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Ray_ve

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Everything posted by Ray_ve

  1. TNX again. After the test drive it was time to make things more 'permanent'. Added all screws I had not done yet to the wheels and their axle adapters. Receiver into the receiver box along with all ESC and servo wiring. 3D printed a temporary battery box. 3D printed a small mount for the motor wiring. Looking much sharper now!
  2. Electrified TNX made its first baby-steps today. It was a good drive! 3S, 2200KV motor. Drives about 30kph and has a sharp turning circle. Can go faster with 4S, but that may push the modded gearbox a bit too far so satisfied for now. Time to build it a body!
  3. Washing clothes. Can't find car keys. Washing machine making jingle bells noises so found said keys.... But did strip, clean and assemble/fill the TNX shocks.
  4. Realised there are easier ways than all those hours of assembling a car. https://www.reddit.com/r/radiocontrol/s/TZfteh6vpg
  5. Had left-over wood so I made stands for the big trucks to save the tires. Mad some for the Marui buggy too, but that's simply a 5x5x25cm piece of solid wood.
  6. NOS uprights and knuckels for the TNX. The last parts I was waiting for to finish the chassis.
  7. The gears came in that I needed to modify the TNX gearbox for electrification. Was hoping the gears would just drop in and fit, but turned out it was not that easy. Had to reduce the smaller gear from 20mm depth to 16.5mm depth, and cut a slot so the original locking pin can be used which made life easy. Reduced the larger gear to 17mm, drilled new holes for the set-screws but I need an M5 thread tapping set to complete it. But for now, the modified gear box spins as it should, so job done.
  8. Gears for the electrified Mugen Seiki came in so some work on that to overcome the issues that came to light at its first test run. Small re-position on the motor bracket mounting holes for correct mesh. Center gearbox now with nylon gear, motor with brass gear, and locktight as the screws were coming loose. Filled the shocks. Fitted extra grippy HPI tires, and glued them. Test run later when all glue is dry.
  9. A small victory today, I partially rebuild the TNXs front gearbox/suspension. It'll have to wait now for the new knuckels/uprights I ordered on eBay to arrive, as 1 of the original ones is broken. The rear differential needs to wait for the Tamico order to arrive, so no progress there. The steering rack has a lot of play in it due to 2 aluminium axels that are badly worn due to the slide bearings. I've filled the grooves with JB-weld, and will rebuild with the 8x5x2.5mm ball bearings. One more dirty job on the to-do list: strip, clean and rebuild/fill the shocks.
  10. Finished cleaning the TNX differential parts and drive shafts. That concludes cleaning parts with terpentine to get the old grease off. Then a few rounds of the ultrasonic cleaner for detailing. Now to do an ultrasound clean on the rest of the plastic parts, and the screws. Edit: rebuild the front diff with new ball bearings. Rebuild all drive shafts and managed to loose 1 of the little E clips, l thankfully found 1 in the spares box that just about fits.
  11. Started cleaning the TNXs differentials, and found that one diff has internal damage. This causes a dilemma, as I told myself no more ordering this month, but Tamico has the spares and the candygreen grasshopper on sale and I need some paint supplies so........ Edit: ordered the diff parts and missing step screws for the TNX, and paint and tires for the Mugen Seiki. Resisted the grasshopper as I have enough cars.
  12. A motor mount, bearings and ball links for the TNX and spare gears for the Mugen Seiki. Unfortunatly, the new gears I really want to modify the TNX center gearbox were not with this shipment. Hopefully soon....
  13. Cleaned out the gritty used brushless motor and installed new bearings. It still runs a bit rough, but I'll use it as-is as it is intended as a spindle motor for a CNC machine. Makes a lot less running noise compared to the brushed 775 motor it uses now at high RPM. I thought I forgot to order replacement gears for the elecftrified Mugen Seiki so ordered a brass/nylon center gear set to see if that is less noisy compared to the all metal I had installed. Looking at my order history I came accross the order for the TNX chassis, which also included a new gearset for the Mugen, so plenty of spare gears coming this way now. Also found the TNX chassis had a broken upright, found a spare set on eBay. Now to find some coolant for my credit card..... No more ordering stuff for this month.
  14. I used these vinyl sticker sheets that can be printed with an inkjet printer: https://www.amazon.nl/PPD-Stickerfolie-Zelfklevend-Microporeuze-Fotokwaliteit/dp/B00PFW4K7C/ref=rtpb_d_sccl_2/257-4560549-5873712?pd_rd_w=sqU2h&content-id=amzn1.sym.edc82bac-6827-4092-8693-526f4aca1c90&pf_rd_p=edc82bac-6827-4092-8693-526f4aca1c90&pf_rd_r=5480XD6JSKPK6HARRTRM&pd_rd_wg=fCv4W&pd_rd_r=ce0f27bc-4f56-4c48-85f3-fa4f5beffa6f&pd_rd_i=B00PFW4K7C&th=1 These sheets will give you a solid white background, on which the printer can print any color. I also tried translucent sheets, but unless you apply those to a white body the results were not OK for my taste. All the decals on the Duke Nukem Mighty Foot truck are made this way. Note that due to the inktjet ink, the decals are NOT waterproof.
