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  1. Love it. Keep going. The Boba Fet paint scheme is great. Your body builds were the inspiration fro rescuing the crushed Monster Beetle's body I've been toying with. Styrene and solvent has awakened a long dormant 'need' to build some scale stuff... and the beetle doesn't need to look 'right', so I can refresh my paltry skills.
  2. Could you have flipped the pinion gear around on the shaft.... so the set screw would still be on the flat portion... but the 'gear' would move closer to the motor? Sometimes... that's all it takes to get the clearance... so long as it makes good contact with the spur gear. I have found that some of the new motors are considerably longer where the bearing/ bushing area is... and I have to 'flip' the pinion to get a decent fit.
  3. Now it's too nice... take it out and get it all filthy again... before it ends up staying on the shelf. Got to run the restored Willy, Lunchbox, a re-re Grasshopper and the CC01 with friends last weekend. Of course they're all filthy, one broke (Lunchie's steer ball ripped out of the servo saver) and everyone had a great time bashing about in the dirt. Needless to say... we'll be doing it again next weekend... can't wait
  4. The first RC car I ever built was a Super Champ. I'd been building scale boat kits from Dumas and others for a few years and had invited many a friend to go 'play' at the pond. One was very interested, but the months long build process was something he was not interested in. Gave him a stack or RC Modeler magazines and a few days later we were off to buy a kit. We spent the entire afternoon and evening assembling the car, he needed a lot of hand holding as he had no knowledge of the radio/servo setup. I really enjoyed the 'quick' build and resulting car, the instructions were superb and once we figured out that the illustrations were 1:1 with the screws and such... impressed! Needless to say many models followed, nearly all were Tamiya. Many 'alternate' brands were disappointing in fit, finish, instructions or even materials... but a Tamiya build never was... even when the car ran like rubbish. I enjoy the build nearly as much as the cars. For all the decades since, I've recommended a Tamiya as a starting point for anyone interested in getting into the hobby. Usually a Grasshopper, as they're wonderfully simple and tough, with the added bonus of tossing in a 540 when more speed is 'required'. Who recommends a race car as someone's first car? My fully loaded Super Champ was my race car. Reasonably competitive until the RC10's started showing up on the track. I even ended up using RC10 shocks to try and stay in the podium group. It was pointless and after a year or so... I caved. Associated had built an amazing car, a truly adjustable weapon, capable of being adapted to any track or driver (finicky, sometimes fragile and difficult to get setup 'perfectly'). I was occasionally back in the podium group. I learned, watched the Halsey VHS endlessly at the local hobby shop (they'd play it for me every time I came in) and tweaked the setup endlessly. Eventually lost interest when 'kids' were showing up at the track with multi thousand dollar cars and I was driving to the races in a $200 Pontiac and racing a $500 car... that couldn't keep up (well, at least I had my priorities straight) . The only bright spot became the "Grasshopper Racing League", where everything was legal and the only rules were 7.2v (sub C's), battery door had to be used and the stock 380 & gear ratio could not be tweaked/tampered or altered in any way... the 'cheaters' league!... hollow axles, cut away tubs and narrowed gears were all permissible... great fun for those who enjoyed experimenting and closely matched racing. I don't build race cars anymore... I build FUN cars. Tamiya cars are fun, from opening the box and discovering all the blister packed (miss that), bagged and boxed bits, through the building, right down to the running of them. No interest in racing anymore... just the pleasure of building and running the cars. The older I get, the more I miss the 'Hopper League....
  5. Cut a small plug shape from the foam, insert it into each inner and outer drive cup, before the dogbones go in. The foam acts like a spring, tries to keep the dogbone centered between the cups, doesn't allow them to go too far into either cup. If it can't go all the way into one cup, it shouldn't be able to pop out of the other side... so long as all the suspension is moving the way it should. I pulled an RC10 upper arm and snapped a shot, you can just barely see it stuffed in there (it's not even straight :), a normal one is on the ball to the left. I usually like to use disposable orange foam ear plugs (because I have a box full, any disposable ear plug will work), they have almost no tension, so you can fit a nice sized piece in there, and they 'squish' easily so they can't really put any force on the dogbone. Try a piece about 6mm/ 1/4" long, just stuff it into each cup, assemble the suspension and check for binding. If it's all good, it is! Add or take away as needed. RC10's had an actual spring in the outdrive cup already, but I believe they recommended the foam in the inner cup as extra insurance (and it keeps dirt from filling the cup!). It's just something I've been doing for so long... that I do not remember where the idea originated. It does eventually wear out, but the cost is little more than the time to cut new ones and replace them.
