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87lc2

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Everything posted by 87lc2

  1. I agree, one of the best parts of building a Tamiya kit for me is painting the body. Sometimes its a pain (especially in the winter months with cold weather), but I feel a much closer attachment to vehicles I've painted/detailed myself. I will say one thing - I'm always looking through the TC Showroom to see what alternate colors people are using on bodies and I'm always surprised to see just how many don't change the color and go with box art. Maybe Tamiya noticed this and figured it would be nice to help the 90% of people out that go with box art anyway. Wishful thinking I'm sure, it's most likely just a sales pitch to get more people to buy the kits that are put off by clear bodies that need to be finished. I think most (TC members excluded) would prefer to just build the kit and go. That's if they even have the patience to build a kit in the first place, most just want to open a box and make a YouTube video of them absuing a new RC all within 15 minutes of the package showing up at their door.
  2. Saw this too. I actually need some Grasshopper parts and it might make more sense to just buy a new one at this price and keep my older car for spares...I feel like there's something I want to buy nearly every week, wallet needs a break every now and then...
  3. If you just have the one car with a brushed motor and not planning on getting more or putting a brushless system in it NiMh is fine. However, if you plan to upgrade power in the future or you think you'll be buying more models just bite the bullet and go with Lipo now. They're inexpensive nowadays as are the chargers and they do perform better. The only special thing you need to do with them is keep them somewhere safe (I use cheap ammo cans that can be bought anywhere), not much special care needed. Of course you need to look after the cells, but that's not a huge deal. I have been using exclusively Lipo for 5-6 years now and have never had an issue, and I wouldnt say I'm diligent about taking care of them either. Don't be scared off by some of the horror stories, if you're looking to get back into RC and you think you'll be buying more cars/upgrading just go for it.
  4. Been slow progress on this, too many other things going on. I did end up receiving the motor and mounted it this morning. Had to use a couple of spacers as the shaft would have hit the gearbox cover and really didnt want to cut the shaft, should be fine. Motor is a huge 1/8 scale Castle 2650kv, looks great in there. Also converted the rear axle for steering and mounted 20kg servos on each axle. Just waiting on a new ESC fan for my MM2 and can get here running. Still haven't given any more thought to the body, but should have it running soon...
  5. The Grasshopper looks great! Those old, yellowed wheels almost look like the neon versions Those Hornet tires are much more useful than the stock Grasshopper paddle tires. I love the look of the paddles, but they are pretty useless for actual running.
  6. Yea, I was just going to get some Proline Hoosiers or something like that, I see JConcepts has tires too. I do really like the TRX Funny car rear wheels, but they're not as easy to find as they used to be. Wow, thats a low turn motor. Thick the closest thing I have is a 4600kv Castle system, I'll have to get something else. Didn't even know they were making drag specific stuff, just saw the Trinity Drag Master motors, that looks like a good option. Can't image I'd need anything crazy ESC wise, will probably just get a decent Hobbywing. Most likely wont get around to this for a little bit, but thanks for all the info. Btw, that Cuda body is awesome.
  7. Thanks for the info, I figured the parts would add up to more than the cost of a new DR10 kit. It's pretty reasonable at $200, might just go that route and I get to build a kit which is always enjoyable. I do like the idea of using a Tamiya, but the body I have is massive. Funny, when it arrived I was shocked at how big it was. Like I said, probably not going to compete but would be nice to have a compatible power system if I ever decide to get in some local races. What are people using in thes no prep cars? Obviously brushless, I would assume sensord setups? What kv/turn motors are people using?
  8. Nice Nova, love the big Traxxas Funny Car tires with the yellow Goodyear lettering. I bought one of the JConcepts Grand National bodies when they came out and while I dont have much interest in actually racing, I need a chassis to put it on. I thought the easiest would be just to buy a DR10, but might be cheaper to do a Traxxas conversion. There is so much info out there and not all of it it easy to sort through (especially on Traxxas forums). Is there a guide on what you need to convert a Slash (or Bandit) with a parts list? Or is it as easy as just throwing drag tires on one of the chassis?
  9. Not only was Tamiya a lot of peoples' first RC, Tamiya themselves made a lot of firsts in the RC world and was more than innovative back in the early days of RC. Most started with a Grasshopper or Hornet back in those days, but they were well aware of the Tamiya 3-speeds, Sand Scorcher, Avante, tanks, Clod Buster, etc. Even if you couldn't afford it, the marketing brochures and box art of those high end Tamiya pieces left a huge impression on people. They really let your imagination run wild, whereas today you can see new models 1000x over in YouTube videos as soon as they are released. No sense of mystery or desire anymore in RC which is more a sign of the times than a problem with the industry or any certain brand. For example, when you saw a picture in a magazine or the huge box of the Clod Buster in your local hobby shop back in the late 80s you just knew it was something special. If the Clod was released today it would be laughed at for being slow, bouncy, and just plain bad afer there were 20 YouYube videos released as soon as it was available for purchase (please nodoby take this as a bash of the Clod, it's my all time favorite RC ). Ironically, my first RC was an original RC10 Gold Pan, but my father had a lot of the big Tamiyas of the day and they left much more of an impression on me than Associated or the RC10 ever did. Still fond of my RC10, but not enough to wish them bringing it back for a another re-release.
  10. I did look through the Dynahead manual and get all of the part numbers for the portals a while back, but most parts were unavailable. The housings are around, PN 19115480, but haven't been able to find the gears available anywhere.
