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Everything posted by Mark_C

  1. Little pack of goddies finally arrived from Japan after being ordered on June 13th This includes the uprights for the TA03F that I can finally get to rebuild, its been living in an ice cream tub for the last couple of months.
  2. 1) Possibly the brake setting yes, you can change it by moving the pin jumper. see the manual here: https://www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/QuicRunWP1625-WP860-WP1060.pdf 2) So let me get this right, if you set trim position to the middle, wheels spin forwards at say 7/10, but if you push the trim all the way forwards the wheels then turn in reverse (and faster) ? With the trim in the middle, is reverse faster than forwards ?
  3. What exactly do you mean by " moved the shocks to a more scale look" ? What car is it ?
  4. I've seen some daft prices on ebay too, but everything is seeing an uptick in prices I think, I've seen TL-01s with battered shell/wheels go for over £100 snd even bare chassis with bits missing for over £60. Bare stock TT01 chassis with a mk2 escort body go for £200-300+, a on road chassis with a E30 BMW shell for £600 and so on. My perception is that sold prices are starting to drop a little and there's alot of stuff with high "buy it now" that go unsold. I see quite a lot of stuff relisted. I haven't bought anything recently, but did buy a few cars a little while back, but I passed up many that were just headed to silly money. I reckon some people have looked on ebay and seen rare NIB kits for hundreds and just assumed the dusty, trashed, common model in the loft is worth the same.
  5. thanks, been reading similar reports and its put me off to be honest. Apparently the motors are quite good but the esc isn't the best. Thinking about the SMD ones that modelsport sell (see below), on the basis that they probably don't sell stuff that has lots of comebacks..
  6. +1 on rc bearings, if you order direct they are usually with you in a day or two, even in the current situation. I also didn't know about discount!
  7. Considering one of these for my TT02, any experience or suggestions for a inexpensive esc/motor combo ? Needs to be 3S or revert to good old Nimh https://smddirect.co.uk/collections/smd-brushless-combos/products/jbr365039c-v2-brushless-combo-3900kv-60amp-esc Avoiding GoolRC stuff after seeing reports of fire(!) and stuttering/cogging etc
  8. really, hmmm I will go check my 02R!
  9. the 02R manual says to put a rubber o-ring in the prop cups, hence the slack. I guess they don't want the ball of the prop rubbing in the cup
  10. Thats pretty cool Jonathan, hope you and he have fun with it! If you want to do the gearbox brace (I think its worth it) there is an .stl file on thingiverse if you know someone with a 3d printer or can get one printed. The only warning is that there is an error in the file and the slicer software tries to print it as two bits, when I've had them printed before the printer has fixed the issue and printed them just fine.. Of course you can order form shapeways, but the post ot the UK is expensive and I assume would be to NZ too.
  11. In the hop up kit, I think so yes, I took it from the above you were re-using old shocks or buying them loose, hence mentioning it - nothing more annoying than setting out to do a job to find you need other bits!
  12. All 4 shocks (yellow CVAs) on my pumpkin are 85mm eye to eye. Can't be sure but I think this may be the official upgrade set. You need 2 U shaped brackets for the front top mount when fitting them, they're exactly the same as the back ones - these things
  13. Back in the day (christ I sound old..) you'd get that sort of stutter with radio interference, sometimes low battery in the transmitter etc. Have you run this transmitter/receiver with another ESC and found it to be ok ? Does the ESC have a throttle alignment in setup you could try ? I was thinking of getting a goolrc set, but this sort of thing and the picture of a very similar unit that caught fire is kind of putting me off.. Aisde from all that tell us more about the lights setup you've got ther, they look pretty good ?
  14. I've run one of these with a 1060, works fine no problems at all https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-firebolt-15t-motor-540-type-/rc-car-products/29609
  15. I've been looking at thes setups, but this post just put me right off!
  16. yikes, is that a goolrc ? was considering one of those..
  17. Over the weekend I have primed the lunch box and pumpkin bodies, sanded back and then given them another coat. The lunch box body is new, so that was pretty good but the pumpkin body needed a fair bit of sanding back to rid it of grooves/sanding marks. I haven't checked it after the 2nd coat, but I hope its ready for paint. In other news my Plaza Japan order, which I placed on 13th June and has been in the hands of the Japanese post system since 18th June finally left Osaka yesterday, msybe I'll finally receive it this week!
  18. I was thinking about one of these, https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-Waterproof-3650-3500KV-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-For-1-10-RC-Car-T0B2/264781791652 Seems to get the general thumbs up and are pretty inexpensive. Anyone here used one ?
  19. ^^ thats quick isn't it! let us know if the turnigy one is any good.. will ned one for this Not sure what body to put on it - I have a Mk2 escort shell, but that might go on the TA03. Also not sure if to go brushless or stick with a 1060 and a 15T brushed motor. Brushless (to me..) inevitably means running lipo and although I have one know they're a bit of a pain.. deicsions decisions..
  20. My Plaza Japan order placed 13th June has got as far as the Japanese postal service and seemingly disappeared... Tamico order from Sunday has made it to the outskirts of Frankfurt, not sure if it is going to be flown in or waiting to go on a truck..
  21. Can't help much but I have an M06 (Pumpkin Lowride) and the suspension on the rear is dreadful, it has pogo sticks instead of shocks which is bad enough, but the rear springs don't even fit, this results in the car sagging when put on its wheels, the rear suspension is very soft and has very little clearance - not enough to run over the tamiya spanner tool when its laid down! and the front actually sits higher than the back. It really is poor quality. I've added a set of yeah racing shocks which can actually hold the car up properly. If you're considering one of these I'd suggest you budget for replacement shocks. The other thing you could look at is an XV01 with its funky front motored chassis?
  22. They are slightly different, will try and take a picture tomorrow. Just to confuse you a bit more there are more than one body post, one of those might line up exactly, not sure.
  23. Correct, hence we suggest getting a controller with multiple model settings, once bound all you need do is select the correct car on the transmitter and off you go.
  24. I love the late 90s super touring car era, loads of innovation, mega engines and aero, pro drivers and lots of battles. There are some good videos of the 155s on youtube, seems quite a few are used as hillclimb cars now. @ChrisRx718 - for the escort, there was a guy selling cars on ebay with the same shell but he had copies of the factory RS2000 stickers and I saw another recently with factory like Mexico ones. Haven't managed ot track them down - I know the Mexico ones were bought because it said so in the ebay ad. Any ideas on a source ?
  25. I think shocks should bottom out before the chassis hits the floor. If you went over a big bump, launched it and the chassis could hit the floor on landing it'd cause it or a gearbox casing to crack. If the shocks take the hit it will do less damage, if any given the shock towers should be strong enough to cope with a bit of abuse. Ideally the shocks/springs are stiff enough that the car through its own weight can't actually bottom out anyway, thus the vehicle is always suspended.
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