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87lc2

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  1. Great points above by MadAx as usual. I'll probably repeat a lot of what he said, but I wanted to give some input from a newer driver and what has helped improve my lap times over the past few months. Braking - Use it, you will be faster! When started I pretty much never used the brakes and coasted around the corner until I could get into the throttle. This worked well and let me concentrate more on my racing line as well as having the car feel more balanced and being "easier" to drive. Over the past couple of months I have started using the brakes consistently and it has helped immensely as far as lap times and sticking with/beating faster, more seasoned drivers. They key is to set the brake on your radio so it gives you just enough braking to make the tightest corner on the track without upsetting the balance of the car. Using 100% brake will upset the car too much (in most cases) and generally not help since you are losing too much momentum too quickly. Accelerate - Depends on the car (as you mentioned). With the spec classes (TT02 Production, Euro Truck), I am pretty much at 100% throttle immediately after getting the front of the car straight through a turn. For faster classes (VTA, Formula 1) throttle is a lot more gradual and nuanced. I use more mid-corner throttle and throttle blips on the faster cars depending on the corner type and the specific chassis. Point and shoot simply does not work well in TC racing and will not get top times. The most important part of acceleration is to make sure you are at 100% sustained throttle as soon as possible on the last corner before the straight. A lot of drivers lose a lot of time by overshooting the last corner and not getting every last second on the straight. Steering - Only use the amount you need for the tightest turn on the track. A lot of people (myself included when I started) have way too much steering throw and are constantly scrubbing away speed on the track. Learning when to use full lock, and more importantly when not to, has made me a lot faster over the past few months. Radio Settings - Brake and Steering End Points are mandatory, make sure you adjust them per track each time you go out. I have not messed around with Expo or other settings much to this point so can't really answer for that. You said you have done a lot of sim racing and that's good. I have sim raced for years and I attribute my quick success in on road racing to this by simply knowing how to plot a proper course/racing line around the track. By simply following the proper line you will gain time on a lot of drivers that follow the course rather than the line (if that makes sense...) Too many drivers drive further around the track than they need to, steer more than they need to, etc. which slows them down. Using your sim racing background to take the proper line puts you ahead of the game already. Best of luck! I only discovered TC racing since last summer and I just love it. Raced indoor carpet all winter and now back out on the asphalt, love both surfaces and their challenges. It's been a very fun aspect of the hobby so far for me.
  2. Interesting. What would an extra shim there do? I'll definitely give it a shot, willing to try anything to get some more front grip out of this car. It's funny, a lot of racers were struggling with rear grip because it was fairly cool out. I had all the rear grip in the world, just need some more up front.
  3. Finally got the F104 out of the asphalt yesterday. I set the car up with 1 degree of front camber, 0 degrees of front toe, Exotek Super Soft rear tires, and Exotek medium fronts. I had to turn braking down on my radio from 70 (carpet) to 45 so the car would not spin under braking. I set it so the car would rotate ever so slightly when trail braking to rotate into the corners. I'm nearly positive this is not how to drive an F1 car, but it worked really well for me and fit my driving style. I'll fix this moving forward, but it worked for me on that surface. First qualifier went well as far results (TQ), but the car was over steering big time out of the corners. Entry was great, but mid corner and power out the car just pushed. I noticed some decent inner tire wear so switched back to 0 degrees of camber and tightened the damper collar just a bit. No other changes for heat 2 and hoping the camber change would help seeing as the outside of the front tires looked brand new after the first heat. Second qualifier was better, picked up a half a second on my average lap. Car was a bit better in the turns, but still pushed on exit. Only change I made for the main was to loosen the diff by 1/8 turn. I had it set tight for carpet and thought maybe I wasn't getting rotation mid corner due to the diff being too tight. Ended up with TQ so started in pole for the main. Car was even better, picking up another 4 tenths on average lap but still pushed a bit on exit. Was running really well in the main but out of nowhere (no hits or bumps) my steering trim went way out coming off the long back straight. Was OK for a couple corners but it caught up with me, clipped a wall and popped a turnbuckle retiring the car. Shame, was coming up to lapping the field and feeling really good about the run. Oh well, just happy I could do well with a lowly F104 against much higher end chassis. I think the only change left to make is to try Soft tires up front. Most guys say don't do it and they wear too fast, but at this point I'm not sure what else to do for more front grip mid-corner and on power out. Also need to see what in the world happened with the steering. Didn't hit anything and the car just went way out of adjustment seemingly out of nowhere. Definitely don't want that to happen again. Should have the car back on track in a couple weeks, can't wait to get it back out there. I absolutely love driving the F104, and it just looks so cool running around the track.
  4. Excellent, thank you. I still run the stock front end so maybe I'll stay with 0 camber for now and go from there. 0 worked great on carpet and never felt a need to change, but that was very high grip CRC carpet so we'll see. Easy enough to change in the field if I have to. I'll go back to the ball diff and start tight as you said. Thanks again for the tips.
  5. Thank you @TurnipJF So you would suggest leaving the camber at 0 degrees? How about the rear, do you run the ball diff or a spool? Spool was ideal on carpet, but I feel it might limit turning on asphalt?
