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Posts posted by Fabia130vRS
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10 minutes ago, OnTheTrail said:Size wise, no,not a huge difference. While the MST performs surprisingly well for such small scale tires (I made my own foams as the stock foams weren't very good at all), the TRX is an amazing crawler for the scale appearance. That said, I've got a quite a bit of brass down low to help with the top heavy body. For me, I absolutely love the remote locking diffs. Makes a big difference performance wise to if you know when to use them.
While I'm not sure of the parts support or aftermarket add-ons for the FTX on your side of the pond, I would recommend you went with a TRX4 for your firsts crawler/trail rig. As others have said, they very durable, parts and aftermarket support is almost nonending. The TRX4 sport RTR is a terrific value out of the box. You can slowly upgrade the electronics if they give you issues but I'd say buy, drive it and then upgrade as you need.
Yes, I see what you are saying.
It may not be the best choice to the FTX, but I still am convincing myself it was a good deal.
I don't want to say too much, I am pretty excited. I don't think the FTX has really any cons except the plastic drive shaft pin, also as I understand this hobby... the crawler hobby...
I could eventually install traxxas axles onto any crawler similar size or not?
Yes brass weights and so on I havent found, There are some parts on ebay... but thats it?
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Few days and I will find out. I am perfectly fine with a trail car, if it performs well its ok. Myself had always a soft spot for the Toyota Hilux.
I was really unsure about the Bushido, I always had on my mind it’s like a m chassis but looks 1/10 and I don’t know just weird. The MST Jimny for example is more proportional for in size.
I was basically choosing between 300€ RTR kits and 400€ rtr kits.
I found in the 300€ range the Element Sendero (low end element), Carisma SCA-1E, FTX outback 329€
400€ range, MST CFX J4 Jimny and D1, Bushido Element (great upgrades short wb) and I do not remeber what else.
I believe the FTX may be the car that needs the least upgrades out of the box.
until something breaks it should be fine. i really dont know anything about crawlers tbh and I believe it is quite individual.
the body does look really nice with litghts included and all. I did notice the FTX aluminium and plastics may not looks so nice and probably questionable quality idk. Design wise I think it is a masterpiece
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Not a huge difference. Thank you!
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1 hour ago, mtbkym01 said:Looks great in the video, is it RTR?
Yes, it comes with a Hobbywing 40A esc and 550 17T brushed motor.
I do not know what servo it is, but it should be 15kg. I have been researching RTR crawlers for weeks now, and this is pretty much standard RTR crawler electronics,they are all more or less the same in an RTR. Expectations for this 40A esc are somewhat higher than for the Reedy 40A esc in the element kits. Even tho it should be a replica.
I really like the weight ditribution, it is a special chassis. You don't often see the motor next to the servo an the gearbox in the middle bottom, the battery tray can be moved forward. it comes with charger and 2000mAh nimh battery. The radio is cheap-ish but I believe a 4 channel. I might put my sanwa RX inside.
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I bought this as my first crawler. I think it is a great deal, €329 and €6,90 for shipping is great. Compared to my friend who is new to the hobby and bought a TRX4 Defender a charger and two 2s lipos for around € 700
https://www.eurorc.com/product/26027/ftx-outback-hi-rock-4x4-110-trail-crawler-rtr
It was the last piece and I didn't want to waste time more... I think it should compare good to the trx4.
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2 hours ago, sosidge said:Why?
I watched a lot of reviews, the esc seems very simple and not really programed for crawling. Or not sensitive as it should be.
I could use that RTR esc in something else, so I do not see a problem with upgradeing that part.
As for the motor, this reedy 27T does not really produce any drag brake.
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The LRP Spin esc arrived from rckleinkram, super cheap, 100A, up to 4S, so far I installed it and tested it on the room floor. Nice and smooth. on 2S.
with an MuchMore 13,5T Zero Timing Fleta ZX V1 3200kV
This is for my speed run project, I also have orderd a CRC Gold Standard 71T 64P pinion, which will be used on the 72T 64P CRC spur.
Going down low as final FDR 3,61 currently 60T 64P / 72T 64P final FDR 3,80
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A new ESC
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I am searching for a new crawler and found stuff here super cheap.
Looks like scam? Has anybody heard of it before?
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Yes, been two days researching the absima and carisma. The absima sherpa compared tot he trx4 is terribel.
the carisma with the land rover body is inded smaller overall than the trx4.
