Ray_ve

Came across some fun in the snow. https://www.reddit.com/r/rccars/s/itQ0xV8nur

I looked into it, here in the Netherlands you indeed don't require a club. But, you are not allowed to fly close to people, homes, roads and railway infrastructure, etc. So you need a big open space, ideally between lots of farmland as that provides a lot of open space with good view. And that is exactly where the rc flying clubs are.

Last snow before temps go up again, so popped a lipo into basher bear and took it out.

Why cars? Well in the past I've made and owned many different RC models. Boats: Simple, not much moving parts. But a breakdown means wait forever until the wind blows it to shore, or strip and swim (don't ask me how I know). Hovercrafts: Noisy, terrible to manouver as you need to throttle up to steer not down to get airflow over the control surfaces, and the propellors proofed a finger trap (don't ask me how I know). Planes: You have to go to a RC fly club to fly, planes are not allowed everywhere. And it was difficult to master a 3D world. Flying not that much, but a controlled landing was an issue (don't ask me how I know). Helicopters: Noisy, needed a lot of adjustments, lots of fast moving finger chopping parts, need a fly club, difficult, can't handle landing upside down (don't ask me how I know). Tanks: Nice models, but limited in running potential as they are slow. But it's a good add-on when you make the main gun functional (don't ask me how I know). So back to cars: Nice and simple in handling and running because you can just put it on the street and go. The electro cars are very easy, just charge a battery and go. Not doing nitro anymore too much of a hassle. Breakdown? Just walk to it and pick it up. The simplicity of running the RC car is what does it for me.

3D printer was really fighting me today. Printed a new part for a printer belt tensioner first, as this was still on the to do list. That went well. Mounted the part, all looked good. But when I wanted to print a new strengthener plate for the Mugen Seiki the printer's Z axis did not calibrate. I knocked loose a Z stop switch wire, so had to get the soldering iron. Also had the problem that when adjusting setting on the printer, it would constantly reset itself. Finally tracked that down to the controls housing pinching the little reset switch that was out of sight on the bottom. So, after an hour's work, it's finally happily printing again. Just one of those days...

More attic insulation. I found a part in the roof next to the chimney that was not properly finished when the house was build in the 70s. No wonder cold air was always present in that area. Closed it off and started the wooden frame for insulation and sheetrock. So now I updated some 3D models for parts intended for the Mugen Seiki electrification. Center gearbox needs to be sealed so I can put some grease on those gears. Hopefully I have some time to print those tomorrow.

Finished insulating another section of the Ray-cave attic. I'm about one quarter finished now so plenty more to do. After that, there was some time to change 8 screws that were too short on the Duke Nukem Mighty Foot monstertruck. Took some time as getting to those screws required taking out 32 more screws first. Still worth it as I wanted 20 of those screws swapped out by new Allen key bolts as well so it was all in 1 go. This makes this monstertruck finished for now. As long as I don't drive it nothing can go wrong.

This got me thinking about when I got this car and body, indeed that could have been somewhere around 1995-1998.... Oh nice, am I really that old?

More Mugen Seiki electric conversion. It makes a so much easier car compared to nitro, just pop a lipo in and go! Trail fit of the strengthener bar, its needs a small adjustment and the front stiffner plate needs to be adapted. But overall, looking good. This gave me the oppertunity to make a small test drive with all electronics installed. It was fun to drive, seems very nippy on full throttle and a 2S shorty LIPO but there is room for 3S. So I need to finish it and take it outside when weather permits. Looking good with its original Calvin and Hobbs body and new allow wheels. Still one of my best paints. I have started a new body back in the days, it just needs its final color which I want to do in a deep metallic yellow. And I want lights, oh well someday....

Some golden M3 nuts, that were suppost to be M4. Need to learn to read properly someday... Light switches and a pinion I needed.

The ultrasonic cleaner got a lot of grime from the Mugen Seiki's shock parts, I polished the shock rods as they had some putting, so those can be re-assembled. The replacement pulley bracket for the 3D printer failed to print because the broken bracket failed completely halfway into the print. Luckily, I have a cunning plan to combine part of the failed print with a part of the old pulley, a combination that which will hopefully hold long enough to complete print the new bracket.

These sweet looking real alloy wheels for the Mugen Seiki.

Disassembled the old shocks of the Mugen Seiki Prime 12 chassis. Not sure what kind of shock oil I used in those days, but this stuff was very thick. Almost like a syrup... And drew a replacement belt tensioner for the 3D printer. So tomorrow is 3D printing and ultrasonic cleaner day.

Did a quick sketch of the rear strengthener for the Mugen Seiki electrification. Wanted to 3D print it, but so far: Printing head clogged. Belt guide failed. Fuses blew. It's one of those days again...

Xmas dinner at family got cancelled due to flu, so got some unexpected bonus time. 3D printed a prototype front strengthener/servo plate and vertical LIPO battery box for the Mugen chassis electric conversion. ESC will be in the front. Need to add a on-off switch mounting attachment and a place for the receiver. To-do first: Gear cover, back gearbox plate and a metal bar from front to rear to stop the chassis from flexing.

How much work is required to build a custom car. Changes in geometry, custom decals, 2 steps forward one step back. Very time and effort consuming.

Working on the brushless conversion of the Mugen Seiki Prime 12 nitro chassis, things are proceding well but where the .... did I put the ESC??? It's not in the same box as all the other stuff, no that would be too easy ... Edit: found it, need to decide on the final setup.

Cut the car shelf to size, and re-installed it. Cleaned the dust from the cars, so they sit nice and fresh on display again. Added the Marui Shogun, as it was still in storage after completion which is a shame for such a nice car. Also ordered some generic self tappers for the Duke Nukem Mighty Foot, 90 cents + 2.50 shipping, instead of the Tamiya tappers for 3 euro + 6 euro shipping. Such a shame LHS are sparse these days, everything is online ordering.

These 2 old school motors. Thought the type numbers look familiar.

That I need some 3x15 self tappers, which is a 3 euro bag but with 6 euro shipping costs...

Monster trucks for me, specifically with chevron tires. I have a (1st love car) Marui Big Bear, a Himoto basher Bear, the Big Bear themed Clodbuster, the Duke Nukem Mighty Foot Juggernaut and a lunchbox wheeled Grasshopper. 2 More Maruti Big Bears are hidden somewhere in storage awaiting better times.

After doing insulation work in my Ray Cave attic, I wanted to do some cleaning on the cars but could not find that brush-attachment for the vacuum cleaner. So switched to putting up the top shelf where some of the cars sit, but the shelf does not fit anymore because of the thick insulation. And because I was feeling under the weather for a few days already I took a Covid zelftest, which turned out positieve. So... Yeah not my best day so far.

A nice brushless/ESC combo I hope to use on a TNX chassis at some point. And came accross an extra Duke Nukem figure, can't have enough of those.

Wife has got a trip to a christmas market planned for sunday, please place your support or condolences below...

Ordered a brushless motor and ESC for a future project.