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About AJB123

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  1. AJB123

    RE. RE. NOVAFOX........

    I think they’re completely different. From memory the Fox/Novafox have all plastic gears. Even the 3 little bevel gears which sit in the big gear are plastic bevels that you slide onto a little metal shaft each. The Hotshot ones are one piece of cast metal making up the little gear and its axle. The Hotshot has metal bevel gears onto each driveshaft too. That’s not to say that the whole thing might not end up being the same size as the Hotshot one, but I think it’s unlikely as every part is different. The Wild One, on the other hand, uses metal bevels which look to me to be very similar, if not identical, to the Hotshot ones. I’ve never compared them side by side though. For what it’s worth I never had any problems with my old Fox’s gearbox back in the day. I wore out 2 motor pinions (one to the point of it slipping with a horrible graunching noise instead of the car moving), a motor, and 2 sets of driveshafts, but never once had any issues with the diff or other gears. i fixed it up recently after probably 27 years rest, gave it some Novafox driveshafts, new steering ball joints, and it lives again! Enjoy yours!
  2. AJB123

    Missing e-clip - where to get replacements.

    Looking at a download of the rere manual, I’d say you should use the uprights on their own small tree. Not only does the manual not label them as C parts (although I think it’d be C1 - C3 and C4 look like the rear uprights), the C1 uprights are dark grey in the picture of all parts included near the back of the manual. Dark grey means “not used on this kit”. With the E clips, have a really good look as said. I thought my rere Hotshot was missing a small metal tube, but eventually (and I mean eventually- I’d resigned myself to the fact it was missing) I found it hiding around another metal part, where it was almost an exact fit and very well disguised. Not saying they don’t make mistakes, but I haven’t had a missing part yet.
  3. AJB123

    Help with Re-Re Tamiya FROG.

    Bind the bearings as in the plastic hub rubs on the bearing outer? If so, could it be fixed with a small washer between the hub and bearing? (Small as in outside diameter smaller than the bearing outer race's smallest diameter)
  4. No, sorry, I don’t know 100%. I’ve never had a vintage Hotshot so I’m just going from a scanned manual online. That does say window net bag as yours does though. When an MSC wears out it’ll be the contacts that go not the spring, so I’d have thought a spring from a used one would be just fine if you can find one. I’m afraid I’ve no idea what other kits might use the same spring in their MSCs, but someone more knowledgable will hopefully come along!
  5. From looking at a manual online, I'd say yes it is important. It looks like that spring is the thing which pulls the contacts on the moving part of the speed controller onto the pads on the circuit board with the right force. Without it there the contacts won't be pulled down and won't make a good circuit. If you know roughly how long and stiff it is/was you might be able to use a spring from a pen or something else? But you wouldn't want it too soft (as it won't make good contact), or too stiff (as it will wear out the tracks/pads too fast). Is it definitely lost? Magnets swept over a surprisingly large area can sometimes track down an escaped spring?
  6. That's excellent news. So you've got 3 re res? I've only got 2... That means I must be at least one short of "normal"..!!!
  7. I built a rere WildOne last year (my first Tamiya since my Fox in the 80s) and drilled the holes for that, which was awkward and not very satisfying (or round!). So for the Hotshot bought this reamer which is SO much better and easier - well worth the purchase. The clean cut out is fiddly - if you're using scissors then don't close them all the way to the tip even when you're snipping into a sharp corner. I've got a couple of tiny cracks in my body which I noticed after painting and, once I'd googled for it, realised are probably from fully closing them. Still - now that I've got the reamer AND learnt how to use a pair of scissors, I guess I'll need to build another at some point to see if I can do it better next time!
  8. Looks Good! We really were in step - I finished my Hotshot on Friday! A few pics (although I know I'm kind of an imposter on a Super Hotshot thread...!!)
  9. AJB123

    Debugging Grasshopper electrics

    Enjoy your first Tamiya once it's working!
  10. AJB123

    Debugging Grasshopper electrics

    From the TBLE-02S instructions here it looks like you should be using ESC yellow for motor + (yellow on the motor) and ESC blue for motor - (green on the motor). Orange then shouldn't be connected. I know my re-re HotShot manual says to use ESC red or orange for motor +, not yellow, so I assume your Grasshopper manual might be the same, but I guess they don't know what ESC you're going to be using and the kit manual is trying to be generic. Not helpful though!
  11. AJB123

