Ray_ve
-
Posts
584 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Ray_ve
-
-
I use a T150 charger that I got from Aliexpress, very happy with this charger.
Runs from AC power or external DC source, and can discharge and charge all battery types.
Has a touchscreen, all voltages, currents and temperatures are displayed real time on screen, be sure to also order the external temperature sensor.
The cooling fan can be noisy though. Only downside I found on it.
If you want, the T240 has dual charge capability.
-
A L298 can effectively handle about 2 amps of current.
I would use it up to a 380 size motor, but not for a 540 size Silvercan motor, its current draw is too high.
You would need a stronger H bridge chip, custom build H bridge made from MOSFETs, or as you do it is better to control an ESC which has all of that already inside.
-
Used the paint stripper on a Marui Big Bear body.
More rounds and detailing to do, but is comes along nicely.
-
2
-
-
Tried the Tamiya paint stripper on some Marui parts that needed the silver paint off.
This stuff works great! Only took me a few minutes per item.
-
1
-
-
Sounds to me like you enjoy the build to box-art part of the RC experiance a lot, other people like driving, I myself like building how I want them which usually means some modifications... and the occasional recreational drive.
So we all like RC, just different aspects of it.
-
2
-
1
-
-
With the gearset coming in today, I finally finished the Blazing Star that came in as a roller.
It has been stripped down completely, cleaned, and fully upgraded with:
- Tamiya 47373 Hard propellor shaft and aluminium motor mount.
- 17Tx2 motor, 1060 ESC, MG996R servo and receiver.
- 19T steel pinion.
- TA-02 full plastic gear set in the rear
- metal steering rack.
- Ball bearings.Only missing the servo saver at this point, a servo horn takes its place for now.
Hopefully, there will be a dry day this weekend, so it can take its first break-in spin.
-
4
-
-
58 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:
When you say the LEDs are on one series string - do you mean you have one string that has all the different LEDs on (brake, headlight, etc)? If so how does each LED know what its job is - do they have individual IDs of some sort? Or have I misunderstood? I've had a very quick glance at a data sheet for the WS2812 but I think I need to look in more detail.
The LEDs use 4 pins:
+5V and ground for power
Data in, this comes from the arduino or another LED's Data out
Data out.
The data out pin outputs the previous data of the LED, if the LED receives a new command. That is the trick.
Imagine 3 LEDs in series.
LED 1 has Data in to the arduino output.
LED2 has Data in to LED1 data out
LED 3 has Data in to LED2 data out
(Etc... Etc.... if you use more LEDs. The test set-up I had had something like 16 LEDs.)
In the Arduino program, you define the numer of LEDs, and a name for each LED so you can use names in the program. Much simpler then defining numbers.
When the Arduino wants to set All LEDs to red, it outputs:
1st command LED red. This is now in the first LED.
2nd command LED red, This is now in the first LED, and the first LED outputs the 1st command LED red to the second LED.
3rd command LED red, This is now in the first LED, and the first LED outputs the 2nd command LED red to the second LED, the second LED outputs the 1st command LED red to the third LED.
If you want to set the LEDs to Red (LED 1) - Green (led 2) - Blue (led 3):
1st command LED Blue. This is now in the first LED.
2nd command LED green, This is now in the first LED, and the first LED outputs the 1st command LED blue to the second LED.
3rd command LED red, This is now in the first LED, and the first LED outputs the 2nd command LED green to the second LED, the second LED outputs the 1st command LED blue to the third LED.
This all happens so fast, the LEDs seem to output the colors instantly. The delay in the string is very low.
Most of the commands are ahndeled by an arduino library, so you do not need to generate the serial data yourself. I'll look up the program, and post it.
-
1
-
-
The Tamico paint suppies, 17x2 motor and various.
And also the TA-01 full plastic gearset to put into the balazing star buggy.
First thing it says on the TA-01 gears manual: 'Not compatible with 1/10 off-road buggies.'!
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Mad Ax said:
Great stuff - did you hardcode the transmitter trim values or did you set any way to calibrate it? I'll probably go hardcoded to start with although my brain is already working out ways to capture the trim settings in a calibration mode.
I like the idea of getting different colours from the LEDs - saves having to mount lots of standalond LEDs and saves some outputs too.
When a RC car is turned ON, the arduino turns ON as well. And typically, throttle and steering are in neutral position at power up. So the program started by capturing the receivers pulse width output of throttle and steering, and use those values as zero reference for the remainder of the time that the arduino remains powered ON, until the car is switched OFF again.
The blinkers simply use neutral value plus or minus a hardcoded dead-band value before the blinkers turn on. So they only turn on after a specific steering angle, not for minimal steering corrections.
Throttle also turned on the high beam headlights from 75% throttle position to 100%. And reverse position from neutral the reverse lights.
Connections are minimal. +5V power and ground to the arduino. 2 lines to interrupt inputs for receiver throttle output and steering output. 1 data line output to the LEDs, these LEDs also re-transmit the incoming data to the next LED and so on, so they are all connected in 1 series string, +5V, ground, and 1 data line go to the arduino board.
Since the transmitters/receivers I use are pistol-grip whith an extra 3rd channel, this 3rd channel can be used to turn more features ON/OFF.
-
1
-
-
I experimented with an arduino.
Captured the throttle and steering signals, and used this input to set the colors of WS2812 LEDs.
These LEDs can be set to any color and brightness via arduino. So imagine the following:
Tail lights, low intensity red for normal light, bright red for brake. From red to blinking orange for indicators, or white for reverse lights.
front lights, white or blueish cold white or yellowish white, whatever color suits the specific car style.
