Mark_C

Connect the motor directly to a battery, does it spin ? You could put a voltmeter on the motor connections from the esc, I would also swap the steering servo to channel 2 and the esc to channel 1 in the receiver, prove that you don't have an issue there. Those gool brushless systems are cheap and cheerful - many have had no problem with them, but i have seen several people comment that the esc packs up, if I remember correctly some of them have literally melted/burnt. I don't have any direct experience but I see people suggesting the Trackstar setups from hobbyking as well as SkyRC and Hobbywing Ezrun. Probably worth doing a search.

Have you actually opened any of them ?

I missed your last picture Blista - I would try changing the memory card in your camera first - sometimes they can go faulty and cause corruption like that. I have just sprayed the black on my shell. I haven't cut out the wheel wells as neatly as you did. I did take up your suggestion of masking out and painting the lip spoiler on the boot. It also didn't make much sense to paint the back side of the arch xtensions blue and then putting a black stickr on them, so I've maked those up and painted them. Fingers crossed it works out. If the black is okay, I'll start the blue tomorrow.

Yeah they make boilers etc. They sponsored a company called Kremer Racing who used to race Porsches in sportscar events. They won the 24 hours of LeMans in 1979 driving a Porsche 935 and have also won the Daytona 24 hours. The company had good connections to Porsche and built/prepared race going Porsches for other racers. The company was originally set up by two brothers, one died in 2006 and the company was sold in 2010 and still exists (https://www.kremer-racing.eu/) A walk around the real Kremer 934 : https://youtu.be/WOijO3aZhGE

Considered the limited edition 934 ? https://tamico.de/index.php?a=220470-1

I can't find a stated limit for the esc, but 15t is pretty low, I wouldn't be surprised if its too hot for it. Suggest a hobbywing 1060, they are cheap and will work down to 12t no problem.

Nothing amazing, but currently on ebay there is a double blaze that has been bid up to £74. After that one was listed another one appeared on a short listing, I bought it for £43, the first one still has some time to run. The one I've bought was also cheaper than a couple of Wild Daggers that were listed a week or two ago. A week or two ago there was a TA07 chassis with brushless setup, two lipos and a charger. All new and unused for £165 buy it now. I hesitated for a day or two because wasn't sure if I wanted to spend that much and also it appeared to good to be true, in the end someone bought it - I wonder if they did receive it? Bargain if they did.

The TL-01 arrived, quite dusty and mucky, but nothing broken and the only thing missing is one of the drive pins that the hex fits on to. It was grubby enough that I decided to totally strip it, everything plastic went in a bowl of soapy water, the pins for the lower arms got a clean with WD40. By the time I put it back together its in pretty good condition Turns out it has a Schumacher Formula motor, and old RCLine esc, oil filled cvas and bearings everywhere, except for the four on the propshaft - I'll order some for this. Also, I need to buy a switch as someone has removed the one on the esc and just twisted the wires together. Are there different body posts available for the TL-01 ? The fronts are fine, but the backs are too far back, they need to be roughly where the mount point on the body is - the aim is to use TT01 bodies, without multiple holes in the bodies. A few pics below, the Alfa shell seems to have been quite well done, but is suffering normal cracks and scrapes. Bits cleaned Chassis back together

de-solv-it comes in an aerosol can, so isn't a Jelly and is known not to damage the plastic, hence the suggestion.

The body turned up yesterday, so I have ordered paint and got some tape to mask it up with. Ref the rear diffuser, original style (2014-): 2015- spec 2018 spec, its quite subtle but you can see in the second picture they extended the diffuser Provenance at Nurburgring 24hr (SP3T class): 2014 - 4th in class, 32nd overall 2015 - Class win, 18th overall 2016 - Class win, 20th overall 2017 - DNF (21 hours). Fuel fire. 2018 - Class win, 62nd overall

In the Uk there is a graffiti remover called "de-solv-it", maybe you'll find a similar product

