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About 87lc2

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  1. No tax to the US. Just had another package arrive from them yesterday. I've spent a lot there over the past couple of months, really worth it if you order a few hundred $ at a time. Smaller orders not so much, shipping is a killer.
  2. Big 6 is awesome! I need to buy (or make) a 6x6 truck some day, its been on my list for quite a while. My dad brings out his 8x8 Cross trucks quite often and its amazing what those things can do even with stock tires.
  3. I took it apart and nothing seems out of place, no foreign material in there. I was really hoping there was, but no such luck. Even with a bad sensor board I can't see that making it hard to turn when there's no power to it. I figured there had to be something wrong mechanically but there's not much to these things and it looked just fine on the inside.
  4. It's actually better without the sensor cable plugged in...weird. I put the motor on my other HW brushless ESC and same thing. Tried a Reedy motor on this ESC and it was perfect. For now I just ordered another Reedy motor since I'm trying to get it going for this weekend, but hopefully I can get a replacement motor from HW at some point. Also - Does anyone run these on CRC Black Carpet? If so what tires would you recommend? I plan on running asphalt most of the time, but there's a local race on carpet this weekend and may bring the car out, just not sure if my Exotek tires will be good on carpet. They feel like they'll have way too much grip.
  5. HW got back and wants me to send it to them for analysis - I think I'll try Amain first. I'm sure they'll take it back with no issue. I have done what you said already and the motor is extremely tight. Spinning the shaft by hand (with or without pinion) It will maybe spins one or two clicks but that's it. When I first got the motor I thought, "Wow, that's tight!" thinking it was a good thing that the magnets were so strong. I'm not too familiar with competition brushless motors yet so thought it was normal. I have also been running it outside of the car and at 1/4 throttle or less the shaft just hesitates and will not spin - also makes a cogging sort of noise. Once I give it a bit more throttle it will turn. Interestingly enough it will respond to light throttle sooner without the sensor wire plugged in and with less timing, but still cogs badly at very slight throttle when out of the car.
  6. Not what I like to hear, haha. I got it through Amain so contacted them this morning, guess I'll just setup a return. It was bothering me so messed around a bit this morning to make sure I didnt screw something up. Swapped sensor wires, swapped ESCs, and even ran this motor on another ESC and this motor is the only issue. It actually runs better without the sensor wire plugged in so I assume the board is bad. Took it apart and nothing obviously wrong, bearings good and there's not much else that can go wrong in there.
  7. Yea, I guess we'll see how good the HW warranty is, I've heard they can be a pain unfortunately. I did a bit more testing just to be sure this morning - swapped sensor wires, tired the motor on another ESC, and even tried another motor with the ESC in the car and everything worked perfectly except for this motor. It's actually worse with the sensor wire installed so I guess its a bad sensor board? I have never had a brushless motor apart but took this one apart and there's nothing out of place in there. Not much to these things actually, figure it has to be bad internal electronics.
  8. Yea that's what I'm thinking. Thank you for the reply. Now to see about getting a replacement...
  9. Have a brand new HW V10 G3R 25.5t motor for my F104 and having issues with it. The motor is very hard to turn when out of the car, and with anything under 1/4 throttle applied the motor just clicks/buzzes and will not move. With more throttle it moves, but its definitely not smooth. I verified everything is connected properly (A/B/C wires & sensor cable), so don't think there's an issue there. Leaning towards a bad motor, but have never had any issues with HW brushless stuff in the past. Any input appreciated. Pretty bummed, have the car all done and was hoping to get it on the track this weekend.
  10. OK guys, got the new diff shaft and the car is together. Mounting electronics in these is fun Anyway, having an issue that is not car related, its motor related. Using a 25.5 Hobbywing V10 G3R - https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xerun-v10-g3r-competition-stock-spec-brushless-motor-25.5t-hwa30401133/p1148600?gclid=Cj0KCQjwx5qoBhDyARIsAPbMagDy56ld0KhV5EYmwypnefpuxq4jivbnbT-UBbsWe8Iu90cdAyqTwC0aAlkbEALw_wcB When taking it out of the box I noticed the motor was very tight, but didn't think too much of it. Once I had it installed and went to give the car throttle it made some horrible clicking noises and then would go fine. Figuring I must have screwed something up with the diff I pulled the motor out and ran it with no load. Sure enough under light throttle the motor just clicks and will move after 1/4 throttle or so. I've never had this issue with any motor, sensored or non-sensored so wondering what's going on here. Double checked all connections and everything is correct, no issues there. Possible I got a bad motor? As I said it is very tight to turn by hand, much tighter than any other motor I've ever installed. One note - It comes set at 42 degrees timing, backed it down to the minimum (30) and it was a bit better, but not perfect. Since there are no parts making contact in a brushless motor (other than bearings), what could be causing this thing to hang up? I'll post in the electrics section as well, but figured I'd ask here as you guys have helped a lot to this point.
  11. They might be...I'll have to check my stash I know the race kit wheels (R/SRX, etc) are 0 ET for sure, maybe the kit wheels are +2. @bavee - The Audi Touring is a great one, I love mine. Comes with 2-piece wheels in the kit as well, that's a bonus.
  12. For some reason the Supra kit is a lot more than the other TT02 kits. It cant be Toyota licensing because I just picked up a Celica kit for next to nothing, by far the cheapest TT02. If you already have the body just buy one of the cheaper kits with a body you like and wheels you like. The Porsche 992 is cheap, as is the new Mercedes CLK GTR and both of those bodies are really nice. Also the Mercedes GT3, just painted one of those and the body is fantastic.
  13. Understood. I don't really need another Jugg but I might be interested if you haven't already sold it.
  14. I'd go with the +2 on a stock TT02, will look much better than the 0 ET. Hard to say what the kit comes with stock, but most likely 0.
  15. Sorry to hear, anything with the truck lead to that decision or just lost interest altogether? Hope you get what you need out of it.
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