The bushido is my first choice. so far it is a higher price kit, comes with more upgrades. Will definately need a different motor and esc.
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1 minute ago, alvinlwh said:Oh, can't help with that since I had not even started building it yet nor do I have a TRX4 to compare it against. Sorry.
One thing I think though is €320 seems high, I got mine for £199. Where are you shipping from and to?
it is the cheapest offer I can find.I am buying from Germany. I live in Europe Croatia
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2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:Just bought one 2 weeks ago. Seems pretty good for its price from TTM. Neil said it beat the CR and he could have sold me a CR for more money, he did not. Any particular aspect of the kit you want to know about? I can dig it out and try to get you an answer.
I am mostly interested how does in compare to a trx4 defender body? smaller? the wheelbase is small,? 285m vs 313 on the trx4
I have plans of getting it for 320€ shipped.
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Could somebody share thoughts on the Carisma SCA-1E 1981 Range Rover?
I found it on a really good discount and am pretty sure it might be it.
Also, has anybody expirience with the Absima Sherpa? as I see it comes with remote locking diffs and 2 speed also... like the trx4?
I found a used sherpa with charger and two quality lipo batteries with Hobbywing 1080 and other upgrades. 335€ sounds a good deal for a full rtr with upgrades but used tho.
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I am honestly torn between these 2.
https://tamico.de/Element-RC-Enduro-Bushido-RTR
the Bushido comes with lots of upgrades compared to the 320euro base model.
https://tamico.de/MST-Crawler-CFX-WS-DC1-RTR-Dunkelblau
this one looks just great for the same price, not sure how the double slipper clutch operates, but is this better or worse then the element?
Also my friend has bought the TRX4 Defender in gray, it should arrive next week. I am wondering, how do these above cars compare in terms of size?
I would like mine to be similar size scale to the TRX4 as we will be filming stuff, I dont want to have the biger car (even tho it should be smaller)
I have hear the bushido is huge tbh, how does it look next to a TRX4 Defender? Is the MST smaller and closer to the TRX4?
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Guys, thank you for your help, but now already 3 weeks of researching. I unfortunately will not get a CR01... unfortunately, it would be too much money into the drain.
I will be getting a Element Enduro RTR kit with included optional overdrive gears. Some hop ups for around 400€ definitely worth it.
I already know I want mine one day to be a 1990Nissan Patrol, it seems there not many Patrol body's or is the car called otherwise in different parts of the world.
picture for reference
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My guess is the Tamiya and Kyosho Bl motors are high quality products.
a comparison like futaba/sanwa with flysky
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7 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:360A??? HK specs only stated 36A as the max current?
Yes, I figured it. In other terms... a 36A motor should run of at least a 30A ESC. I knew I had something wrong. As Willy said, modulation is something to watch for, but in cheap electronics, you don't have always all info, that is why it is a hit-and-miss sometimes. There is a connection between motor peak current, ESC peak current and battery peak current tho.
6 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:The USB is no longer available either. Will a HW card work? If so, which one?
I am not sure. The USB software of hobbywing lets you update the firmware to special software editions for boost turbo or blinky mode.
This is regarding the modulation, as different firmware are differently programmed for throttle response.
It is worth checking the usb cable by the hobbywing part number, I can not find it to be honest atm.
app:
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/pages/download
this program card. The X Car esc is a copy of the Xerun.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32278064576.html
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9 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:I did not recommend Trackstar/Hobbyking(is Trackstar a HK brand?) as HK seems to have greatly reduced stock these days. Feels like they are winding down after posting their NL warehouse. I also have their own label ESC which is said to be an old HW one and is good value but can never find the programmer for it.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-x-car-120a-brushless-car-esc-sensored-sensorless.html
I recommended the TS50 in my post above. SkyRC had also a great esc line with 120A.
I had two Hobby king X car 120A's with the USB PC setup cable, it used the Hobbywing USB software for PC as a setup card.
I tbh think the chip shortage and maybe some copy rights killed their business. The trackstar v1 and v2 can pretty much be compared to the muchmore fleta series. Same as this x car series to the hobbywing 10bl60 and 10bl120
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20 minutes ago, Willy iine said:@Fabia130vRS modulation is how much resolution there is in the throttle response.