  15. Bought a used brushless motor/Esc combo because it was cheap but regretting it in hindsight. Looking at it, it needs quite some TLC. The motor is dirty, gritty, some mounting hole thread damage. It is salvageable, a good clean and new bearings will bring it a long way. But next time, new stuff only.
  16. Translucent shocks, what will they think of next. Love the way that looks!
  17. Stripped down the Tamiya nitro TNX chassis. Nothing like a well-used off-road nitro car to show the true meaning of the word 'filth'. Edit: Ordered all the stuff I initially need to get this car moving. - Bearings, the existing ones heve quite some play as they are well used. - ball ends and caps, the existing ones are very worn. - Brushless motor mount for the 2150KV 3670. - 2 spur gears to replace part of the internals of the center gearbox from forward-only 2-speed to 1-speed forward-reverse. Edit 2: Took the motor out of the Mugen Seiki to check the adjustmets that need to be made, only to find that the pinion had snapped a tooth straight off. Ordered a new center gear and 2 pinions so I have a spare set.
  18. Gave the electrified Mugen Seiki a test drive outside. It's plenty fast on 2S, drives smooth and straight and corners like crazy. No need for a 3S that would be too much power. The Chinese aluminium rims didn't handle it well, need to hammer 2 back in shape, and glue the tires as those kept popping off. Also needs some small adjustments in gear/motor mount and fill the shocks. Overall, very happy with this conversion.
  19. So far, sitting in Monkey Town as my daughter wanted to play there, while the 3D printer is printing for a few hours to make a part for a CNC machine. Said machine will be used to make electronic circuit boards, which in turn will be used for the cars. Hoping to make some stands for the cars this afternoon if time permits.
  20. Came across some fun in the snow. https://www.reddit.com/r/rccars/s/itQ0xV8nur
  21. I looked into it, here in the Netherlands you indeed don't require a club. But, you are not allowed to fly close to people, homes, roads and railway infrastructure, etc. So you need a big open space, ideally between lots of farmland as that provides a lot of open space with good view. And that is exactly where the rc flying clubs are.
  22. Last snow before temps go up again, so popped a lipo into basher bear and took it out.
  23. Why cars? Well in the past I've made and owned many different RC models. Boats: Simple, not much moving parts. But a breakdown means wait forever until the wind blows it to shore, or strip and swim (don't ask me how I know). Hovercrafts: Noisy, terrible to manouver as you need to throttle up to steer not down to get airflow over the control surfaces, and the propellors proofed a finger trap (don't ask me how I know). Planes: You have to go to a RC fly club to fly, planes are not allowed everywhere. And it was difficult to master a 3D world. Flying not that much, but a controlled landing was an issue (don't ask me how I know). Helicopters: Noisy, needed a lot of adjustments, lots of fast moving finger chopping parts, need a fly club, difficult, can't handle landing upside down (don't ask me how I know). Tanks: Nice models, but limited in running potential as they are slow. But it's a good add-on when you make the main gun functional (don't ask me how I know). So back to cars: Nice and simple in handling and running because you can just put it on the street and go. The electro cars are very easy, just charge a battery and go. Not doing nitro anymore too much of a hassle. Breakdown? Just walk to it and pick it up. The simplicity of running the RC car is what does it for me.
  24. 3D printer was really fighting me today. Printed a new part for a printer belt tensioner first, as this was still on the to do list. That went well. Mounted the part, all looked good. But when I wanted to print a new strengthener plate for the Mugen Seiki the printer's Z axis did not calibrate. I knocked loose a Z stop switch wire, so had to get the soldering iron. Also had the problem that when adjusting setting on the printer, it would constantly reset itself. Finally tracked that down to the controls housing pinching the little reset switch that was out of sight on the bottom. So, after an hour's work, it's finally happily printing again. Just one of those days...
  25. More attic insulation. I found a part in the roof next to the chimney that was not properly finished when the house was build in the 70s. No wonder cold air was always present in that area. Closed it off and started the wooden frame for insulation and sheetrock. So now I updated some 3D models for parts intended for the Mugen Seiki electrification. Center gearbox needs to be sealed so I can put some grease on those gears. Hopefully I have some time to print those tomorrow.
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