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AJB123

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  1. If you need me to measure things then I can; I've got the original Fox ones (replaced back in the day and worn out again!), the original, original early Fox ones (taken off in the 80s when they wore out), and Novafox ones on the car now (I bought the relevant Novafox parts bag). I don't want to take the wheels off more often than I have to as the original hubs are past their best, but I can measure any of the above.
  2. Thinking about it, they can't be thinner on the Novafox. They still use an 1150 bearing (so nominal 5mm diameter there), and it doesn't step down in size to where the hub goes. I'm mostly just being lazy not bothering to take the wheels off and measure mine, but I reckon it must be nominal 5mm on both original and rere. I think I would have noticed if there was loads of play in the hubs when I rebuilt mine anyway (new Novafox driveshafts, original 80s hubs).
  3. Oh - that's interesting. I put Novafox driveshafts in my vintage Fox, and reused the original plastic hubs. I didn't notice a size problem.
  4. Assuming I'm right about it being self-tapping despite not being a self tapper, can you tell which bit it used to thread into - the wide gearbox casing or the plate outside it? I can't remember doing that bit of mine. You might be able to put a sliver of plastic into the hole, perhaps even gluing it in place, but that's not always essential, and hope that that give enough for the screw to bite. If it pushes the screw sideways, then half of the screw can start to grip on the half of the hole away from the sliver, so sometimes that works even if it's not glued. It's not got any force trying to pull that screw out, but it will get quite a bit of vibration... So I'm not sure if that'd work or not.
  5. It's a gold-ish colour, not black, but otherwise the same. It matches the other one with a nut. Rere manual is here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/hot_shot.pdf I guess the interesting test is how long the screw is. If you're using one of the exact 30mm length the manual wants, with that A4 spacer, does the end of the screw actually come through the plastic at all to be able to get a nut on? If it's pretty much flush with the plastic like I think mine is then I suspect it's meant to self tap into something on its way through. I can check mine again this evening if it helps - I just had a quick glance last night. ps Tamiya do sometimes use fine threaded screws self-tapped into plastic.
  6. I’ve had a quick look at my rere, and I think that screw is just tapping/threading into the plastic, and doesn’t have anything on the other end. If you use that plastic spacer then the tip of the screw ends up pretty much flush with the plastic where you’ve drawn the blue circle, with no thread sticking through to put a nut on anyway.
  7. Good choices! Although I really can't claim that my original Fox has never been run... I've had it since maybe about 1987 ps apologies for the photo quality - just a quick snap on my phone to mimic yours!
  8. Cutting the Tamiya connectors off the ESC is the best way to do it to reduce overall resistance, and as others have said the connectors on the SpeedPassion motor do unplug. But I didn't want to cut the Tamiya cables, though, so bought a set of Tamiya bullets and made up a little extension loom. I've got the 17.5T and, using the larger of the 2 supported pinion sizes, it's perfect in my rere Wild One. The Wild One does need long motor cables, though, so the extension isn't as crazy as it sounds.
  9. The original HotShot had a sealed chassis, but the rere has a removable access plate on the top, I think taken from the HotShot2 (or perhaps the original SuperShot too - I can't remember which they introduced it for). I guess they modified their original moulds back in the day, so didn't want to re-modify them back, especially as the access hatch is really useful!
  10. Nothing useful to add really, but I had a Fox back in the day, which came out of the loft maybe 2 1/2 years ago when I realised that the NovaFox existed and so I could get spare parts easily/cheaply. So that's working again now. And then I bought a ReRe HotShot a year and half ago, because I remember seeing one for the first time back in the day and being amazed that an RC car was 4WD! And now I love the complete craziness of the suspension design too. Ummm... And I may have build a ReRe Wild One in between, because I loved the look of the one a friend at school had, and I still love the design today... If I didn't have my original Fox, I don't know if I'd have bought a NovaFox... I remember my old one so well anyway that I think it wouldn't have been MY Fox, especially as the design is a bit different (antiroll bar etc.). But maybe it would have brought back great memories - it was certainly great fun rebuilding mine and took me right back to being 12 or 13 years old. So I guess that brings me back to my initial "nothing useful to say"... Whichever you get you'll love building it, and it'll take you back in a good way. The HotShot has a bit more to build with the 4WD. I would think spares would be fine for both for a while, but certainly the HotShot as it shares a lot of bits with the other early 4WDs.
  11. You can easily shave a little bit off the wheel arch with a sharp knife if needed, to give yourself the extra bit of clearance needed. Yes, it rolls over easily! Both due to high centre of gravity and soft suspension. Fun to drive though. The one thing that bugs me driving mine (other than rolling it and scratching the paint and stickers!) is that it tends to bottom out coming out of a wheelie and smash the bottom of the front bumper into the ground with a horrible bang. Basically, if it's up on a wheelie you need to train yourself not to just lift off the throttle. If you do, then it drops down too fast and hits the ground. If you keep accelerating a bit and lift off gently then it's fine. I suspect that oil shocks might help with that (as the resistance will be higher when they're compressing fast), but I haven't quite been able to justify getting them for mine. I can't remember what the manual says about body height - I think I might have put mine a tiny bit lower than stock, but not much if at all. I don't think it'd make a huge difference to the centre of gravity as the main issue is that the heavy battery (assuming NimH) is deliberately high so that it can wheelie. By the way, are you sure you trimmed the battery door posts back enough? If not, then they push on the body shell, and that pulls the body backwards, potentially making wheel rubbing more of an issue. Mine barely touched, but I did shave the wheel arch back a tiny bit to make sure it couldn't touch at all.
  12. Do you mean it goes right even if you're going in a completely straight line and then brake hard? I guess you've ruled out any issues with the electronics? (eg unplug steering servo and make sure it's not doing something strange on braking). Otherwise Grotty Otty's idea to check chassis and suspension travel makes some sense, but with a fairly open diff I'd have thought that even if one wheel lifted clear of the ground, it'd be braking fairly evenly on both sides... If the diff is relatively stiff then the left wheel lifting more, and so gripping less, as the rear suspension lifts could cause it to brake on the right rear and veer right. My only other thought is to check that the wheels are both turning completely freely as the suspension lifts. Could a driveshaft be catching or something? Or could anything (a wire or anything) be moving forwards under braking and catching or rubbing on a wheel or driveshaft?
  13. If I did get oil filled dampers for it, which Tamiya CVA sets (if any) fit the WR02C? (Just realised I've put this thread in the re-release forum, but it maybe ought to be general really... Sorry!)
  14. To answer my own question, I don't think it'll work. I've added about 1mm of extra rubber tubing, which means that pushing the front down by hand now causes the shocks to stop the travel on their bump stops with the bumper 1 or 2mm off the ground rather than touching it (as it did with the specified length). But... it still bangs into the ground coming down from a wheelie - tyre compression and suspension flex lets it take up that extra clearance. The screws mounting the shocks to the lower arms were very slightly bent when I took them out (not really noticeable, except that the metal collar was catching on them rather than sliding straight off). It's not had any jumps or driven over any large bumps, so I think that must be from dropping down from wheelies even with the standard bump-stop length. So, if I added enough extra spacing to stop the bumper from hitting the ground at all, then I think it'd just end up bending or breaking something from the impacts - I think I'm just going to have to learn not to lift off when the front's up in the air (and therefore not get it into the air whilst heading towards any solid objects!!) I'll leave the extra mm of tubing in, though, as I don't think it'll put much more stress through the suspension, it might slightly lessen the ground impacts, but mostly because it annoyed me that the bumper hit the ground when just pushing it down by hand - it's much more satisfying when it stops just clear of the ground.
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