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About Tamiyabigstuff

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  • Birthday 11/13/1961

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    Classic cars, vintage rock & pop and R/C

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  1. What he said ^^^ I only ever use silicone sealant for this.
  2. Might have a spare Tamiya 70115 Forklift kit somewhere - let me know if interested & I'll have a look. It runs on a wired remote, not R/C.
  3. I've used the 74006 & 74007 screwdrivers with the black plastic handles for years but recently treated myself to a 74119 & 74120 PRO versions - not a lot more money but more comfortable to use. Not sure I would pay almost £40 for a 74152 ratchet handle & 1 bit... Using correct JIS screwdrivers is a must - stops screw heads getting damaged.
  4. Could be many reasons... Market research is a big driver of this type of move, or maybe different rules regarding paint chemicals in different counties. What would be cool is supplying kits with a pre-finished body & an unpainted version with decals so you have one for the shelf and another for running. The Sunbaru Brat re-re came with both hardbody & polycarbonate and the kit was still reasonably priced.
  5. Nice looking truck. If the price is right then go for it.
  6. Neat work on the paint & stickers - worthy of gracing the pages of a Tamiya catalogue.
  7. Found in my spares today - 1 x Stadium Thunder front wheel - looks to be new. Free to anyone for the cost of the postage.
  8. Deluxe Materials Canopy glue or Microscale Krystal Klear.
  9. Don't know if the vintage & re-re driveshafts are interchangeable. What length is the driveshaft you still have ? Have you found anything else worn or broken which would have allowed the driveshaft to pop out ?
  10. Doesn't look too bad - should polish out with T-Cut... Seriously - glue some styrene scrap to the inside to reinforce any cracked areas - won't win any prizes for looks but will hold the body together which is all you want.
  11. Diveshafts normally only fall out when something else is broken or badly worn. I think I still have some new vintage spares but will need to check. Are you in the UK ?
  12. Easiest solution is to get a new 27Mhz receiver which you can plug the ESC into - you can continue to use your 27Mhz handset.
  13. Hello Tamiyabigstuff

    Regarding my search for TL01 stabilizer bars; you said you have the M03 53343, is this the whole 53343 set or just part. Please let me know what you have exactly and also a price including postage. 

    I have already secured a bar with attachments so thats going straight onto the rear of my TL01 Stratos as soon as it arrives and that should be suffice for that car as it is rear wheel drive only.  But I wouldnt mind some surplus to requirements parts as  you know what this hobby is like, am already lining up more builds.

    1. Tamiyabigstuff



      I have 1 NIP 53343 I can spare - this is complete.

      £30 posted.



    2. Dirt-540


      Hello Mike

      I'm going to pass on that for now chap. Thank you for your help though, very much appreciated. ;)

  14. OK, just had a look - the longest cylinders I have are approx 65mm overall length with the 3 parts assembled - not sure if these are the U parts you are looking for. The Bigwig manual I have to hand is not very helpful as it does not have 1:1 scale pics of the shock bodies. I have 2 shocks assembled with springs which are approx 105mm long - one has a black lower mounting eye, the other yellow. I have 2 shocks assembled with springs which are approx 115mm long both with yellow lower mounting eyes. These are used so will need cleaning and maybe new seals. Let me know if these are of interest.
  15. I have some a bag of used yellow shocks - what length shock bodies do you need ?
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