IoWBasher

Max current generally refers to what the motor can safely handle for more than just a short burst Given a number of variables (weight, gearing, drag ect) the motor will draw more or fewer amps. It's easier when manufacturers give a recommended maximum motor KV rating, for example the Hobbywing 10BL60 ESC has a 60/360A rating and the recommended max KV is 6000KV for on road and 4000KV for off road. So it might well be ok on firm ground, but I'd avoid long grass or muddy conditions ps, hard acceleration is where the greater current draw is.

Yep I read in one of your posts about the stock tyres being the limiting factor, my first runs will be with them so indeed it will be an interesting comparison Funny you say about the CC01, as I'm in the process of building a CC01 Bug from a Lowrider Pajero kit. Furthermore I've now got a 3S capable esc for my T3-01, at least I've got the fastest trike Also I'd like to thank Jason1145 for his work on constantly updating this thread.

@Andyrt200 I'll be rebuilding my Konghead this weekend for some speed runs, after all at the moment the worst I can be is second in the 6x6 category !

Thank you, I've found a new obsession

Here's my first speed run entry, a Dancing Rider T3-01 so presumably it'll go in the rear wheel drive category. Top speed of 30Mph/48.28Kph (not very clear on the video) Running a 6000Kv Team Orion brushless motor, unbranded 25A esc, 2s Li-ion 7.4V battery (made from Makita drill cells).Standard gearing and tyres. It was somewhat unstable with the phone strapped to the back, so there's more to come I think.

Possibly/hopefully just needs re-binding.

This is a good backpack but might be a bit big for you, however I do use one to carry cars in it ranging from a 1/10 Mini Cooper to a 1/10 Short Course Truck. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-vehicle-hauler-backpack.html

Another Konghead (or King Yellow) recommendation.

For the body I found a Kamtec Bug body that I'd drastically trimmed the rear end for a Beach Bug project a few years ago, and some searching found this image. Here's where I'm up to, I've still to build up the rear end and finish it, but it's ready for a play today. Hopefully I'll get some video today.

I've "borrowed" parts from my Konghead as I'm planning a wide conversion for it anyhow, it's running a Hobbyking 10BL60 esc and 2950KV 4 pole motor, fed by a 2S Lipo.

After very much enjoying my Konghead I decided that I "needed" a GF-01 in my life. So I bought the 47356 Clear Grey Chassis as I was intrigued to see the gears spinning, and whilst I had/have some misgivings on it's brittleness it doesn't seem too bad. Time will tell as this will be used as a stunt vehicle ! Anyhow here's a short video of the gears spinning.

I did wonder about this, looks like I will be breaking it soon then (see below) If I can't patch it up a standard chassis it will be Personally I want endos, front flips and wheelies, to me that's the point of these short wheelbase models.

Cool, maybe we can meet up for a play some time The ones I'll be using are the Tamiya Mini CVA Dampers 53619. When built without any internal spacers and with the short rod end they measure about 65mm eye to eye fully extended and 45mm compressed. The clear chassis has arrived, build thread to follow over the weekend.

It does indeed, I moved here in 2003 and there's some great spots to play at, beaches included.

It would be best to remove the diff also, as without the output cups (which would fall out without the dog-bones) the diff is "floating" and could lock up/damage the other gears I decided on a GF-01 over a WR-02 as it's 4wd and will complement my Konghead nicely. I'm waiting for the clear grey chassis to build one up, should be cool to see all them gears spinning.

As per Juls1 in the above post, I use CA glue as thread-lock or to repair stripped threads in plastic. However not on initial assembly when the glue can inhibit the screw cutting it's thread. To repair stripped threads I grind down some sprues to dust, pack the hole with the dust and drip in thin CA glue until the dust is saturated, then drill the hole to 2.5mm (for 3mm screws) and re tap the hole with a screw this gives a strong thread that's good for regular maintenance. Regarding lubrication, I only use grease on internal gears that won't be subjected to the sand and dust at the places I run.

Doh, you might be ok if you turn down the throttle epa, I never tried and just replaced the electronics with the standard stuff that came with a RTR brushed FTX Outlaw.

Hi, If you retain the combined Rx/Esc don't try a hotter motor, I tried a MM-28 motor and it would overload it causing full speed runaways.

How's about the battery tray from an FTX Outlaw, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406586

My pleasure

Just checking the ones I have, and they differ from your picture. In that they have a shorter tube and longer ball end bit, they do measure 20mm though. Let me know.

Hi Derek, I've a couple I can post you tomorrow, just PM me your address

When I was a young man (30ish years ago) my friend had a 2CV and we had a blast in it, try as we might we couldn't roll it, although it felt it would at normal driving speeds. We also used to share control at times with him doing the pedals and me the gears and steering Another friend had a Morris Minor that I learnt how to drift in, with it's skinny tyres and damp roads drifting around roundabouts at 20Mph was much fun. I've got the wooden 2CV I posted earlier in the thread and I'm planning on building a Woody 2CV on an M03 chassis.

I'll be getting one, in the meantime I've ordered this, 34 x 13 x 14cm high