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Everything posted by Mark_C

  1. thanks to both, just ordered from here: https://speedrc.co.uk/tamiya-m05/damper-units/ Not worth using rcmart for just 1 item. they have the "big bore" ones too, but don't know if they will fit so stuck with the standard size.
  2. I have a flysky i6, you can get a throttle return spring from banggood for £1 or so. My memory is a bit hazy, but if I recall correctly left to right on the right stick was channel three and up/down was channel 1. So I swapped the plugs around inside to give left to right on channel 1, thus fitting the normal operation for a car. You can assign different channels to the operation in the software itself, possible that I didn't need to swap plugs around, I can't remember. Anyway, it works fine. The sticks on mine still go both ways, its not as much of a problem as you might think. I did see a guy on youtube glue his up with a hot glue gun so they only moved in one direction.. make sure you get it right! ha! It might be possible to put a locking screw in to do this too. If you do a search here there was a chap who took some 2.4ghz electronics from a modern transmitter and fitted them to an old 27Mhz handset, kind of a best of both worlds!
  3. I'm interested too, sounds good to me, I need a set for my pumpkin lowride to replace the junk in the kit, the back barely manages to keep the gearbox off the ground, its the worst kit I've ever seen from tamiya. Where did you get them from? I see speedrc have them.
  4. Sorry You have to admit, its not a bad likeness though: It does look like the holes for body mounts might be a little wrong as the back wheel doesn't look centered in the arch.
  5. 1/10 on road wheels are all the same (I think!) you occasionally see a diameter listed but most of the time they just quote offset and width (typically 24 or 26mm). Provided the wheel takes a 12mm hex, you can more or less use what you want. Just keep in mind a big offset will make the wheel stick out from the arch. The body is a 3rd party one from a company called matrixline, they are pretty cheap hence all the misspelt company names, but it seems perfectly ok as a runner to me. If you want to change it look for a 190mm on road body. You can use 200mm bodies but you'll need wheels with a bigger offset to fill the arches otherwise it will look a bit odd. Any tamiya on road body should fit.. The wheel falling off could be because the nyloc insert is worn and the nut just backs off. Funnily enough I had a wheel come off my TL-01 not long ago, unfortunately it pulled the hex drive off and I lost the drive pin, going to replaced all the wheel nuts to prevent a recurrence.
  6. imho the gearbox brace is a far better way to do it. https://www.shapeways.com/product/G72GAY3NL/w01002-01-cw01-lunchbox-pumpkin-trans-brace 5th shock just slows down the movement, brace stops it, but still allows articulation. If you are not in the states shapeways gets a bit expensive because of shipping, there is a version of this on thingiverse that you could get printed BUT be aware that the .stl file has a fault, which causes the part to be printed in 2 pieces. It needs a correction to get it to print correctly.
  7. ha, much the same - wasn't really planning on bidding "I've got enough cars as it is.." but there aren't many sensibly priced Group Cs and I happened to be awake and, well its worth a punt... now I need to find a shell and some wheels, preferably the street devil.
  8. @Juhunio just noticed a TA03R-S on uk ebay for £150 if you were looking for a kit. Its got the 1996 Porsche GT1 body on it (kit 47443).
  9. Ha, I spotted a post there by @Green Tokyo last night, maybe we can take over usersub with Tamiyas
  10. Uh oh, more ebay fiscal hooliganism.. Body is trashed, tyres don't look good either. Surprisingly, although the last re-re of this group c chassis was in 2014 there are quite a few bits on ebay, parts and screw bags etc. Unfortunately no bodies, well, there is a street devil body set (which is what I'd like to put on it), but at £250 for a body set I'm gonna have to pass. I wonder if any pan car bodies fit... or someone has a stash of group c bodies I don't need to sell a kidney for.. a correctly painted 787b would be pretty neat too. Any suggestions ?
  11. For anyone following along, that "no nonsense" paint stripper attacks ABS plastic use with extreme caution! Hope you find a suitable stripper axel, worst case look for an original body on ebay that you could repaint easily..
