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DK308

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Everything posted by DK308

  1. In my experience the most expensive and best 13.5T motors are in the 3400-3600KV range. That's too low. 5200KV seems high for a 10.5T. It might read that on the tin, but I doubt it will do it. Semantics... At any rate, I'd go for anything above 4800KV based on my ownership experience with the XV-01 on various setups.
  2. 13.5T is definitely too low to really take advantage of going brushless in the XV-01. I run a sensored 9.5T which is 4120KV on stock gearing, and was I to do it again, I'd probably look into 8.5T or 7.5T. 5500 KV might be on the tall side, I'd shoot for 4800-5000KV. The XV-01 can take a lot of power from an actual handling standpoint. Unless people own an XV-01, it's just assumptions.
  3. Thanks. Not sure yet. I'm doing a simple "basher body" in white and black with only the lights, and name decals. Will basically paint it like a Mud Blaster 2 with black upper and white lower. Easy to paint and easy to decal. Later I will do a "box art" style deal, but with a different multi-layer blue. LRP Ice Blue with a flip incorporated. Not sure yet, but either do a flip with LRP Sapphire or Tamiya PS-46. At some point it will end up as a USA-1 with the JConcepts body and JConcepts Clod sized wheels.
  4. You're most welcome. I take it that your packs are new correct? New NiMh packs likes to be cycled when new. I don't believe your charger has a cycle program. Just go out at drive the car a few times. Run it down and recharge. Now when you charge these new packs, lower the amps a bit. Charge at 1 ah instead of 3.5 ah for the first 6-7 times. Charging will take longer, but hey.
  5. Got a NIB Twin Detonator as well as a bunch of hop-ups. Bearings, servo saver, 880 ESC, Quick change battery holder, and so on. Now all I need to show up is the shocks, towers and servo holder.
  6. That charger is perfectly fine. Discharge the battery and see how long it takes to charge at 3.5 ah.
  7. No. We have cameras that overlook the driveway and garage area. We are normally on good terms and usually I let it slide. I had taken the car home the same day and it was going in for PPF the following Monday. What shook him was not that I asked him to pay, but how much he had to pay. He's not a car guy, so he has no idea about such things. Took the car to my dealer and got an estimate, and that was what I asked for when I told him what had happened. He would have been off worse had I gone though the insurance, because then he would also have been hit with diminished value after getting a respray.
  8. As was suggested above, charge your pack at 1C or as close to - i.e 3 or 3.5 ah if possible. Now before you do that, drain the battery. Put the car on a stand, or remove the wheels. Then set your trim so that it just runs like 1/4 throttle. Let it run down until cut-off. Then time your charging and see how long it takes. If you charge at 3 ah and it puts about 3 ah into your battery, it should take about 1 hour. If you have a charger that can cycle the battery, do that 3-4 times. What charger do you have? If all you have is a wall wart, start there and get a proper charger. It does not have to be a big deal, just something reliable and dependable. I suggest this. Have had mine for years and it never fails to do things right. I have bigger, faster and more advanced chargers, but this is a great little workhorse. https://www.skyrc.com/iMAX_B6AC_V2_Charger
  9. Nothing so far in over 30 years. I'm a pretty calm dude - until I see people not picking up after their dogs. I love dogs and own dogs, and I ALWAYS clean up, even in secluded forest areas. The neighbours cat in the garden is one thing which grinds my gears, but the neighbours cat on the bonnet of a brand new car is another. They always have the same lame excuse, and we have tall fences and everything - it's not hard for them to keep their pets out of my land. It happened again about a month ago, but this time I setn the bill to him and bypassed the insurance. He was a bit shaken about the 7000 Euro for getting the bonnet resprayed and polished. Don't get me started on people who can't clean up after their pets at the beach.
  10. Picked up a Marui Ninja NIB today. Good times.
  11. Not that I can tell. Ordered everything today, so will know soon enough.
  12. Thanks! Great link. So settled on a plan. GPM towers GPM servo mounts GMade 93 XD shocks Ball bearings HD servo saver out of my TRF503 880 ESC A pair of Graupner Speed 600 BB SP 7.2v motors Hardened steel pinions Are ball-end upper arms and CVD shafts a must?
