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Daniel.S15

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Posts posted by Daniel.S15


  1. 1 hour ago, Juggular said:

    It would drift if you lock it.  So it would depend on how tight ball diff is or how sticky the grease is.  

    I've seen a video of a Konghead spinning on one spot like a spinning top. Not going anywhere, just spinning and spinning. Even the Japanese guy who was driving it sounded surprised.  That would never be possible with AW grease in the diffs.  Forward momentum would be too much. 

    You can apply the same principle to the tail-wagging of a RWD chassis.  If the differentials are sticky, both wheels would want to spin more or less at the same ratio.  Meaning, they would try to go forward, instead of spinning. Which would result in less turning at the rear.  Which would mean less spinouts.  

    Locked diffs spins in a different way.  If locked, one or both wheels must lose traction at any turn. Then the chassis go with where the weight goes. Hence drifting.  

    So the conclusion is, locking is bad, free rotating is also not good.  I've got Bad Horsie diff lock pictured before, 3Racing diff grease, and differential putty too. But I found that for M-chassis, AW grease seems to be the best match.  All these other things would be tad too sticky for M-chassis and nearly lock the diff.  

    For DT02, which is indeed somewhat similar in the weight distribution, I use stickier diff grease.  Traction has a lot to do with understeer, so sometimes a bit of a weight on the nose could be a quick and dirty way to fix the understeer on tarmac.  

    Oh, man... @TurnipJF' Apline is gorgeous!  I was going to get a Karman Ghia next, but now I'll have to get an Apline 110 first!  Oh the fickle nature of a man... lol...  

     

    Those rally tires would be perfect for that type of surface. In that case, I'd install Sport Tuned.  Fitting for a rally set up too! And if using a hotter motor, steel pinion would be good too. (I'm lazy and cheap, so I just use teflon grease and call it a day. Gears just wear less with teflon.  But I did see a 20 year old used car delivered with total paste of aluminum. That's bad, I had to get a steel pinon for that one -- it might have been TL01B) 

    I have the same motor heatsink.  Many M-chassis motors don't get a lot of air, and magnets in the motor don't like heat.  If you are running stock, it's not really necessary.  But for hotter motors, it might not be a bad thing to have. The same goes for steering. See how you like the stock steering on M06. If you find it sloppy, you can get a 3rd party kit.  

    No 2 car would be set up the same way. No 2 people would do it the same way either.  And if you want the best performance, you would use best tires for each surface.  If you find it understeering, you might want to replace front 2 tires with super grip, for example.  I'd check out what tires come with your kit first, though.  

    I run mostly buggies, but I'm glad that I jumped into M chassis with M-06.  I hope you like yours.  

     

    Many thanks for your detailed explanation :)


  2. 22 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

    Sport tuned will be plenty fast. M means always biggest pinion, 20T.

    Anti Roll bar is good for fine tuning on this chassis, you can add it later.

    I like driving this chassis, as it´s the easiest to handle M-chassis with RWD in my eyes. M08 can be a little faster into the corner, but is also more edgy when grip is low. You cannot compare driving it with a FWD M or  an 4WD car, it´s the biggest challenge you can have on the radio. But in the right conditions, it´s a blast to drive and you will not notice, that it´s actually the heaviest of all Tamiya M-chassis.

    Oil filled dampers are a must (on any M), as track width and wheel base are small, and those little beasts really like some damping. Depending on the road conditions, I´d prefer the S-Grips over the M-grips on most surfaces. You can use M-grip or radial for the front to make driving easier with a little more understeer in the beginning.

    What can help you too is a good ball diff or even an oil filled gear diff from 3Racing, Yeah racing or Tamiya (using TB04 and TA03 parts). So you get all the power to the ground.;)

    Kind M-regards,

    Matthias

    Thank you for the answer . :) 

    With a good ball diff or oil filled gear diff i could get all the power to the ground. In case of an FWD or 4WD it would be certainly beneficial, but if i apply the same effect on a tail heavy RWD car, will it not have a big tendency for drifting?  Or it all depends on how tight that ball diff is or how heavy that oil is in the diff? 

    Its just a theoretical question since i only have the good old tamiya gear diff(except for the rear ball diff in my ta-02, but i have no idea if its setup the right way. )

    • Like 1

  3. 31 minutes ago, Juggular said:

    Welcome to Tamiya Club!  

    And your English is fine. 

    1) You don't even need Sport Tuned.  I have a couple of Sport Tuned, but I chose NOT to install it on M06.  It's quick enough.  With more power, the easier it would be to lose control too. But of course, experimenting is a big part of RC, so it's up to you.  

    2) 20t supplied is good enough also.  If you have Teflon grease, even aluminum pinion is fine.  If you want steel pinion, that's fine too.  

    3) I haven't installed anti-roll bar, so I can't say.  The stock version is fine for me.   

    4) It's very tail heavy.  The nose is very light.  So it drives like an old VW bug, if you have been in one.  

    5) I had installed oil shocks, but the front is so light, I drained the oil out of Front shocks (Yeah Racing shocks for about $25).  I kept the stock Tamiya springs.  

    6) The rear can easily spin out, so my M06 came with S-Grip for the rear (M-Grip for the front).  No need to buy new tires.  

    7) Aluminum steering kit is not necessary, in my opinion.  The stock steering is precise enough. But spicing up is fun too. 

    8) I recommend using AW grease in your differential (I forget if it comes with it or not).  Little bit of Limited-Slip-Differential action makes it easier to handle. Otherwise, the tail tends to spin out.  There are sticky grease designed for diffs. (Below is too much stickiness for M06. But AW grease is just about right) 

    IaYdK2A.jpg

    6jzu0Fd.jpg

     

    Thank you for your answer. :) It gives me the impression, that sometimes less can be more.

    By VERY tail heavy did you mean tail heavy just like a DT-02?

    I had one and on gravel it was a blast, but it didn't matter what i did to the steering and the suspension it had horrible understeer on tarmac because of its tail heaviness.

    • Like 1

  4. Hello everybody!

    This is my very first question on this forum (and in this language... ) and yes, i know my English leaves a lot to be desired, but believe me i do my best, so please go easy on me :)

     

    I'm going to build an M-06(Nimh Battery and TBLE-02s Esc.), but it being my first RWD Chassis i have a few question when it comes to the handling:

    -Is my Sport Tuned motor powerful enough for it to be quick when accelerating out of a curve or should i buy something hotter(I would prefer a brushed one)? I guess quick acceleration depends also on the gear ratio, so my next question is:

    -What pinion size should i choose?

    -Is an Anti-roll bar any good for this chassis?

    -How does this Chassis actually drive? Sorry for the dumb question, but i guess it will be FAR different than my TL-01, TA-02 or M-03, so i just want to have an idea in terms of what to look for when it comes to driving this car.

    Good Tires(60D M-Grip), Suspension(Oil filled extra short dampers),  Aluminium Steering(Yeah Racing) are also going to be on the Car 

          

    • Like 2
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