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Acto-Tuned

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About Acto-Tuned

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  • Birthday 09/28/1980

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  1. I understand that you're skeptical about ordering from rc4wd.com. I only bought something there once, some shocks and tires about 3years ago, and can't say anything about how his products and service are today. But you should take into consideration that this thread is several years old. I think you would get a better picture of today's part quality and service if you checked out some more scale/crawler oriented forums. ex: http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/index.php From what I read in forums it seems like a lot of his products isn't initially designed by him but more of a collaboration with other enthusiast/hobby engineers/forum users. That sort of connection could be one of the reasons why he is still popular (..if he is popular. I don't read those forums that often). I'm considering ordering the Katan F-350 Rapture chassis and some other small parts from him and I'm not too worried. Also remember that some of the stuff he makes/sells isn't available anywhere else so it's either make it your self or buy it from him. Ole
  2. You should buy one. A great way to describe them would be charming as edit: actually that word didnt pass the censorship but you get the idea. They do make some noise and the front tires dont last to long but they dont really need any option parts at all. If you only drive on large parking lots and such they might loose their appeal. But for informal racing/bashing on a small track or with friends there really isnt a better choice in my opinion. Not sure if I would have traded for one since they are so cheap. Ole
  3. If you put TL01 suspension and the FF02 extension on a M03 chassis you get a FF02. I prefer the chassis layout of the FF01 but I don't know for sure if it performs better than the FF02. The FF01 comes with a ball diff but you could buy one for the FF02. The best performance fwd rc car is probably the Yokomo YR F2 but those are hard to find and parts would be even harder to find. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...4386&id=470 The M03/FF02 uses an extension piece between the front and the rear chassis module so your choices are 210mm,225mm,239mm or 259mm wheelbase. On the FF01 you can reverse the rear suspension arms for a shorter wheelbase (used on the Clio) No
  4. I recently started rc drifting and it was more fun than I thought it would be. Actually so much fun that I seriously consider retiring my old touring car (which Ive used for drifting lately). I really want a shaft drive car and preferably one thats not too expensive and even more preferably one thats a Tamiya. So Ive pretty much narrowed it down to the TB02D-Spec or the TB03D. The TB02D-Spec cost a little more than the TB03D but comes with some option parts (like TRF dampers). But the TB03D has parts from the newer TB-Evo and the TRF416. Normally Id pick the newest chassis but Im a little concerned about reliability. Ive read that the TB02 has TA04 suspension arms (also used on the TA05) and they are supposed to be really tough. My old touring car is an Xray T1 (the first one) and its an absolute tank. Ive hardly ever replaced any parts on it and I like to continue that trend. So thats some of my thoughts on the subject and I would really appreciate feedback from anybody that has some experience with these cars. Ole
  5. Brat/Frog or Grasshopper/Hornet chassis would be a cheap option. And have you seen the M04 Sand Scorcher one of the members have built? Can't seem to find it myself at the moment but it should be in the forums somewhere and in a showroom. Ole
  6. Depends on what criteria you judge it by. I like it because it’s very close to the original release but has some crucial updates that make it more durable and easier to use. There is a thread on this forum about the differences between the original and the re-release. Bumpy. Check out the original Tamiya advertisement on rcgrabbage.com (http://www.rcgrabbag.com/vintage-tamiya-videos/) or on youtube In my opinion: Pro: True to the original (incl. great boxart) Very detailed body The most crucial weak spots corrected Not to expensive Con: Not easy to get parts (body has many details that will break off if you roll it). I'm not sure. I thought they were cheaper but it’s not like 198 for a NIB is a daylight robbery. You should check ebay and the trade section here on Tamiyaclub. Ole
  7. I have an old FF01 that needs a new body set and I like the new Tamiya Golf GTI Cup body. But I'm not to keen on having an extra set of body holes on my car. So what are people’s experiences with the newest Tamiya bodies? Are the holes pre-drilled? Ole Edit: Seems like the TT01E has a wheelbase of 251mm. Not sure if I'm interested in the Golf anymore but I'm still interested in knowing if the new Tamiya bodies are pre-drilled.
