DTSCB

I want to say that the dogbone can pop out if the control arms swing too high or too low. If you disconnect the shock, you should be able to move it to where it can fall out/back in on its own. From there, you can decide it the movement is natural enough for you to want to do it when the shock is in place. Also note that you may need to turn the wheels while it is in this sweet spot for it to actually happen.

Does the gear box have two outputs to do this? I've tried, but can't find the BT-01 Manual online anywhere.

Ok, I take it back. I don't think this is possible. Noticed the chassis direction is switched between the left and middle cars in the diagram above? https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare-parts/rc-mb-01-ld-parts/ It looks like a two part chassis that you couldn't take only the gear box side twice. OR, maybe you can if you fabricate the joining?

After looking at this picture, what you want to do comes better into focus. I don't see why you couldn't do both. I'm sort of tempted to buy two kits to find out!

What is the car on the right?

I'm interested. Is this just an idea... or did someone actually do this? I know very little about the BT-01 platform though.

I did try both.

So, I got a "birthday" coupon code email from tower last month... everything I've tried to put in my cart, it doesn't work on. I don't know what it is for, or any rules to it. Just that it doesn't work. lol Tower, you're such a joke now.

Where are you buying these kit deals?

I run a 10.5T brush-less in my Top Force Evo ReRe. I'm happy with it. As long as everything is working (no blown diff), it handles great. Almost too great as it can be boring to drive at times. (Which reminds me, I should replace the worn out tires while it is on "winter snow" break.) I run it around pretty hard, but stay away from any kind of medium to large jumping with it. Mostly because some of the parts are getting harder to find to fix it. It has a lot of custom bits you won't want to lose or break. My TA-02T F150, which is very similar, I tend to drive/bash more as I can get basically all of the parts for it. (It is based on a TA-02 Lancia) It has large tires and it bit too fast for its setup. But, it lets me live on the edge of speed, which makes it fun! As long as you are ok chasing harder to find parts, go for it

If you are trying to get the braking to feel like a 4WD car, it just won't. This is why a lot of races use to be in classes. 2wd and 4wd were not in the same class. Do you have other 2wd cars? How well does it break when compared to those?

Why do they recommend a 4ch radio? What does the 4th channel do? (Vs a 3 ch radio)

The slipper is for absorbing shocks to the drive train instead of the gears. Sure, power can play a roll in this. But the key is things like jumping. When you land, the slipper takes some of the shock out when you regain traction. That all being said, my current favorite car to drive is a TA-02T F-150. On my sad old drive way. It has dips, and those play havoc with loss of traction at speed. The car has a 10.5T brushless motor in it. It is far faster than it is stable. (Common complaint back in the day of brushed motors too.) The amount of rollovers, spins out and other shocks to the drive train is huge. I mean, that is why I drive the TA-02T F-150 the most. Living on the edge of speed pushing the limits to the max! My most repaired part on my TA-02T are the rims. Yep, poor car goes flying that much. It needs to move to it 3rd set of rims. Original tires too. (Not glued.) I'm pretty sure my rear ball diff is blown or has some other problems due to the abuse and it is currently sidelined for repair. A slipper likely would help with that. The front diff is gears... so, well one day they'll just have to be replaced. I'm thinking of swapping them to a ball diff too.

This kills me sometimes. I see a cool car and what I see as must have hop ups (slipper clutch) and... discontinued. I was looking at a Dark Impact a few years ago... and passed on it due to this. It didn't get me anything over the Top Force Evo. (At least not without the slipper clutch!)

I recently built a TA-02T F-150 from the current Lancia Kit. Info and parts needed here: Edit: I should note that the N Tree with the front steering links and bumper is impossible to find. You'll need to use turn buckles and make custom links and cut down your own front bumper.

I still use Nimh batteries too. But, for me to buy used, you'd have to tell me how old they are and what max capacity they charge to now from your peak charger. You'd also have to provide a reasonable discount as they are used. Since these batteries aren't that expensive, you likely won't make much for your trouble. You can always offer them up for free and "buyer" covers shipping? (Have the buyer purchase the shipping label and email it to you.)

You got like an actual printed tower catalog? They still do those?

Wow, this is all so crazy. I used to get orders (as a member) the next day or the day after due to them being close. Then they skunked me on $10~20 in loyalty points. And I quit their membership. Looks like it was a good time to get out. I always hated how it seemed they didn't carry much in spare parts. Not missing tower.

I'm not opposed to the idea, but the ones on amazon are just batteries that you dead short to burn the weld. The reviews are disappointing. I would need a recommended one from a reputable seller with reputable reviews that doesn't break the bank.

I always heard them called "hammer head tips" as they looked like little hammers. Discontinued link here to see pic: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hammer-head-soldering-tip.html

I'm soldering the batteries directly to each other end to end in the old stacked 3 next to stacked 3 style that fits in older/rere cars. By any chance do you have a link to the flat tip are you using?

I'm looking to solder some sub c batteries together. My tips aren't working. The ones that reach without contacting the battery insulation don't have enough heat (too small). My larger ones either hit the battery insulation or are really for something else and the contact area isn't the warm functional part of the tip. I can't find the "hammer head" tips that used to be used. They just don't seem to be made anymore? I have a couple different soldering irons: RadioShack Soldering Station Pro Line 70W 6400207 (tip slids in and over the heater, screw on sleeve to hold it all on) Old xy tronic soldering iron (analog dial for temp, analog gauge for current temp) (tip slides in, solid bottom on tip, screw on sleeve to hold the tip on) I also have a radio shack desolding iron, which would take a "rod" tip that uses a set screw (kind of like a grub screw) to hold the tip in place. But, if you can find the right tip and it doesn't fit or work well in these, I'm not opposed to getting an inexpensive soldering iron for this job. Any ideas? Thanks!

Wouldn't this one be top dog? (I don't own one) Item# 58690-A Landfreeder Quadtrack Tt-02Ft

I second something that will run on the lawn. Just driving on the road/driveway can be limiting. Unless it is a tightly packed planned subdivision with not much lawn... then it might not matter. My kids have trouble staying on the driveway. And it is a big circle driveway. Midnight pumpkins that can lawn and road are best. My newer to the collection TA-02T (F150 Baja) than can do ok on the lawn runs really well too, but it isn't in current production... it blows the price cap away to "convert" a kit and get the right parts.

You have to actively rebuy the membership. No auto renew, at least not that I know of.