krisby

I started building my land freeder last Christmas, a very slow project. Anyway, I've been on the rear diff now for a few months as I am trying to work out what is going on. I noticed that despite having screwed together the upper and lower casing for the diff, they were falling apart. It appeared as though the screws were not making it all the way through into the second case. So rather than trying to figure out where I had used the wrong screws I ordered another packet of the 3x10mm screws as per the build instructions. I finally got round to it yesterday, only to find the new screws are exactly the same as the old ones and yep, still don't make it all the way through. My only thoughts are to get some 3x12mm and hope that extra 2mm gives it enough purchase to bind together. However, what I can't understand is how the specified screws simply do not work, has anyone else encountered this issue, particularly on a CC01? Cheers Kris

yes same, my order mid last year was great, with decent communication, but I had an order supposedly shipped on 1st December but not heard anything since, tracking or follows up or anything. I have messaged him so I will hope for a reply soon. I don't mind waiting, but when no evidence it has taken 6 weeks to get from being to shipped, to no notice it has been shipped.

Applied some new MCI Decals on the much battered King Blackfoot and replaced the front shocks with oil filled chinese things. Attempted to fix the diff issue on my Dark Impact, but I have no drive in reverse, so back to the drawing board tomorrow hopefully. Also fitted front drive shafts to the Blazing Star I acquired a few weeks ago, now she's a perfectly working stock semi-classic. Hopefully once and for all resolved the issue of my rere monster beetle popping out the right hand side dogbone. I've had a few suggestions on here, did look at restricting the shock travel, but instead opted to fit a shim between on the axle, it appears to be solid and in place, but haven't tested with a battery run yet, was in my mojo fixing stuff. Also replaced the left side (this time) front upright on the brat. Am refurbing an HBX Rival (Baja King), replaced front dog bones, also removed tyres from front wheels ready for some new rubber some time soon, need some new rear shocks as one is completely seized, its been in storage at some guys house for donkey's years, hence I was lucky to get it for only $35NZ a month ago. Rear Wheels are chromed (unlike the Baja King), but the chrome is peeling so I have some replacements coming. The front uprights are the ones on the parts tree for a Baja King, instead of the actual ones sold separately for this model, so have a set coming from Tony EbayUK as well. Thoroughly good day in the sunshine with a box of beer and a few Gins later on. Hopefully more of those to come over the next few weeks.

I bought this second hand a year ago and finally got around to trying to fix the issues. One of the majors was no drive from the rear gear box. when I pulled it apart the diff gear had completely failed, so a new gear and rebuild later, yay! I have drive again. On the downside, when I try and reverse I just hear what sounds like the motor freewheeling, no contact is being made on anything. Which I don't understand, if the motor pinion is driving the gear forward, why when it spins in reverse would it be any different? I've never had a ball diff before so might be missing something. Any help appreciated.

I wouldn't mind the rise in prices of re-res if the product worked out of the box. Both mine and my partners MBs had problems with rear universal joints popping out of the cups. I had to buy OG frog dog bones, which have fixed her problem, but mine still persists. So I have a $300 MB that I spent additional money on to resolve that I still can't drive at the moment. I have a rere Brat, and one of the rear body mounts keeps coming lo0se, the crushed washer friction suspension thing keeps moving on one side no matter how tight it is, the left wheel came off one day when driving it, so I had to buy the OG front axles, I only replaced the left thinking it was a one off, last weekend, 1/2 lap on the track and the right hand wheel comes off, without the spare with me, reducing me, annoyingly to only 2 cars of 4 that I took to the track. My rere Buggy Champ engine cover does not seem to be able to fit modern motors, there is only just enough space for and old 2 pin silver can, anything with external gubbins won't fit. The steering servo can not be glued down. It just won't take, one jump and it comes loose. Manual makes no mention of servo mounting blocks being needed, but oddly there are holes in the chassis. Parts bag for the buggy makes no mention of the parts, so I've had to try and find another model that has those parts, then finding it in stock. The battery tray is still not made for a full size Nimh either. I'm all for keeping faithful to the original, but if I can't use my RC car for its intended purpose, then that is a failure of Tamiya and they can not justify putting their prices up. In theory, couldn't we have a class action lawsuit against them for selling cars not fit for purpose? Not that we would, just saying for arguments sake. Its put me off buying any more re-res as a 100% fail rate does not instill me with confidence. I'm even looking at moving to some Kyosho models instead.

yeah, I tried the o ring spacers, made no difference, the odd thing is it is exactly the same as my partners. It is just that my right hand swing arm seems to have a lot of movement, even though every thing is tightened and in place properly. I might look at fitting a rod or something to stop that outward flex. or a fatter spacer on the cup.

