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Mark_C

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Posts posted by Mark_C


  1. 1) Possibly the brake setting yes, you can change it by moving the pin jumper. see the manual here: https://www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/QuicRunWP1625-WP860-WP1060.pdf

    2) So let me get this right, if you set trim position to the middle, wheels spin forwards at say 7/10, but if you push the trim all the way forwards the wheels then turn in reverse (and faster) ?

    With the trim in the middle, is reverse faster than forwards ?


  2. I've seen some daft prices on ebay too, but everything is seeing an uptick in prices I think, I've seen TL-01s with battered shell/wheels go for over £100 snd even bare chassis with bits missing for over £60. Bare stock TT01 chassis with a mk2 escort body go for £200-300+, a on road chassis with a E30 BMW shell for £600 and so on.

    My perception is that sold prices are starting to drop a little and there's alot of stuff with high "buy it now" that go unsold. I see quite a lot of stuff relisted.

    I haven't bought anything recently, but did buy a few cars a little while back, but I passed up many that were just headed to silly money.

    I reckon some people have looked on ebay and seen rare NIB kits for hundreds and just assumed the dusty, trashed, common model in the loft is worth the same.

    • Like 1

  3. 10 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

    Generally they seem rather good, but lately I have been coming across some issues. A member on here has one that seems to be extremely prone to cogging even though brand new, and one that I fitted to a colleague's car has recently started exhibiting the same behaviour even though it was fine when first fitted. Still, the good reports outnumber the bad, so probably worth a punt.

    thanks, been reading similar reports and its put me off to be honest. Apparently the motors are quite good but the esc isn't the best. Thinking about the SMD ones that modelsport sell (see below), on the basis that they probably don't sell stuff that has lots of comebacks..

     


  4. Thats pretty cool Jonathan, hope you and he have fun with it!

    If you want to do the gearbox brace (I think its worth it) there is an .stl file on thingiverse if you know someone with a 3d printer or can get one printed. The only warning is that there is an error in the file and the slicer software tries to print it as two bits, when I've had them printed before the printer has fixed the issue and printed them just fine.. Of course you can order form shapeways, but the post ot the UK is expensive and I assume would be to NZ too.

     

    • Like 1

  5. All 4 shocks (yellow CVAs) on my pumpkin are 85mm eye to eye. Can't be sure but I think this may be the official upgrade set.

    You need 2 U shaped brackets for the front top mount when fitting them, they're exactly the same as the back ones - these things

     

    9805082ms.jpg

    • Like 4

  6. Back in the day (christ I sound old..) you'd get that sort of stutter with radio interference, sometimes low battery in the transmitter etc. Have you run this transmitter/receiver with another ESC and found it to be ok ?

    Does the ESC have a throttle alignment in setup you could try ?

    I was thinking of getting a goolrc set, but this sort of thing and the picture of a very similar unit that caught fire is kind of putting me off..

    Aisde from all that tell us more about the lights setup you've got ther, they look pretty good ?


  7. Over the weekend I have primed the lunch box and pumpkin bodies, sanded back and then given them another coat. The lunch box body is new, so that was pretty good but the pumpkin body needed a fair bit of sanding back to rid it of grooves/sanding marks. I haven't checked it after the 2nd coat, but I hope its ready for paint.

    In other news my Plaza Japan order, which I placed on 13th June and has been in the hands of the Japanese post system since 18th June finally left Osaka yesterday, msybe I'll finally receive it this week!


  8. ^^ thats quick isn't it! let us know if the turnigy one is any good.. will ned one for this

    4ud6H0yl.jpg

    Not sure what body to put on it - I have a Mk2 escort shell, but that might go on the TA03.

    Also not sure if to go brushless or stick with a 1060 and a 15T brushed motor. Brushless (to me..) inevitably means running lipo and although I have one know they're a bit of a pain.. deicsions decisions..

    • Like 1

  9. Can't help much but I have an M06 (Pumpkin Lowride) and the suspension on the rear is dreadful, it has pogo sticks instead of shocks which is bad enough, but the rear springs don't even fit, this results in the car sagging when put on its wheels, the rear suspension is very soft and has very little clearance - not enough to run over the tamiya spanner tool when its laid down! and the front actually sits higher than the back. It really is poor quality. I've added a set of yeah racing shocks which can actually hold the car up properly. If you're considering one of these I'd suggest you budget for replacement shocks.

    The other thing you could look at is an XV01 with its funky front motored chassis?

     

    • Like 2

  10. 37 minutes ago, mtbkym01 said:

    I thought TL and TT body post locations are the same? As long as the fronts are not mounted at the bumper but at the shock tower? This may upset my plans of using a WRX body from a TL01 on my TT02SR, I guess once I build it I’ll know for sure

    They are slightly different, will try and take a picture tomorrow.

     

    Just to confuse you a bit more there are more than one body post, one of those might line up exactly, not sure.


  11. 40 minutes ago, foz75 said:

    Am I right in thinking that to bind a RX to a TX each time, with the 2.4 stuff you need to plug in a little binding cable to the RX? 

    So on a fully enclosed car like the fox, binding manually each time could be a bit of a problem, unless I cut a hole in the chassis that allows easy access to connect the binding cable?

    Correct, hence we suggest getting a controller with multiple model settings, once bound all you need do is select the correct car on the transmitter and off you go.

     


  12. I love the late 90s super touring car era, loads of innovation, mega engines and aero, pro drivers and lots of battles. There are some good videos of the 155s on youtube, seems quite a few are used as hillclimb cars now.

    @ChrisRx718 - for the escort, there was a guy selling cars on ebay with the same shell but he had copies of the factory RS2000 stickers and I saw another recently with factory like Mexico ones. Haven't managed ot track them down - I know the Mexico ones were bought because it said so in the ebay ad. Any ideas on a source ?

     

     

    • Like 1

  13. I think shocks should bottom out before the chassis hits the floor.

    If you went over a big bump, launched it and the chassis could hit the floor on landing it'd cause it or a gearbox casing to crack.

    If the shocks take the hit it will do less damage, if any given the shock towers should be strong enough to cope with a bit of abuse.

    Ideally the shocks/springs are stiff enough that the car through its own weight can't actually bottom out anyway, thus the vehicle is always suspended.

     

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