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About Bromley

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    Medway, UK.

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  1. I miss the old rc mags.โ˜น
  2. For ยฃ200...I'd probably go with a brushless FTX Carnage on 2S or if you could stretch a little the Arrma Senton 3S is a nice bit of kit.
  3. Continued the sticker marathon that is the CC02 G500! Should look good when finished though.
  4. Probably a hall effect sensor, to sync engine sounds with motor rotation.
  5. Cut out my G500 cc02 body. Painting it tomorrow.๐Ÿ™‚
  6. TXT-2 was my longest chassis build. Still it's really fun too send flying off small jumps and hoon over rough ground. It's a real quality kit and very authentic in many ways to the real monster trucks. After that.... The one that stands out for grabbing the attention and pure build enjoyment was the Clodbuster. The scale of the thing just puts a silly grin on your face. Not so long to build as the TXT-2, but the hard body is an extra element. Then comes my most recent build... The new CC02 is a great chassis to assemble, for a normal size 1:10 it really demands you pay attention and don't miss any steps. The penalty for not placing a nut or screw in quite the right place can lead to a lot of unnecessary disassembly. Be warned!
  7. I have to agree with Frog Jumper here... Clean your MB up and savour the vintage memories. A rere will save you a lot of headaches and money in the long run. Buy the boy a Lunchbox, Madbull or a Hornet or similar and have fun tearing it up together. Bromley
  8. What have you done to the wheels? They look great.
  9. If you fancy a ReRe build to kick off a serious addiction, the Blitzer beetle is a good start and still drives very well despite its ageing design. It can take some proper modern brushless power too. The Wild One is a great buggy but I find it not as forgiving to drive as the Blitzer and less tolerant of powerful motor set ups. If you want something a little more challenging to build then the ReRe Boomerang is a cracking platform. This will take reasonable power systems and still drives very well on most surfaces. Good looking classic buggy too. Bromley
  10. Some magnetic mounts and a simple cross brace with slopeing pieces tying the body post together would be the way to go.
  11. I'm considering getting one of these gadgets just for fun. Stick it in the Clod or Lunch Box. Trouble is I cant seem to get information on if the thing can be programmed using Linux Mint. I quit using Microsoft products years ago, for my own personal reasons (I hate being held to ransom by multi billion dollar dictatorships). I just wondered if any Linux users on here had bought one and had any luck downloading/writing files to the unit. It looks a nice performing piece of kit for the money. Bromley
  12. Sell the TT02B and the Levant.....buy a Clodbuster black edition and a King Hauler, If you like building and modifying....just a thought.๐Ÿ˜
  13. I use Deans connectors now. Used Tamiya exclusively when I 1st got back into the hobby, but had to many fail. Not from over heating, but the pins got loose and kept falling out of the back of the plugs every time I tried to push them together. Deans connectors, I find them easy to solder, smaller when space is tight and extremely tough. I only run 2s and 3s occasionally. Still have a few ESCs to convert. Feel a little victory inside each time I do one! ๐Ÿ˜
  14. I'm in the middle of a Blitzer refresh. Mine gets abused to the full. A regular strip down is handy for finding problems before they develop. I run a 4370kv Goolrc brushless combo. On 2S it's pretty quick and handles that sort of power with ease. This strip down has revealed cracks in the chassis tub and lower front B parts. A common place Blitzers fail. For tyres I run Schumacher Vee4 on the rear and at the moment stock tamiya fronts. I'll up grade to Schumacher Vee2 fronts in time.
  15. I'd go with painting the pin stripe colour 1st, then mask it of with tamiya 2mm masking tape, as it conforms to compound curves and irregular surfaces very well. Mask one side of the line fully, paint it, then mask the other side removing as much of the 2mm tape as you want to with a scalpel. Then spray the final colour.
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