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87lc2

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  1. Just took a look on Tower, wow, had no idea that nearly every Tamiya kit was on Backorder. I would have suggested a Blackfoot, I think it's the perfect first car for a 12 year old. Good luck with whatever you choose, I built my first RC when I was 12 and I still have very fond memories of doing it bit by bit over a week's time on the dining room table. It was an Associated RC10 and I was so proud of it because I built it myself. Can't wait until my daughter is old enough to build her first.
  2. The Buick 3.8 is one of the best engines ever built, have owned quite a few and absolutely love them. If you can break a 3.8 then you really don't know how to take care of your things. My current daily driver is a 2004 Impala SS with the Supercharged 3.8 and it has 249,000 miles on it. Drive it 80 miles round trip per day for work and it runs/drive beautifully. My father bought it brand new and when he was ready to let it go I just had to take it. Before that I drove a 99 Regal with the Supercharged 3.8 and I scrapped that car at 240k due to rust, the engine is still sitting in my garage in case I ever need it.
  3. Poor little Mazda...I think some people have mechanical sympathy and some don't. Most that don't either don't fix their own stuff, don't understand how it works, or just have enough money that it doesn't matter.
  4. Sorry, I dont but I can try to get something over the next week or so. Typically never have videos of anything running, too difficult to hold the phone & drive. The Bigfoot has brushless power, aluminum axles with open diffs, and full metal transmission. I'll try to get that out by next weekend and see if I can get some video.
  5. On my Clods I actually replace parts quite often, mostly axle tubes and knuckles. Always keep plenty of those parts trees around. The RCs I use most often are my crawlers, most running brushed motors in the 27-35t range. I run them often and through mud, water, etc.; lots of miles on these every season. I rarely have to replace any parts with the exception of a new bearing set every now and then due to the water/mud. Other than that everything else holds up great.
  6. Not sure how I missed that before...I love it! Greart looking 2.2 monster, JConcepts 89 body looks perfect on there.
  7. When I heard a month or so ago that a big name company was getting into the solid axle game, I would have bet it was Traxxas...I was wrong. Before the TRX4 I wouldnt have even wanted them to try, but if the TRX4 & UDR are any indicication of what they can do in the scale world, I think a monster truck from them would be awesome. Just realized the most exciting thing about the LMT - I will now have proper 17mm hex monster truck tires to put on my Mad Force! I love the MF, but the goofy 3.8 wheels/tires are a real turn-off to me. I did 3D print some Clod wheel adapters a while back, but being a 2.6 wheel I had to space it out too far to clear the steering and it looked goofy. For some reason I cant stand monster trucks where the tires stick way outside of the body, I liked them to be tucked in just a little bit like the real thing. That's one thing I don't like about most solid axle race truck builds, everyone uses such wide offset wheel adapters that they just dont look right.
  8. If I remember correctly, the mold for Clod Buster tires went bad sometime in the early-mid 2000s, maybe around the time of the metallic edition??? Can't remember all the details but the Clod was out of production for a year or two due to this. Obviously this was worth Tamiya making a new tool and they did. I personally prefer the old tooling, for some reason they need to use a ton of mold release to get these to release and it's a pain to clean off. Just bought another new set a month or so ago and had to saok them in Simple Green for a day then scrub to get it all off.
  9. I work in the automotive aftermarket and we build quite a few molds annually. I think the biggest thing with RC kits is that there are so many molds required to make one kit. All it takes is an issue with one tool to stop the whole thing. Of course, molds can be repaired or rebuilt but if the kit was not a hot seller then all it would take is one major issue with one tool to kill that model. All tools require care and maintenance, but even that is not enough to prevent catastrophic failure at times. Back to your question - If all required molds are still around then it really wouldn't be that big of a deal to get them going again. Typically they just require a good once over and polish and can be put back into service. We have molds that are only used every 5-7 years and they don't require much more than a cavity polish to be put back into service. The challenge with RC models would be keeping all of the necessary molds needed. I would think Tamiya is as well organized as any molding facility, but that's a lot of molds to hold on to. Machine time is definitley another thing to consider. All injection facilities operate on a production schedule, and fitting in all of the molds required to re-produce a kit would be a pretty big ivenstment of valuable machine run time. Other than slow sales, I think tool failure (that's not financially feasible to fix) is probably the #1 reason that RC models go out of production and never come back. I have often wondered if a lot of the Tamiya re-releases were originally discontinued due to tool failure and then at some point they thought it was worth rebuilding or repairing whichever tool had an issue and boom, it's back in production. This is just my opinion based on my experience. Obiously what I do is a bit different than RC in that our products are mostly self-contained (2-3 molds per product max, most of the time just one multi-cavity mold), but I think it applies is some sense.
  10. I bought a few different thicknesses a while back and honestly don't remember what I'm currently using on my TXTs, if I remember next time I'm out in the shop I'll put a caliper on them. As you said, I ended up trying a few and settling on the size that worked best for me at the time. Changed them a few times when I first started to get the right feel. On the TXT I just have them clamped (zip ties will work as well) to the lower links. I was mainly trying to reduce the torque twist off the line so they may be thicker than needed for handling, but at the time a straight launch was more important to me. Now that I think about it, pretty sure I ended up using a thicker wire on the rear than the front to get the rear planted on take off.
  11. As Dakrat said, you can most certainly shorten the wheelbase using links or arms from a few vendors (RH Designs on Ebay or Crawford Performance on their website). They make down to 12" I believe. I was not a fan of the stock wheelbase either, but with a proper body and Clod sized tires the 13.9" wheelbase can look really good and it also performs well. I would highly recommend picking up a Builder's Kit. It's a nice build and can't beat it for the money. Just throw a brushed motor/ESC in it and enjoy. They hold up very well when not pushed too hard. Clod tires change things, but if you keep the power mild even that is OK.
  12. Same here, mine have held up pretty well when treated right. I was referring more to the people that throw in 4600-5700 kv systems on 3S and go crazy. If you race an SMT10 in Pro Mod and want to be competitive you will break stock parts since you'll have to either gear up or volt up. In Sport Mod SMT10s are great and can be run out of the box with hardly any issues.
  13. I've never felt the desire or need for sway bars on a Clod based truck using the stock ladder bar suspension. Be interested if you notice any diffrence after fitting them. I've been using piano wire to make sway bars on my TXT-1 & TXT-2 trucks for a while, works pretty well. Just interested if you'll see a difference on a Clod.
  14. I just finished putting together another SMT10 Builder's Kit and while its not the best performing truck I find the build fun and they just look so correct. If they would just get rid of the AR60s already...hate those things. I think there is definitely room for Axial to imrpove the SMT10 (axles/transmission), but I doubt it would ever directly compete with the LMT but that's OK. It's a 1/10 scale monster truck where the Losi is a 1/8 scale basher/racer monster truck. I think it's great that they made it. I can see a lot of people getting into solid axle trucks being completely turned off immediately after putting a brushlees system in their newly built SMT10 and completely trashing it...Nice that the LMT will hold up to a lot of abuse out of the box. The fun part about this hobby is that not everything is a competition. I like my Clod based trucks and I like my shaft-driven trucks, they're different but all just as cool as the next.
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