JeffSpicoli

Curious if anyone has had issues applying MCI tire decals? I'm trying MCI's Sand Blaster tire decals for my BRAT, I looked around to see how others did it. One YouTube I watched, the person just pressed them on, that was it. From what I recall, the last time I did it, I used a hairdryer and it seemed to work. I did not dullcote or anything like that. I'm trying again with brand new tires. I cleaned them. Dabbed dry with microfiber. Just pressing them on isn't working at all. I then applied HOT setting from a hair dryer expecting them to heat up a little bit, and take. Nothing. Very weird. I really want to avoid painting them if I can, but if I can't get the decals to take, I will have to go back at them with the fine point paint marker. I almost considered trying the waterslide method and trying my microset and microsol. I may try that for the badword of it. I have nothing to lose at this point. Thanks!

I would love to see a video of this.....I'm going to check YouTube....someone else must be doing this. How you pull this off is a marvel.

Very interesting and good tips so far. I have def done the sandpaper spray can thing before or a sanding sponge. The tape idea I like a lot, never thought to do that to help better guide cutting, same with a fine tip black Sharpie, that would also do wonders. I do have the Tamiya scissors which I normally use. I agree with changing blades - you have to do it often so you can cut easily and a dull blade is much more dangerous. I use to use a hanger or other devices to hang the body for drying and sometimes painting - that's why I left the excess lexan on the body shell. But I now how a stand, so no more need for that. I do also understand why peole cut mounting holes before painting - another tip for those who might not do it. Cutting the body first is also nice because once you're done painting the annoying task of body trimming is out of the way.

I've never tried score and snap and just really thought about it after watching a build video on YouTube. A lot of habits I have not changed since teenage years of building. Just habit and never having major problems. I know I'm in the minority - but I never trim my bodies until after paint. I know most like to trim the body up then paint. But anyone find any issues or have any tips for using "score and snap"? I'm sure this technique eats up blades faster from all of the use. If you use score and snap what types of blades do you prefer? The YouTuber I was watching likes to use a regular razor blade, handheld, def not the route I will go. I plan on trying a new Xacto knife.

Off and running. Hit my open areas with a light sanding with Tamiya sandpaper. Which also made it easier to see what I wanted painted. Good verification. Now PS5, tomorrow Flat Clear.

This looks really good.

Interesting to note. I'm still going to use some fine grit sandpaper on these areas on the exterior before hitting it. I just need to get m hands on the flat clear now. In hindsight I wish I would have painted the rollbars on the inside, and then hit then exterior in flat clear. But it's a lesson for next time.

Funny you mention that, I was thinking about that and am going to test that at some point on a project. Buying some sort of matte vinyl decal paper in black and cutting it around the areas I'd like to cover. I could see some def advantages to that especially flaking though this will be a shelf queen.

Good info as usual. Since I'm doing model railroad stuff, I think it's time for me to learn how to use an airbrush as it can give superior results for a lot of things. I don't mind spraybombs for lexan shells but then I also watch people use airbrushes on lexan shells and the level of control and light coats they can achieve is incredible. And into many tight areas. I def one something compact for storage and use. I'm starting to build out my 2nd bedroom as a hobby room and if I can spray lexan indoors with a airbrush that would be a huge advantage with all the pollen in the air in this area. Def not planning to to invest hundreds to start. Just enough to see if it works for me needs or gives me any advantages. I'd like to be able to paint tighter lines or areas too like these rollbars on the RC10 body I'm working on. Not having to shake and heat up spraybombs would be nice too.

I agree with you. You def can't buy anything from Amazon that is a "unbranded" or weird name - I know those products are typically Chinese made crap. No offense to Chinese folks, but those products are mass produced Amazon dreck. I don't like using Amazon as it is even for good things given their chokehold on retail markets. I will dig into the one you mention.

It seems it might be time to move onto an airbrush.....wondering what people would recommend as a beginning airbrush set up. I know you can of course spend as much as you desire, but what did you start out with if you are using one? Is it best to buy one that has everything included or buy sep components? Thank you.

any pics possibly?

I was referring to sanding the outside surface, to help adhesion of the PS (or proper) paint. Since typically Lexan painted on the exterior will in fact crack and flake. This is a shelf queen so, that part isn't as important, but I still want to prep the surface correctly.

I've been away awhile putting my attention in an N scale train layout and am now forcing myself to get back onto the RC10 CC. I'm hoping to acheive this same look on the rollcage. What's the best way to do it? Have you done this before? My thought process: 1. New Xacto blade, on the oustide of the shell, cut into the protective film and cut out the areas I want matte black. 2. Lightly scuff these rollcage areas with some sandpaper. 3. Spray with the correct matte black - type of paint? that's the part I'm a bit unsure on as well. I know one member said he painted the black from the inside then did flat clear on the outside, but it's too late for that unfortunately with the paint splatter. Thanks! Spicoli