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About Bromley

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    Medway, UK.

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  1. I did run it completely stock at first just to see what it was all about. Sadly the standard esc and motor didn't last more than about 4 or 5 2s lipo packs. The gearing is pretty tall in these, even with the smaller 17t pinion. Shortly after getting the truck I installed a number of the FTX hopups. Just to future proof against silly breakages. Alloy chassis plate, lower and upper links, axle top and bottom mounts, lower link to chassis mounts and steel drive shaft. The brushless is a Goolrc 3500kv 60amp combo. On it's 1st run it threw the drive shaft which was a little disappointing. The cross pins are held in with grubs, but they pins are very hard and the grubs don't bite into them at all. So they tend to shake loose, even when locktite is applied. I bought another shaft stripped it completely, degreased it and built it up again very carefully with locktite. Same thing happened...so I went again but making use of the old shafts parts. This time I ground a flat on the cross pins so as long as the screw doesn't back out the pin is retained mechanically. So far so good, even on 3s lipo.😁 As for...is it any good... The weakest point of the stock truck is the chassis plate, they tend to snap right were the lower links attach. That's why I changed mine out straight away. The stock axle mounts are pretty vulnerable, as are the top links themselves. And the brushed motor/esc, while fairly quick, they just don't last. The spares are dirt cheap. The genuine FTX hopups are cheap and made well enough.(steel drive shaft needs subtle re-work) Running this thing is a complete hoot. It lifts a wheel on hard throttle application. Rides the ground really well on stock shocks. Given a little power boost and some sensible mods it makes for a fun rig. The only part I can't comment on is the stock radio gear. I ripped this out before I even put a battery in it. I just can't get on with pistol TXs. I run a FlySky FSI6 Stick TX. So in summation...buy one, but reckon on getting a budget brushless combo for it and the alloy chassis plate as a minimum. The rest can be upgraded or replaced as it breaks...or not. I keep looking at the Losi Rock Rey kit. Trouble is I only have about £200 in the Outlaw, I'm not sure the Losi will give me much more in terms of grin factor.
  2. Not Tamiya...but my FTX Outlaw has seen some work. I painted the driver insert, made new body panels from plasticard, fuel cell from aluminium sheet, extinguishers from various leftovers, light bar and the grill are made of aluminium angle. Still needs some more stickers and the light bars not finished yet... Very happy with how it goes now. I fitted a 3500kv combo and got 29mph on 2s with a 17t pinion. It's a really fun basher with some scale looks. Also in progress is my Hornet restoration, just waiting on parts for that.
  3. Racing fighters are pretty quick even with the stock torque tuned. I'd either go, Blitzer beetle, they turn in nicely on less than perfect ground, or Wild One, those things are brilliant fun on tight twisty tracks. Not too fast and tough enough, so when you run into the garden gate it won't disintegrate.
  4. I miss my Traxxas Rad 2, still can't remember for the life of me what happened to it.
  5. I was just being cheap to be honest 😂. But it would be nice to keep as much of the original buggy. I want to make it as near to original as possible. But, yellowed manky wheels aren't my bag. I'm now waiting on parts. I'll put a little thread together once finished...but we all kinda know what a stock Hornet looks like.
  6. While away doing some more on my restoring, I have come round to the idea of new wheels. Should hopefully have them in a day or two. Thanks for all the replies.
  7. What strength peroxide are you suggesting? 6% and 12% seem most common.
  8. I'm just starting an original Hornet restoration, my first proper restoration. The wheels have yellowed. Any good tips for getting these white again? I was weary of using bleach, as I don't know what effect that might have on the aging plastics. I did search the forums...but, Hornet and wheels, are ridiculously common terms to search for.
  9. I try to use servos with a metal output shaft for this very reason. Too many times I've had horns come loose and pull the threads out of an otherwise good servo. It is very annoying. 🙄 Metal gear servos usually have metal output shafts but not always. I now use the Alturn hi torque servo. For most applications it is ideal. About £17. They also do high speed and ultra high torque variants. The Tamiya 51000 is my go to servo saver.
  10. Schumacher vee4 tyres with tubby blue inserts transform the handling. Vee2 tyres with the same inserts on the front work well too.
  11. Side cutters, craft knife, JIS screwdriver(Philip's will do in a pinch), lexan curved scissors, paint(must be lexan compatible), Steering servo, transmitter and receiver, charger, batteries. Those are the essential items. Worthy upgrades are... ball bearings and a steel pinion. The soft alloy pinions tamiya provides don't last too well. The bearings reduce wear and improve performance and also offer longer run times from your batteries. As for the batteries, I would suggest the nickel-metal hydride type to start with. They are easier to deal with for a newcomer and far less hazardous. Lithium polymer batteries offer better performance, but need careful treatment to be reliable and safe. Other than that a nice cosy well lit area to work and a steady flow of tea and biscuits. Happy building!
  12. I ordered my steel pinions from CPE. I couldn't find any in the UK.
  13. If that gets rere'd, I'm having one. If only....come on T. Post apocalyptic rere, Bear Hawk 2037.
  14. No Tamiya stuff...but rc related... Fixed my combat glider... And fitted a 3500kv combo in my FTX Outlaw...
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