Acto-Tuned

Thanks for the explanations.

When I joined tamiyaclub in 2004 the forum was different and if I remember correctly there was some kind of member number back then as well. But that number is not the same as I've got now. When I log in on the main page (tamiyaclub.com) my username is shown in the top right corner along with a number (#3445). I've always thought that was my member number. But on the "new" forum it says member no.: 4,911. Is the old number a showroom/subscriber number and the new number the actual member number? I've also noticed that many of the old members have very high member numbers as well. In fact it doesn't make sense to me that the owner of this site (netsmithUK aka. Chris) should be member no.:1,003

I'm thinking about putting together a cool looking car just for some fun driving on the local track (tarmac). One of the bodies I'm considering is the HKS Altezza so I’m wondering how wide that body is? One of the cars I would like to put the body on is a F103GT but I'm concerned that the chassis/suspension isn’t wide enough to fill those huge wheel arches. Link:HKS Altezza body at rcmart

It’s nice to hear that the F103 is still popular. I bought one when a local hobby shop was closing about 12years ago. But the lack of nearby tracks meant I never had a chance to get the best performance out it. The tarmac in the parking lots just didn’t provide good traction. I’ve often thought about buying a new F103 chassis since I can now easily reach three different outdoor tarmac tracks. But I’ve some problems deciding if I want the F103GT (touring car tires and bodies are easily available) or a F1 style F103. What I really would like is the Tyrell P34 re-release but getting different kind of tires would be difficult (I know jr-rc used to have some on eBay). Is the Group.C re-releases still available? That could also be a nice runner.

TC member futureworks has a C12 ’94 All Japan Champion Special in his showroom. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...39&id=16836 I don’t know why they call it that and what the all differences are but I have some ideas. In 1994 Tamiya Cup was pretty popular around the world. Tamiya Cup was/is a race series where the national winners would go on to a regional race (one for USA, Europe and so on). Then the winners from those races would get a free trip to Japan to race in the Tamiya Cup Worlds final. It could be that the C12 All ’94 Japan Champion Special is a replica of a F103 C12 that was used to win either the Japanese final or the World final (also held in Japan) From the pictures in futureworks showroom I can see that it has a carbon chassis, carbon axle and lightweight wheel/diff mount. Tamiya has also released other cars that included upgrades. FF01 Calsonic Primera and the FF01 Jaccs Accord are two examples. I don't think the value is that much higher for these special kits. The F103 chassis is pretty common and you have to be a hardcore collector to want them all. But that’s just my opinion.

Since Tamiya puts two Hi-Lifts in each box someone at rc-champ probably thought that taping two such boxes together would be the best/easiest way to ship four Hi-Lift kits. I could also be they were trying to make the package as small as possibly to keep down shipping costs. Anyway it doesn’t matter since I’m very pleased with every other aspect of the transaction.

I used RC-Champ once and I was really pleased with them. The only thing that wasn’t great was the way things were packed. I bought 4 F-350 Hi-Lifts (only one was for me) and they just shipped them in the cardboard box Tamiya packs them in (like the one in your picture). No extra styrofoam, bubble wrap or anything like that. Just four kit boxes in a medium thick cardboard box (perfect fit since it was a Tamiya box) shipped half way around the world. Three of the kit boxes had damaged corners. Next time I’ll ask them to wrap the kits in some bubble wrap or something. But their prices are just great so I will use them again…and again…

If you want to know more about the Tamtech Buggy Champ (Rough Rider) you should check out the review at oople.com. Link: http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewbuggy...pion/index.html

Check out Tamiyablog.com to see what re-releases you missed out on. I didn’t spend much time here on TC last year so I don’t know what we missed here. Link: http://www.tamiyablog.com/ Exiting releases from 2007 that I remember are: Hilux 3speed Tamtech Rough Rider Hotshot re-release Tamtech Porsche 934 (935 and Countach soon to be released) 501X 4WD buggy (world class racing buggy) Subaru Brat re-release

Mud-Plugger (a fellow member here on TC) was kind enough to send me a PM with the link to a thread about 4WD Mini building. Thanks Edit: Removed link (that didn't work).

I'm looking for it now but haven't found it yet. I believe I posted in that thread so I'm looking through my posts. However my brother did make a TL01 based Mini and I remember how to do it. The TL01 has a wheelbase of about 257mm (check here on TC first) and the Mini wheelbase is about 210mm (225mm for the medium (M) length version). The part of the TL01 chassis you need to cut out is the space where you normally place the ESC/receiver. To make a 210mm Mini you need to cut away almost the entire ESC/receiver mounting area. Then just glue it back together (you can use some cheap glue gun). M03 suspension fits the TL01 chassis. Ole

On rccaraction.com there is something called RCNet. These are short video clips and two of them are about how to get rear wheel steering on your crawler using a 3rd channel switch. But you can of course use the third channel to shift gear instead. The two radios they show are a modified Traxxas TQ3 (you need to open it and replace the switch) and the Spectrum DX3R. http://209.196.57.91/ME2/dirsect.asp?sid=A...74&nm=RCNet. Episode 0031 for the Traxxas radio and episode 0024 for the Spectrum DX3R setup guide.

