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  1. The problem with smaller setups is how close the wheel is to the main body of the grinder/polisher. The spindle adapter may not be a bad idea, as they usually end up moving the wheel away from the machine. Get a basic assortment of polishing compounds in stick form and a spiral sewn cotton wheel to start. Read the guide as to what compound is for what purpose and experiment. Too much pressure will cause the wheel to disintegrate in a flurry of threads... so does polishing things with sharp edges. Time, compound and wheel construction make all the difference... don't force it. There must be some excellent polishing vids on Utube.... Long ago, I sanded everything first with progressively finer grades of paper... all the way from 400 to 1500 grit... by hand with a bucket of water or in the kitchen sink... a messy, dirty and hand cramping task. Heavy compounds and a sisal wheel can smooth castings pretty quickly, but won't flatten, and can screw up the surface pretty quick. With the SRB case... there are a lot of places even a wheel as small as a 1" Dremel buff won't get to. So you'll be 'stuck' going after those areas with pointy felt bobs on a rotary tool... they work, it just takes time.
  2. Andy, I use a 'huge' 8" wheel set on an old decommissioned (broken rest and missing shield) grinder from work. Pulled off all the shields, screwed to a mobile tool stand, it works great and is easy to swap buffs on. Sisal for heavy duty smoothing used with those greasy sticks of heavy compound, sewn cotton with normal grades and an unsewn/loose cotton (I like to call it a flapper, as it's all over the place for final shine and plastics. Remove the tool rest and guards, find a wheel you can get onto the arbor and you can really get a decent shine quickly on the SRB stuff. Mirror shines require sanding everything flat and smooth before attempting any polishing. The gear case has so many nooks and crannies, even with little tiny felt buffs and cotton wheels in a Dremel... you're going to be at it for a very long time. I just polished up my old SuperChamp and am in the process of trying to get a Rough Rider body fitted so I can do a Malcom Smith BelRay Bullet scheme... but so much is aftermarket... it's tough going. Wear eye protection (preferably a face shield!) and cotton gloves. I had the safety glasses on (thankfully!) when the CRP roll bar got yanked from my tired fingers... and that sucker hit me so hard in the face... you might as well have punched me. The safety glasses got a nice nick over the right eye... would have probably been poked out by that one. Polishing is messy... be prepared for lots of threads and crap flying about.
  3. Walnut shell in the blast cabinet turned out to be the perfect media for removing the 'metal tint' I'd applied so many decades ago. The sad bit is there are almost no original bits left to go into the rebuild. Front suspension bits, steer saver and the gear box. Is a brass idler gear even stock? I know I had a full set of brass gears at one point and returned to the plastic for the largest, big brass gear was robbing power At least the aluminum buts come up pretty shiny without a lot of effort (8" wheel and some green rouge). I'm going to refuse to go through the mirror shine process as it's way too much labor.
  4. I needed front dogbones for a Marui Samurai, given to me free... ended up that RedCat dogbones, labeled as 61mm were an excellent replacement. Shy of the originals by only about a mm, they've been performing well. Measure up at about 56-57mm pin to pin (centers). Part number was 02003. A couple of shock O-rings tucked into the cups might be enough to get you running until you find a suitable replacement. Cheap and easy experiment at least...
  5. Robotnik, everyone's correct... the matte is for the outside. Mask off the windows and anything you want shiny on the outside, spray the exterior, the matte will take the lexan shine away nicely. Good luck and post a pic.