  8. Hi and welcome to the club. I'm also from Norway and there are also some other Norwegians here as well. Some have joined the Norwegian S.I.G (stands for Special Interest Group, right?). I haven't but I will as soon as I've taken some pictures and updated my showroom (It's practically empty at the moment). http://www.tamiyaclub.com/sig_member.asp?id=100 I don't own a Hi-Lux so I can't give you any technical assistance with the restoration but I can give you some basic vintage Tamiya info. Your friend is almost right. Some cars are difficult to find while others are "easy" to find but just very expensive to buy. The Hi-Lux is a very sought after Tamiya model so the prices are quite high. That also means all the parts you want for a restoration are also expensive. Ebay.com (or .co.uk, .de and so on) are the easiest place to find old Tamiya kits and parts but since it is a popular site the prices can be high on some items. What a friend or colleague might give you for a case of beer could cost you several hundred dollars on eBay so the cheapest way to find Tamiya cars is through people you know. Secondhand shops and flea markets could also be a good place to look. (Siden du bor i Norge burde du ogs fmlge med p finn.no, qxl.no og brukt sidene til forum.radiostyrt.no). Buy the decals here on Tamiyaclub rather then on ebay. If you find original decals on ebay they will expensive and if you buy reproductions you dont know you get. The reproduction decals here on Tamiyaclub are supposed to be real good. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/parts_shop_repro.asp You could probably find the old battery but the 4000mah capacity isn't impressive any more (But I do remember when it was very impressive). And considering the age of the pack the condition of the cells might not be great either. 4300mah and above is normal now. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-battery-c...r-c-52_786.html Cant recommend a specific charger but keep in mind that LiPo cells are becoming more common and your charger should support LiPo (as well as NiCad and Ni-MH). That's my opinion at least. I bought a $120 charger without Ni-MH support about a year before Ni-MH became the next big thing. Not cool. Your old transmitter is probably a 35 MHz FM meant to be used on planes. In Norway the 27 MHz and 40 MHz (AM or FM. Your choice) band is what you should use if drive RC cars (or the new 2.4 GHz systems). Ole
  9. Not easy to see if it's a Tamiya TL01 or a copy like HBX(Haiboxing). There is one thing that makes me think it could be a Tamiya or at least have some Tamiya parts. I thought all the HBX sets came with an electronic speed controller (ESC) and the one in your car looks very much like a Tamiya mechanical speed controller (MSC). Look at the color of the wires, the little lexan cover and the shiny 540 Johnson motor. Anyway it would make a great runner and if you need parts just buy Tamiya TL01 parts.
  10. Try rcmart.com or towerhobbies.com
  11. How is the wheelbase on the 935 compared to the 934?
  12. Ebay and Tamiyaclub (or similar online communities) would be good start. There are some NIB here on Tamiyaclub and it doesn't hurt to make the owners an offer. On eBay I would say keep an eye on Jason's store and Tamiya-rc. Jsourbeck also seems to have a lot of Marui parts. It also helps to spell it Marui I sometimes look for a Marui Samurai on ebay and I always spell it wrong.
  13. According to the TamiyaUSA webpage the following off-road re-releases are discontinued: The XR311, Dynastorm, Top Force, Thundershot and Manta Ray. Discontinued on-road re-releases include: Ferrari F40, Jaguar X JR-12, Mercedes Benz C11, (in Japan they also re-released the Mazda 787B) That list probably far from complete. At the moment I can't even remember all the re-releases. And then there are the releases that use more or less vintage bodies such as: Ferrari 312T3 and Tyrrell P34 Six Wheeler (F103RS based). Lancia 037 (TA03) Mazda MX-5/Miata (M04M)
  14. That looks awesome. I've been considering getting a Tamtech for some time but I think this will suit me much better since I already have a M04 chassis I can modify. The Countach body also has a 204mm wheelbase. Do you think it would fit or is the front too low? or maybe the rear has to many weird angles? Ole
  15. There are some Tamiya Alfa 155 bodies on eBay. I don't know if the sellers are charging more then it's worth. With RC cars nothing is really worth more than you are willing to pay. The Lancia body should be cheaper since Tamiya used it on a TT01 release a couple of years ago.Expect to pay around 40USD +shipping for a new body (already painted and with stickers applied by Tamiya).
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