Fabia130vRS
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Posts posted by Fabia130vRS
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8 hours ago, Shergar said:Nice little review. Word of warning, I have a truck with an SCX10 transmission and TRX4 axles, you get twice the gear reduction so it will be R E A L L Y S L O W ! Its also really noisy! You might need to play around with transmission gearing. Another source for genuine TRX4 axles is Jenny’s. Ive had plenty of parts shipped no problems. https://jennysrc.com
Thank you for the warning.
Well... I am already now worried about the outcome.
Last night I posted,, about ordering 2 Mini Servos with mounts, just later to edit the reply above and delete it, cancel the servos and mounts...
why? here...
The axels most likely will be delivered, as REPLECEMENT for TRX4 axels, there will be no locking mechanism in the differential axel.
I will get front and rear axels with differential open, no way to lock it. So I will take apart both and try to do something about it... most probably add the diff stopers from my diff to this one I will get.
@Shergar, the TRX replacement diffs come with a diff ratio (including portal gears) of 5.59, while the FTX has 2.66
the FTX overall has a gear ratio FDR 54 : 1, now it would skyrocket to 56,93 : 1 FDR.
While the TRX has two speeds, FDR is for 1st gear: 64.64:1, 2nd gear: 25.85:1
This difference may be great, we will see. It is slow and loud already
Edit: at some point I want to put a brushless crawler combo in it, higher FDR might be a good thing.
Even If I could use my crown gear and drive gear pinion, with the portal axel ration I would still end up at a FDR of 56.55
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I had this car back in the day when I made this account.
Here you can spot it in the back of the picture.
Silver DU692HO, do not own it anymore. It was a end of 2003, Škoda Fabia mk1 vRS, 1.9 TDI PD, 130hp
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17 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:I too have heard of poor quality but have direct experience. I have some regular Injora axles but haven't used them yet.
I would suggest stripping them down, inspecting the gears for burrs, etc and then re-assembling with high quality waterproof grease of your choice.
Hope all works well!
Definitely, thank you for the heads up.
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SO...
after a year that I own the FTX now, I did upgrade a few things like...
1. ARC Servo 14kg 0.04msec (super fast and precise)
2.Metal drive shafts 3x
3. Ebay Deep dish wheels Metal
4. Louise CR Rowdy tires 1.9 45mm wide 121mm height
5. Trail lights under the chassis
6. Harder front springs
7. 45gr weights on the tail
8. Aluminium Sway bar upper mount
Here you can see the difference in front and rear springs, more weight in the front did call for harder springs, managed to find some of a nitro buggy that fit.
I run it on 3s, with my buddy who owns a TRX, I can say, surprisingly with wider tires, the FTX is unstoppable, it is not heavy like the TRX and climbs easily over everything, not very realistically but with ease.
Now I decided to upgrade to portal axels, I opted for the most advanced but also cheapest option, thanks to ALI Express, I managed to snag a Injora Portal Axel set for 49€ including shipping. (they are rebranded to some 'Austarhobby' brand, but are identical, also advertised as 'Metal front and rear portal axel set'
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That's a bargain compared to the cheapest on ebay to be around 65€
They are a direct clone of the TRX axels, it can lock the diffs, if I don't use the cable they will remain unlocked, making it unable to crawl.
I will need to install two micro servos into a Y lead and use the auxiliary port on the RX to operate them.
Can't wait to get my hand on the and see if the fit easily, I already know there might be a issue with the drive shaft connection hole.
I don't know how it will affect speed, as the differential gear ratios are the same as on the TRX.
Any thoughts and experience with these axels? I heard different stories about their quality...
If this works out, I would switch to 2.2 wheels, they might fit with portal axels. But first I need the two micro servos, get them working and proceed.
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Got a Hobbywing 10BL120 for the FF03 fitted, paired with a Speed Passion 6.5T.
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Made out of a led strip piece, traillights for the FTX Hi Rock.
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So after some almost a year, the FTX holds up really well, small upgrades here and there nothing too noticable.
The other day I removed the not in function roof lights... placed a aluminium bar and put a dark sticker over it!
The newest addition are trail lights under the chassis!
Cut a few pieces of led strips...
This is it finished! It will run off the lipo balancer cord.
I tested the truck on 3s today, more top end speed and nice power. Uses very little power, so lights will not affect run time.
(7,2V nimh, lights dimmed)
(3s - lights super bright)
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Today I removed the roof light reflectors. They aren't in function anyways, now that they are taken down... It is a nice opportunity to find a neat way to put some bulbs into it.
I used a 5mm aluminium tube to replace the missing lights.
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Instead of painting it (it certainly will get scratched), I used a sticker.
Before
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Thank you.
