holyhope
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Posts posted by holyhope
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Hi Willy!.
Thanks for info! No my Pajerino is drying at sun! In a few hour I will clean with humid scottex and clean bearing.
One last thing it is not good yet... Cale between motor and ESC! Esc is TMiya TBLE02s and motor is sensore gool rc
In motor there is a strange connector... How could fix compatibility? Change ESC connectior or motor? Motor is very hard to desolder... And what type of connector I can use?
See photo!
Thanks
Massimiliano
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****!!! You are right.... but it is tu funny!!
Here some new photo! Today Dirt track! Eheh! Asap a video of today!
But one question.. How to wash? I clean body Shell with shower water! The chassis, with all Electronics... Idem because I not have better idea... I pull out battery before. My receiver and servo are marine version so are waterproof! I hope ESC too... I will wait many hours before attach battery
Meanwhile I wait to buy a new RC ahah
And here is the video!
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Hi Willy! Ok many thanks! Now I have just replaced the screw... If they will came out I will use screw As you suggest!
For new RC type have you son idea with info I Toldo you before?
Thanks Massimiliano
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Hi!
I solve the problem uscing a bigger screw... the old (and original) are not good anymore.... The hole in true is not good...
So Now it is working good!
Now I'm thinking about next RC eheh! I see previous advice of Willy and slash 4x4 is what I want! A very fast RC and able to go to off road!
I want something very fast (maybe without motor, I can buy a custom motor after) maybe an onroad car but it is too limited.. so maybe something "bit" off road is better! I NOT WANT SOMETHING HIGH THAT FLIP UP AT EVERY SHORT STEERING!!! like my cc01 but something very stable and very near to earth (very near as need for not flip up but that can be go on offroad).
My pajero could be a bit a scaler... i want something similar to slash or rally or similar... maybe slash is too high....
Slash is too expensive... something more chiper... please! cost like my cc01 or similar (about 200€ finished with remote and servo) or a bit less eheh
are good the tamiya like boomerang plasma bigwig etcetera but are there enough high to run in a dust or small offroad?
thanks
Massimiliano
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Hi to all! Thanks for your answer
5 hours ago, Backlash said:Logic suggests that of the 3 motor wires coming out of the ESC, the middle one "should" be the "B" phase... Likewise, the middle connection on the motor "should" also be the "B" phase.. Then it should just be a matter of identifying the other two phases...
Have you tried using another sensor cable off a different model that you know works OK.?
I have not had the opportunity or need to do any fault finding on a Brushless system, so it is hard to comment on what testing you can do.. You may be able to do some basic continuity testing on the sensor cable itself with a multimeter, but if you try to do it on the ESC, you could do some damage by introducing stray voltages where they are not meant to go.....
The pinouts for a sensor cable are as follows.. (You can see that pins 2, 3 & 4 correspond to the A, B & C phase going to the motor)
Pin #1 – black wire, ground potential (minus)
Pin #2 – orange wire, sensor phase C
Pin #3 – white wire, sensor phase B
Pin #4 – green wire, sensor phase A
Pin #5 – blue wire, motor temperature sensing, 10 k NTC
(other end of sensor is on ground potential, pin #1)
Pin #6 – red wire, sensors feeding, +5.0 V ± 10%.
(supply voltage for sensors provide controller, don´t connect external voltage !)
That information was found here... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1614786-Brushless-Sensored-Motor-Standard-PinoutYes I try with another sensor cable and problem still persist.
I try the motor (and sensor cable) with TBLE-02s (tamiya original ESC) and work very good without any problem (with this tamiya ESC if cable have problem, motor do not start to run and ESC go in faut condition)
Continuity testing, if performed without any power, 99% should not damage products because current use to test continuity is very low compared to maximum breakout reverse current (at least.... I supposed it! In my experiency all works right in this way!)
Thanks very mutch for explanation of pinout of sensor cable, I not supposed it have this function... I always supposed are something different... Why duplicate phase A,B and C??? Maybe for have feedback and verify any distortion? Mmmm.... So the only important info is the temperature with a resistive sensore temperature NTC10k ....
2 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:I have had a couple of issues with ESC's, not sure if they will help.
The first was the ESC needed calibrating to the Tx. This was a Trackstar setup. It was such a pain to do, took me ages but once I got it done it has worked fine ever since. Prior to getting it done it behaved how I've been told a sensorless would behave, a lot of cogging at low speed, but also would do random things like take off when you weren't expecting it etc. Funnily enough some of these symptoms are the same as a faulty sensor cable, so I tried that too but it was the calibration.
The other was without a sensor cable my Speed Passion ESC/motor combo would run but very slowly. Yes, I forgot to plug in the sensor cable in my rush to try out the new toy. I was so disappointed with Speed Passion, until I realised my mistake. I was surprised that it ran at all.
