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Everything posted by Ray_ve

  1. Had some time to give this lunchbox wheeled grasshopper a quick clean, and rebuild with bearings and modern electronics. Took it for a test-drive but my 6 year old daughter quickly claimed the transmitter to drive 'her car'.
  2. Been looking for a certain pinion everywhere in the closets and boxes for days.... Only to now realise that it's mounted in the gearbox of Frankenstein-Big Bear. Doooh!
  3. The Clod body sits very high indeed, I changed it to a more reasonable height. Here is a picture of my chassis with lower mounts. I linked it better this way. Front 25mm high, rear 5mm high (chassis to body, excluding the stud parts that goes through the body). Edit: I believe the body sits high because of the battery that sits sideways in the chassis. In my configuration, the battery does not fit anymore (or is harder to swap because you need to remove the body first) so I made a new battery place inside the chassis, lengthwise, suitable for 3S lipo.
  4. Saw that one too and it is nice, but that mount plus shipping is about 20 euro's, to get a car running that I paid 50 euro's for... So was hoping to find a more 'balanced' (cheaper) item.
  5. I'm looking for the motor mount that is on the lunchbox gearbox, to mount a 540 motor with the small brass pinion. Preferably not in the price range of the adjustable ones on eBay, something cheaper. Or an STL file for 3D printing is ok too. I'm located in the Netherlands.
  6. Two complete brand new in bag old stock Marui Big Bear gearsets.
  7. Being a Marui nuthead, I do agree that the Ninja is a very good looking buggy. It has smoother and better flowing lines compared to the Shogun. I believe Marui made models back then that were great in design. The Ninja chassis is basically similar to a DF-01 chassis. Or the coolness factor of the chain-drive Samurai, that was almost sience-fiction for 12 year old me. When I put my Ninja together after its cleanup and upgrades, I did have a hard time deciding if that spoiler should go on or not. It does look very sleek and stealthy without the spoiler, and stealth is Ninja. But keeping the looks box-art, the spoiler did go on eventually. Maybe I'll do a runner without the spoiler at some point. So many plans, so little time..... Still need to finish my Samurai and start on my Shogun as we are on the topic of cool buggies. And maybe then continue on two Big Bears that also sit here collecting dust.. Man this midlife crisis is starting to kick in.
  8. Wanted to do some clean-up so I thought about selling a lunchbox-wheeled Grasshopper II that has been sitting here as a project for a rainy day. Took foto's to sell it on a local website. Ended up ordering bearings and a ESC/motor instead...
  9. Stripped the recently aquired Marui Galaxy RS down, to see what's what. Gears are about 2/3rd way gone. The grease is so old and sticky, it now resembles chewing gum.... Some little plastic bits of one shocktower are broken off but complete. It uses 5x11x4mm bearings in the gearbox, but our chinese friends can supply those. Tires need a cleanup and re-fit, but are in reasonable shape for their age. So overall... little repair, replace, bearings and electronics and we have a shelf-queen.
  10. Ah yes, here in the Netherlands we have the option to transfer packages to a pickup point instead of home. That saved me many times.
  11. If budget is an issue... I user a cheap 2.4ghz TG3 pistolgrip set from aliexpress. The set is about 20 euro's, extra receivers 4.50 euro's. So alle my running models are ready to go, just pop in a battery.
  12. Edit: got the name wrong, it's a Galaxy RS.
  13. Offcourse Marui and Tamiya are key search words I use. But I was browsing in the 'RC cars, all brands' section and saw it listed as 'old buggy'.
  14. Stumbled upon a cheap Marui Hunter on a local trading site. So......... it happened again.
  15. Another non-gearbox related cause for a burned motor could be that some dirt/contamenant got between the brushes and commutator. Especially with a motor that has open slots to the outside and is not water/dirt sealed. This will increase the electrical resistance between brushes and commutator, causing increased heat, which results in burning of the commutator which increases resistance even more with more heat, etc... etc... until the motor dies. Had this happen in my basherbear after driving through a puddle. Smoke came pooring from the motor. For me, stuff happens just replace it.
