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IoWBasher

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Everything posted by IoWBasher

  1. Hi, a drop of superglue will help but a mechanical solution would be better such as below.
  2. Just to say, I've got a couple of FTX Hooligans which is basically the Vantage with a rally shell. In my experience there's no problem running high powered brushless motors and the motor moving, where there is a problem is that the spur gear/pinion is not fully enclosed, so gravel, small stones can and do destroy the spur gear. However there is a cover that almost encloses the spur and pinion, and it's fairly simple to add tape/plasticard to fully enclose it. Not stripped a spur since doing this. Also the Carnage, Bugsta are basically a wide Vantage, and the Outlaw has the same front end as them, so spares are plentiful and cheap. Furthermore the Quanam Vandal on Hobbyking is the same as a Vantage and even cheaper. Very good value for money IMHO.
  3. I'd say at the start of the straight going upwards, as in just past the bottom right hand marker
  4. How about a G6-01 pr indeed GF-01 ? They're a pleasure to build and run, and plenty of scope for customisation due to sharing parts with a number of other models.
  5. There are 3S Hard Case Lipos with the same dimensions as 2S Hard Case ones. Overlander 4000mah Hard Case Low Profile 3S is one.
  6. Liking that Google Forms method of submission very much, I did both to be sure. Anyhow I only got a chance to do my 1 and only run today and the surface was a little rough for my MF01X Escort MKII. For Round 9 I'll try somewhere a little smoother, and hopefully get a few runs in. Great fun though
  7. Interesting project, I built a Slash based drag car last year but a Tamiya based one is intriguing. I'd be looking at a 2wd off-road car as a donor with a custom stretched chassis and one of the Proline bodies, this will all be easily available in the UK. As for wheels and tyres, Slash beadlocks with Hoosier slicks would be my first choice, other than this there's a few on road choices that would fit said beadlocks.
  8. Thing is there are examples of 4wd classic Minis, as there are Escorts. Saying that I appreciate the RWD Escort and FWD Mini are the originals
  9. Predator actually contains one of my favorite film quotes, I've used it at work once or twice
  10. Super Mini, the ones below are built with no internal spacers to give 55mm length for maximum ground clearance.
  11. Well for the first time ever (for me) in a Tamiya kit there was a mistake with the parts, on step 20 (attaching the lower rear arms) I only had one 46mm screw pin, however there were 3 dogbones. Luckily I've spare screw pins so no drama, and I now have an extra spare dogbone ! Anyone else had this ?
  12. The wheels are blue already, and yes they are M-chassis size.
  13. Grey CVA Super Minis from a TT-02R kit for mine I think Mini CVA's are too long ?
  14. Mines coming Monday, could have been tomorrow but I'm working. Anyhow it'll be here in time for my Birthday ! ps, all Time Tunnel ones should be being sent today/tomorrow
  15. Not to upset anyone but all I can say is I've never had a problem using machine screws into plastic, other than sub par hardware and then that's the head that rounds out. On the rare occasion I've used grease to help facilitate cutting a new thread in hard plastics, but I never pre tap plastic holes. Works for me Most rc car manufacturers (Losi, Traxxas, Associated to name a few) use machine hex head screws, can they all be wrong ? Furthermore even Tamiya use a machine type thread into plastic for king pins, ball ends etc.
  16. I'll use button head hex screws wherever I can ( apart from king pins etc) I find them so much easier to work with especially with a magnetised bit in a powered screwdriver. Although I never rely on torque settings and do the last bit by hand. Good quality tools and screws are the key, and I generally buy my fixings from Modelfixings.co.uk.
  17. Hi, I try to build shocks with little to no positive pressure, so when you push them in you should only feel the resistance of the oil passing the pistons and they don't return on their own. I've the RocHobby jeep also and replaced the shocks with some from a SCA-1E kit, I'll get round to rebuilding the standard ones somewhen as like you say it's only the "oil" that's the problem. When I first got it I completely stripped and rebuilt it, it has nice quality steel gears etc throughout. Furthermore I measured all the bearings for future rubber shielded replacements. I'll post a list when I've time.
  18. It did me also, but when I saw the Embie Racing chassis conversion I had to give it a go. Absolutely love it.
  19. I'd also recommend Wheelspin, I placed an order yesterday and shortly after got an email saying one of the items wasn't in stock, so I rang them and changed the out of stock item, it was a couple of quid more but they waived it. I've always had good customer service from them. Furthermore the postage to the Isle of Wight is reasonable, with no extra charges for kits or high value orders, same for Time Tunnel, and MB Models, unfortunately that is not the case for Modelsport. Saying that I'll use Modelsport for some items, but only for kits etc if I can't get what I want elsewhere, also always had good customer service from them.
  20. Same here, they also say that they have enough to cover the pre-orders. Fingers crossed.
  21. The FTX Outback 2 is a very good trail rig for the money, my only issue with it is the combined esc/rx. A couple of blokes in the group I go trailing with have them and they run well, not up to TRX-4 standards but not far off, and in some instances the short wheelbase helps. However for £199 I'd suggest the Outback Fury, I've no personal experience but it looks well specced.
  22. Here's one that's not often mentioned I use them to install and remove hard to reach M3 nuts, makes removing axles on crawlers much easier. Locking Foreceps
  23. FYI, all of the TRX's have portals. I've built and own both the Sport and Premium kits, the Sport has a single speed transmission and locked diffs, but no electrics, the Premium has the two speed gearbox and remote locking diffs and all the electrics (except battery) but no body. Both have a 313mm wheelbase. For speed biased use I'd recommend the premium kit. Recently I tried a Hobbywing SCT 4000KV combo in mine and it was a blast, both usable for trailing and moderate crawling in low gear and as fast as I'd want in 2nd gear.
  24. They'll do nicely, PM me your Paypal details and price please. I'm ok for other parts. Cheers.
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