IoWBasher

As well as mentioned above, bicycle GPS speedos are another good option for recording speed runs etc, I use a Lezyne Mini GPS and it's small and light.

Hi, if it's a coaxial aerial with an exposed length of the inner signal wire at the end then it's the length of the exposed signal wire that's important. Just strip the outer screen to give an exposed length of the signal wire between 28.8 to 32mm. I've done so with succes on a damaged aerial on a Spektrum DSMR type receiver.

The kit comes with 4 ball bearings for the gearbox, and 8 plastic ones for the axles. So your 8 bearings will be enough to fully ball-race your Frog. Here's a link to the manual https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58354the_frog.pdf

Hi, I've just PM'd you regarding this.

Hi, I've gone wide with my Konghead using TL-01B parts. You'll need upper and lower arms, dogbones and longer steering links. Also I used the longer bottom shock rod ends. Drives lovely, much less tippy.

Hi, The first one is for sensored and sensorless motors, and not waterproof. The second one is for sensorless motors only and is waterproof. So it depends on the motor you want to run and in what conditions.

And this pinion http://www.rcmart.com/hard-anodized-aluminum-26tt-pinion-gear-tamiya-t301-dancing-rider-p-77799.html?cPath=595_744_2029 BTW, the speed run I did with mine was with a 6000KV motor in it.

This exact scenario was covered in a consumer rights tv program, and the outcome was that the sender/seller is responsible for claiming back from RM and should refund or resend the item to the buyer asap. Furthermore a signature was not deemed as proof of delivery to the actual recipient. Not a nice situation to be in, I've been on the other side where a tracked parcel (not signed for) was "delivered" according to an email from RM, the shop said it wasn't their responsibility, which it was, in the end Paypal refunded me. Hope it works out for you.

This could be me, just I was between 15 & 31. Then I bought a Monster Beetle from a colleague and have been tinkering ever since. Aside from disposable income age has also brought better engineering skills and patience. Tamiya's appeal for me is part nostalgia and closure, i.e obtaining and doing justice to models I couldn't as a youth, by it's nature this has got to be a dwindling market. However justifying the cost for models that need basic upgrades (bearings & CVA shocks) is getting harder. Saying that I still need closure on a few models

CC-01 is now on Ebay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123639330408

Hi all,I'm having a clear-out over the next couple of months to leave myself with just a few models. Starting with my Tamiya's. All of them have been upgraded in some form, bearings, shocks etc.Probably best if I just list what's for sale and we can go from there regarding specs etc.M-06 Midnight Pumpkin LowriderGF-01 Suzuki Jimny SJ30 with or without wide conversionG6-01 Konghead with or without wide conversionT3-01 Dancing RiderI'll post pics over the next week, or PM me if your interested in any of the above.

Thanks the wide conversion is a must do in my opinion, I've done my Konghead also, much less tippy. If your interested I'm sure we can work something out with a conversion kit for your dump truck, PM me if so Furthermore if anyone is interested in anything from this car get in touch.

I'm having a New Year clear out, first up is my Tamiya Suzuki Jimny Wide GF-01, widened using new TL-01B arms and full metal driveshafts. Built with new parts, see through chassis, fully ballraced, CVA shocks, Only run for the videos linked below. Will sell as bare roller without wheels/tyres for £80 posted or to an agreed spec up to RTR with basic 2.4ghz radio gear, brushed or brushless. No battery though.

Good points about the source voltage, sometimes I use a seperate battery for a LED set up.

No worries, my pleasure. Did an order myself, I'm going to try out the Flat LED's. They supposedly have a wider spread of light.