  12. imgur likes to give you the link to the page the picture is on, not the actual picture. For example: You can see the link it shows me here is the same as the page URL. If I hit the down arrow next to the URL, some options are shown - you want the "Get share links" A popup box appears, you want the BBCode one at bottom left, press the copy button next to it. All you need to do is paste that code in the tamiyaclub post window, that will give you text like the below. When you hit "Submit Reply" it will convert that text in to the picture: But wait, there's more. By default, that picture could be pretty big, but imgur is clever and lets us change the size of the picture we post, this os often good to do because it stops huge pictures appearing in your posts. We do this by putting a lowercase letter L before the dot in the link, like this: Which means the picture is posted smaller: instead of we can put an h that makes it a bit bigger, should you wish.
  13. Some prices are crazy, I saw an original blackfoot go on ebay for £180 last night. It was in pretty good condition but not 100%. TL-01s are fetching £80 or more.
  14. I's just measure the top arm and buy some turnbuckles that are the right length, I can't vouch for them but someone recently posted this site as a supplier https://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=318 but I'm sure you'll find similar on ebay. keep in mind you don't want it to be the same eye to eye length as the existing top arm because you'll have the balljoint end there and then turnbuckle will screw into it, if using 5mm balljoints I'd expect you to be at least 6 or 7mm shorter tham the eye to eye on the top arm, you could probably go 10mm under quite easily.
  15. I bought two from jk-rc for £15 each, maybe a month ago ? don't appear from a search now, so maybe he's out of stock. I didn't go with the hobbywing for the sole reason that the motor wires are a little short when going in a CW-01 chassis. Also, the Hobbywings were a little thin on the ground - modelsport want £20 are are still out of stock now. The TBLE also has the advantage it can run brushless if you want. I've also previously used these : https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-probe-plus-2-0-brushed-wp-electronic-speed-controller/rc-car-products/397047 worked fine, but they are quite big, close to twice the size of the hobbywing!
  16. Got one of the CW-01s going, just needs the shell painted. Pumpkin is waiting for a steering arm, because I have to convert to 5mm as the original balljoints don't fit the kimbrough servo saver In progress: stripping the paint from the tub of the TA03F.
  17. Welcome to TC.. For tamiya parts suppliers - tonystamiyaparts975 on twitter. Ian @ www.jk-rc.co.uk does Tamiya and Schumacher. Modelsport tend to have a wide stock too. There are also overseas suppliers like rcmart, rcjaz but with things as they are, posting times are variable!
  18. There is something far more interesting to rebuilding something than just buying new. I'm always perplexed as to why dampers are so expensive, some mini cvas are £20+ a pair. The official hop up for an M06 chassis are £75, which is insane given the kit itself is only £130.
  19. The rear uprights are split at the top mount, single shear is such a bad idea. If I could find metal ones I'd probably go that route. Hmm, I may as well wait for UK suppliers I guess. Interesting though, the sprue is about £10 here, JPY 400, which is a sniff under £3.. I hear you on the credit card front.. mine is whimpering tooo at the moment!
  20. Does their shipping take a long time Chris ? they apparently have a part in stock that is out of stock here for at least another month. Debating on if its worth ordering from them.. (unless you happen to have some TA03F rear uprights hanging about...)
  21. I used an aerosol spray product made by a company called de-solv-it called graffiti remover. However, it appers not to be available here any more. I've also recently used this https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-paint-varnish-stripper-500ml/17091 to remove paint from a lexan body, which it did with no damage. I plan on using this on the pumpkin body to strip the tailgate provided it tests out ok ! I am hopeful because as you see it comes in a plastic bottle. Do you get Revell paints in Canada ? they do a paint remover that smells just like acetone (nail polish remover) - I also used this on the pumpkin body (the graffiti remover ran out). I was very gentle with it because I heard acetone metls plastic, but the revell stuff did no damage to the plastic at all. It is expensive stuff though! Carson have a product called "paint killer", not tried it but another one to look for.
  22. I'm not providing updates because the amount of progress is terrible compared to others here
  23. I have three small tubs, the sort you might get chewing gum in. 1 - Self tappers 2 - Machine screws 3 - "odd" screws - screw pins or one offs that are a particular fitment, like the "nut" that fastens the midnight pumpkin rollbar to the bed for instance. I've also got a jar that contains split pins and any other strange odds and ends.
  24. They make it complicated don't they! @TurnipJF ah yes, I saw Ian's ebay item, when I wrote that I had the '99 Monte Carlo Impreza (58631) in my head: Apparently they never released that as a body set part either Which (I think) is the same body as the TA03F 58210 kit with different stickers Just had a thought and checked L&L Models, they do one of these, currently sold out like most of his stuff though.
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