Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

363 Excellent

About 87lc2

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I wouldnt bother with this stuff. I bought it over the summer to try and clean up the plastics on an old ATV and it was disappointing to say the least. You'll be better off using a true compound/polish, especially if working on a painted surface. It does do well with clear plastics, but still no better than a true compound. I would recommend Meguiars 105/205 combo, will outperform Novus every single time an ony plastic or painted surface.
  2. Should work well in a Juggernaut. They also make a 25kg version that is only $24: https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-Crawler-Control/dp/B07GK1G5FV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=annimos+servo&qid=1572959750&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExODhJMjJJUkVINkE2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTc2MjMxMjNVVzgwRVhBM1pGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTkzMTgxMkIySU9SVlRVWkI4TSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
  3. I have been using these 20kg servos in all of my crawlers (including my CR01) for the past 2 years or so and have never had one fail, not even when being submerged in water - https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=20kg+servo&qid=1572909008&sr=8-4 They are standard 25t and come with an aluminum horn if you need it. They do make a 25kg version that I use on truck siwth Clod-sized tires, but your CR-01 most likely doesn't need that.
  4. What Blissard said is absolutely correct, just raise up the transmission a bit and you'll get a lot more travel. Still nothing like a modern 4-link crawler, but it's nice to have that little bit of extra room.
  5. For all of my older Tamiyas I just use the mini 2-3S lipos. They fit in everything and with up to 3000mah have plenty of run time. I'd rather not permanently modify original battery boxes for full size Lipos when there's a very easy & cheap solution. As far as some being annoying to access no matter what size battery you're using I totally agree with that. I actually dont mind the bottom loaders so you can leave the body completely in tact when removing/replacing.
  6. Have never used an RC to plow snow, but I think the Clod would be much more entertaining. Lock the axles and do donuts in between plow stripes. The only thing snow is good for is some Clodbuster bashing.
  7. That's awesome to see, thanks for posting. I'm sure she'll have a blast with it. I love that she's interested in assembling it, very cool.
  8. Cool thread, brings back memories. My dad has a few RCs when I was a kid, Grasshopper, Blackfoot, RC10, Clodbuster, and a King Tiger. He let me use the Grasshopper but I wasn't allowed to drive the others (he knew I would destroy them - smart guy). When it was finally time to get my own I really wanted a Clod or at least a Blackfoot, but he bought me an RC10 so I could race locally. As soon as I started building it I was hooked, loved every minute of it. I raced the car for a few years and beat it up pretty good. Still have it to this day, wouldnt trade it for anything.
  9. Either of those should work. I use this quite often, easy to work with and seems to hold up well - https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK
  10. Just had to replicate my 1:1 Buick Grand National as well. This one is a Vaterra V100S running a Castle brushless system. The headlight lenses are from a Clodbuster, worked out well.
  11. Mustang modeled after one I owned years ago. Chassis is a TT02R running a 4600kv brushless system. Don't run on road nearly as much as I like, but I love looking at them.
  12. The RC4WD motors will work in Clods, no problem. I run their 45-55t motors in my Clod crawlers. I run the 15t Firebolts in one truck, they are zero timing I believe. They are also very underwhelming on 2S, decent speed but a noticeable loss in torque. They run very well on 3S, you just need an ESC to support the voltage (I run a Super Duty XR). The Hobbywing 860 is a great ESC, but will not handle Firebolts on 3S. You'll be fine on 2S, but it will not be fast. Just noticed you don't want to run lipos. The easiest way to make a Clod move is more voltage, and lipos are the best way to do it in my opinion. Just get an ammo can and store them in there. That's what I do and never had an issue. One of my favorite Clods runs the stock silver cans on 3 or 4s lipo and it goes pretty good. Motors are cheap, plenty of speed & torque. THe silver cans seems to handle the higher voltage better than Firebolts and other modifed motors.
  13. Both of those colors look great with the original decals, nice work. After some work the transmission does shift perfectly every time, drivetrain is really smooth as well. We'll see how it holds up, but to be honest I probably won't use it too much. I do a lot of trail running and rock crawling and there are just so many vehicles that are better for that than the old Bruiser. I'll definitley take it on a mild trail run, but even being a clone I wont abuse it. I'm sure I could find the weak points fairly quickly if I treated it like any other modern trail truck.
  14. Thank you, I apprecaite it. I used Krylon Fusion Dark Metallic Copper and Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel clear coat. Both out of spray cans. The bed liner was done with Rustoleum truck bed liner.
  15. Bringing this thread back from the dead...I finally found some time to put my HG P407 KIT together. I got this on a business trip to China last year, price was too good to pass up. For what it is it's a pretty nice little truck. Got the kit version so I could make sure everything was assembled correctly. Took apart the gearbox to oil everything and it's nice and smooth, shifts great as well. The shocks are junk as are the leaf springs/leaf spring mounts. I ended up buying new Tamiya springs and mounts, much better than the crappy clone parts. Only deviations from stock are front wheel spacers to get the track width even between the front/rear (looks much better this way) and relocated the steering servo to the front of the frame, that made a world of difference in the steering. I also used an aluminum horn on the shift servo, once I dialed it in on my radio it was perfect, shifts between all three gears nicely. Using the motor that came with is and a Hobbywing 1080 ESC. Painted the body in a period correct metallic bronze, I really like how the color came out. Added full LEDs as well. Also went with the Mountain Rider look using a rear window and Tamiya roll bar. Being that it's a clone I wont feel bad running it, so we'll see how she does. After building it it really made me want a new Mountain Rider kit, but for the price I could build 2-3 other trucks that I would get more use out of. If they ever get under $500USD I'll pick one up and build it box stock for the shelf.
  • Create New...