Side lights, from low intensity white to blinking orange for indicators.
You can even have the car lighting gradually change color depending on throttle setting.
If anyone is interested, I'll post the schematic and code.
edit: Another plan I had was to limit steering angle with increased throttle setting, the Arduino can map this too if you control the steering servo via the arduino. Saves me a programmable transmitter.
-
1
-
-
Only encountered the occessional wild dog while driving a rc car, they start as tame home dogs but turn wild when they see a fast moving target.
Here in the Netherlands, a fox is about the biggest predator thing you'll find, but the wolf is making a comeback recently.
Buddy of mine ran into some elephants in a local park/beach/lake area where we used to live as kids. A circus had arrived and the guy was taking them out for a stroll. They love playing in water.
I think I did have a duck or swan attack an rc boat I had, that's wat you get during breeding season...
-
2
-
1
-
-
Disassembled and ultrasonic cleaned all shocks off the blazing star. So those can be re-assembled when dry.
And ordered paint supplies for the Samurai and a 17Tx2 motor for the blazing star at Tamico.
Hopefully, the all-plastic gear set will also come in next week, so I can re-assemble the rear gearbox.
-
Cleaned the gears for the front gearbox of the blazing star. So I can re-assemble that end. All other parts except shocks are already clean and ready.
Also, got the front-end of an original Marui Big Bear cleaned up and build up.
All black suspension plastics were painted silver, got nearly all of it off.
-
2
-
-
The hop-up driveshafts for the Blazing Star, from our ebay friend Tony.
Alll I need now is a servo saver (ordered), and the plastic gear set (ordered too).
-
1
-
-
Little progress as I was deciding on the paint job.
But I'm going to keep it simple with a modern touch.
All red plastics will be metallic red, as will the body and wing. The frame aluminium silver.
-
4 hours ago, Juggular said:
Being a Stormtrooper, the question would be... can he drive straight? Or is he always going to miss the road?
Given my driving skills, I don't need the trooper to mess up my car.
-
3
-
-
Did some DIY stuff in house, so some stored supplies in the mancave are now gone.
Finally some room to set some cars on show, on top of the closets.
-
4
-
-
A barely used Konghead.
It even included a driver figure!
-
4
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 11/22/2018 at 7:30 AM, Ray_ve said:
I told myself I have enough cars.
So today I bought 2 more.....
I'm an idiot.
Aaaaaaaaaand
I did it AGAIN!
Last one. Really..........................................
-
1
-
1
-
3
-
-
As parts for the blazing star came rolling in, I started stripping and cleaning as it is a very simple chassis.
The car came in as a complete roller in standard form, but the list of parts and upgrades to get it in the right shape is becoming quite extensive
-Ball bearings
-Receiver, ESC, servo
-aluminium steering rack upgrade, to get rid of the free play
-Aluminium motor mount and propshaft kit.
-TA-01 full plastic gear set to get rid of the aluminium gears in the rear gearbox.
-Steel pinion gear
And I’m still missing the servo posts and servo saver!
Aaaaaaargh
-
On my leopard tank, I used 2 ESCs, 1 per motor.
The ESCs were connected to the receiver via a model plane 'V tail' mixer. This type of mixer mixes up-down and left-right steering into the appropriate movements for plane with a V-shaped type tail, that has the rudder and elevation combined into 2 moving planes that need to move in a combined motion.
This specific mix also matches the movement you want on tank tracks, so the transmitter can use a forward-backward stick and a left-right stick, just like a car. And no special settings are needed on the transmitter.
edit: The tamiya tank was modified so it runs 2 motors, instead of the 1 motor and clutch.
-
1
-
2
-
-
9 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
Yes. The blazing star I bought it was broken despite the car being completely mint otherwise. There's a Manta Ray hop up kit from tamiya with metal mount and top force upgraded prop shaft to replace the coat hanger.
Sounds familiar, my 2nd hand blazing star has the exact same problem.
I just ordered the Tamiya 47373 kit on ebay from our friend Tony.
And I'll get a steel pinion instead of the aluminium one.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Good haul this week, the 11-11 sale items start coming in.
A WP1060-RTR ESC for the Blazing star, A WP860 Dual motor ESC and bearings for the bullhead chassis, Some M4 flanged nuts and ball ends for general use, and a 6800mAh NiMh battery that will only charge to 2500mAh (Oh you crazy chinese marketing people....
)
Not listed, 3 MG996R Servos for the bullhead/blazing star, and a metal steering rack for the Blazing star.
Only thing needed to get started.... free time!
-
SBEC is a switching BEC system.
A normal BEC is simply a low-drop linear regulator. The regulation of the voltage drop from 7.2V battery to 5V output is achieved by simply converting the unwanted escess power to heat. Simple, but not efficient in terms of power savings and excess heat.
SBEC is a modern switching regulator (like phone chargers, PC power supply). The regulation is achieved by a circuit (BUCK regulator) that switches its input ON/OFF rapidly, to maintain a steady output voltage. This switching causes very little (compared to linear) power loss as no heat is generated, making it more effecient in terms of power savings and excess heat.
I'll install mine in my Blazing star, when I stripped that down for cleaning and ball bearing conversion. Probably sometime next spring when I get around to it. Too many project, too little time.
-
1
-
So, What Have You Done Today?
in General discussions
Posted
Finally had a moment to take the blazing star for its first drive after re-assembly.
Drives ok. Could use a bit more punch and top speed.
Guess I need to get one of those lipos that fit a 7.2v battery compartment.