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About Yalson

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    London, UK
  • Interests
    Kyosho Optima Mid and Lazer ZX-R, Marui Hunter and Galaxy RS, Tamiya Grasshopper and Hornet, random RC bits and pieces

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  1. Well there you go. Apologies for my response to @dannymulder's suggestion, but I couldn't picture his solution in my mind. And I also think Dutch bread must come in different packaging!
  2. Ah. Just had a look at your build thread, so ignore my previous posting about 2WD hubs. Also saw that the car was imported from the US, so taking it back is maybe not an option. It might be that you have to source some new alternative-spec hubs instead.
  3. Are these ballraces or plain bushings we're talking about? It sounds like Tamiya have bought a consignment of bearings of whatever sort and they are just fractionally too small for the mounts, or just the wrong bearings. If you bought the kit from a physical shop then I would take the affected parts back and show them the problem. They may be able to give you some replacement bearings, replacement hubs or better advice on what to do. If they are 2WD front hubs and the bearings are just sliding out of the recesses in the hubs, rather than obviously the wrong size, then you might be able to pack out the front axle with washers to keep them in place while running. I had a set of after-market front hubs on a Grasshopper that had a similar problem. The bearings were the right size for them, but manufacturing differences meant the hubs wouldn't hold them in place. We put washers on the front stub axles to hold the bearings in and they worked fine.
  4. I agree that this would work if the bearing was already a snug fit and you're just trying to hold it in place (I have heard of this technique being used in other situations) but glueing in a bearing that is fundamentally the wrong size is never going to work for all kinds of reasons.
  5. If Mazda had known the headaches they would be causing future modellers when they created that paintjob for the Le Mans 787, maybe they would have had mercy on us and just painted it plain orange.
  6. If the bearing is not snug with the recess, then glueing it is not going to help the wheel run true. If you glue it, then you are effectively fixing it in a place so that it will inevitably be fixed in an orientation that is not square to the rest of the model. Imagine a vinyl record spinning on a turntable. If the hole in the centre of the record is too big (which is effectively what is happening to your wheel if the bearing is not snug with the hub), then the disc can move about and detrimentally affect the sound. If you glue the bearing in, then you will inevitably glue it in slightly off centre, with the bearing touching one wall of the recess but not the other. If we return to the record analogy, you have now set up a situation where the hole in the middle is the right size (so the record can't move about) but it is now permanently off-centre, meaning the sound now has built-in problems as some sections of the disc move more quickly in relation to the needle than others. Even worse, your wheel works in two dimensions, so glueing it in will inevitably mean it is permanently slightly buckled, too. I think the only answer is to get new bearings.
  7. Wow. I don't think I have ever seen an RC car doing 128mph that close before. It is absurdly fast. I have to admit, though, that I thought when you got in the car and pulled away, you were going to look over and see the 416 overtaking you.
  8. No problem. I don't remember what you said that may have been considered grumpy, but worry no more about it. We all have stuff going on. Hope everything is going better now for you.
  9. Ah, right you are. I stand corrected.
  10. Not just any GH2, either, but a Super G! Nice work @Tamegin.
  11. Both the 906 and the Cobra are lovely shells and you have done great work with them. The 906 is particular is new to me. I know of the 1:1 car, but I have never seen the 1:10 version, so it's a joy to see it rendered so well here.
  12. I suppose you could. Is it worth it, though? If it is a proper, fixed-timing stocker, then the amount of extra performance you'd get out of such an operation would be minimal. Back when BRCA*-mandated 27T £15 motors were a thing, although fitting bearings might have provided a little extra run time in an era of 1200mah SCRs, doing so would have rendered the motor ineligible for competition. Nowadays, with batteries of up to 5000mah capacity, runtime isn't really an issue and machine-wound brushed motors are so cheap they're virtually disposable. So have a go by all means, if the technical challenge interests you. But I wouldn't expect much in the way of tangible returns for your efforts. *ROAR in the US, although I imagine their stock motor rules may have been different.
  13. I have seen NiCads fail in a fairly spectacular fashion, but almost always because of inexperienced drivers unintentionally shorting them out. That said, I also once saw a very experienced racer accidentally drop a spanner across the terminals of a 12v car battery he was using to charge his race packs, with hugely spectacular results.
  14. Not sure about placement on those for the Mid. The Mid had a cluster of three holes on a flat, raised extension, meaning the lower spring collar had adequate clearance to avoid fouling the suspension arm at full extension in all three holes. The holes here are flush with the swept-back angle of the arm, meaning that the lower spring collar may foul the arm when attached to the outer hole, especially given that I believe Mid shocks have a wider bore than those used on the original Optima. I'd need someone else to check that, though, as I don't have a Mid to hand at the moment.
  15. You see, @garthxv01, this is the sort of thing you end up involved with on here.
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