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DK308

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About DK308

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    Hopefully some place nice
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    Wife, cars, motorsport, work, RC's, work, fun, friends, work, travel, sport and fitness.

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  1. The 1080 is a great ESC. They are very rugged and the waterproofing works well. Mount a strong fan on top and they are pretty indestructible. Few motors in the 540/550 can size can hurt it if there's a fan on it. You can of course kill everything if you really try, but the 1080 is a stout ESC.
  2. I would like to point out that even though the TT02 has an enclosed gearbox, 1 it can still fit a pretty big pinion and a 64 tooth spur, and 2, you don't need to use the gearbox cover plate anyway. I don't know about the TRF onroad cars, but my TRF 503 buggy is definitely not a good speed run candidate. It's a fierce track weapon, but useless as an actual speed run machine.
  3. Are you looking for a pure onroad car or are you into doing speed runs with buggies as well? At any rate, the TT02 and TT02B can be made to run stupid fast for sure. Lots of room for both motor and battery. A TT02 with the correct hopups, such as GPM metal diffs, along with various other parts as well as a Hobbywing EzRun Max10 120SCT and a TP Power 3635 4D on 4S and you're looking at a very fast setup, if you can keep it on the ground that is.
  4. I definitely spend most of my time building, cleaning and tinker. I never put a dirty rc away and I enjoy checking everything once done. For this reason, running nitro is also easy as I never have an engine that has been left to sit after a run. I clean my electric cars just as much, and swap the occassional(read, quite often) hop-up part etc. Here everything runs and can be taken out with a moments notice. I know many who has as many rc's as I, but my rigs are always complete and in working order. I hate it when I see a nice collection of rc's, only to find that half of them are in pieces or not working. So yes, wrenching and building is the "thing", but I spend plenty of time running my rigs as well.
  5. The Antix 7.6v lihv 5200mah packs are great packs. Good quality, good power, and they are true stick packs in shape. They fit properly in all models made for classic stick packs. This is a great cheap charger that will charge everything - including the new lihv packs. https://www.skyrc.com/iMAX_B6AC_V2_Charger Where are you located?
  6. I have a 10.5T 3421 KV Absima motor and a 19T pinion in my Neo. Perfect for me and plenty drivable. What ever you do though, when upgrading your Neo, put some proper tyres on it. The stock tyres are useless beyond description. Do you run on grass or dirt?
  7. Rapicon also makes both car and boat specific fuels. The fuel I tried and which I found to be chit, was their 25/11 car mix.
  8. I had two jugs last summer. Every couple of tanks I could spend a ton of time digging out carbon dust. There were litterally a pile of it on top of my piston after I had run the car for an entire day, about 9-10 tanks. Never again will I run that. When I run either Sidewinder or Modeltechnics Big Bang, my engines are nice and lubed inside, and everything is nice , clean and golden. Only other fuel I used that also had issues with carbon deposits were Nitrolux. Hotfire and Byron can leave a tiny bit, but nothing that will hurt anything, and can't be cleaned out when taking the engine apart for general maintenance or prior to long time storage.
  9. Definitely go with Hotfire if you can get that. It will work well in all your engines. It runs similar to Byron. I still prefer Sidewinder, but the Hotfire is a good fuel overall.
  10. Why can't your local dealer get Rapicon 25% fuel? Not a big fan of Rapicon. Makes too much soot and runs too hot for my liking. The price of 35 Euro for a gallon of Sidewinder 30% is actually pretty good. Just buy 4-5 jugs to offset the shipping cost. You'll go through it in no time anyway. Sidewinder is definitely one of the best fuels on the market and well worth the money.
  11. These guys ship http://www.osengines.gr/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2461&zenid=ih0t4dm61r3fgtqab2khkac1o1 These guys might help too. https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/B3130191/byron-race-2500-gen2-25-fuel-1-2-gallon-11- Or these guys http://www.rcparts.eu/racing-experience-hot-fire-euro-25-nitro-off-road-fuel-5l.html Here maybe? https://www.modellsport.gr/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=3973
  12. First things first. There is absolutely no problem switching fuel. All you need to be aware of, is the fact that you need to retune your engine when switching. Secondly. What you want is a good 25% nitro fuel(not gasoline) with 10-12% oil. No more, no less. It's a myth that a lot of oil will make the engine live longer and run cooler. Fact is that too much oil will make it run hot and there's a much smaller tolerance for lean conditions. Too much oil will also hydrolock your engine more, thus wear out bearings and snap conrods and wrist pins much easier. Byron 25/11 gen2 mix works great, so does Sidewider 25/12 and Big Bang 25/10. You can run a 20/16 fuel with castor for initial idle breakin, but not for much else. What 25% fuel is available where you are? All your engines will work well with the suggested fuels. The .28 in your Savage and the LRP will also run very well on 30% nitro.
  13. Here you go. https://www.gpmparts.com/tamiya-tt02b-spring-steel-turnbuckle-with-plastic-ends-7pcs-set-gpm-tt2b160p-p-90071609.html Add this. https://www.gpmparts.com/tamiya-tt02b-alloy-steering-assembly-with-bearing-1set-for-tt02-gpm-tt2b048b-p-90072896.html
  14. This is what you want. https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/quicrun-wp-1080-brushed-esc Get a W T F Windy fan on it and you're good to go.
  15. Make sure you shim the hubs. The less play there is, the better. Shimming will add stability between the shaft and inner bearing race. Make sure your wheels are balanced. Unballanced wheels are just as hard on bearings as bent shafts. Use a good lube. I know many like a thin oil that makes the bearing spin really freely, but it does not protect the bearing from neither dirt, heat or impact. Use a thin teflon grease inside. Initially they may seem a bit stiff, but excess grease will be pushed out, and the bearing will spin much more freely once it gets a bit of heat into it.
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