Body should be here next week, wheels & tyres - who knows, they are coming from rcmart so sometime between now and christmas is the delivery date. Provided you do enough coats of blue I guess backing it with anything won't make much difference. Deliberating an on road partner for the TT01, not sure yet, it can use the GTR shell the TT01 came with (or wear the NBR shell). I was looking at pictures of the real car, seen at least 3 different rear diffuser designs but will probably stick with the body as it comes (2016 spec of real car). I bought a brushless absima setup from ebay, works fine but when you release the throttle it has a brake, which stops the motor dead and therefore makes a rather alarming crack as the gearboxes lurch to a halt. Can't find out if and how I can program it. The chassis came with a tamiya ESC and a 20T HPI motor, so might just run that rather than risk the gearboxes with the absima.

You'd do worse than look at a flysky fs-i6, they are cheap and have (probably) more features than you need. Keep in mind its really an aircraft controller, so you need to buy the little kit to make the throttle self centre. It will also have 2 way gimbals, but there is a guy on youtube who glued his up with shoe goo. It might be possible to design and 3d print a part to lock them. take a look at banggood.com

You would say that now! never mind, mine are already on the way. I can always use the 26mm ones on the existing wheels. I found the instructions for the bodyset and that says to back with the PS-48 but as you say I guess going with a cheaper silver will work. Did you do the windows smoke colour as it suggests ?

The TT01E turned up, so I've just ordered the wheels and some RIDE 24mm radial tyres from rcmart via ebay. Web-selections on ebay had the body set available for under £30, but wasn't sure the car was going to turn up, so I held off. I messaged them and they said they break a kit every now and then when they can get one cheap from their supplier. Both rcjaz and rcmart work out £31-32 (I think) for the body set. I didn't realise the PS-48 paint was so expensive, I need to order the paints - I found euro car parts sell them and was hoping to find a discount code, but none of the ones I can find work for those products..

tip, you can control the size of an imgur image with the url. From the example above the url is https://i.imgur.com/z1d0K5Y.jpg If I put an s before the dot (e.g. https://i.imgur.com/z1d0K5Ys.jpg ) the image is very small: if I use the letter l its much bigger: You can use the following letters: s = Small Square (90×90) b = Big Square (160×160) t = Small Thumbnail (160×160) m = Thumbnail (320×320) l = Thumbnail (640×640) h = Thumbnail (1024×1024) I've not seen it trim the image as per the first example, might be because of the original image aspect (i.e. very wide by not very deep).

If you want stick radio gear, our choice is a bit limited, both Carson and Absma do cheap sets, Futaba (probably better quality) do a very ugly set for a bit more, past those you're probably looking at using a transmitter designed for aircraft (so has 2 way gimbals etc). If you are ok with wheel, then there is much more choice. One option you could look at is flysky - they are cheap (check banggood) and have lots of features (multiple model memory, dual rate, exponential etc) if you look at something like a GT3B or GT3C. You will only need one servo (for the steering), did you buy a kit with a speed controller (or ESC) ? if its not with the kit you'll need one of those. The ESC you use will depend on what batteries and motor you want. In the old days we used brushed motors (like the stock motor). These are still available in various guises and are fairly inexpensive. Nowadays brushless motors are available, they have much better performance but cost more and (most of the time) use a different ESC to the brushed motors. To get the best out of a brushless motor you need to use lipo batteries - do note you can use lipo with brushes motors and nimh with a brushless motor though (provided the ESC is capable). You may have to change the pinion to one with fewer teeth (or "gear down") if you go brushless. lipo is short for lithium polymer. The batteries are more powerful and have better longevity than the older nimh (nickel metal hydride), but cost more and also need much more care in use - they should not be left unattended whilst charging and should be charged in a fireproof bag - if not treated correctly these batteries can catch fire in some circumstances. They should also be part charged when not in use - failure to do this can result in permanent damage to the battery. Also note that lipo batteries come in a range of shapes and sizes - not all will fit the hornet so if going this way do your research to ensure a prospective purchase will fit. nimh batteries are far better than the old nicads we used years ago with capacities as high as 5000mah their longevity is quite good. They are cheaper, easier to look after and can take more abuse (less of a fire risk) than lipo but don't offer the ultimate performance that lipo can. Chargers - if you run lipo batteries you need to ensure the charger is capable and preferably is "intelligent" to ensure it charges the battery is a specific way (called balance charging). Most chargers that do lipo will also charge nimh and this is probably a good way to go in case you do end up running both types in future. A lot of chargers are 12v input and some use computer power supply units to feed them, units with AC input are also available but cost a bit more. As a rough guide, if you went nimh batteries + brushed motor + suitable esc I think it'd cost about half of lipo + brushless motor + suitable esc. The latter setup will give you more performance and run time, the former simplicity and lower cost. Now you have a few terms do some searching and decide what route you want to take - this recent thread may be of interest : As for other upgrades get a set of bearings to replace the plastic bushes that are in the kit. Not sure how many other upgrades are around for the hornet but I know pintopower here does some - check out his youtube channel (search ampro engineering).