A Toyota FJ40 body from Tamiya would be nice..

The VW body was available on the M02L, same as the Porsche 911 and Boxter. If those manuals are available here on Tamiyaclub you could check and see if they had different body posts. The Mercedes SLK was also M02L. The Mazda MX5/Miata was M02M, same as the Alfa so you would have to remove the spacer on your M04L. Ole

The ESC can't handle much more then a 540 silver can. Even if someone is successfully pushing the limits of the TEU-101 I won’t take that chance with my nephews car. Buying a new ESC is not an option at the moment.

Ok. I thought chopping a body might be the only solution. And I was considering buying a Kamtec Rough Rider ABS repro and cut it like the CRP SRB in eric swe's showroom. But I still do that with an original chassis (erik’s Rough Rider doesn’t look long either). Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the reply. I'm also using the 19t pinion. If you don't have a problem then maybe I should have another look at the drivetrain or see it the tires rub aginst the suspension.

A couple of years ago one of my nephews got my old TL01 equipped with XC tires and a Chevy CORR body. However the car is running seriously hot. After a 1700mAh pack you can’t touch the motor (if you put some spit on your finger and touch it you can hear it sizzle). The battery also becomes quite hot but not to hot to hold (but hotter than it should be). The motor is a silver can 540 and the ESC is a TEU-101. I've tried to replace the motor with another silver can but that didn't change anything and I can’t find anything in the drive train that isn't running smooth. I'm also using the smallest pinion on the original gear set. So the problem seems to be the big tires but they are no bigger then what Tamiya put on the Stadium or the Baja King. They could be heavier but I would be surprised if that was the problem. The only cure I can think of is to try heat sinks and if that fails convert it back to a tarmac car (thankfully the local club built a new on-road track last summer). But then I have to buy him a new off-road car since there is a lot of gravel where he lives and he won’t manage to keep an on-road car away from it. Using a small fan is not really an option since it'll get stones jammed in it an my nephew could put his fingers in it. So I'm going to try heatsinks first. The plan is to use two sets: 1: Clip on heatsink (or similar but remember only a small part of the motor sticks out of the chassis) 2: Bolt on heatsink (not sure how much it works but I need to get that car cooler.) Any input or other solutions would be great.

I see that reproduction CRP butterfly chassis have been on ebay for some time now and I was thinking about buying one. I've only seen the long version and it's an inch (2,54cm right?) longer than the original chassis. So how does Rough Rider or Sand Scorcher bodies fit on that chassis? Pictures would be nice.

Nice. Oople reviews are always the best.

Stellamodels.net has them in stock for $105US incl.ESC.

I made a similar choice a couple of days ago and I ended up choosing the Brat. The reason I went with the Brat is because of its hard body. That being said I’ll probably buy a Hot Shot (or a Fire Dragon) next year.

Never gotten any Tamiya cars for Christmas but then again I knew I would never get such an expensive gift. At least not a toy (I know Tamiya claim they’re not toys). So my first r/c car was bought with money I’ve saved and later on I got a job delivering the local newspaper. So that way I could afford most of the r/c stuff I wanted. However this season, now being 27years old, I was given the job of buying my own Christmas gift (from my grandmother). I figured I was going to order a Brat from stellamodels. 105USD plus shipping fits the budget just right. I’d been thinking about this for close to a week but didn’t get around to ordering it. But I didn’t worry. I was going to use EMS shipping so it shouldn’t take longer than a week for the kit to arrive. At least that is what I thought. I was going to order the kit this evening but I was met with this message on their webpage. ** 16-DECEMBER-2007 SHIPPING NEWS UPDATE *** EMS SHIPPING MAY NO LONGER DELIVER BEFORE XMAS I haven’t put in the order yet but I figure I’ll do it later tonight. Hopefully it arrives before the 24.des (in Norway the tradition is to open the presents in the evening at the 24.des). If it dosen't arrive in time I can always print out the tracking number and that under the christmas tree.

The tires looks too big although it seems they made an effort to get the pattern right.

That Junfac set looks good but I’m not going to buy a custom chassis set until somebody offers one with some good 4-link mounts (for both chassis and axle). Until that happens $180US is a bit expensive for me.