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About 87lc2

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  1. Looks great, decals came out nice. Really like the paint work on the grille as well.
  2. Love the purple & green! I recently used the PS18 on a body as well because I thought it would go well with the green chassis and I love it. Also nice job on the bed, I always paint them on the outside as well, so much easier.
  3. GT7 is supposed to be cross-platform (PS4/PS5), but if it only comes out on PS5 I'll be getting it just for GT7. Have had every PS system and only used them for GT, have loved them all since GT1. Do you currently play GTSport on PS4? If so feel free to add me, I race online a bunch (nyr386).
  4. I usually run the DS3218 PRO in my monster trucks, sometimes the 25kg version. However, I do have a cheap 35kg in a stock Bullhead (stock location servo), and along with some other modifcations to the stock equipment that thing turns pretty darn well for what it is - https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Coreless-Stainless-Waterproof-Standard/dp/B07SWW9NDR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=35kg+servo&qid=1623437395&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkRRVE4yUFQzNFhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjU1NjIzMjJXRzhFNTdET0dESyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzQxMzkwMktaWjM1STRXQ0g5NiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= With the stock location servo the rears will always turn a bit more than the front when moving, but with this servo and some other small modifications this 35kg servo will minimize that as well as turn the wheels full lock to lock with the truck parked.
  5. Haven't been around much lately but just saw this thread and love what you did with this. Definitely a much more race-oriented stance than you previously had it set up. Lower links parallel with the ground is what you want for racing and it definitely has the "racing" stance as it sits. Body looks great as well. For power, Sport mod trucks run 17t brushed motors (Reedy Radon, JConcepts) and 2S power so with stock gearing it makes for a slow truck, but you are allowed to modify gearing in Sport Mod so that's where it gets fun. I've never set up a Clod for that class, mostly use SMT-based trucks, but going with the largest pinions you can fit in there would really be all you can do. Most guys in that class run the largest pinion they can fit because of the relatively short heats. If you just want to have fun with the truck then why not throw dual brushless in it? Twin 4000-4600kv setups would get that thing moving in a hurry.
  6. Reversing y-harness will do it, but ideally you'd want the rear servo on channel 3 and either use a switch or channel mixing for 4ws, much better that way. I'd recommend 25kg servos for the truck, that should be all you need. I run 20-25kg in most of my monster trucks and they work great.
  7. Just flip one of the servos around in the mount (and swap the short steering link to the opposite knuckle), or use a "reversing" Y-harness.
  8. If strictly sticking with 2s go with the 4000kv setups. Personally I like to run lower kv motors with higher voltage on big trucks. Given the choice between the two I'd go with 3000kv on 3s. Preferably 3650 (555) sized cans.
  9. Looks great with the Raptor body, like it was made to go around the SMT10 cage as you said.
  10. The CPE arms are nice, I've used them on a few trucks. They're better with the square stock, but still not perfect and will come loose from time to time. Have been thinking about just drilling straight through and using a driveshaft pin, but haven't tried it yet.
  11. Thanks for the kind words. I agree, the black chassis blends in more and let's the body stand out, good way to put it. Ran the truck hard for about 30 minutes straight yesterday and all was well except for the rear end, either stripped the ring gear or pinion gear (haven't torn it down yet). Did have a locker in the rear, but I do that to most of my SMT10s and this was the first that only got a pack through it before blowing up the rear. That's the one thing I dislike about these SMTs, the weak AR60 axles. Running 540 sized motors saves the drivetrain but they get too hot, 550 motors stay nice and cool but the torque tears up the drivetrain...can't win I guess. As for swaybars on the Clod, I've never felt the need with a stock suspension/chassis setup but it certainly wouldn't hurt. I use CPE square stock and love it - https://teamcpe.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2550&search=sway+bar It's nice and long so just cut to length. Would be cool to see this type of setup on a Clod, good luck with it. Interested to see if it makes a difference.
  12. It actually drives me a bit crazy to have non-runners sitting around, I feel a certain anxiety to get them up and running. Same goes for my 1:1 cars, I try to keep them all in working condition. For RC, some need work or upgrades, but I always keep them with full electronics and theoretically ready to run. Just a mental thing for me I guess.
  13. Thank you! When I get sick of looking at it I'll send it over...warning, might take a while
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