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Yalson

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About Yalson

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  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Kyosho Optima Mid and Lazer ZX-R, Marui Hunter and Galaxy RS, Tamiya Grasshopper and Hornet, random RC bits and pieces

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  1. That is completely insane. But also amazing. I love the fact that in the 80s, people were trying all kinds of mad things. This was also presumably an inspiration for the Kyosho Maxxum FF that came afterwards. It's a wonderful and crazy thing, though. And they would have known that when they built it, because the laws of physics mean that there is no way this would ever really work.
  2. Pinions are a tricky subject with Kyosho models, as they used different pitches in different models and there is often a lot of confusion as to what pitch each model is. I know that Kyosho Optima Mids used to use .6 module pitch pinions and spurs, but being a less race-suited model the Raider may have used a bigger pitch with bigger teeth, like 32dp. I actually have a second-hand Raider that I bought a while back but I don't currently have it to hand to check. What I can tell you is that replacement pinions can be found on eBay in the original 14t (part no OT-51), 15t (OT-24), 16t (OT-52) and 17t (OT-53), but you may have to import them from the US and pay a lot of postage. I think the OT part number suggests it is a part originally conceived for the original Optima, though, meaning it would be a 32dp gear. If it is, then you can use any 32dp pinions and you don't have to stick to original Kyosho parts. You may want to upgrade to hardened steel versions, though, as the ally ones tend to wear quite badly and fill your gearbox with metal sludge.
  3. Are they for another scale? 1/8 nitro off-road or something similar? Other than that, no idea. I don't recognise the moulded raised lettering from anything I know.
  4. Splendid. Thanks for the advice. When I finally get around to trying mine I will be very careful and take it slow.
  5. Ooh, I bought one of those last year and haven't got around to using it yet. Was it difficult?
  6. There are second-hand ones out there on eBay, but they are incredibly expensive. If they don't have all the parts you might be better off using something else. They used to be the best shocks available in the early 90s, but if you have other options I'm sure more viable replacements can be obtained now.
  7. The short shocks in 5/6 look like they might be Kyosho Gold shocks. Nice score of they are. They have the springs set really hard, for some reason.
  8. That's interesting. I had been pondering what the handling characteristics were, as I had read some other drivers' experiences on here who had suggested increased speeds lead to lift and difficult handling. But I think most were buggies or touring cars that would obviously have different issues to your 416, which seems pretty much dialled in. I had even thought out a method of creating a simple gound effect package, which would help keep a 1:10 car at least stuck to the road when travelling in a straight line on a flat surface, although it would not work in a racing environment as it would be too fragile. It seems you have got some of it already (flat floor, nose-down attitude, semi-faired arches) but there are probably other elements which might help with either reducing drag, increasing downforce or both. One which you could do easily would be to leave the rear arches faired in, which would reduce drag around that area. it would probably require the rear body to be stiffened, but the weight/drag reduction trade-off might be worth it. You could do the same at the front for double the effect, but that obviously has more consequences as it might reduce steering lock. It can be done, though. And has been in 1:1 scale.
  9. Loved this. Pushing a Tamiya to the very limits of its design possibilities. If you want to try and break 50mph, try cutting down the rear shell to the level of the rest of the body and covering over the hole as you have done with the cockpit. Although the rear section seems to have slats in it to let the air through, it will still be contributing to frontal area and acting like a shuttlecock and slowing you down. Also, cut the front wings off, as they will be acting like parachutes and also creating lift, which might be contributing to the flips you mentioned. I am torn over the front wing. There is another thread on here somewhere about aerodynamics, in which someone linked to a podcast in which a Schumacher designer admitted that 1:10 RC wings for the most part create no downforce at all, and are instead used to create drag in order to allow cars – especially buggies – to fly straight over jumps. Normally this makes no difference, as buggies run over rough ground at relatively low speeds, meaning that aero effects aren't important to what they need to do. However, you are getting up towards 50mph, which is around the area at which these things do start making a difference. It could be that the extra wing is creating enough drag that it starts trying to rotate the chassis around the rear axle. On its own you probably wouldn't notice it, but if it has a habit of doing that anyway, then it might be making that worse. However, you clearly say in the video that it seems to have helped, so if that is the case I am clearly talking out of my hat and just go with what feels right. Another thing that might have helped is the bigger rear wheels and tyres. Bigger wheels effectively increase the final drive ratio, meaning you go further and faster with every revolution of the wheels. If you can find some even taller ones, it might just put you over the line. Although the downside of bigger wheels is that it will also raise the centre of gravity, making it twitchier to drive and more likely to roll over. Worth thinking about, though. Great to watch. I look forward to the next one.
  10. Wow. That does look absurdly quick. How does it handle at that speed? Is it trying to lift, or is it heavy enough for it not to be bothered by that? The uprated components seem pretty chunky, but I can't tell from the vid if the increased mass is cancelling out the inevitable desire for it to start taking off at that speed. It has no obvious downforce components and no underbody to speak of, so unless that ESC fan is also sucking it down like on the Brabham BT46B, then I am guessing it must be a bit lively at 140mph+. Great work, though. It's a magnificent thing to see it go.
  11. I think my Dad has some at home of us racing at the Smoke House track. I will see if I can dig them out the next time I go up and see him.
  12. Is that Home Alone on in the background? Ha ha! We watched that the other week. My daughter loved the slapstick bits.
  13. Theoretically, yes. But in practice you will inevitably be a bit off centre and you will end up with wheels that are off centre and make your car drive like a rodeo bull.
  14. BITD I used to run a hand-wound 12x2 in my Mid on-road competitions with a pretty stock drivetrain. Never had any issues with it, apart from it sometimes eating idler gears and once a 64dp spur. And I know other drivers who used to run even hotter winds than that. I think a 10x1 was the lariest wind I saw used in a local meeting, although I know there were motors down to 8x2 available. Back then it was more a problem of ensuring your battery lasted, rather than whether your gearbox could take it.
  15. Is that... a spray can lid?
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