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Bromley

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Everything posted by Bromley

  1. Nail varnish remover or white spirit should shift it.
  2. It looks fantastic, with all the pitching and rolling on a flat surface. But will it work on bumpy ground? Will it react like like a coil sprung suspension? I'm not talking 3ft in the air bashing, but, nice scale movement over uneven "scale" ground.
  3. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Greenstik-Materials-Pinstripes-Detailing-Pinstripe/dp/B00PK3M5T6?th=1 Just found these on Amazon, they're based in Yorkshire. They have a proper website too.
  4. I agree with markbt73, good light is of much more benefit than any form of magnification. Bright light gets the pupils closed down, much improving the eyes depth of field.
  5. You will have to bind all 5 RXs to the new TX. Then you can lend a mate a car and not worry about interference.
  6. Blue, they are the hardest compound, so the occasional thrash on tarmac won't destroy them in 5 minutes.
  7. For general bashing duties I'd like to recommend a DT03T Aqroshot, but use the stock wheels fitted with Schumacher Vee2 front tyres and Vee4 rears. These are a nice combination, I use these on my Blitzer Beetle. The kit tyres are road biased. But useful if you get another set of wheels, have an on road set and save the knobblies for the dirt.
  8. Looking good. Spray painting with aerosols is an art in itself. It takes time to build confidence. Once you have good colour built up, maybe 3 or 4 light coats, it's time to get a nice wet coat on. Getting this wet coat right is what can make or break a rattle can paint job. Too little and it still looks dry and patchy, too much and your faced with runs and sags in your paint. Get the balancing act right and you'll have lovely shiny smooth paint that needs minimal attention.
  9. Got some more done on my Schumacher Mi1v2 race car. Good quality kit, but lacks something compared to a Tamiya build. Impressive, but not nearly as much fun. Hopefully it will deliver a much better drive than my current TT02 stock tourer. Going into the Modified class with a 3500kv combo. It's gonna shift.😁
  10. I like it and don't feel cheap at all....it just screams Tamiya. I'm in the middle of a Schumacher Mi1v2 build and although it is precise and slop free, it just isn't Tamiya enough. Too much final fit and finish by the end user. With Tamiya the design dictates the final product. However inept the builder. You can't build a tamiya badly. The Schumacher just doesn't do it for me, even though it's technically a better vehicle.
  11. I can see that in heavy metal flake purple, slammed to the floor. I needed a good excuse to add an M chassis to the collection.
  12. That Comical Avanti has caught my interest. Can't imagine when or where I might run it, but it looks great. The Terra Scorcher is nice, but I still want, no.... need, a Boomerang. So I'll pass. The Karmann Ghia is stunning. Want one, just to sit it on the shelf and look at it.
  13. That seems to me, a little pricey for an unlicensed body, looks ok mind you.I just picked up a pre-painted running body for my CC02 for £15. After spending a week painting, stickering and lighting the G500 body, I'm not about to bash it up on the trails. Here's a Toyota/Nissan-esque body for a lot less... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Absima-Crawler-Body-CB006-313mm-2410069/254477131619?epid=3019139544&hash=item3b4004df63:g:qVYAAOSwTZ9eGCt4
  14. The running video is without portals. No effort was made to connect the steering while the front axle was mocked up with the portals. Servo on axle would be my first choice in this scenario. I think it's doable, but only if you use two front axles with a rear lockout. Obviously you could in theory go four wheel steering, if you can mount up a servo. Unless there is some reduction available in the fitting of portals, I'm not sure it's worth the effort. Larger diameter tyres are a much easier option with similar gains. And you don't get the very un-scale track width increase.
  15. I would say yes, nominally 6mm. The across faces measure is usually the 1st size listed then the width. It can be another pit of oblivion, a bit like wheels and tyres, when there are no absolute measurements given by some sellers. I bought some aluminium hexes a little while back and had to mill 1mm of the face to get the fit I was after. Ok if you have a milling machine, but a bit of a bind if not.
  16. I use Dean's connectors so the Tamiya piggyback connector had to go. In the end I just took power from the rx for the light unit. I have a short lead comming out of the rx box in to a JST socket and I've soldered a JST plug on to the light unit power lead. All works nicely and there's no nasty mess of cables looking at me though the windows.
  17. I have a WP1080 in my cc02. I am over the moon with its performance. But I don't really know what the internal BEC is for and how to access it properly. Is it the same socket as the programming port? If it is, can I use the programming port to power a Tamiya TLU-01 lighting unit? I'm terrified if I connect it up incorrectly I'll let the smoke out! The instructions talk about the ESC having a BEC, but no information on how it works or when to use it.
  18. Euro Truck Challenge uses Torque Tuned motors.😉
  19. Most of the big wheeled vehicles will do nicely for a garden basher. My favourites are Lunchbox, Pumpkin, Blackfoot, Blitzer Beetle and Wild Willy. The Lunchy has the most durable body. Clod is brilliant but a lot more expensive and needs some mods to be truly fun. For the price of a Clod you could get a Lunchy and Pumpkin for the kids. Then when your fatherly duties have been fulfilled and you've seen their beaming smiles, treat yourself to a Clod.
  20. 1st rule of Tamiya Club: Always take more than one vehicle out with you, in case of breakage.
  21. I miss the old rc mags.☹
  22. For £200...I'd probably go with a brushless FTX Carnage on 2S or if you could stretch a little the Arrma Senton 3S is a nice bit of kit.
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