  6. Been running the F104 all winter on carpet and it worked really well with minimal changes from kit stock settings. Ran CRC tires, locked rear diff, 35wt damper oil, 1 degree toe out, and everything else completely stock. Running it on asphalt for the first time in a couple weeks and I assume some changes will be needed, but not sure where to start? I did order various Exotek tires (Super Soft & Soft Rear, Medium & Firm Front), and will also remove the rear diff locker. Wondering if I should go to 1 degree camber up front as the kit allows, make any changes to the damper, front toe, or anything else? Of course I'll have to dial the car in myself, but would like a good starting point from you guys that have done this since I won't get much practice before the next race day. Any tips appreciated.
  7. I back all of my lexan bodies in Rustoleum 2X generic spray paint and never an issue. I also paint a lot of details on the outside of the body in the same 2X matte black and it looks great. I'd give it a shot with the Rustoleum clear, should work just fine as long as there's a base layer of PS paint on the actual body surface.
  8. Not sure to be honest, I ask myself that question daily I still enjoy racing and have been doing that with the on road cars & monster trucks, but I have zero interest in working on the cars for some reason. I used to go out to the garage every night for a couple hours after my daughter went to bed just to tinker and I haven't done that since January/February or so. I've worked on a few things here and there to keep the race cars going, but I have a stack of cars/trucks/parts etc. that's been sitting waiting to be built and I haven't touched it in a couple months now. I do hope I can get back into it, I have so many cool projects to finish but I can't bring myself to get out there and do it. It's really weird to be honest. I'd hate to think I'll move on from the hobby after everything I've amassed and done which s why I'm keeping it all for now (I don't even have the motivation to sell anything to be honest). Maybe its a mid life crisis, can that happen at 41? Who knows, I've been feeling a bit off lately. Maybe my priorities are changing with my daughter getting older and just having more responsibility and different priorities.
  9. Not to sound harsh, but that truck is junk. I've seen quite a few guys try to race them and it never works out well. At minimum you need heavy axle braces (Freestyle I think), and then there's all the other issues that guys mentioned above. There are much better options at this point and the plate style chassis isn't realistic by any stretch so there's not even much use as the base for a build. Sure, you can make them work with a drivetrain transplant, but not worth the headache. Just trying to save you the trouble.
  10. I'd just put RC to the side for now and see how you feel in a few months. I'm at the same point to be honest. Not out of anger or frustration fortunately, but I'm just over the RC thing. Rather than sell everything straight away I'll just let it sit for a while and see how it goes. If I want to get back into it the cars will be there and I won't have to start over. If I don't get back into it I'll just give away or sell the stuff down the road. Best of luck with whatever you decide, hope it works out for you. I would suggest hanging on to the stuff for now though...
  11. I use stand-up workbenches for RC, honestly never even thought about having a sit down workbench for some reason...I have two fairly high benches situated in a corner that give me plenty of space and I've stood there for hours without issue (a nice standing mat helps for sure). My back is pretty good but I've had small issues in the past year where I'll tweak it and as you said it stays that way for about 2 weeks until it goes back to normal. It's not totally debilitating, but really annoying when it happens and I'm not even sure what triggers it for the most part so its a real shocker when it goes bad.
  12. Shouldn't have any steering issues with a TT02 even on a tight track. I actually turn my steering down quite a bit when racing - less turning = less tire scrub = more corner speed. Be sure to take a wider line when not defending position, you'll be faster.
  13. Some great advice already and seems you're getting it sorted. I run an SRX in VTA racing and its been very successful to this point. The only updates to the chassis itself are a bearing holder (to get proper gearing), a center carbon brace, and carbon top deck. Other than that she's out of the box stock. I run about 5mm side height and very soft suspension which gives tons of grip with this chassis. Higher end plate chassis will like a stiffer setup, but I've found the TT02 to like a decent amount of body roll that really lets the tires dig in and get traction. A spool up front helps with a loose rear as well. The only issue with a soft setup like I run is that you have to make sure you're tires are glued and prepped perfectly. I run glue just up onto the shoulder of the front tires and fully sauce both fronts & rears. The key is getting that glue right so you can take advantage of all the grip. Asphalt is a different story altogether, but I assume you're asking about carpet.
  14. Hope your daughter is OK! I certainly wouldn't want to be smacked in the face by a Clod Tough kid! Funny you posted this, I had a similar experience at a race this weekend with the monster trucks. All of my trucks are on the same Futaba transmitter and I've never had an issue switching between models, turning trucks off, etc. Not sure exactly how it happened, but a truck was called up to race that I wasn't expecting (guess I forgot where we were in the bracket progression) so I quickly turned it on and got it out on the track for a warm up lap. About 10 seconds in a heard a bunch of commotion in the pits and apparently I forgot to turn the previous truck off and it went flying off the pit table and across the room. It was an LMT with a 4000kv 3665 motor so you can imagine that thing just took off Luckily it was stopped by a pit bag against a wall so no damage to other trucks, people, kids, dogs, cats, etc. What was funny about it was when I was on track with the other truck I thought the motor sounded extra healthy, turns out I was just hearing the same power system in stereo in the background being controlled by the same trigger finger that was driving the truck on track. Could have turned out much worse and I would have felt terrible if it were to hit a person or even another competitors truck and did some damage.
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