This kit ? https://tamiyabase.com/tamiya-models/58064 The manual ( https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58064ml.pdf ) shows there is a thrust bearing on the input to the front gearbox, see step 16. Wheels & tyres - most Tamiya kits use a 12mm hex drive, there are plenty of wheels that use the same, just take a look on ebay. What I will say is that kit doesn't use the normal 12mm hex drives, so I would wait for confirmation that they are 12mm the same as other tamiya kits but I'd be surprised if they weren't. I've not used lightwater models, if you have any doubts just give them a call. You could also message "tonystamiyaparts975" on ebay, see if he can get the bits for you - he's a very reliable seller and appears to have good access to inventory.

Assuming you are running a brushed motor the Hobbywing 1060 just about does it all, down to 12T, lipo compatible and its quite small. Only negative for me is the wires are a bit short, especially to the switch and the switch doesn't have screw mount holes. The wires are fine for buggies and on road cars, but would have been a serious stretch in my Monster Beetle. The alternative to that is a Etronix Probe Plus 2.0, around the same price, does 14T. This one has a mountable switch and much longer wires, the trade off is that the unit itself is bigger. Both are £16-18 and pretty easy to get hold of.

Interesting to see what you guys are up to. I'm a little tempted to get a printer, but I don't really have a need for one, although I'm pretty sure I could find stuff to print! meantime I've found 3dhubs.com cheap and convenient for a few little pieces that I've had done. The printers are getting cheaper though, I was looking at an Ender 3 which is less than $200 USD, seems pretty decent for the money.

So that Core CR293 is a good bet, I've yet to read of a tamiya car it doesn't fit. You could also look at the Yuki packs. See page 3. There are links to a few others in that post too.

There are quite a few threads on this if you search, at worst you want to look for one with a rounded case that matches the size of the nicad/nimh 7.2v packs - Core CR923 for example. Other batteries are available in a similar size but have a squared case - these might or might not fit. Some threads to look at: There is a general guide to lipos here, worth taking the time to understand how to charge them safely and how to store them etc.

I have seen the MST tyres at rcmart & asiatees, but there is no indication if they are 24mm, not even on the MST site - I wasn't sure if they made more than one wheel width. Yeah Racing do some 24mm slicks on rcmart too but I was thinking more of treaded tyres. I was considering getting the grey ones and the using a translucent "smoke" paint to darken them, but I found plenty of pictures of the real car on black wheels and I think they kind of match the black splitter/side skirts. Not ordered from rcmart before, but I can get everything from them in one go, so might be the easiest way.

Hey Blista have you done any more to this ? Tempted to get the Subaru shell for a TT01E, I just missed a cheap shell on ebay. Tempted to get the MST wheels as the car is currently wearing a GTR body, so the wheels are wrong anyway. I haven't been able to find anyone selling the MST tyres and in general 24mm ones are a bit thin on the ground, I might wait and see if the 26mm ones work ok. Your guide for the paint and stickers is very useful, thanks!

I used a light cotton cloth, just a dab of brasso, worked it in using my finger under the cloth and then just wiped it off, then used just a normal spray furniture polish to clear any residue. You could also try using a car paint polish.