So, the link says that its sensored/sensorless but I wonder if it really is? Is it SkyRC or Gool RC since the link says its both? I've never had either but I thought the Gool RC is sensorless, but the SkyRC is sensored. If it works without the cable is it running at the speed you would expect? It may be a sensored motor (since it runs on TBLE02S) with a sensored/sensorless capable ESC in sensorless mode?
Very interesting the calibrating issues... How you calibrate your esc? I suppose motor not need to be calibred because if I attach my motor to other ESC work very very very right (or maybe is not this the problem in my specific case)
I have another motor brushless to test and it is a gool RC and it is sensored (otherwise will not work with my TBLE-02s) and works very good with TBLE-02s and have the same identical problem like other motor if I connect to SkyRc ESC.
Note that: If I disconnect sensor cable from SkyRc ESC all motor works well. If I use senosr cable and reproduce problem , so i place motor in the condition that not turn anymore neither forward neither backward, if I disconnect cable the motor magical start to work. I suppose because ESC recognise that sensor cable il not still present and start a regulation without feedback of sensor, so work right!
thanks,
Massimiliano
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Hi
I just try ALL possible combination and no one work better the original one... in other setting the motor or not work or turn very with a bad bad bad sound... the only way to work correctly is in the way as writed ...
but the problem is still present... There is a way to debug the sensor with a multimeter or it is possible only with an oscilloscope?
thanks
Massimiliano
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Hi backslash!
thanks for your answer! I 'm sorry for link... I forget that it is needed login before see products... I'm sorry!
Here there is a link on amazon: https://www.amazon.it/GoolRC-Brushless-Sensored-Sensorless-programma/dp/B01CNMJZNK I hope it could work for this purpose! It is the only SkyRc conmbo kit motor 8.5T 4MV (4000KV) and ESC brushless with fan and ALL orange
I not know how motor work exactly... I suppose that the brushed work with + and - commandend in PWM or voltage increase and decrease. The brushlesss i supposed works like home (industrial...) 380V tri-phase so each of A B or C has a sinusoidal function offset of 120^ from each other. In this way is difficult from me understanding how it works without sensor cable (without destroy the motor or giving it a lot of jerks).
this evening I will try to check if there is a wrong serigraph of letter A, B and C inside the ESC and try to connect in a right way... If all serigraph is right I try to revert phase random untill all will works right
many thanks
Massimiliano-
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Hi Blacklash
First of all thaks for your answer.
I connect right color between motor and ESC... are in the same kit so i supposed color for A in motor is the same color of A in the ESC ... But maybe they made a mistake and connect wrong sensor.... but in this way the problem must apply only with this motor and not if I use the esc with another motor (problematic ESC with a good motor ----> problem present)
Maybe there is a problem inside circuite ESC but I verify on connect and it is good....
someone have internal electroinich schematic of circuite? so i can debug it...
Thanks
Massimiliano
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Hi to all!
I have a SkyRc sensored ESC with brushless sensored 8.5T motor. Is this: https://geek.wish.com/search/sky rc esc motor sensored brushless#cid=575eb6fcaec374609c9b1513
I have a problem starting from the first turn on!
In some position (exactly the same) the motor do not turn in front but can only turn reverse, in other one position is completly stop neither front or reverse.
I test the same motor with another ESC (Tamiya TBL02) and work right
I test another motor with the ESC skyrc and problem is still present
I test same kit (motor and esc skyrc) without sensor cable and works right
i test with another sensor cable and still not work
So I suppose it is defecting the ESC.
I disassembly ESC and with multimeter I verify connection from all wire of sensor of the cable inside the circuite of ESC and all wire are good...
So the problem could be inside circuite of ESC or maybe on configuration. I try several modality of punch, timing, reverse, etc. but no one with success...
Someone have this combo ESC and motor? Someone can give me info about this problem? Can I try something to repair or adjust esc?
thanks
Massimiliano
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Hi Willy
Ok thanks! Now I search something and I will think on it... maybe i will change maybe not... I need to know if there is a real big improve of performance...
Massimilkiano
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Hi Willy!
I have performed a very little test! I attach a LiFe 9.9V fully charged (10.8V with my iMax B6) and compared to NiCd (Yes NiCd NOT NiMh.... I was wrong before...) fully charged to about 14v (With my iMax b6.... arrived to this voltage!!!) . I try to flip up and hear the sound of wheel with this two different battery... I can't do a test on road because LiFe battery is to high... is more short but it is too high ****!
On my personal opnion the wheel are running faster with NiCd!!! Maybe is because fully charged it reash more voltage...
If I want to change motor for getting faster... what motor I must buy? a motor for Mini4WD is compatible? A softair motor could be compatibe (example:
) ???
Or there is some cheap to buy? Solder and desolder is not a problem for me.
