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About DK308

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    Hopefully some place nice
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    Wife, cars, motorsport, work, RC's, work, fun, friends, work, travel, sport and fitness.

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  1. I second anything SkyRC. Great stuff. D100, D200 or D400 depending on your budget. And unless you run some large 4S and 6S 10+Ah lipo packs, those are all you need. Yes, you can get more powerful chargers than the D200 and D400, but that's more power than most 2-6S sub 10Ah packs can handle. And trying to charge nimh packs at more that 3C is surefire way to ruin them. At the end of the day your cells dictate how fast you can charge them, not your charger.
  2. Instead of cutting and mangling things, why not just do a proper fix rather than a bandaid? Get a nice pair ally hexes that are 1-2 mm thicker than stock. Also, have you tried to shim the stock hexes? Might be as simple as putting a 0.5 mm shim behind each hex to get rid of all rubbing and flex.
  3. Never had any heat issues with the TP motors. The one I suggested is only 65mm long. I've used that particular TP in some different application, and have never had it too hot. I still think it's an interesting choice. Other than a select few 3665 and 3674 motors, not sure what else is out there delivering that kind of power.
  4. Yup. Hook it directly to a 4 cell nimh pack and just dunk it right in. Best way to break in and clean brushed motors. You'll be surprised at how dirty that water will be once done. Here are some easy steps to follow for best results. Once done running in the water, remove it from the water while it is still running. With the motor running, blow it as dry as possible with compressed air spray. With the motor still running and holding it so that the shaft faces down, spray Duratrax Powershot "up" in the motor. This will get the last gunk and water out. Give it another good blow of air. Unplug it and lube the bearings. That's it. Remember that your motor should spin the same direction when you break it in or clean it, as it spins when run in your rig. For a brand new motor or a really dirty one, just let it "stew" in the water for 30 mins. Don't use lipos for this, and anything above a 4 cell nimh will just wear things rather than break them in or clean them in my experience. If it's a really slow motor like a stock 540 or lower rpm, you can use a 5 cell pack. But for anything half decent spinning 20k+ rpm. 4.8 volts is the ticket.
  5. Clean the brushes with some 1500 paper. Then run your motor in a glass of demineralized water for 15 mins on a 4.8 volt pack hooked up directly. Blow it dry with compressed air while it is running. Lube the bearings when it's dry. Your brushes are most likely burnt due to incorrect break in. Running it in the water after cleaning the brushes with sand paper, will also clean the rotor and give you good contact. Good contact and clean surfaces = less heat and more speed. The brushes in the picture has a lot left. Just take them out occassionally and see if there's full surface contact. When there is not, time for new brushes.
  6. Every Tamiya enthusiast should try and build a TRF at least once. They are amazing cars and really fun to build.
  7. Was given this carburetor today to try for an .18 Noram engine. Looks like a nice piece, but I don't have a clue as to what brand it is. Anybody knows? Thanks
  8. Had a 200RS. Was my first nitro. Did come with a different engine. It had a round cooling head rather than the squared. Ran well but the pull start was utter crap.
  9. Instead of removing and modding, there are other alternatives. I know of people who have used adapters so they could use 29 series brushless motors. One of these http://smallpartscnc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=203 with one of these in a 6D http://www.tppowereurope.com/Webwinkel-Product-49250081/TP2935.html Run it with a Hobbywing 10BL120 ESC and you have one seriously hardcore sandrail. It may be a "puny" 29 motor, but it has more power than a lot of 3674 motors out there.
  10. My TRF503 will hang with most things out there. By far the best handling offroader Tamiay has built. Pair it up with the right tyres and you have a rig that will run hard with the latest and greatest. A cheaper alternative if you can find one, is the DB01RRR. If you prefer 2WD, the TRF211XM is hard to beat for the price.
  11. Tape it up around the windows. Then use a rag and Tamiya paint remover. Double up on the tape to make sure the remover won't get through.
  12. There's a set of Himoto alloy A arms available for the Python XV3. If your rig shares A arms with the Himoto, you can try those. These are the part numbers. Front: 166019 Rear: 166021
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