! ps, all Time Tunnel ones should be being sent today/tomorrow

Not to upset anyone but all I can say is I've never had a problem using machine screws into plastic, other than sub par hardware and then that's the head that rounds out. On the rare occasion I've used grease to help facilitate cutting a new thread in hard plastics, but I never pre tap plastic holes. Works for me Most rc car manufacturers (Losi, Traxxas, Associated to name a few) use machine hex head screws, can they all be wrong ? Furthermore even Tamiya use a machine type thread into plastic for king pins, ball ends etc.

I'll use button head hex screws wherever I can ( apart from king pins etc) I find them so much easier to work with especially with a magnetised bit in a powered screwdriver. Although I never rely on torque settings and do the last bit by hand. Good quality tools and screws are the key, and I generally buy my fixings from Modelfixings.co.uk.

Hi, I try to build shocks with little to no positive pressure, so when you push them in you should only feel the resistance of the oil passing the pistons and they don't return on their own. I've the RocHobby jeep also and replaced the shocks with some from a SCA-1E kit, I'll get round to rebuilding the standard ones somewhen as like you say it's only the "oil" that's the problem. When I first got it I completely stripped and rebuilt it, it has nice quality steel gears etc throughout. Furthermore I measured all the bearings for future rubber shielded replacements. I'll post a list when I've time.