  11. After seeing your thread I'm confident these will work on a lot of Tamiya chassis (inluding the TA01 I want to use them on). Too bad the best way to get them is by buying an entire MB TR or Dynahead kit. Would be a cool upgrade for my Hummer, but not $250 cool...
  12. I forget how the stock servos are set up on the TXT, but you can use either a servo Y-Harness or reversing Y-Harness for 4ws if that's how you choose to do it. I have my servos mounted behind the axles and just have them in separate channels (ch3/ch4) and use 4WS mix on my radio to control it. Can also control the rear with a switch. As long as you have a 4ch radio, I would just use separate channels. For a 3ch radio, the harness will work fine.
  13. I haven't done this, but have been thinking about it for a while. From the looks of it, the portals should bolt right up to the TA01/TA02 arms, in which case would make my Hummer just that much more realistic. Not sure if they will actually fit, but after looking at them no reason they wouldn't As far as other chassis not sure, hopefully someone has done it and will post up.
  14. That should work, it's definitely a Tamiya female to TRX male so shouldn't have a problem with that if it's the way you want to go.
  15. I understand. If you're only planning on having a few vehicles and there's no need to standardize for a lot of RCs then adapter can work. These should work so you can use your Tamiya connector batteries on the Slash - https://www.amazon.com/FLY-RC-Traxxas-Adapter-Connector/dp/B07P5WMRBK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=tamiya+to+traxxas+adapter&qid=1611085776&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMTZOTzcxMUYzRkFaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjE2MzI4MTFBODdDWkhPTVkxRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjU4NjUyMUNRU0U0TzkxUTZMUiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
  16. Are you talking about the battery connector on the ESC? If so, just get whatever plug matches your batteries and solder it to the Traxxas ESC. You can use adapters, but you're better off soldering the proper connector on there. If you're planning on getting more vehicles then having the ESC & batteries all with the same connector will be easier in the long run. I would suggest Deans (T-Plug) or XT60, Tamiya battery connectors are OK for stock vehicles, but anything drawing decent current you want a better connector. The Traxxas connector is actually pretty good, but you have to use their batteries so I never stuck with them.
  17. Yes, Traxxas will be mostly hex head hardware (as are most other brands besides Tamiya). I have bought some of the hex driver sets from Amazon and sometimes they're good, sometimes they're bad. Since you're dealing with very small heads here, if the tool is too soft they will round off on no time. I bought this set a year ago to have in my other workspace and they have held up surprisingly well for a cheaper set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJ9CK85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MIP drivers are the standard, but very $$$$. Not sure on the Traxxas tools, but I'm sure they are of good quality as well.
  18. The tool set @Gazebo recommended is great, I have been using the JIS drivers from that set for years and they still work like new, would never use a Phillips head on Tamiya screws again. For other vehicles (Traxxas, etc.) get a nice set of hex drivers. 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm are the most common sizes you'll use. I couldn't live without my hex drivers, use them daily. If you're doing a lot of wrenching get a small cordless impact, will save a tone of time and your wrists.
  19. Oh, I thought you got a new one. Even better that it's the original.
  20. Yes it is! Vintage Lunchbox is looking great with the new body!
  21. You pobably wont get a great deal used on Ebay. I would check local sale sites (get most of mine from Craigslist/Facebook here in the US). In fact, I buy from local sale sites but only sell on Ebay as you get way more on Ebay due to the larger audience.
  22. This is a great suggestion. Not sure how it is where you are, but there are used crawlers for decent prices all over in the US. You can get a lot more for your money when buying used. I see high end trucks selling for $100-$200 less than retail (with upgrades) all the time because people got bored of them and barely used them.
  23. No primer, I just spray the bed liner directly on the plastic after scuffing the plastic (use a red scotch-brite pad), and then go over the bed-liner with regular Rustoleum or Krylon matte black. Have never had paint peel using this method and temps above 40F. I rarely use primer as most nice spray paints for plastics these days have primer in them. Unless I'm doing a very light color of course, then a primer helps avoid having to use too many coats. Best thing to do (I do this with nearly every paint job when using new paints), is do a bit of a test on a piece of scrap first coat by coat just to make sure none of the paints react with each other.
  24. Yea, I hear you about the weather. Painted a body a few weeks ago when it was a bit too cold and ruined it...Have been taking some things to work lately and when everyone's gone I'll paint in the shop with the exhaust fan on. Actually been working out pretty well, problem is I have to stay late at work which is not ideal. Metallic red will look great on there, especially with a black roof. Just a suggestion - I use Krylon spray on bed liner for caps/roofs/beds topped in regular matte black and it comes out looking nice. Here are a few shots of it in case you're interested to see what it ends up looking like.
  25. I second the Gen8, very impressed with mine. It's a lot nice than I thought it would be for the money and haven't broken a thing on it, and I run it pretty hard. You can get the chassis kit for around $150USD, but you'll need electronics, body, and wheels/tires so by that point you're close to RTR money unless you have stuff lying around. I would steer clear of the plastic SCX10 knock-offs. Got a hold of one at some point and it is absolute junk. However, the all metal clones are actually nice (but not that cheap). Got one for free from a supplier at work and have trailed/crawled it a lot and holding up great. If you can find a good deal on one of them it's worth it. Other than that I dont think you'll get anything decent for under $300 all in, that seems to be the buy in for a decent, reliable crawler these days. You definitely get what you pay for with crawler/trail rigs.
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