    Hotshot rere front monoshock

    Haha! One of the reasons why I’m building a Hotshot right now, not a Super Hotshot!! 😃
  12. AJB123

    Hotshot rere front monoshock

    The springs on a "normal" suspension arrangement (i.e. one spring per wheel) resist the car's weight and also resist it trying to lean over in corners. If you push down the front of the car, both springs compress and it tries to push back up again. If you lean the car to one side, one spring compresses and the other gets longer, so they push back to try to make it level again. Some cars (and most real road cars) add a stabilizer (or anti roll bar) to this. It does nothing when you push the front of the car down (it can just rotate freely), but if you lean it to one side then the bar has to twist for one wheel to go up whilst the other goes down, so it gives extra resistance to roll in corners without making the car's springs/shocks stiffer over bumps, crests, jumps etc. With a monoshock, there is literally zero resistance to roll. If you push the car down then the springs compress, resist and push it back up again. But if you lean the car from side to side then the spring can just move from side to side without compressing. In the case of the Hotshot rear, if you lean from side to side, then the little aluminium links move in an opposite motion, the drop link can move from side to side a bit, and again the spring doesn't compress and nothing pushes back. So, with no anti roll bar, on a Hotshot the car would just lean over to the end stops on every corner. The anti roll bars stop it from doing that. On a car with 2 rear shocks but a single front monoshock, the rears will resist the roll. But, without a front anti roll bar, you're making the rear do all of the work of resisting roll with the front contributing nothing. This will tend to make the car lean over more in corners, and also oversteer more as the rear is doing more work during cornering.
  13. Interesting! Mine's a non-super too, but as you say it looks as if the bumper and fittings are identical - I checked a super-hotshot manual to see if they'd changed anything. The screw on mine did seem to be more like 5.6mm long rather than 6mm, so I wonder if they've got a batch of screws that are just slightly at the short end of the tolerance and that bumper screw is only just long enough anyway.
  14. I'm just going to be 7.2 Nimh too. I can't comment on the handling of mine yet as it hasn't got as far as having wheels! But from what I've read the chassis does understeer quite a bit. Apparently lifting off to get the weight to shift forwards as you start to turn in, and then accelerating once it's turning gets it around corners! I think not having a centre diff maybe doesn't help, but mostly the suspension geometry and weight distribution does it. I kind of think of it as character, though, this being their first ever 4WD chassis design. A brand new design would handle way better, but it's not the same! Bump steer it has a real reputation for - pressing down on the front suspension the wheels point in more, lifting it up they point out more. That doesn't help the handling and happens because the steering arms aren't parallel to the suspension arms - again, their first attempt and "character"! If I've understood what you mean about the inner wheel having more steer than the outer, though, then that's is deliberate and correct. It's Ackermann Steering and is correct because, looking from above, the inner wheels make a smaller circle than the outer ones, so the inner ones should be steered more. And yeah - I've no idea how that paint has lasted! It's a bit thick and gloopy, but OK for doing a matt face. I used it on the re-release Wild One I build last year too, so all 3 share the same pot of paint!
  15. Electronics and steering in, configured and working, and I've just fitted the front bumper. How was the bumper on yours? I had a battle with that little 6mm screw - it wasn't really long enough to bite in the aluminium hex part in the gearbox... Maybe it cross-threaded slightly and took out a tiny fraction of a turn, but hardly... And then it just wouldn't bite. In the end I had to spin the aluminium part round 180 degrees to get another clean thread, and swapped to a different 6mm screw. This time it seemed to bite OK, but still doesn't seem to go in very far although it did at least tighten. The one good thing is that I found a spare 3x6mm screw in my original vintage Fox's box (I think I'd had to buy a spare screw bag A back in about 1988 when I bent a long screw) and it was about 0.2mm longer, so figured it might bite better. I like that there's a shared vintage part between them! (Along with the old humbrol enamel matt flesh paint for the driver's face which has somehow survived 30 years!)