Ray_ve

In this set-up it's an RPM sensor. It detects if metal is present or not, so with that slotted disc it should give 8 pulses per revolution. https://www.digikey.be/nl/articles/techzone/2013/feb/sensors-and-severe-conditions

At this moment.... I'm really really struggling to resist a Marui Shogun that is advertised at this moment....

Nice! Still have one that needs attention too. It looks like it's been stored in a painters shed! So stripdown and then a bucket of paint remover and a Bluegroove replacement body. Wheels need repair too. So many dreams, so little time.......

My 2nd car was a grasshopper back when I was a kid, so I got a Rising Fighter which is almost the same thing. But having driven it 2 times I sold it again, just did not live up to the dream. My blazing star, to replace the manta ray I once had, will also be sold again.

Do you have some more clarification on the steering? With wheels off the ground, the steering should be fine, full left and right lock. With wheels on the ground, and a standard servo, the wheels can indeed stay almost straight due to the friction between tire and ground, and will steer when the car starts rolling. Solution would be a stronger servo saver with less flex and a strong steering servo. Also to check out: Is the steering limiter on the transmitter set to full swing? Are the adjustable steering ball cups hitting the chassis?

My method is different. All year I order and collect parts that I, in my own humble opinion, desperately need! So spending is spread to keep amounts low and not to awake the dragon arouse suspicions at wife's side. And at Christmas, I finally hope to do some actual work on the cars! But I was ordered persuaded by before mentioned person to do some DIY on the house too.... So need to work on a strategy to allow myself some free time.

Ordered a set of 4 lunchbox tires, to put on modified rims of a Marui Big Bear. Need to be quick while Tonytamiyaparts is still an EU member.

If I recall correctly, both versions have their own advantages. Metal bearings have a gap between sideplate and rotating part, giving them lower drag compared to rubber seal. Rubber seals are better at keeping dirt out of the bearing compared to metal For my konghead, I intend to do a mixed setup. Metal for anything inside a gearbox as this is sealed anyway. And rubber for the driveshafts at wheel side.

Absolutely! Just bought an extra HDMI cable so I can connect the laptop to the TV. Waiting for ep4! Typically best to watch after 23:00 when the kid and wife are off to bed.

A typical simple upgrade is metal anti-rotation brackets. More advanced is the dual-servo steering, but that is more a modification then an upgrade.

I use the GoolRC TG3 pistolgrip sets form Aliexpress. I have 2 transmitters (1 for Tamiya models, 1 for Marui) and each of my drivable/finished car has its own receiver. A transmitter/reciever set is 20 to 25 euros, a seperate receiver 5 euros. These have been perfect and reliable from day 1 for me.

Worked on the electrification of my Mugen Prime 12 nitro chassis. Looks like it can all (barely) fit. Need to make a new top-plate on the chassis, and a better motor mount as this L-shaped bracket has too much flex for my taste.

Today, I recieved the holy grail!

Maybe a stupid question but that pinion looks very clean. Did you use grease on the gears?

But with a re-designed gearbox for better stronger material gears that can also take bearings, so it can run brushless. And a battery case to hold 3S! And an optional wheely bar. Lighting kit would be nice too.