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Mark_C

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Everything posted by Mark_C

  1. Yeah I thought it was a bit confusing, maybe Modelsport just got mixed up. Do they re-release using the same number or do they usually give it a new one ? Could do with the shell for my TA03F (97 WRC) but it seems Tamiya don't release it as a part even when they re-release kits
  2. Modelsport say that Tamiya are also re-releasing the 04 Subaru Impreza WRC Mexico. This was originally on the TT01E chassis but Modelsport say the re-release is going on the TT02, here's the original kit page, note it says TT01E there.. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=427771&fbclid=IwAR28am8zD_buAW7dGMHYA-oeKIv4Nb22ESjtFIzbZlQ-snELLSarP_z9j0g
  3. I see at least 3 of that kit BNIB on UK ebay currently, there are some of the cliff liveried TA03F too. Not cheap!
  4. Anything ford seems to sell well, there is a chap on UK ebay selling bog stock TT02 kits built up with a mk2 escort body (that wears RS2000 stickers), no radio gear or ESC, the last one sold for nearly £300.. Another seller was selling a new body with the same stickers and that went for over £100. I suppose though the thing is that the perceived worth means for Tamiya the licensing costs would be much higher for something like the RS500. I think if Tamiya worked out a licensing deal with SRO they could do loads of neat GT3 cars. I would say FIA but that'd likely cost a fortune. They did Group C cars before didn't they? I suppose those rights stay with the manufacturers/teams of the time. Sauber Mercedes C9, Mazda 787B, Jaguar XJ12 etc. With sportscar/GT/endurance and retro/vintage/historic racing increasing in popularity recently it could be a good revenue earner. They could do 1:24 kits of cars too. If they can make them appeal to the average punter who buys it as shelf art/to mess with they'll make more money than trying to appeal directly to RC enthusiasts.
  5. I did consider it! what a mess that made..
  6. I've just stripped an original midnight pumpkin body that had been painted with car paint. It took time but I did get it all off. Some paint strippers will soften or even melt the plastic, so you need to find one that is safe for plastics. I think it'd be worth the effort to try and rescue the body. My MB is an original chassis but has a re-re body, luckily I managed to find an original glass set and I intend to fill the holes so it look more original. The re-re body is shared with the blitzer beetle and sand scorcher re-re, the reason there is no back glass is because of the sand scorcher, I forget the reason, maybe it has a on/off switch back there and you need to put your hands in the back ? I don't remember. In any casethey decided to economise and use the same body for all three.
  7. 99% of paint now removed Struggling with the kimbrough servo savers. The Pumpkin is an original, so has 4mm ball joints, the holes in the servo saver are far bigger than the bolts, so they'll slop around. If I upgrade to 5mm and the bigger ends like a re-re the tie rods won't fit because they'll be too thin. Not sure how to get around that one other than replace everything. On the beetle the holes in the servo saver appear ot be a tad too small and I can't screw the balljoints in..
  8. Also, re-re doesn't have glass in the rear window and will have holes in the door for mirrors, it also has a second hole in the bonnet/hood for a mounting post - the original has none of these. So that is definately a original body.
  9. Ah, sorry, I missed you were in the US. Yeah I guess you need to find a paint remover that won't damage the plastic at your local store. You find a lot of people saying to use brake fluid to remove paint from bodies, seems a messy way to do it, but it might work if you can't find anything.
  10. I keep looking at an Ender3 and doing the "shall I shan't I" thing. I think 3D printing is another money pit ! but the ability to make parts (once I've learnt the modelling & slicer) is very appealing... I deleted facebook ages ago, its tripe. I use imgur to host pictures, just upload from phone then on desktop view the picture, "copy image location" and there you go. Dead easy. You can size the image by changing the filename, e.g. instead of putting https://i.imgur.com/lmk4meo.jpg in the [ IMG ] tags if you put an l before the dot like: https://i.imgur.com/lmk4meol.jpg the image only appears as 640px wide, you can use h to get a 1024 image too.
  11. If you look over in the "what have you done today" thread I've been removing paint from polycarbonate with this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-paint-varnish-stripper-500ml/17091 It doesn't seem to affect the polycarbonate at all, certainly I don't have any clouding or white areas. If it removes enamel or not, I don't know but its worth a try.
  12. This is the Willcon Advan Vemac shell I got with my TA05IFS. The black paint has metalflake in it but is painted on the outside and has no clear over it, so has a matt finish to it, there are also various paint runs in it too. Inside the shell showed lines where masking tape had been. Removing the rear spoiler and back part of the body revealed what looks like a pretty neat livery: I'd already pulled some chintzy LEDs from the body. The black paint has gotta go.. So, with the help of some paint stripper: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-paint-varnish-stripper-500ml/17091 and IPA I attacked it! first of all the back part of the body as a test. I rubbed the paint stripper on with a paper towel and worked it in a bit, a few minutes later the paint is a bit gooey and a paper towel would remove some I switched to IPA to actually get it off the body. Back part of the body - whoever painted the black just went right over the stickers and neither the stripper or IPA removed them! Test successful - no cloduing or anything so on to the body itself and slowly, the old livery appears: Not quite sure why you'd want to slap that black stuff all over this, but with a bit more effort I think I can save it. Good news is that paint stripper seems ok on poly bodies, I'm going got try on a ABS body a bit later as I've got paint I'm struggling to remove on an original pumpkin..
