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  1. wheels are outermost parts of the car. using heavier wheels increases rotational inertia about longitudinal axle.
  2. torque twist can be reduced by increasing longitudinal rotational inertia of the car. this can be done by re-distributing the masses of components (e.g. place the battery transversely rather than longitudinally) adding more weights at outer most parts (e.g. use heavy alloy wheels) reducing weights of longitudinally rotating parts (e.g use light weight gears / main drive shafts) it’s all about physics.....
  3. try your best to make axle weights rather than wheel weights as additional rotational masses greatly increase the burden of the whole transmission system.
  4. https://www.rccaraction.com/the-25-most-important-rc-cars-of-all-time-x/
  5. when I was small I drove my friend's Tamiya hornet into a lake. the water was so clear that we were able to watch it going further and further, deeper and deeper. finally the thing went out of signal. my friend looked at me. I looked at him. we looked at the lake.
  6. shelf queens should have no scratch / damage / wear. i had built two rere bruisers and both of them had scratches on the parts out of the boxes. for example you can see imperfections on those metal parts
  7. it depends on your intention. there is no need to upgrade anything if you use it as a basher / fun car..
  8. the photo shooting style of the op is the same as me..^^ what's the progress now?
  9. and the df03. a buggy with excellent weight balance.
  10. if you build this kit according strictly to the manual (i did) you would have a lot of excessive 5x0.3mm shims. you are right there are many places that need more shims than the manual suggested to elimate plays / slops. as you noticed the guide marks on the axles are useless in helping to align the axles. to make all the nuts on the axle holders equally tightened you used depth gauge and i used "counting method". i tightened all nuts with equal number of turns. i tightened ALL 16 nuts half turn at a time until the axles cannot rotate / displace anymore. setting the front axle neutral (instead of 5 degrees) is good. i did the same. i didn't apply any synthetic rubber cement as suggested by the manual in mounting the axles. i managed to hold the whole thing in 2 hands..^^ one important thing: i altered some steps in mounting the axles. i installed the leafs onto the chassis first (leafs only, without axles). then i mounted the axles onto the leafs. i found it more easily to do the measurements and the leafs must be parallel to each other. looking forward to your progress..^^
  11. you can find brand new df03 in ebay
  12. so there is one difficulty that seems impossible to overcome: “g”, the acceleration due to gravity. no matter how you tweak the suspension system and/or the weight distribution, a rc car would freely fall faster than its full size counterpart (a 1:10 rc car uses 0.14s to fall 0.1m while a 1:1 car uses 0.45s to fall 1m). it is very common to have the chassis lifted in the air for several cm after one wheel encountering a bump for a off-road car. the motion of falling would look “too fast” in such scenario. this cannot be solved unless you can alter the “g”.
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