Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

21 Excellent

About AJB123

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Do you mean it goes right even if you're going in a completely straight line and then brake hard? I guess you've ruled out any issues with the electronics? (eg unplug steering servo and make sure it's not doing something strange on braking). Otherwise Grotty Otty's idea to check chassis and suspension travel makes some sense, but with a fairly open diff I'd have thought that even if one wheel lifted clear of the ground, it'd be braking fairly evenly on both sides... If the diff is relatively stiff then the left wheel lifting more, and so gripping less, as the rear suspension lifts could cause it to brake on the right rear and veer right. My only other thought is to check that the wheels are both turning completely freely as the suspension lifts. Could a driveshaft be catching or something? Or could anything (a wire or anything) be moving forwards under braking and catching or rubbing on a wheel or driveshaft?
  2. If I did get oil filled dampers for it, which Tamiya CVA sets (if any) fit the WR02C? (Just realised I've put this thread in the re-release forum, but it maybe ought to be general really... Sorry!)
  3. To answer my own question, I don't think it'll work. I've added about 1mm of extra rubber tubing, which means that pushing the front down by hand now causes the shocks to stop the travel on their bump stops with the bumper 1 or 2mm off the ground rather than touching it (as it did with the specified length). But... it still bangs into the ground coming down from a wheelie - tyre compression and suspension flex lets it take up that extra clearance. The screws mounting the shocks to the lower arms were very slightly bent when I took them out (not really noticeable, except that the metal collar was catching on them rather than sliding straight off). It's not had any jumps or driven over any large bumps, so I think that must be from dropping down from wheelies even with the standard bump-stop length. So, if I added enough extra spacing to stop the bumper from hitting the ground at all, then I think it'd just end up bending or breaking something from the impacts - I think I'm just going to have to learn not to lift off when the front's up in the air (and therefore not get it into the air whilst heading towards any solid objects!!) I'll leave the extra mm of tubing in, though, as I don't think it'll put much more stress through the suspension, it might slightly lessen the ground impacts, but mostly because it annoyed me that the bumper hit the ground when just pushing it down by hand - it's much more satisfying when it stops just clear of the ground.
  4. Thanks for the reply! Yes I am - the Honda City Turbo didn't exactly feel like it was designed for the ultimate in handling anyway! But yes oil filled shocks would make a big difference as their resistance goes up with speed of compression rather than being fixed. It's just that I'm not really looking to spend any money on it right now, and it's the one kit I felt I could get away with leaving the friction shocks on (the greased rubber tube sort, rather than the even-more-horrible all plastic ones they use now). There's actually quite a lot of travel, so limiting the stroke to stop a bit earlier wouldn't necessarily mean they then did nothing at all, as long as it kind of stopped when it hit the bump stops. The unknown in my mind is whether I'd actually have to limit it way too much in order to keep it from bottoming out once tyres compress, suspension arms flex, etc.. And yes, harder springs would help, but I love the fact that this is one of the very few kits Tamiya make with nice soft springs from the factory - most are just way too stiff in normal driving in my experience. I hate seeing the car bounce around on a fairly smooth surface, and I like seeing the suspension working. So I'd rather put up with having to drop down from wheelies carefully than have to make it super-stiff when the wheels are on the ground.
  5. My recently-built Honda City Turbo is great, but if it's wheelying and then you lift off the throttle, then as it drops down from the wheelie the front suspension compresses to the point that the front bumper/splitter crashes into the ground with a horrible noise. (This impact also revealed that my gluing of the bonnet vents wasn't up to scratch the other day...!!) I was wondering whether there's any point in adding a bit more rubber tubing to the front suspension bump stops to try to get it to stop compressing before it hits the ground? Or is that a lost cause, and tyre squish etc will mean it bottoms out until the front hits the ground anyway? I get why most chassis bottom out on the ground rather than the suspension, to avoid over-stressing the suspension on landings from jumps, but this isn't a solid bit of chassis taking the impact. If it's a good idea, has anyone tried it, and how much extra length did they add? I don't really want to trial-and-error it given it'll involve taking the ball end off the shock shaft each time! Thanks!