Maybe I can put a good battery and a new motor and improve durable (for hour plays without recharge battery) and speed... only if it is a cheap modify otherwise I preferre buy a very good and compatitive RC and keep that only for bodysheel and exposition eheh
thanks
Massimiiano
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HiHi you are right... Here the new upload:
Meanwhile I discover that my screw on cover motor are not good (The hole for screw is too big now). So Gear lift a bit and no transmission to rear..
I must fix.... But how? New screw of a big size? Or there is another way?
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Hi bad news
I Lost one metal bearing (that is not bearing in True but it is one that is not present in optional bearing but exist only metal) is the BA10 located on the Gear that transmit Power from front to rear with transmission axle.. Is the Gear that you can unscrew from bottom
Where i can buy it?
Thanks
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Hi Willy
maybe you are right! Are NiCd, in true are 8x AA so it is better think that are NiCd and not NiMh....
I can buy (in true I already have) a LiFe battery 9.9V... can maybe use that? it is similar like power and it is very strong like discharge C! On my Pajero Tamiya I use LiPo 7.4
thanks
Massimiliano
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Hi!
I made it! I repaired! The problem is on the resistor (or inductior maybe) between motor and negative pole that not work proprely... I bypass it and RC start to go very well! it is very slowly compared to my Pajero (with slow motor and LiPo 7.4v) but it works! I suppose the component I bypassed is a protection on breaking and maybe could damage in a long time the internal RC circuite but... I buy it only for use few time so I can leave as is!
Only one info: I need to replace battery because it is the original NiMh 9.6v and it is very poor of power and I can use my rc only for less then 10 minute!!! When I recharge it (I use iMax B6) its max charge was of only less then 400 mAh... I want to replace with a LiPo 7.4 (2s) , in your opinion it is ok this battery for this old and entrlylevel circuite? LiPo 3s (11.1v) I nevet think on it but if LiPo 2s are optimal what you thing of LiFe 3s (are 9.9v).??? I play at softair game so I have many battery but I not want to damage my just repaired car!
thanks Massimiliano
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Oh ****! I supposed it will be protected from reverse current! If you put a car in down hill she generate current from motor, so it is logical that the engineers have protected the ESC... But I'm wrong.. If I was one of the developer i never permetted reverse current to burn it! So it is a very bad engineering ... This is my personal opinion....
thanks Massimiliano
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willy, seriously, you're omniscent of the RC world! Exactly my model is that! maybe is not very old as I supposed!
Yes yes yes I tell you that the better thing is to keep all as it is and maybe in future buy a new chassis (maybe 4wd)
I try do disassembly the rear traction... the motor works fine because (i not desolder the wire) but I give it some voltage and it start running! So the problem is another way... I hope I not break anything putting directly voltage to the motor, without cutting wire... Now, after reassemble, the motor no work anymore... maybe I have damged the power output of the circuite board... ****!
But a strange thing occours: when I press throlette or the trim to throlette the steering move a bit... like receiver is missunderstanding info (or remote is sending wrong info...) it is very strange...
Your explanation it is very complete but it is hard to understand for me now and i'm in hurry.... this evening or tomorrow I will read with more attention and document on web... Sorry! wait some hours!
thanks Massimiliano
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Hi to all!
I'm here to write for show you my last buy (ok, maybe it is not and affairs for you but for me it is enough for me). I suppose I'm in a correct section due the old age of my rc BUT I'm not sure if it very old as require this section and, in truth, I not know how it is old... I describe it and take photo, if it is too young for this section can you move another way? And I will be sorry for miss the correct section :-( Sorry...
So the RC it is Mercedes CLK DTM 2002 with the screw instead the bodypost and have a very old style circuit. Only rear traction, front wheel are only neutral. I have some problem (i buy only for collect without any racing purpose) and I need some info for know a piece of story like that.
I buy all togheder, remote, car, shell, servo, motor ecc... I suppose it is a complete kit sell as is by tamiya,
I have (eheh many user maybe know my other RC and hate me!) a cc01 Pajero with Carson remote servo receiver and a 17.5T motor (and a new 27T motor with ESC of SkyRc that I'm not using), With this RC I have no problem for control that but with the Mercedes is impossible! Some time the car not reveive the command for go ahead or break (steering ALWAYS work fine) and it is impossible to set , by trim on remote, a correct "dead band" to leave car stop (if you move a bit this trim the car start to go ahead or backside...), Some time I kickdown the threolette on remote and car not response... I move steer keeping down throlette and start do go ... Boh! I not understand!
My first idea is to replace the ESC and motor with my 27T that is unused but when I open It I see a discrete circuite that I never see before!
Can sameone tell me how to solve the remote problem and if it is possible to change all elevtronic with a new one? (or maybe it is a very bad idea change internal vinitage circuite with a new one....)
thanks
Massimiliano
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Wow Andy! Very fantastic! I have choosed to trim new hole on back of my Pajero and flip up my rear body post!