I have currently at home a combination of 114T Spur and 25T pinion. In 64P
that gives me a FDR of 9,57:1
Should work!
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I was thinking of putting a spare 6.5t speed passion motor into a FF03, what gearing would you guys recommend for higher speeds ?
this is a rather hot motor as I understand.
I would use rather 48P gearing.
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So... I truly now can say. My FTX Hi Rock is the superior vehicle over my friend's TRX4. It takes everything.
I also mounted a ACE RC 'ThunderTIger' DS1015 servo, fast thing, almost like touring car steering.
I bought the Louise CR- Rowdy 1.9 tires and RC4WD china deep dish rims.
https://i.imgur.com/GQOxN97.mp4 (video)
The FTX Hi Rock is wider-tends to tip over to the side with original wheels, and the new tires are like balloons and grip perfect on steep climbs.
Front shocks got harder springs as the vehicle is pretty nose heavy, the rear damper mounts got raised for one hole, making the rear higher, which is good so the bumper does not catch the ground.
My friend's TRX got aluminum bead lock wheels, they seem a bit of lighter, his tires are RC4WD Mickey Baja PRO.
The TRX being very top-heavy and bumpers very low, just struggles.
A few pictures of yesterday.
A few pictures of yesterday.
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For the FTX Hi Rock Crawler, to replace plastic shafts.
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Installed metal drive shaft axles on my crawler.
Changed for my FF03 speed run vehicle the CVD axles, as previous where really bend. The car wasn't running a few weeks until I got time for this.
It was kind of a mix and match thing, two CVD axels from Xray and two CVD cups from LRP with missing parts.
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A few pictures from our last drive.
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A new upgrade for the FTX Hi Rock arrived.
Metal drive shafts, they are heavier, and I hope more durable, didn't have any issues with the plastic ones.
All installed.3x
Both on the car
8.50USD each from ebay.
As visible on the last picture, I have added harder springs in the front, as the car is front heavy.
Once ALU wheels with wider tires arrive, they will add much more weight.
I am also thinking to buy metal portal axles. That would complete the truck.
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1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:Plenty of brushless motors run on 3S. I have ones that run on 8s. However a 6.5t is quite a high KV, so on 3S it will probably rev too high. A 6.5T is around 6400kv, a fully charged 3S would spin this around 75000rpm….. And most 6.5Ts arent built for that. Ideally you want 3500kv and below for 3S running. For more speed usimg more voltage, ideally youd want a lower KV and gear up to take advantage of a lower kv motor’s higher torque.
This sounds pretty much like it!
In your opinion if I go on motor gearing with 1:1 I have a 72T spur and 71T pinion on a 3800kv motor, the LRP Vector x11 10,5T . with internal ratio 2.6 so a total FDR of 3.61 in this case. I believe 3800 is too high, I might rather use something like 1800-2500kv up to 4s in this case, maybe. In the meaning of speed runs.
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I know it is a old thread, but what is stopping a brushless motor from running on 3s. Could a Speed Passion 6.5T motor run on 3s ?
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1 hour ago, OnTheTrail said:While this doesn't fit the "what have you done" topic, I always wondered why the on and off road RC car industry doesn't use bead lock type wheels? If you need to keep a tire on a rim but at the same time very well may wear out the tire, wouldn't it be better to "clamp" the tire on there so you can reuse the wheel and no hassles/mess of gluing on the tires? The RC rock crawlers have adapted to this years ago with most aftermarket wheels and even some stock ARFs. My second car kit (Sand Scorcher) when I got back into this hobby had bead locks so I thought that maybe this was the norm on this side too.
Guess I was wrong.....
I do not see gluing tires as a big ''issue''.
Practice makes perfect.
I am playing with my S18 Buggy, trying an 2435 8200kv, to see if it will work. Also instaled is the Traxxas 2mm pinion I got in the mail last week.
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2 hours ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:Love the Sport body on there, I did the same. It's a great looking body imo and looks fantastic with the IFS kit. I hope you don't mind a pic..
All of my kits use the steel pivot balls. My steering is nice and tight on all three - it does make a difference for sure. I've never tried the plastic ones but experience with Axial kits shows the plastic balls wear out very quickly. After just one run, all of my links were loose.
Tell me more about these bumpers, I want the exact same for my Hilux... are those 80$ piece? First when I saw the price I thought it's a real 1:1 bumper
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2 hours ago, bRIBEGuy said:The rubber bands do a good job of keeping the rubber tire pressed up evenly against the rim, so from a strength/performance aspect they work well. What they do NOT do is make it any harder for me to spill CA all over the place making it look like junk anyway.
It took me a few tires sets and a couple of years to evolve a good technique.
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So, What Have You Done Today?
in General discussions
Posted
Wow, this is a nice colour. Reminds me of the original VW colour.