  6. I agree the space plate fitment needs to be correct, but I'm talking about how far the pinion is pushed onto the motor spindle, and not how tightly the pinion is engaging with the spur gear. That worn plastic gear is only worn across about 1/3 or its width. Incorrect spacer plate fitment could easily cause it to ruin the gear and slip, but it would still wear it across most of its width if the pinion is correctly adjusted onto the motor spindle.
  7. Yep - that'll be the culprit! It looks like the pinion hasn't been engaging across all of its width though. The manual will have instructions on how far onto the motor spindle the pinion should go (some give a measurement, some have a plastic tool to set the spacing, and some say to put the cardboard from a screw bag between the motor and the pinion). Whatever method it uses, I think that could be adjusted to give more overlap of the gears. If you're not running a stock tamiya pinion (and you're often best not to, as they're aluminium and wear down really fast - steel ones last longer), then bear in mind that the pinion teeth might be closer to or further away from the motor with a given gap between the round bit of the pinion and the face of the motor. So I'd get a new one of those gears, and check how far the pinion is on its spindle really carefully when rebuilding it with the new gear.
  8. Exactly! And why did they do Unimogs on the IFS chassis? I think the new Suzuki Jimny would be a great choice. I hope they do one of those on the CC02. Sooner or later they're bound to release some cars that are meant to have a solid front axle on the CC02 (even if, for some crazy reason, they take no account of realism and it's just coincidence if they get it right!). At that point, assuming it's a good chassis, I'm interested! Until now IFS on the CC01 with bodies that are meant to have live front axles has kept my wallet safe on the CC front!
  9. That was exactly my first thought on seeing the picture too! Why indeed?!
  10. If you can't turn the pinion by hand at all then it's worth quickly checking that a stray screw hasn't been pulled into one of the motor ventilation holes by the motor's magnets, and is now jamming it up. For ESC configuration it needs to be brushed not brushless (you can tell which it's set to from the colour of the LED when you switch it on I think?). And it needs to be the right 2 of the 3 wires that you've plugged in - can be confusing as the car's manual normally talks about the wire colours assuming a brushed-only ESC which only has 2 wires, but the TBLE-02S can do brushed or brushless, but the wire colours are the standard brushless colours. When connecting up the motor, go with the wire colouring for brushed mode in the TBLE-02S instruction sheet, and not the wire colouring in the car's build manual.
  11. Agreed. The pre-assembled gearbox would have been a deal-breaker with my WR02C Honda City Turbo, but happily it also comes with bushings so that gave me an excuse to rebuild the gearbox! I genuinely wouldn't have bought it if it had been pre-assembled with bearings! Building the gearbox is one of the best bits!!
  12. I’m still very confused that the TH Trim REV switch doesn’t reverse the direction. Does it literally make no difference which way it’s set, even with only small (ie very slow) throttle positions? Does the ST switch reverse the direction of the steering?
  13. That's weird. As Juggular says, it might need the throttle calibration resetting after swapping it in order to work perfectly, or maybe even to work at all at the ends of the stick's travel, but I'm really surprised that switching TH Trim between REV and NOR doesn't swap the direction of travel. That's the entire point of that switch.
  14. If you're mostly wanting to drive it then perhaps there's something to be said for a modern chassis instead. But if it's the nostalgia, fun of the build, and reliving old memories then I'd say definitely get the Manta Ray! The same logic is why, after I fixed up my old Fox, I ended up with a re-release Wild One, and then a re-release Hotshot! I've got the SR2S - I've never used a wheel and was happy with sticks. I did buy a second one when I got the Hotshot so that I could run 2 at once if I ever wanted, but that Absima is actually made by FlySky and you can get cheap receivers that work with it perfectly. For my third build (a Honda City Turbo - 80s body, more recent chassis) I just bought an extra receiver to bind to one of the SR2Ss. Yes the SR2S uses 8 AA batteries unlike some which are 4, but mine are on rechargeable NimH, so that's not a big expense. This receiver works I believe: eBay FlySky receiver
  • Create New...