  13. I find just about every single aspect of my life more exciting now as a 41 year old, than when I was 15. Not that 15 was bad, it was a ton of fun, but now I can do pretty much what ever I want by comparison.
  14. A tight ball diff definitely makes a difference, especially since you put tyres on it with actual grip. The original setup was not only open and very light, the tyres themselves allow for a lot of slippage. Now add the weight of the new driveline, the weight of the new tyres which are also larger in diameter, and you have made significant changes to the load the motor sees. Lastly you added a lipo which can deliver a lot more current than a nimh pack. Get the Monster Beetle boots on it and loosen up that diff. It will unload the motor quite a bit. Add a heatsink with a fan. That will pull some heat from the can if changing the tyres and loosening the diff won't help enough. If I was in your shoes, I'd shop around for a 550 mjll. A Kyosho Mega 360 would be a great choice. If you want a cheaper alternative to the 360, I'd get this. Awesome workhorse and 21k rpm. https://www.hobmamodelbouw.nl/product/speed-600-bb-sp-72v/
  15. I think my single most expensive thing was my Losi DBXL-E 2.0. However that 's not the same as it being my most expensive RC. I have some pretty expensive MHZ boats with TP 5690 power and 400 A MGM ESC's. I have a few kits that are in the same price range as the DBXL-E, but that does not even include power or Rx/Tx. I'm just not into paying through the nose for vintage stuff I guess. Happy that they do re-re's.
  16. Hey gang Been offered a NIB Twin Detonator. What is a reasonable asking price here in Europe? Will of course be adding the tall shock towers, oil shocks etc. Other mods needed straight off the bat? Anyone know of an adapter that makes it easy to fit Clod wheels on it? Thanks all.
  17. Hey gang Been offered a NIB Twin Detonator. What is a reasonable asking price here in Europe? Will of course be adding the tall shock towers, oil shocks etc. Other mods needed straight off the bat? Thanks all.
  18. Thank you. No I chose not to back it at all. It is quite dark in its natural form. If I were to use this colour again, I'd probably try and back it with something light that would bring out a bit of warmth. I'd try a tri layer combo with PS-18, PS-40 and finish with PS-1. Definitely a fun colour for playing around with backing colours.
  19. Thanks guys. Ordered up a 15.5 TBLM-02S I run lipo and nimh, so just trying to add a bit of spice.
  20. Here we go. Avante in PS-18 Metallic Purple. Now some might wonder where the driver is, but I HATE drivers in my RC's. Always have, always will.
  21. Yeah I think it does. PS18 is still a purple and not violet, so it goes really well with the decals. I have to finish off a few things before posting picks, but soon.
  22. Hi gang. Does anybody have experience with the TBLM 02S motors in motors in an Avante or Egress for that matter? How much will performance increase by going with one of these motors compared to a stock Avante motor? Talking re-re of course. Thanks
  23. Just finished my Avante. A very interesting build for sure. I'm not so sure that I will call it top notch quality per se. It is quite complex and very cool, but it has some things going on I just don't understand - especially the massive use of e-clips. I suppose it is one of those intriguing kits we just need in our collections. When looking at an Optima Mid, I think it's easy to see why it never won any races. Would I be without it? No, and I don't regret buying and building it. Hope to pick up an Egress soon as well as a Top Force Evo. I guess those are just three models any self respecting Tamiya fan needs lol. Did mine in PS-18 to add a bit of flair compared to the normal blue metallic. Looks killer with the yellow wheels, decals and gold parts. Will post a few pics soon:-)
  24. Bush Devil/Super Blackfoot. Egress re-re-re Original Clod
  25. What are your going to use them for? You might be better off trying to get the parts and measure yourself if you are trying to make a hop-up part. How and what we measure might be slightly different than what you get.
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