  16. Been bidding on some cars over the past few day but missed them all! My mojo is really in bad shape these days.
  17. Doing some mock-up for a semi-crawler with a M-05 chassis that is converted to rear wheel drive, and an old body. Final body will be polycarbonate from team Bluegroove, with lighting. Ordered some different shocks and servo horn, so I can continue at a later time.
  18. Wheels and tires that I ordered in February came in. I had already given up on them.....
  19. My best runner is Basher-Bear. 3S Lipo, 3900KV motor, 4WD HSP Himoto chassis. This thing flies! A drive today reminded me I need to glue the tires, get a wheely bar and to mount skid-plates on the roof.
  20. Tamico.de seems to have them in stock. 11 euro for the part and cheapest shipping is 12 euro by DPD. But to get a better 'parts cost to shipping cost' ratio, you can always order more RC stuff from the website.
  21. It was a while ago when I put bearings in my Ninja... They are I believe not the same as tamiya size, but are standard millimeter sizes. From the top of my head, bearing sizes are: Outside, Inside, thickness 8mm, 4mm, 3mm (small bushing, typically at the geraboxes) 10mm, 6mm, 3mm (large bushings, typically at the wheels) But simply measuring the axels and holes, or the old bushings that come out of it, will tell you that in more detail. Callipers would be handy. 2: You can use shim washers where the metal spacer sits. The whole point of the step is to prevent a washer from touching both the inner and outer race of the bearing at the same time, eliminating friction. If the correct metal part is unavailable, one option would be to use a bunch of 0.1 or 0.2mm thick shim washers to set the gearmesh correctly on the bevel gears. Use a couple until correct mesh is achieved. If the shim diameter touches the outer race too much, trim the shim diameter down with sciccors.
  22. Been looking into doing a DF-01 Shogun. As I Iove to have drivable Marui's, but replica lookalikes that have spares available is a better option. Took the Blazing star DF-01 chassis (which already has all the necessary upgrades like bearings, metal motor mount and steering rack, etc...) and 3D printed a temporary front upper suspension arms mount to test if the chassis can be adapted to look more like a Marui Shogun. It looks promising, but it is fiddly. Goal is to sit the front suspension shocks much lower/horizontal (like an Avante) compared to the near vertical of the DF-01. The Tamiya CVA shocks will not fit, so ordered a set of shorter front and rear shocks, and a temporary tire/wheel combo. So to be continued when these parts arrive and I can finish the front tower, and the rear will get a custom tower/body mount too.
  23. Wanted a RWD M chassis but a cheap used M04 or M06 were hard to find. So found a cheap used M03, managed to intercept the package and get it past the wife into the Ray-cave unseen. Now fiddling with it to convert it to RWD. Found a nice guide on this side so using that for inspiration. Nice little project.
  24. Plenty of project cars for 2020. The list includes: - Strip/Clean/Rebuild the Marui Shogun. - Paint and rebuild the Marui Samurai. - Finish one Marui Big Bear as original, but modern electronics. - Strip/clean/rebuild one Big Bear, modern electronics and Lunchbox tires modification. - Finish the Mugen Seiki Prime 12 electrification. Specials: - Big bear long-bed version, 6 wheeler (konghead based). - (Not so) Big Bear Pickup Truck (M-chassis based). - Drivable Shogun and Ninja (DF-01 based). So with the time available to me, I'm good until 2050.
  25. I got curious so took some pictures with a un-cut replica Shogun body on my Blazing Star chassis. It was actually very suprising! The Shogun body is much wider in the middle, so it fits over the sideways battery case! (The Ninja shell does not fit as its too narrow, hence the modicications I want to do for a ninja). Also, the cut-outs in the body for the front suspension shocks look like they might actually clear the existing set-up.In the rear, the shocks may need some form of lowering so they do not stick through the body. Just behind the front gearbox and the steering rack, the chassis is 80mm wide, the body is 75mm, but it will flex over it I guess. The front mounting post can be alligned with the body's original mounting hole. Note: in the pictures, I flipped the rear lower suspension arms, and mounted the shocks in front of the arms. Normally they are in the rear.I did this to see if I could get the rear shocks in the proper position to stick through a Ninja body.
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