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holyhope

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Posts posted by holyhope

  1. Hi, my beadlock have ring inside and outside. I hope they will work right when will arrive the offset for wheel!

    I have glued only my big tyre. The tyre with beadlock I have NO glued.. in your opinion I must glue it too? I suppose the tyre didn't go out from wheel but maybe the tyre can slip around wheel without glue...

     

    Finally I have painted and apply sticker (Oh come on! There are no pre-cut!..) and attach there are the result! The version with original wheel and the version with big wheel and the bodyshell upper then normal!

    Thanks,

    Massimiliano

    29791936_10215686029169231_5761552630594445850_n.jpg

    29683197_10215686026009152_7009823171558314097_n.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Hi 

    ****! But in reality maybe could be what I want.... I mean, I want something between the original (540 silver i suppose) and the SkyRc faster (now I Mount this one) , so this could be! Maybe when i learn to drive well an RC I will understand why is better a motor that go slower (now I can't understand because the only data better is the Torque, that it is IMHO sufficient in 8.5T too) maybe you can explain me? Sorry I'm very new at this world! 

    Can I ask you some info in your previously answer? 

    18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    Those beadlock wheels don't work.

    Why? You are telling to me that the tyre will ho out from the wheel anyway? 

     

    18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    No real benefit for brushless, brushed works fine for CC01 with less complications

    Ok sorry I don't know exactly the benefit of each other, what Kind of complication could be with a brushless motor? On my study I learn that a brushless is more durable maybe I'm wrong. 

     

    18 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    Most ppl want slower motors like 45/55/70turn to make it a crawler.

    Ppl what it means? 

    Why for a crawler it is needed a motor with this characteristics? 

     

    Sorry for my english... I write As good As I can but I understand that it is not perfect! Eheh

    Thanks 

    Massimiliano 

  3. hi

    thanks you!

    I already buy this wheel.... I read in description that are compatible with cc01 but it isn't true. I have just ask a refound.

    For extender, yes I buy it! They will arrive...

    For motor, OK! I never know that there are motors at 50 and over Turns!

    Yes original is just fast ad need. the other one is TOO fast. I hope with the motor in arrive (17.5 T) , already buy, will be in the middle. You are right... maybe will be a bad buy

    thanks!

    Massimiiano

  4. Hi to all! 

    I have just ordered the complete bearing and dogbone like in your photo! 

    bearing: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/TAMIYA-CC01-FULL-SET-OF-BEARINGS-18PCS/32724680072.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

    dogbone:  https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-RC-Part-Metal-Universal-Driven-Dogbone-Drive-Shaft-CC01-For-1-10-Scale-Models-TAMIYA/32815919650.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg

    I have  bad news! Yesterday arrived my 1.9" tyre but not fit ****! I'm Waiting the hex of 25mm maybe with that they will fit! 

    my 1.9" tyre that not fit: https://geek.wish.com/c/5793866b5c394f784bb53ba8

    my big 2.2 tyre: https://geek.wish.com/c/56a5e91f7fcde10de1a2cb81

    my wheel hex: https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg&orderId=505574923288804&productId=32842665220  (grey color version)

    I olso buy a new motor a brushless sensored motor with 17.5 T. 

    motor: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1-box-Hobbywing-QUICRUN-3650-Sensored-G2-6-5T-8-5T-10-5T-13-5T-17/32820318285.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BnIJgg  (17.5T version)

    I have buyed a SkyRc motor 8.5T with his ESC and programmer but I now know that was not a good type for offroad some month ago when I buyed it... 

    actual high speed motor: https://geek.wish.com/c/5695b3d9ae8c934e3fc7bcd5

    What do you think of my choice? 

    Thanks 

    Massimiliano 

    P_20180328_154636_vHDR_Auto.jpg

  5. Hi all!

     ok now understand how works, ok now it is all correct eheh!

    For RC... ARE ALL FANTASTIC!! The Trx4 is fantastic but how cost? I see 500€!!!

    I found the similar defender D90 but it is very expensive too (

    The Tamiya 6wd is very fantastic, I love it! ahah

    Now I must evaluate my budget! eheh

    edit: I discover a wonderfull thing!!! The TRX4 have differential that are possible locking with remote! It is very wonderfull!!! There any other RC with this function? wow!

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  6. Hi thanks for your answer!

    TA03 is another type of chassis, Am I correct? It seems a chassis for racing car on road

    Ok my CVD are specular, the one you post are circular to one side. maybe in this way can allow better steering angle

    For CVA I suppose to keep my original or, at least, as suggest to change only the plastic bars for rear suspension.

     

    Ok, one last info: For my Pajero project I will stop here for modify. If I want an RC for very very bad off-road what kind I must buy? maybe a 6wd? or a RC withour front indipendent suspensions? can you tell me some RC (or chassis) that are the best for offroad and customization?

     

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  7. Ahahah!

    I understand! Yes it is true... sometime the steering is too short! And for increase it the dogbones must modify or traction, at high angle, not work and jerking!

    I, in really, limit with my controller, the steering because I have very several problem steering at "high" speed... there isn't a way to limit steering dinamical? maybe my remote is too sensible eheh!

    Ok, on the next buy... I will buy bearings and dogbones and nothing else (no suspension or other....)

    An advice how to know if a new dogbones is good or not for this purpose? i must watch the length?

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  8. 8 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

    GPM steering rack look here http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/09/tamiya-cc-01-unimog-upgrades-installation/3/

    P1050778.jpg

     

    CVDs are universal driveshafts to replace your "dogbones"

    gpm-scc245-2.jpg

    Stock dogbones cannot turn such a big angle like when you remove the angle limiters on the c-hub & the steering knuckle is able to turn more.

