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About kevinb120

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  1. Well at least one could get a proper set of quality tamiya decals for the original alternative paint scheme
  2. Are you talking about the photo of the actual 1:1 above?
  3. Hrm, I've used rere well nuts on all vintage parts, vintage with rere trays, and rere's. Have you tried wetting it a little bit? I most likely licked mine but a dab of water might get it done.
  4. 959, xlt f150, and blazing blazer would be about the only ones I'd buy that haven't been already done.
  5. Yes! Thank you very much I didn't want to set it up by eye then discover it was wrong when I eventually find the right body post. Wow and same day service! And great pic to make it easy to fabricate
  6. Now that the weather's good for painting I'm back on some of my hardbody projects. I have a fully restored XLT Ranger Chassis but I need to convert a blackfoot shell to fit. I've revived this project https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86849-finally-found-an-xlt-ranger-srb-to-be-restored-with-a-bit-of-sacrilege/ I need to see if someone could get some measurements for me for two items. A: For the rear metal body post(mine's only missing this part) I need the measurement for the surface contacting the roll bar to the hole for the body clip. For the time being I can simply mount a CC01 type post on there, been trolling for quite a while for this part as it's not shared with any other vehicle. B: For the rear molded stand-offs, the height for the anti-rock stand offs from the top of the arch(roll hoop contact point) to the underside of the body. Easy to make up with some styrene if I knew what size they were. To this day, the blackfoot shell still has 'ghosts' of the original switch hole, antenna hole(very clearly marked), and the post location still faintly in the shell underside. I simply need to fill all the blackfoot conversion parts and add the stand-offs along with some handy Dremel work. I have vintage grill/tailgate and can make do with some ampro emblems. I can probably figure it out, but the location under a shell is not the easiest to measure and judge the heights at the same time. If anyone can help check a shell/post and let me know it would be a great help! Thanks in advance for anyone that could do it!
  7. And use any modern led flashlight to spot fallen screws. They'll shine pretty bright on most carpet or hardwood floor. Tamiya nuts have some magical stored energy, fall 3', bounce 11' in some random direction...
  8. Changed my mind for the 5th time on how I have my frog front shock conversion(crp towers with scorpion shocks). I get full shock travel with the lower trailing arm/rod holes but loose that extra stability they provide. At least now I have every possible spacer/bolt/washer combination I need to stop taking it apart and run it...
  9. Not much this week, just a 95% condition blackfoot/xlt original grille I got for $20 shipped-cheap enough to use on a runner
  10. That and cough up a couple bucks for real *******in sponsor decals. There's many a cheaper toy out there that's fully licensed.
  11. Depending on the kit some are still available shipped closer to pre map pricing on Ebay from some us sellers, at least cheaper then current prices from tower even with a coupon. Rcmart is great especially for batches of smaller parts that are not kit take-offs. Larger orders like kits are fine too but can randomly get hung up in NY for a few weeks sometimes. The map prices have really put a damper on my interest in tamiya reres tho, I'm back shopping vintage deals on Ebay
  12. Convert just the front suspension to 233mm and carefully align the body a.couple mm off the 'dots', it's more centered in the wheel wells then 230 or 236.
  13. My son became interested in my cars recently, I build tamiya's mostly for the memories and run my slash or trx more then anything else. I cobbled together a frog from some orv spares I had with him, he loved the experience. After some frustration, and quite a few upgrades trying to get it to run anything like a modern car, I broke down and got him a new rustler rtr for under 200. Runs like a champion and haven't touched a thing he's got his first 'shelfer' with a near mint frog tho. Will work with him with upgrades and any repairs with the rustler, and he can help me continue to build my pile of tamiya shelf-bound projects. But there's something to be said about modern r/c, vs trying to deal with relics that turn one way under gas and spin another under brake and get stuck in anything resembling grass, and even in rere form are a lot more expensive.
  14. Probably the last one in the US at the original price
  15. Here's a rather definitive thread on what it takes to restore SRB parts of all types to the 9's https://tamiyabase.com/articles/53-how-to/188-srb-metal-cleaning-restoration I just did my F150 but instead of the final glass bead/blasting steps, which is not easy to get done for most, I went ahead and painted the cast cases after full cleaning with sonic/degreasers/stainless brushes to pretty good effect. The harder cast pieces like the uprights and suspension arms came out like new just with careful cleaning/stainless brushes. If you look at the front end pic of my F150, the cast pot metal parts are painted, the original upper control arms cleaned, and the lower control arms are brand new re-re parts. You can't tell the difference from the 35+ yo upper arms. May want to consider just cleaning and painting the pot metal sand cast parts if they're anything like the SRB cases. I did them with light dusting coats, almost dry on the last few to keep the slight 'rough' texture. The cases look 95% or better compared to my brand new re-re cases. A stainless brush is a bit softer then a carbon steel brush, so they don't scratch up the harder cast parts so much, if at all. If the gearbox is that same hard finish as most vintage metal tamiya suspension components it should clean up, but if it's that 'rough' cast finish like srb cases, they never come out to new with just chemical/mechanical cleaning. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86849-finally-found-an-xlt-ranger-srb-to-be-restored-with-a-bit-of-sacrilege/ Cast supports painted, suspension tubes and metal body post cleaned, light sanded and liquid metal polish by hand(not to a chrome look, but brushed), lower arms new, upper arms and knuckles just cleaned.
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