Yonzariq

Been quite a while... I've switched the 8.5t to the Konghead and put the 10.5t in the TT-02R. Konghead is a blast with the 8.5t! Still has plenty of speed for what I am looking for, mainly use this car to trash around gymkhana style on cheap AliExpress wheels and tyres. With this driving and power it manages to destroy a set of tyres in about 3 to 4 lipo's Ordered 25 sets at once a few months ago when they were on sale, so I got wheels for about €1,50 for 4 and tyres for €3,75 for 4 making €5,25 for a set of 4 complete wheels, not a bad deal. Also had a Kamtec Escort Cosworth shell on it for a few months, but that had very bad fitment, was very thin/weak and torn apart in a rollover. So now it is standing without a body again as I cannot decide what body I want and the HPI I wanted is nowhere in stock Also got some upgrades on the to buy list, really want that Tamiya aluminium steering rack to remove quite a bit of play in the stock setup.

A lot of people do have good experiences with it though, but not me. Mine had to be calibrated about every other day. Until one day both steering and throttle were unable to calibrate as it could not recognize the center anymore.

Before quitting the hobby years ago I was using a stick radio (Spektrum DX6i) for years with my crawlers. Stopped with those for a few years and then got back into it after starting out with FPV drones as a new hobby, bought a cheap wheel radio from banggood but kept having issues so I went back to sticks again. But this time with the FrSky X9D+ I was also using for my FPV drones. Works fantastic but with all of the new regulations in place I sold all of my FPV stuff including the radio. Bought a cheap stick radio, but could not get my crawler working with the receivers. Tried another somewhat better quality wheel radio and got used to it quite fast, but that radio stopped working after only a few months of use (RadioLink RC6G) Then decided to buy a proper quality radio (Spektrum DX5 Rugged) and moved everything over to that one, and still happily using it.

I am currently using the stock pinion, haven't decided on the final gearing yet, but might go 1 or 2 tooth smaller on the pinion for some better acceleration. If that still feels too fast I will probably switch it with the 10.5t which is currently in my Konghead. The first testrun with very cheap and soft AliExpress slicks was quite good. Very fast but controllable and still able to pull of some nice rally/gymkhana style drifts. Even though it was on a quite rough brick road. I actually like that body hahah. Will probably order a 98 Impreza WRC from HPI for mine.

I have quite a few different type of cars, but one of the last few things that was missing for me was a road/rally car. So I bought myself a nice new kit and some aluminium hexes: First few steps done, fitment is great and Tamiya blue parts are always good to see: Everything went together smoothly and I totally forgot to take more pics: Next up are the shocks, looking good and feeling really smooth, but might need a tad lighter oil in the future: Also got some wheels and tyres in from AliExpress, pretty cheap so I will see how those hold up: Next up, fitting and testing all of the electronics: Spektrum SR215 receiver QuicRun 10BL120 120A Sensored ESC QuicRun 3650SD G2 8.5t Sensored motor Turnigy 1250TG low profile servo Zippy 5000mah 2s lipo And done, it runs fantastic, but now stands waiting for a body and inner cover to be delivered:

Started on my TT-02R build:

Nice Tamico order with a TT-02R and some aluminium wheel hexes.

I hope so, this is the one I have always wanted to add to my collection some day

Looking around me, most people only want a few things for "bashing". - Fast brushless preferably 6s or more - Wheelies all day - Hard to break So yeah, for that you easily end up with a Traxxas or Arrma, as they just are tougher than a standard Tamiya and indeed are able to handle the high power brushless systems better, but even these brands also still carry brushed models. Tamiya has vehicles designed for other purposes than just go fast and bash, and that is what I like most about them, most of them are unique in their own way. In a lot of situations the intended use suits a brushed motor just fine. But I also have brushless in my Tamiya's, some for a bit more speed, and some for more efficiency compared to the same speed brushed motors. In the past I could not go to a meeting with those "bashers" with one of my Tamiya's without hearing at least one of the following: - Buy a real car, Tamiya is for kids - Tamiya is weak - Brushed is ancient and you need brushless to have fun - Tamiya is old tech for crazy high prices And the fun part was that most of the time my "brushed Tamiya kids toy" was faster around the track than a lot of the brushless Traxxas or Arrma vehicles as they were too much overpowered to use on the track and were constantly missing jumps and/or corners. Now having found a great group of locals who just meet up and have fun instead of measuring who has the best and/or most expensive RC. They really enjoy the hobby and love to see my Tamiya's even though most of them wouldn't build or buy one themselves.

Do you have any info on both the old and the new servo? Possibly the new servo isn't strong enough to move the wheels?

Wish they added this sheet in my Super Clod box, had a hard time mounting those things...

I read a lot on here that people say to change the pinions to steel ones. While on some of the facebook groups I am in people advise to keep them stock and change them every once in a while as the steel ones will destroy the other gears which take much more time to replace. What would be the correct route? If you are going to run LiPo I would also get a better ESC, I got the QuicRun 880 which has a built-in LiPo cut-off. After a few runs I really disliked the stock steering setup so I moved the servo to the front with an Arch Fabrication Servo mount bumper and locked the rear. Even with the locked rear it steers better this way than with the stock setup

I haven't had a lot of time for running the Clod due to moving house, but got some spare time again so I took it for a spin. Still feels great with those GoolRC motors on 2s. But one thing that bothers me is that the bolts which hold on the front bumper scratch the front of the body, cannot find how to resolve this or what I did wrong. Now was the paintjob pretty bad, not sure why but I can easily scratch of the current paint, so I will repaint the body, but I want to stop the front from scratching easily. Also still looking for a custom chassis, but I am in doubt between the SouthWest Monstershop KK3 and UKMonsters Razor V2.1. Both look fantastic and extend the Clod to 13.5" wheelbase. Not looking for extreme bashing or racing, just a good looking chassis as the Clod is my go to cruise/show truck on local RC meetups. For bashing I have other trucks, and the solid axle MT freestyle/racing scene is non existent around here

Got most of the Konghead done, now need to finetune the electronics and finish the body.

I saw someone on here use it. Was thinking the same at that moment and had the chassis in before I even ordered the kit