Like the newer TBLE02S has poor modulation, 1060 has very refined modulation. LeMans240s ESC had poor modulation, XR10 JustStock has super refined modulation when mated to LeMans240S BL , etc.
Thank you for a quick reply, this topic goes much further I guess.
I for myself have noticed differences in transmitter to receiver response between my Sanwa and a FlySky GT3. The Sanwa had a very sensitive steering and throttle compared to the FlySky. Some details I have gathered are that the FlySky protocol operates for example at 1mm rates while the Sanwa is more precise to 0.5mm rates.
Also, what you mentioned modulation, from my experience it is always better to buy combo sets of ESC's and motors rather then everything seperate. If you do not have exact details upfront.
Most of this cheap china brushless esc's are copies of hobbywing esc's.
for example, the Hobbyking X Car 120A esc was like 25$ but a direct copy od the 10bl120.
And so is gool rc. Bigger company's charge more for their sets because of higher service level, higher standards compared to ebay seller protection for example.
This same esc like gool rc of tamico cost's like 60€
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23 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:This is a point many seem to miss.
Well, Hobbywing is not the only choice, SkyRC is a other often named budget choice.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIidxCd
In fact my very first brushless ESC is a TS50 and it has so much settings that your head will spin. It cannot do 3S or lower turn motors though should not be a problem for a first timer.
Good opinion.
My first brushless setup was a $90 Trackstar 80A turbo esc & Trackstar 13,5T sensored motor.
This is picture of the setup of turbo and boost settings.
The gool RC on the other hand is a $35 ready to run set that will do hard work without a brain. It is idiot-proof and fast on 3s and high gearing. It is a matching combo. Just add a good battery.
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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:Honestly you're better off just running LiPo if you want to save money this time around. It will give you noticeable increase in power vs your NiMH. BL motor/ESC combo can be tricky as modulation is a hit or miss .. and running hot motors will wear your car faster so there's that. GL with whatever you decide!
May you please explain to me what do you mean with modulation?
If it is concerned about Battery > ESC > Motor matching.
There is an easy formula, I may not explain it well enough, but I use this…
So... Let say I am going to match a sensored Trackstar 13,5T motor...
The motor has a peak current rating of: 360A
So I am looking for an ESC that can deliver this power...
The hobbywing quicrun 10bl60 has a peak power rating of: 380A
that's a perfect fit...
Let's see if my battery will support this setup...
mAh * C rating = peak A current
you would need a race pack of 6600mAh * 60C = 396,000mA (396A)
or a 100C * 5000mAh = 500.000mA (500A)
For peak performance. Most people do not realize how important the C rating is for high-powered combos. Regarding Peak-Performance. You may not damage it if the battery is not strong enough. The ESC should never be the bottleneck itself.
In my opinion it makes sense, and it is something I fetched of quadcopter forums.
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I am planning a trip this summer, and would like to rent a car as I find it convenient to roam around,
Do you guys rent cars? If so what brand do you trust/use the most? Big company's like Sixt, Hertz, Avis, Enterprise better to go to or avoid?
I have heard about different insurance levels and some cross border thing, it all adds up, do all the companies charge those?
Also so many price differences between official websites and for example booking.com, expidia, rentalcars are very different, is it better to book now or rent at location?
What are your expiriences? any funny side stories?
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I guess for offroad driving the sensorless gool rc 9 T is fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385342166072
Other wise...
The hobbywing 60A sensored brushless esc is a best buy. (2S-3S)
https://tamico.de/Hobbywing-QuicRun-10BL120-120A-Sensored-Regler
This I went for, the regular LRP SPIN (47€) not PRO. both 100A (2S-4S)
https://www.rc-kleinkram.de/products/02-80250?c=2488
This one is also a good sensor esc. (2S) TS50
https://www.rc-kleinkram.de/products/26-sk300060-01?c=2488
I trust people online, I do buy used motors, you can find great brands like, LRP, MuchMore, Losi and other sensor motors from 5.5T to 17.5T on ebay kleineinzeigen or ebay (a bit hard) You just need to know what you are looking for.
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Tamiya CR-01 Pros and cons ?*** new idea, Element Bushido vs MST CFX --- Bought a FTX Hi Rock
in General discussions
Posted
https://rgt-racing.com/cn_asp/productshow.asp?id=1140
here can be found more info. I guess the mother firm is RGT