  6. Believe it or not... I was thinking of razor sawing the case open and adding some ABS or styrene to make the case the tiny bit taller. That, or 'machine' wells into the case halves, using a 3/4" Dremel type circular saw blade. Pretty sure the Tamiya cases can be glued with ABS plumbing cement... a long time ago, I built a new cell set into the giant grey Bruiser battery pack using much better 'D' cells, and am pretty sure I glued it back closed using plumbing stuff or just my regular Plastruct. Bonus note: While searching the garage bins for the thick sheets of styrene I'd stashed, I found a set of original Bruiser axles and wheels. They're beat up, but intact... which surprised me! I had quite a few Bruisers, some ruined ones were cannibalized for spares... as I'd built a 3 to 1 chain and sprocket gear reduction to run 8" rim, air filled tires (think hand truck) like a 'real' monster truck... and broke a bunch of axles as a result. Reverted back to regular sized wheels and it was much more realistic (guess I was crawling... long before there were crawlers) off roader. Sadly, all those 'toys' were sold off to pay for the 1:1 cars and motorcycles, now, I wish I'd kept them all...
  7. Foam, cut from disposable ear plugs, or the foam protectors for ball n cup linkages (like Associated RC10's used, shown in pic) in each cup, can help keep either end of the dog bone from working it's way out.. Just enough for a little tension when the cups are at their closest point in the suspension travel, you don't want it to bind and try to push the suspension away from the chassis. It's cheap, easy to do and makes a big difference that no one but you will know is there.
  8. Tudorp, thanks... that's what I understood to be the problem with NiMh cells. That's why I threw together the four cell Li-Ion, but I don't trust them as 'safe' for non hobby people... want something 'safer'. Although I might get out the Dremel and slice open the original hump pack to see what can be done Biz, thanks, that's perfect! That's what I'm going to have to go for as soon as I know she'll play with it, she desperately needs some fun.... Or I'll just go crazy, buy cells and build another spot welder (spot shorter?) and of course get all the 'stuff' again. I haven't built a 'matched cell' pack since the '80's, when buying bulk Sanyo cells, and all that 'matching' entailed was a yearly ritual at the start of the race season. I don't miss the process, not one bit... but having a pack that went the full 4 or 5 minutes was important. I'm still amazed at the run times I get with the current 'cheap' NiMh packs.
  9. Willy lives! Been six months of other things to do, but I finally got to the finish line. It's still going to be bashed, so I forgave sourcing another windscreen and brackets, flipped the badly cracking tires around when I repainted the rims and gave the body a few coats of clear lacquer to restore some shine (Yes, she painted it blue 35 years ago). Bronze bushing all replaced with nice ball bearings and a HW1060 for speed control. The HiTek was the only 'barn attic' radio that still functioned, every other one was put away wet with AA's installed (receivers and transmitters all rotten inside). Assuming the Samurai I pulled it from, blew out the dogbones and that saved it... batteries scavenged for the other vehicles. Runs and drives just as badly as I remember them but it wheelies wonderfully. Question: What do you do for a battery in these things? The setup is only sized for the old plastic cased Tamiya batteries. I built a Li-Ion 4 cell pack and that works, but I hate them and don't want her house to catch on fire. Is there a 'modern' NiMh (3000ma +) hump pack available... or do I need to make my own from cells (Been a longggg time since I built packs)? I do have an original Tamiya hump pack in fabulous external condition, will slice open if NiMh's will fit inside.
