nde63h

i don't like the paint job too so i leave my cars unpainted..^^'

i like the Tamiya bruiser rims and tyres. they look powerful and beautiful especially after you used them in dirt or sand environments.

i usually play my rc car at pavements. yesterday i took it to the hiking trail. it was fun.

i have the re-re and i don't like the black color of the frame. i designed to disassemble the whole thing and give each component a detail clean and protective coating. do you have any suggestion? thanks in advance..^^

i think they should match. if esc is the bottleneck, upgrading motor would not enhance performance. if motor is the bottleneck, upgrading esc would not enhance performance.

yes congrats you figured it out..^^ this is not the pin at cvd end that should be align with the pin at dogbone end. this is the.. i don't know how to name that thing.. the hollow cylinder at cvd end that should be align with the pin at dogbone end.

if your preference doesn't limit to Tamiya products i would recommend axial scx10 or gmade sawback..^^

imho, the design in following pic is correct..^^'

imagine you bend the cv end to horizontal, as shown in the diagram. the little pin inside cv end would go vertical, which doesn't parallel to the pin at the dog bone side..

1, yes the shaft in the middle still speeds up & slows down during each revolution. 2, the "double cardan at one end while dog bone at the other" design doesn't preserve angular velocity. 3, yes 1:1 vehicles use true cv joints like this

"cvd" is only a name. it doesn't preserve angular velocity. even the input shaft rotates steadily the output shaft still fluctuates if they have non-zero bending angle. double cardan joint is true cvd. this is basically double cardan joint (in terms of angular velocity preservation) this is NOT

it really matters..^^ as the op's realized, cvds and dogbones don't preserve angular velocity due to elliptical movement of the joint. cvds / dogbones / universal joints all share the same behavior in terms of angular velocity. we can always resolve any cvd / dogbone into universal joint for the sake of structural analysis. let's consider this one this is, in terms of behavior in angular velocity, the same as this and this is wrong. the two joints don't cancel out the fluctuations produced due to elliptical movements. this should be corrected by installing them this way for detail explanation, we can have a look here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint this is a interesting topic..^^

the cvd in photo has design fault. the pin at the dog bone end should be perpendicular to that in the cvd joint end.

thanks.. one important thing for all bruiser owners: the slops between wheels and axles were gone! i found that the lock nuts tightening the wheel adapters and axles could be tighten more (for about half to one revolution) if you use your truck for enough time. i guess the following had happened: 1, we pushed the "G1"s into wheel hubs with some difficulties as they were very tight 2, the "G1"s didn't sit inside wheel hubs deep enough 3, in the course of using, weight of the truck / vibrations generated from environments made the "G1"s went more deeply into wheel hubs 4, slops appeared so if we remove the wheels, we can tighten the lock nuts more after enough time of playing. now they have no slops at all. very good condition. the conclusion is: don't let your bruiser sit only on the shelf. use it!....^^

i agree with this. that's the reason i bought re-re bruiser.