  13. Postman bought me some goodies: My first lipo ! and a charging bag - still to come is a XT60 to Deans converter and a charging lead. IPA for paint stripping. Servo savers for the Pumpkin and Monster Beetle.
  14. Yes the ESC plugs directly in to the receiver just like a servo does so the throttle servo is now a spare If you have one you also no longer need that little 4 AA cell battery pack either. When the battery turns up I would just try the car and see what sort of noise it makes! Not sure on spares availability - worth an email to JK-RC or tonystamiyaparts on ebay. I have a feeling they are quite scare. Depending on condition the car could be valuable - that chassis also came with a Porsche 959 body. The 959 is one of the most desirable vintage Tamiyas, there's one on ebay right now for £750! - IMHO not worth that but I've seen them sell for 2-300. Celica probably doesn't have the fame of the 959, but its certainly a rare one. Final thing - the old 27Mhz radios are pretty old hat nowadays, everything is 2.4Ghz now and you don't need crystals to select bands - handsets automatically sort that out. If you have radio issues you might opt to replace, suggest flysky - GT3B is cheaper but needs 8 AA batteries to power it. GT3C comes with a rechargable battery.
  15. My point was pulling a gearbox from a WR-01 won't really make it go any faster. I don't know much about other brands to be honest, especially these newcomers like ETX, Arma etc. I guess its worth a search to gather opinion.
  16. WT01 wheelbase is 281mm. Blackfoot is 240 so body won't fit, at least not well. Not sure about taking a motor out of a WR-01, I mean it wouldn't help the gearing any so would presumably be too slow still ? I know you said has to be Tamiya, but I think you might find other brands fit the reuqirement better - take a look here https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rc-electric-models/rc-car-categories/9900/990010&MSAttributeID[85]=234
  17. Monster beetle and blackfoot only have a slight revision to the gearbox to use dogbones vs hex drives. Some seem to have major issues with the gearbox, but mine is ok. The other issues around fragiility/speed with the ORV still stand even if you don't have gearbox issues.
  18. re-re blackfoot has the same issues as the original in this case. I think the Aqroshot fits the bill but is a truggy like his existing car. Blitzer beetle maybe? If it has to be Tamiya I think I'd look at a buggy like the dark impact / plasma edge II so that he actually has a car thats different. I suppose you could look at a WR-01 chassis car (all out of production I think?) but may not be quick enough.
  19. Replacing a mechanical speed controller for an electronic one is always a good idea. Look for a hobbywing 1060 which are cheap and are pretty good. You may want to think about replacing the battery, its pretty amazing you got the old one (presumably nicad?) to work at all. I would avoid lipo for now, the modern nimh batteries are cheap and will provide much more power/run time, go for something like a 3000mah and stick to 7.2v ones to make it easy and cheap. Hobbywing 1060: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-waterproof-esc-sbec/rc-car-products/404964 Battery: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-3300mah-7-2v-sport-stick-pack/rc-car-products/376164 Keep n mind that battery probably has a bigger capacity than the existing one, so you will probably need to charge it for longer. It may be worth investing in a newer charger. Something like this will not only charge the battery but condition it too. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-vsr-mini-ac-lipo-balance-charger-60w-6a/rc-car-products/425241 that will beep when the battery is charged correctly. Cheaper option would be somehting like : https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-powerpal-peak-plus-ac-nimh-lipo-1-3-5a-charger/rc-car-products/388544 you will have to manually charge time and it won't look after the battery..
  20. CW-01 chassis are back together. Somehow I forgot to order a new servo saver for the pumpkin, so thats now on its way. The pumpkin came with the CVAs, so they went back on, the lunch box "shock" bodies were knackered so stole them from my pumpkin lowride kit as that doesn't use them. Both got strut & gearbox braces and bearings. Also finished the stickering of the Subaru NBR shell.
  21. I've got a 1040 (predecessor to 1060 I believe) in a pumpkin and the motor wires are a little short if I recall correctly. Other than that they're absolutely fine and will handle an upgraded brushed motor (down to 12T apparently).
  22. I think a lot of re-releases are bought on the basis of "I remember them from when I was a kid and never had one/wanted another one". Originally marketed to kids its (mostly) the same people buying them again now I reckon. Its a bit like the technic lego - used to be something for young teenagers but are now "adult toys" (no, not like that!) - teenagers these days aren't interested in RC/lego (big generalisation..). If the re-releases live up to the memories is probably an individual thing. There are a suprising number of RCers who build shelf queens and never even run them.
  23. I picked up one of my parcels of bits I've been waiting for, turns out good old RM tried to deliver it, didn't get an answer and didn't leave a card. I only got the tracking number from the seller (props to Ian @ JK-RC). Also picked up some paint stripper from screwfix to see if its safe for plastic..
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