  10. "I need a barn like this... " Even urbanites have barns. Just ask someone over 50... they probably have a few gathering mouse turds or spider eggs in an attic, garage or basement. Like these, they'll have been put away, wet, broken and have had the batteries left in them :) None of the three have a working radio among them. The Beetle's HiTek is rotten at both the transmitter and receiver, the Clod transmitter is gone missing completely ( I looked for 30 minutes, through dozens of boxes and bins) and the Willy's transmitter has had the battery terminals rot away. Going to try salvaged Hitek terminals in a Futaba... Tired of dealing with the layers of gooey black paint (yes, whatever the last coat of paint was, never hardened) and epoxy repairs, I stripped it using the safe but time consuming brake fluid method (can't find my gallon of aircraft stripper?). The original paint layer was a nice shiny black under all the 'whatever' that was on top. It'll never be straight, but it'll be a body again. Massive amounts of styrene reinforcing the underside, it'll also get some Mad Max inspired reinforcements over the top, for added visual 'appeal'.
  11. I'm currently using the silicone rubber seals from some automotive connectors (Deutsch type) to add a little bit of tension. I'm running the same Associated shocks I ran way back when, and while rare, a hard landing used to undo the lower ball joint. The wire ties were in the manual back in the day, you won't see it in a Re-Re manual though (wonder why?). The wire ties were never meant to be tightened down, they were more like limit straps... to prevent the balls popping out of the cups. At one point I was using the little rubber bands from orthodontic braces... recently notice the niece's enormous collection of small rubber bands for making bracelets... think they'd be perfect, and am going to snag a bunch in some colors.
  12. Isolation is helping. Haven't done more than clean my friends Clod, but the Beetle is getting cobbled back together while working on his wife's Willy. As an 'essential' worker, my shop is working 6 hour overtimes, 5 days a week and 8 hour tours on weekends, there's been little time for the models these last few months. I stalled on the repairs... I hate waiting for glue to dry, and need to sit down with the intent of working... so having more than one body to fool with works splendidly. I hate the modern Willy grille, so fabbed one from scratch, thankfully the new driver figure included headlamps and winch (markers are Lego 'singles'? and will get epoxy lenses).
  13. While searching for the transmitter to rebuild an original Wild Willy for a friend, the barn attic spewed forth a couple more 80's classics. After blowing off the dust, copious mouse turds and nesting, I removed the remaining rotten electronics (obviously run hard and put away wet), hosed, scrubbed with soap and water and hosed again. The Clod is in pretty good shape with only a couple of body and tub cracks evident. The three wheeled Beetle (really two... one remaining wheel is cracked horribly at the hub) is trashed! The story is that it was run over by a 1:1 car, but every plastic bearing is shot and the body speaks for itself. The good news is the 'glass resin isn't bonded to the body and is coming off nicely with some work. The Beetle body might make a nice post apocalyptic build some day. I have the new (55 turns, adj mounts, 9T pinions, bearings and ESC) bits for 'restoring' the Clod, so it should be back up and running soon enough.
  14. Ferruz, that John Player scheme has been a favorite since the first time I saw one. Lovely, it's going to look fantastic. Everyone's sheltering in place and staying home... except folks like me... deemed essential and getting to work every day... the only blessing is traffic has been non-existent… turning commuting into a joy instead of drudgery. Weather is finally starting to warm up, so I'll be on to the nerve wracking job of painting a bunch of bodies, including the RC10's... eventually.
  15. I remember using the foil tape on the outside of rear wings, and 'buffing' with steel wool to get the look of the fancy aluminum wings. The inside of the shell is something I've never seen before. Been rebuilding an 'A' stamped Cadillac myself, trying to replicate the one I replaced my Superchamp with. Thankfully, Associated repop'd the car, so replacement bits were so easy to source. Going to be a runner, so I set all the original suspension plastics aside, bought new and dyed in the old scheme. Body needs finishing, but there's a bunch of other projects all going on at the same time... my Superchamp, which has almost nothing left now that the gearcase turned out to have ruined bores for the bearings.; a 80's Wild Willy and Clodbuster that belong to a best friend husband and wife duo; a badly abused Samurai and the brother in law's Frog. Everyone needs theirs fixed for them after being allowed to bash about with some of my runners... I know... purple and yellow with orange? Even orange Sharpie on the edges of the shock towers! The bright yellow with purple body will be an eyesore as well... but the car was easy to spot on the track
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