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  1. Monster truck is such a loose term in general, but to me the only Tamiya trucks I consider actual Monster Trucks are the Clod, Juggernaut, TXT-1, and Agrios. I love all of the others mentioned, but how can a 2wd be considered a monster truck? Funny you mention th Bruiser, it's actually closer to a monster truck than the Blackfoot but if I had to choose I would call the BF a monster before the Bruiser In the end I guess it's all just subjective, pretty much anything with oversized tires can be called a monster truck, but it really means different thing to different people depending on how you were exposed I guess. To me it has to be 4wd, have solid axles, and have huge tires. Now that I think about it, I guess the Bruiser is a monster truck. It does have tires similar to the 48" agricultural tires that the first monsters had...I'm pretty much just going in circles at this point, a great question that will probably get 20 different answers.
  2. I like the El Camino body! Also like the Ford body, that's the 13" wheelbase 1984 correct? I have one of those waiting around for a project that I may never get to at this point, but it's a nice looking body. I've never owned an EMaxx, but it looks like an awesome machine. The closest thing I have is a Mad Force VE which I absolutely love. Like you, I don't get to run it much for a few reasons (most of which you mentioned), but whenever I do it puts a huge smile on my face. Nothing like 14.8 volts running through a 1/8th scale brushless system mounted to a solid axle truck, quite a handlful at times. I'll be the Maxx handles waaay better than the Mad Force, maybe one day I'll get a big boy Traxxas basher. Like you I'm not a huge Traxxas "fan", but I do have a few of them and they are high quality/easy to work on rigs. Looking forward to your progress on this one.
  3. What motor are you running in this, I don't think I saw it mentioned earlier in the thread. Body mounting can be tricky on these with anything other than the stock Digger style body. I have 3D files for custom mounts that use the upper axle-mounted shock holes and they work great. Do you have a printer? Happy to send the files if you do. If not, you can just cut the original rear mount and move it to the rear shock mounting position, I've done that on a few SMT10s and it worked well. To relocate the front you'll probably need a custom mount. Let me know if you can print, happy to send the files over. As far as balancing the tires, I don't have a good way. I usually just massage them until they are as round as possible but rarely get them perfectly round, maybe someone will have a better idea.
  4. Looks great so far, I like the stance. Surprised those shock mount screws are sagging like that, I have seen that done many times and nobody has mentioned it...When I want a lower stance on the SMT I usually just run a shorter shock in the stock mounting position, seems to work well. I think the stock shocks are a bit long when lowering the truck that much. What type of body are you rinning again, the Raptor? If so you'll need to move the rear body mount back on the chassis anyway, so you can just use the same method for the front on the rear and that should take care of the sag.
  5. These are beautiful models, but in my humble opinion no TA01/02 chassis vehicle is worth anywhere near that much...I do love the body though, as others have said wish I bought one when I saw them going cheap.
  6. This looks pretty cool, excited to see how it comes out. Agreed on th FB thing, I have missed out on quite a few nice chassis, parts, etc. for solid axle monsters because I don't have a FB. It's not hard (or expensive) to have a website nowadays, I also think that guys like this are missing out (RH Designs comes to mind).
  7. Thank you! The cage was not structural at all so it won't be an issue. The aluminum side plates are what really make up the chassis, the cage was just for looks. Unlike the SMT10 where the cage is the actual chassis. Yes, I used the included body mounts that came with the truck. They simply bolt to existing holes in the aluminum chassis. It was nice that they made those holes and included the mounts, I guess they figured some people would want to run normal pickup bodies on them. One bonus with losing the cage is the weight, it's pretty heavy and removing it does lower the center of gravity a bit.
  8. Tower definitely used to be better, but agreed that they are still the best place to buy Tamiya kits in the US due to their discount codes as a premium member. Just picked up a couple Blackfoot 2016 kits today (one for my father, he loves his original but it's falling apart...) and with the premium member discount they came out to around $140 each, good enough deal for me and better than I could find anywhere else. Excited to finally have a Blackfoot. That Sand Scorcher was tempting, might have to get one of those at some point too. Looks like a fun build.
  9. Yes, the blue chassis is nice and light, that should work well. You dont need dual brushless, just run one and block off the other motor opening. Running dual 25t motors on 2s is going to be slow, but if that's what the class specs not much you can do. I never saw a need for a slipper on the TXT as the transmission can handle the power just fine, not sure how much benefit you'd see there. I usually lock the slipper tight on most vehicles anyway (SMT10, etc.)
  10. There is more going on in the gearbox than just the pinion driving the spur and the spur turning the wheels. The pinion turns the spur (or counter gear) and the spur gear drives the differential spur gear which turns the output shafts. Diff gears are irrelevant when it comes to final ratios, but there is further reduction between the spur (counter) gear and diff spur which contributes to the final drive. It really doesnt matter much in the case of the simple transmissions, these things matter more in more complex models where more changes can be made. In this case you can really only change the pinion anyway, so bigger = faster, smaller = slower. As for that ESC, I haven't personally used one but have seen a few people have issues with them on the forum recently. Maybe check out the electronics section or post in there. I do know that ESC is Lipo capable, but not sure if it has a programmable cutoff that would be interfering...
  11. Don't own a Lunchbox and my Hornet is still in the box (hope to build it soon, it's a re-release), but on the motors I agree than Tamiya brushed motors are great quality. I really like the Sport & Torque Tuned motors and use silver cans in all of my crawlers, they seem to last a lot longer when exposed to water/mud than other cheap motors do. They also have great run time as you said. With the ESC, there are really only two things that will cause it to cut out > 1) Lipo cutoff OR 2) Thermal Cutoff Not sure if your ESC has Lipo mode but make sure it's not set to Lipo if not using them. As for thermal cutoff, if it's a stock Tamiya TEU-104BK you might be hitting the thermal cutoff with the 20t motor. Is the motor/ESC hot when it cuts out? I had that issue on a Clod a looong time ago with the dual motor TEU-106BK, it would cut out all the time when I went to lower turn motors.
  12. Lipo (Lithium Polymer) batteries are the best you can get for RC. Great power and consistent power delivery, but they do take more attention to care for than NiMh batteries. If you are just looking to run the Bruiser and not get more RCs then NiMh will be just fine. If you are looking to expand in the future I would look into Lipo. Plenty of info out there if you want to look into them. Here are what modern Lipos look like - https://www.amazon.com/Zeee-Batteries-Dean-Style-Connector-Vehicles/dp/B076Z778MJ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=2s+lipo+rc&qid=1613788908&sr=8-8 I went to all Lipo years ago and will never look back, they are superior in every way. A charger will be more expensive and you will need to properly store the Lipos as they are a bit more volatile than older NiMh style batteries (I store mine in an ammo can).
  13. Yes, a smaller pinion equals more torque & less speed. Conversely, a larger pinion equals more speed & less torque. Final drive also plays a role between different models. You can have the same pinion/spur setup on two vehicles and speed will be different depending on final drive from the transmission/gearbox. If you're looking for more speed, go up in pinion size but keep an eye on motor temps. As long as the motor doesn't get hot a larger pinion is just fine. 550 size motors are much more forgiving with gearing and have more torque than their 540 counterparts. With that said, if you go up in can size go down in turns, with equal turn counts the 550 will be slower.
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