I have Mount all bearing and put grase in all position! Both in front and rear diff I put my strong grease for Lock a bit (but not complete) the diff!
I have Mount the hex extender... Maybe will be more stable in this way! Ahah
Here there is the result!
edit: I forget to say!!! I buy another RC. Other then Pajero i have a Mercedes CLK black and I buy a very old pieces of story, this one used (only 60€), I buy the Tamiya CLK DTM 2002 old will still the screw instead clip for bodyshell. I will made a dedicated post for that. It is only for have an economic rc identical to mine (my it is NOT amg version but ... at least it is black ahah! the color is identical ahah)
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Hi Willy! Wow fantastic pic and very explaned!
This eavening I will close my rear axle and,after see this pic, I have stimed 8 bearing: 2 con the axle with the gear connected to transmission (one big near transmission and one smaller near diff) and three for each axle: one big at external, one smoller near the previously bearing and one like in photo near diff.
I have already put some grease (specific for this purpose) insie ALL the chassis of axle for increas moving and between gear of transmission and differential. I put a lot of grease inside bearing and long the axle. Inside the diff I place a grease down the gear and between gear (where there will be moving if one wheel slip) I try to place some grease that I says before very string. If it will be a bad solution I will reopen and change grease!
edit: I attach 2 pic: the first one is with the grase that I use for lock a bit diff and the second is my diff just I have disassembled (is present the lock diff yet). You can see here, for each axle, 2 plastic bearing that I will change with real bearing and one small metal fixed bearing that I will change with real bearing; you can see the small axle for transmission, there is only one plstic bearing that I will change with real one and another metal bearing (fixed, without ball) that I will change with real one. So in total 5 plastic bearing (2 left axle, 2 right axe, 1 transm axle) and 3 metal bearing (one for each axle) will be sobstituted with 8 real ball bearing (5 bigger sobstituting the plasting and 3 smaller sobstituting the metal). With your very good photo and my... Now I have undestand (I hope!!!!) Correctly where place ball bearing! Thanks!
Ok! I will keep you informed!
thanks
Massimiliano
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On 18/4/2018 at 3:35 AM, WillyChang said:
Yes.
When you replace all the kit bushings with ballbearings, you'll have spare 3x 850s and many 1150s
The backside of the diff (screws end) there is space to slip in 1x 850 & 1x 1150 between the diff case and the new ballbearing.
It's just extra support. Some say it prevents the bevels from chewing out; I've never killed a diff yet but I do it anyway. (Gotta upcycle those bushings!)
The other 2x 850s I stuff them into the centre shaft... there's a perfect hole each end right where the universal joint screws to. They do a good job of keeping grit out of the 1150 ballbearing, mine almost never needs cleaning after that.
I'm assembly bearing! do you have a photo about the position of extra bearing? now I'm here!
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Ahah
Not ugly! the body sheel will, I suppose, cover your work! So ugly or not is not visible and it is a very good job (Very good anyway, if it will visible, too!).
You have made it with a 3d printer, isn't it? So with a caliber you have measured the old bodypost and printed! Yea!
Meanwhile I talk to you one bad (or good!) idea: I want to try to increase stability of my CC01.... So I want to open diff rear and put an hex extender +20mm to the wheel. For the second part it is all ok, I hope, for the first I have a bad (or maybe good) idea! I read that some RC high end, like traxxas or similar, have rear diff sealed where you can put inside oil or strong grease to have an half way between open and closed diff!
Ok, I have a strong grease at my home that I use for agricoltural.... I use that for my tractor or agricoltural machinary... It is very strong and it use it is as lubriicant but in my cc01 chassis maybe can help rear diff open to get same torque when one wheel slip!
what you think of my idea?
thanks
Masssimiliano
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How! How you made it!
Where you buy?
D a m n! Now I must buy...
Info for new wheel for my CC01 Pajero
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
Hi to all!
I have solder three cable and three connector... IT IS ONLY A TEMPORARY WORK!!! I have order both single and complete cable
Kit is herE: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/3pcs-lot-300mm-30cm-3-5mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-RC-Brushless-Motor-ESC-Connectors-Extension-Cable/32817561223.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.88Usk9 I must cut to keep only part with male connector and solder to my motor
separated cable are here: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/ZTOYL-1-M-Calibro-14-AWG-Heatproof-Silicone-Morbido-Gel-di-Silice-Wire-Connect-Cable-Per/32839477966.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Gc94Q0 but I have not connector colored... ****! I have buyied all three color orange yellow blue
So when all arrive i will cut the pre connected connector and solder to my motor or realize three new cable from spare cable and use my connector (red colored.... I have only that...)
Here attach a photo of my temporary work....
thanks Massimiliano