  6. Fun... doesn't it need to be fun? Doubt many folks are making the rent or mortgage running RC cars these days (or ever for that matter). Back when we raced, it was about having a good time, as with many hobbies, there's always folks who begin to take it way too seriously. When you're driving a stock class car and someone's kid shows up with one worth more than all your RC gear/cars and the actual 1:1 car you're drove to get there.... kinda takes some of the fun away. I instituted a 'Grasshopper racing league', it was the cheaters racing group! There were only 5 or 6 rules: The motor and gear ratios had to remain stock, standard 7.2v packs only, the chassis tub and battery door had to be used as is and the stock, screw on body had to be used, rear suspension (such as it was) needed to use only 'hopper or Hornet mounts. Any other mods were OK. I had hollow rear axles, bearings emptied of grease, narrowed, lightened and cut back gears and even oil filled shocks up front (where the shaft passed through the shock body both top and bottom). No car was ever really faster than another and it was about FUN, driving skill and experimenting with ideas to make a car faster within the rules (Smokey Yunick was a personal hero) and working around them as much as possible. Enjoyable and cheap to get into... everyone usually shared their mods... although I kept the narrowed and cut back gears a secret for a whole season I have a feeling that the reason crawling, especially scale stuff is so popular is the slow pace and fun factor. Couple weeks a go I had the CR01 and stock GrassHopper and LunchBox out in the yard with a few friends and beers. Some had never touched an RC car controller. Besides bashing the stockers about, the crawler was a huge hit, with a couple of them very interested in getting their own... the slow pace and easy enjoyment factoring in heavily. Been working a bit of the land to clear and level an area for an '80's style RC track... simple and basic, no four foot high triples to clear, no 10 meter tabletops, no enormous banked turns... jumps, whoops and turns limited to something a Grasshopper can handle and the SuperChamp and RC10 restos can rip around on. Already working on a fleet of identical 'Hoppers in varying hues, as the loaner racing fleet, all built to the same standard as my personal runner. Hoping for the kind of fun we had nearly 40 years ago....
  7. Kev, it was home made. I had a few different pieces of music wire I tried before settling on the one that's been there for... forever. The brass bits were RC boat or airplane control stuff, the upper end of the link rods are soldered onto the 4-40 and use a smaller ball than Tamiya standard (guess it was standard for scratchbuilt back when). The real trick was tuning it by moving the ball on the wire to increase or decrease the action. The short shocks keep the rear arms from drooping too far and the sway bar helps keep the rear level... without the ball diff, it allows the car to be slid around turns... with one, the car really handled acceptably. Front sway bar I made, seemed to work against it, it got tossed (same with the RC10).
  8. Perhaps the sky blue (49) backed with a darker color like the brilliant blue(30)? You'll need to experiment a bit. One of the translucent colors will really change color drastically depending on the backing color and the number of coats of each. Plastic soda bottles are cheap and easy way to experiment with color. Remember, the rust and dirt go on first when you're painting from the inside.
  9. Thanks, I'm afraid to get carried away with it. I have the ability to get all the smooth aluminum bits back up to a mirror shine before recoating... and then of course I'll want to polish the arms, uprights and gear case too. I've been down that rabbit hole before... in the end, the journey might be worth it just for the joy of it... but then I might not want to bash it about... and I really do want to. I've already purchased a nearly complete set of plastics for the RC10 and dyed them purple, orange and yellow just like I did way back when. But, it's just a refresh and dress up of a stocker... not the 80's pride n joy.
  10. Life was hard for this car. Bashed, raced outdoors indoors on a carpeted track with 2x4 borders, the rear arms were always a weak point. The fix? Add some rigidity... aluminum, JB Weld and tiny bolts.
  11. I've rescued my original SuperChamp racer from the clutches of a friend I'd given it to long ago. Other than no longer having the Thorp diff or any good remaining tires (probably gave ten different sets with the car!), it's as complete as it used to be. The original bits and pieces disappeared long ago, I've picked up some re-re spares to replaced cracked and broken bits. Do I remove all the faux anodizing (Metal tint spray can) and bring all the aluminum bits back to bare metal and try to duplicate it again along with the new bits getting the same treatment? Or go for the blast cabinet finish on everything? I am going to run the car... there's so little left. The Novak and steer servo still work perfectly! Currently restoring an early 'Cadillac' RC10 into a runner, as it was my replacement for the SuperChamp when it just couldn't be kept competitive back in...'84 - '85?
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