    P1050794.jpg

     

    CVA is just what Tamiya calls their plastic shock absorbers. :) you can buy Tamiya "TRF" alloy dampers but the plastic CVAs can work very well when built correctly. They work better than most of the cheap China alloy shockers... most aren't worth buying.

    50520.jpg

     

    Hi thanks for your answer.

    Ok now understand what CVD are! And I will not change with aftermarket, for now. I will change only for buy a more higher but with the front suspension system is not possible without change all system

    For GPM steering rack ok ok understood!

    For CVD I understand what they are but I not understand very well why change it....  For how reason increase steering? in my RC the I limited the steering with remote, unless it flip up to down when steer!!! Maybe this CVD are usefull more long if I want to modify the IFS for rise a bit the car but, IMHO is not usefull increase the steering (I'm new on the RC world so there could be many reason that I not know)

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  9. Hi

    O advice requested: for limit steering there is a function con my remote CARSON so I not need to modify anything. BUT my RC is always un stable... My RC, when I perform a steering, many many many Times she flip overturned (on one side or with wheel upper)... I limit steering but I can't limit anymore... What I can do? (either improve my pilot ability ahah) 

    There is a way to dinamical limit steering? I means a way to improve steering limitation when Speed increase? 

    My Solution with remote or your with mechanical modify, I suppose, limit steering in the same way at all Speed, (am I correct?) 

    Thanks 

    Massimiliano 

  10.  

    Hi! Thanks for your answer! There is something that I have no understand.... but i will ask you later. Before all what I understand is that bearing is a good thing and modify suspension not or is not usefull at all....

    I not understand what mean the abbrevations "CVD" and "CVA" and I not understand why I must reduce steering and how to do it.. I quote all that here:

    2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    If you want tighter steering lock... I install the GPM alloy steering rack with ballbearing shaft (you need to build it properly though, it's not simply bolt-in easy), CVD axles & shave the nubs off the c-hubs that limit steering angle. 

    just build the CVA shocks properly.

    Thanks,

    Massimiliano

  11. Thanks you! So I'm safe!!! Eheeh

    if I will have problem I can cut a piece of Alluminium and join the body post or the rear body post (not know name... it is maybe chassis tub.told before!???)

    Now my "rising up" is done! rising the bodyshell not chassis!

    I know that this will not be a very car for competiotion or race but i choose that because I love very mutch Pajero!

    In your opinion what I can do for "a bit" upgrade it? I'm thinking to buy;

    - Complete kit of bearing... Can be usefull or it a wast of money?

    - Wheel offset... In reallity I have just buy... are arriving... I buy a 12mm offset

    And there are other thing that I have seen but i not know if coulb be usefull

    -suspension... can be usefull?!!?!?!?!? If I buy a more long suspension I will have problme on front because are indipendent suspension.... mauby I must buy a complete kit of front suspension (suspension and all plastic, buing metal instead, that join to chassis) and a complete kit for rear suspension (suspension plus more long bar)-.... but could be usefull? As told before in this way I rise my center of weight and will be more instable (and just now it flup up to down very frequently using my RC!)

    - steering: there is a kit in metal for sobstitute actual plastic steering system... can be usefull? (it is the part that is connected to the servo motor)

    - motor... we talk about it another time... I have 2 other motor then original and another ESC... With the battery maybe we can speak another time ahha

     

    Thanks you!

    Massimiliano

  12. Ok, now I have filed with the drimmedthe chassis... I will send a photo asap.

    Meanwhile I ask an info: there are spare part for rear differential and front axle to move out the tire? 

    I have take a photo of the instruction for the original part, I will post here in a few time.... I'm asking if there are part similar to original but more longe

    (waiting photo maybe you can understand me: are that part where wheel is connected to the RC that is, in front, a screw and in the bottom two axle that end in differential)

     

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  13. hi to all.

    Thanks for your answer.

    Chris how I can rise the body???? I try to move the "inser" for bottom from lower to upper but in front there is no a way to rise more... maybe I need I more high rods... Do you have a guide or video or simply a photo how to rise body in car similar to mine?

    Willy thanks... for now I prefore to not cut the body... I want to keep it as is! Ok I can perform a very little modify but I prefore to no cut anything for now....

    14 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    lexan body Pajero is easier than hardbody Pajero MetaltopWide to jack up... you could get different mount for rear or just flip them over to the top of the chassis tub. Front bodymounts can move up a notch or 3; put on a new pair if you've cut them too short.

     

    maybe this is what I mean before... but how I can rise the front? i must use a clip up and bottom the shell?

    thanks

    Massimiliano

  14. Hi to all!

    I need some information! I have a CC01 Pajero Rally (the grey version, not the black and low version).

    I use a carson remote + servo.

    I use the blocked differential mode 

    i use the RC for exposition and, when I use it, only for off road (to tell you the true i have a real Pajero 2003 grey with black wheel, very identical to this RC)

    Now I buy a 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) black with maximum size 2.2" (I measure and are 10.8 cm of diameter) but there are too big because the bodyshell do not fit and when suspension is all compress the wheel touch the chassis. This wheel are very pretty and I will keep it but I buy another kit of 4 wheel (wheel rim and Tire) that have size, extimated, of 1.9" . this wheel is not yet arrived but I suppose that size MAYBE fit in my car without touching chassis (but maybe the bodysheel still can't used).

    I'm thinking to rise my RC like in real car (my real car has a +5" kit) for a better (in my opinion) aesthetic appearances and can fit big wheel.

    I not know if it is possible and I'm writing here for ask you that: Is possible to rise my RC pajero gray CC01 chassis? if yes can you link me the kit to buy or the spare part?

    thanks

    Massimiliano

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