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About AbeBeast

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  1. Hi Nikko, thanks for all the info! I'd ask You to post the 3Ds here or to open a new post in the TC Design section, so they can be visible for every member I'll try them as soon as I can.
  2. Had this brace for a while now: great job man, it works and fits great!
  3. Track width is the same as previous: slightly increased compared to original, but matches rear width (that has 19mm hex to adopt WR02 wheels) and that's a great goal for me. I think that original width can be obtained using DT02/3 rear A-arms, but then shock installation has to be a little different... Something to think about Great idea!!! Are those on shapeways or You can give us the 3Ds? Later thoughts have led me to indulge into modify some original supports and use them to install some magnets and reduce the damages due to mechanical fastening, but I haven't realised them yet .... Haven't decided yet, but your solution seems very insteresting! Have You tested It already?
  4. Now the wheelbase Is approx. 240mm and the turning radius Is slightly reduced, but seems cornering Is much more stable and predictable. Also landing feels better.
  5. Had the time to make a couple mods this morning: - 350cps oil in rear shocks and 400cps oil in front shocks; will try softer oil in rear shocks as sono as I purchased some 😅 - installed DT02/3 front A-arms in place of original modded ones (see pictures below); used a 72mm long M3 bar as shaft and 2+2x long spacer (X3 part for tamiya 50520 kit). The latter is a mod that's been around in my mind for quite a long time, as something You've "seen" as feasible but never have the courage to try, until some day You come up with the solution and just do it... Feels great..
  6. Hi guys! Had the time to film some bashing this afternoon, here's a link to see the results: https://youtu.be/bU15d-MFA20 In this one, rear shocks are Tamiya short CVAs lenghtened to 120mm with 400cps oil and soft spring (added a couple of spacers to match the hard's lenght). Also, I've added dust covers (made with blue nitrile glove's fingers) to every shock to reduce dust infiltrations and try to avoid shaft's premature wear .
  7. This afternoon I've been out for some tests and try to shoot some vids: first thing I can say Is now the rear shocks are way to hard, next gonna try some 400cps and some Injora alu shocks I've purchased in the past days.
  8. Sorry for being late on the video release, but I've prefered trying to install the scaler wheels (a hard no right now, both aesthetically and functionally...) and re-building shocks, which were in need forattention. Lenghtened the rear shocks (measure TBD) and used harder oil (probably 500cps, not completely sure... with 3 holes pistons, hard springs) to increase front grip (front shocks are 350cps, 3 holes pistons, hard springs); all pistons have been shimmed to avoid play between the e-clips. Tested briefly on tarmac and It responded and moved nicely, we'll see on clay/grass... Late runs have been hard on the old body, that's making me reconsider it's original positioning on the chassis: the front gets almost no protection from the bumper during crashes (You can hear the body collide...) and that leads to craks and chipping. First thoughts led me to these options: - avoid collisions 😁 - damped body posts - move body about 15mm back (using lunchbox's rear posts, new holes to be drilled on body) What do You think?
  9. Noticed the system sneaking in first post, but thought the rack would slide side to side... Still, let us know when the uprights will be available!
  10. It looks really interesting, but the link doesn't work :/
  11. Thanks mate! Had a 3D printed rear brace for a while and really liked it (I think It still there and shows in some pictures), but opted for the 4link solution aiming to get some of the tipical Trophy trucks' squat while retaining a bit of the kit's comical behaviour. Long story short, changed the lower arms pivot from the usuals seen on the net to get closer to the battery tray and as parallel to the ground as possible while being at the sale height of the wheel axis; instead, placing the upper arms on the chassis it's been more of and adjustment process because the further away from the lower pivots the more squat You get... I like mine where the links are almost parallel to each other from a side point of view. Still, I think the pivots position on the gear box is quite odd compared to traditional solid axles... Some space for future developments... For the front sus I have to thank another TC user (can't find any link, sorry...) because I copied it's cheap but very effective solution: I was struggling with the CRP FX10 kit's damper position when this came out of nowhere and it's just brilliant. In the future I think I'll give myself a chance and design some A arms to get them 3D printed, but at the moment there's no hurry since modded originals are just fine. In the next few days I'll try and shoot the truck riding on tarmac and off-road (clay and grass) and then post it here, hoping it can be helpful to anyone planning these mods. Cheers!
  12. Last but not least, a couple of pictures showing front susp negative camber correction when body roll occurs. Enjoy!
  13. In the next future I'm planning on changing c-hubs and uprights to add hexs on front too and try some 1.9" crawler wheels (the small bearing in hex conversion kits always bothered me), we'll see... Also, over the years the original body has seen some serious battering and it's now being kept togheter by glue, hopes and dreams of glory... so a new (but black) one is on its way to take on the burden and keep we all charmed by such an amusing yet beautiful little truck!
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