Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

36 Excellent

About AJB123

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Me too. Blue and black in my case - used for my original Fox, unused since probably 1987, and worked just fine on my rere Wild One's driver a couple of years ago.
  2. I've only ever had a standard silver can in mine. Almost all of its use was back in the day when it got through the 2 original aluminium pinions (the first one to the point it totally stripped its teeth), one steel pinion and one motor (brushes completely disintegrated), but the rest of the gearbox is totally original with very little obvious wear, so in my experience the gearbox is strong. The hex drives were rubbish - it got through 2 sets of those, the second being what put it into retirement back in the day. It's now been revived on NovaFox driveshafts (they're a straight swap as long as you reuse the fiddly original little metal c-clips instead of using NovaFox E clips, as the NovaFox gearbox case has been modified to make space for the E clips). Plastics will get more brittle with age though, so there's always a risk of parts breaking with hard use now.
  3. Looks great! I can't really claim mine has never run... I've had it since about 1987 I think!
  4. The gearbox casing is different as the Novafox uses E clips to hold in the drive cup, whilst the Fox uses super-fiddly C clips. It's all interchangeable as long as you use the correct clips for your gearbox casing. My Fox has Novafox driveshafts now, but I reused the C clips to work with my original gearbox. The front suspension balljoint balls are different as the Novafox doesn't have the aluminium brace around its uprights. The servosaver attaches to the servo differently, and goes through a foam seal on the Novafox vs a rubber seal on the Fox. Other than that the Novafox has a front antiroll bar as standard, which is totally different to the original Fox's optional upgrade one, but all other parts are interchangeable as far as I know. Pretty much the same car as Mrowka said.
  5. If you need me to measure things then I can; I've got the original Fox ones (replaced back in the day and worn out again!), the original, original early Fox ones (taken off in the 80s when they wore out), and Novafox ones on the car now (I bought the relevant Novafox parts bag). I don't want to take the wheels off more often than I have to as the original hubs are past their best, but I can measure any of the above.
  6. Thinking about it, they can't be thinner on the Novafox. They still use an 1150 bearing (so nominal 5mm diameter there), and it doesn't step down in size to where the hub goes. I'm mostly just being lazy not bothering to take the wheels off and measure mine, but I reckon it must be nominal 5mm on both original and rere. I think I would have noticed if there was loads of play in the hubs when I rebuilt mine anyway (new Novafox driveshafts, original 80s hubs).
  7. Oh - that's interesting. I put Novafox driveshafts in my vintage Fox, and reused the original plastic hubs. I didn't notice a size problem.
  8. Assuming I'm right about it being self-tapping despite not being a self tapper, can you tell which bit it used to thread into - the wide gearbox casing or the plate outside it? I can't remember doing that bit of mine. You might be able to put a sliver of plastic into the hole, perhaps even gluing it in place, but that's not always essential, and hope that that give enough for the screw to bite. If it pushes the screw sideways, then half of the screw can start to grip on the half of the hole away from the sliver, so sometimes that works even if it's not glued. It's not got any force trying to pull that screw out, but it will get quite a bit of vibration... So I'm not sure if that'd work or not.
  9. It's a gold-ish colour, not black, but otherwise the same. It matches the other one with a nut. Rere manual is here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/hot_shot.pdf I guess the interesting test is how long the screw is. If you're using one of the exact 30mm length the manual wants, with that A4 spacer, does the end of the screw actually come through the plastic at all to be able to get a nut on? If it's pretty much flush with the plastic like I think mine is then I suspect it's meant to self tap into something on its way through. I can check mine again this evening if it helps - I just had a quick glance last night. ps Tamiya do sometimes use fine threaded screws self-tapped into plastic.
  10. I’ve had a quick look at my rere, and I think that screw is just tapping/threading into the plastic, and doesn’t have anything on the other end. If you use that plastic spacer then the tip of the screw ends up pretty much flush with the plastic where you’ve drawn the blue circle, with no thread sticking through to put a nut on anyway.
  11. Good choices! Although I really can't claim that my original Fox has never been run... I've had it since maybe about 1987 ps apologies for the photo quality - just a quick snap on my phone to mimic yours!
  12. Cutting the Tamiya connectors off the ESC is the best way to do it to reduce overall resistance, and as others have said the connectors on the SpeedPassion motor do unplug. But I didn't want to cut the Tamiya cables, though, so bought a set of Tamiya bullets and made up a little extension loom. I've got the 17.5T and, using the larger of the 2 supported pinion sizes, it's perfect in my rere Wild One. The Wild One does need long motor cables, though, so the extension isn't as crazy as it sounds.
  13. The original HotShot had a sealed chassis, but the rere has a removable access plate on the top, I think taken from the HotShot2 (or perhaps the original SuperShot too - I can't remember which they introduced it for). I guess they modified their original moulds back in the day, so didn't want to re-modify them back, especially as the access hatch is really useful!
  14. Nothing useful to add really, but I had a Fox back in the day, which came out of the loft maybe 2 1/2 years ago when I realised that the NovaFox existed and so I could get spare parts easily/cheaply. So that's working again now. And then I bought a ReRe HotShot a year and half ago, because I remember seeing one for the first time back in the day and being amazed that an RC car was 4WD! And now I love the complete craziness of the suspension design too. Ummm... And I may have build a ReRe Wild One in between, because I loved the look of the one a friend at school had, and I still love the design today... If I didn't have my original Fox, I don't know if I'd have bought a NovaFox... I remember my old one so well anyway that I think it wouldn't have been MY Fox, especially as the design is a bit different (antiroll bar etc.). But maybe it would have brought back great memories - it was certainly great fun rebuilding mine and took me right back to being 12 or 13 years old. So I guess that brings me back to my initial "nothing useful to say"... Whichever you get you'll love building it, and it'll take you back in a good way. The HotShot has a bit more to build with the 4WD. I would think spares would be fine for both for a while, but certainly the HotShot as it shares a lot of bits with the other early 4WDs.
  15. You can easily shave a little bit off the wheel arch with a sharp knife if needed, to give yourself the extra bit of clearance needed. Yes, it rolls over easily! Both due to high centre of gravity and soft suspension. Fun to drive though. The one thing that bugs me driving mine (other than rolling it and scratching the paint and stickers!) is that it tends to bottom out coming out of a wheelie and smash the bottom of the front bumper into the ground with a horrible bang. Basically, if it's up on a wheelie you need to train yourself not to just lift off the throttle. If you do, then it drops down too fast and hits the ground. If you keep accelerating a bit and lift off gently then it's fine. I suspect that oil shocks might help with that (as the resistance will be higher when they're compressing fast), but I haven't quite been able to justify getting them for mine. I can't remember what the manual says about body height - I think I might have put mine a tiny bit lower than stock, but not much if at all. I don't think it'd make a huge difference to the centre of gravity as the main issue is that the heavy battery (assuming NimH) is deliberately high so that it can wheelie. By the way, are you sure you trimmed the battery door posts back enough? If not, then they push on the body shell, and that pulls the body backwards, potentially making wheel rubbing more of an issue. Mine barely touched, but I did shave the wheel arch back a tiny bit to make sure it couldn't touch at all.
  • Create New...