My partner and I both got MBs last year, initially mine was ok and hers suffered, almost immediately, from the CVs popping out under load. The suggestion here was to get the OG ones, which I did, and that worked a treat. Mine started doing it after a while too, I checked first that the rear suspension etc was screwing tight, it was, and still is, but I fitted the new dog bones, but it is still popping under extreme load, i.e. full throttle or if lateral movement or bumps. I've checked all the geometry, and despite being tight, there is still some slack in the arms, really, the dog bones need to probably be 2mm longer and they would be snug as a bug in a rug. Anyway else still having problems with their MB? I must say, rere quality, in my experience has been shocking. My brat also suffers a few problems, although not the drive shaft problems. Puts me off buying other reres if I can never run them out of the box, yet my 33 year old Boomerang still gets bashed on the track with no issues.

what do people use for servo stays these days? apart from an upgrade to a WF-03 servo stay, I can't find any available apart from aluminium upgrades. I'm just after the old plastic servo stays (blocks) that used to come with servos. Several of my models need them, including, and this is what I am most annoyed about, my Buggy Champ. The manual says to use a double sided sticky pad, but that lasted all of 5 minutes. I've tried regluing and that lasted 20 seconds. There are holes in the chassis of the buggy champ, but tehy give you nothing to attach it down, so I've spent hours trying to find the old servo stay things, but to no avail. So when the ones in my overlander fail, seems it will be out of action. Grrrr.....just realized its a parts tree item, so will need to order spare parts I don't need to get two little blocks of plastic. So that begs the question, to other Buggy Champ users, how did you find the manuals solution of just using double sided tape? You'd think Tamiya could have taken the opportunity on a rere to make the battery tray wider for modern batteries and a permanent solution for steering. Puts me off buying a rere sand scorcher.

she got a proper run down on a home made crawler course at a friends bach (holiday home to you foreigners), with log steps, a steep, maybe gradient, I would say more than 45deg, some step drops, stick traversing, and more to come. On the whole. I was pleased, both mine and my partners handled it well, mine more so due to increased ride height with the Austar 3021s, plus I've also done chino mod to rear springs as well as losing springs, still yet to do it on front. But both tackled the incline with relative ease, not saying it was easy, but with skilled controlled driving it gripped well. considering the surface was silt/sand/weed it had plenty to grip through, once we've killed the weeds that will change. We both easily did 20 laps each, one tumble wumble each, nothing broken. The only issue is neither of us have 2 gear, just needs adjusting. My gear box sounds nicely greased, her's does not, but I will address that in the coming weeks, as well as modding the steering servo. The steering was our biggest problem, the slop and wobble and lack of response was the real only major problem, even the open diffs, whilst at times problematic, I was surprised at how capable it was, but when I do strip the gearboxes I will be locking the diffs. Overall happy, no failures, good longevity on the battery (hers is a 4200 2S mine is a 2200 3s). Muchos fun, and good to look forward to for next time. FYI, also took a CC01 Land Cruiser 40, knew it would not be capable due to ride height, but on the first lap was surprising capable when helped over steps and logs bigger than the wheels, it even did the steep slope as well, which did surprise me, but on the second lap, the rear diff when crunch and suddenly I had a FWD crawler, rendering it completely incapable of any crawling activities. + 1 to the knock off.

those flat irons look like they don't have a higher profile than the stock tyres, yet the specs say the flat irons are 140mm, and I believe stock bruiser tires are 127mm? I have Austar 3021 fitted and the profile is way too high for my liking, would prefer these, but prolines website and your photo contradict each other in height, atleast in eyeballing anyway.

should come with a receiver, I have the Flysky GT3B with 10 model memory, so far so good and easy to setup, and receivers are cheap too. My partner uses a GT2E for her 3 cars without issue, and I also have a GT2E as well, for a few of my not so regular runners. I get my Flysky FS-GR3E receiver from RCMart or Banggood as they are super cheap and so far, all work flawlessly. In regards to the model memory though, I think that is only for specific settings for rates, as it is the RX that remembers the TX it is connected to, so in theory, you could have 50 cars, as long as you run one at a time, should all be able to run off the same TX.

Thanks for Matteos vid, I'll go watch it. This is the image that irked me about the size differences, other models haven't really bothered me in terms of scale, including knowing full well a Rough Rider is not scale, but just seeing the CC01 vs even a Blackfoot, Hornet, Brat it is not right, but vs the Scotty Hilux, it was in my face. Having watched Matteos vid it makes sense and looking at the models in a different way. I'm at work now so not sure on the windscreen differences for example, but the doors do look a similar size, so the wheels and length of the hilux just accentuate the size difference, even though in reality its not that great. Just like comparing a bottom of the range Ford Ranger with on road tires vs an XLT with all the bits and bobs.

I'm not sure the CC01 scale size is accurate. I've not completed my Land Freeder yet so can't be sure, but I have a CC01 Land Cruiser that is "1/10" scale supposedly. Yet it is dwarfed by a 1/10 scale bruiser clone, and a hornet with a beetle body mounted is bigger too, The scale just seems wrong, I would say it was more a 1/12 scale, especially comparing to the Hilux, I mean the land cruiser 40 was not a huge vehicle, but it wasn't tiny either. Anyone else wonder about the scale sizes of their RC?

servo for steering? its only a single bearing type and plastic gears, might want something a bit beefier. As for RX, its up to you, nothing wrong with that TX, just get another RX for it, and it can run both your lunchy and brat. I personally use a flysky TX on about 6 different RX.

Alexei, that mess is what I am wanting to avoid. I want simple and cheap, I;'ve read the reviews of other systems but I don't want flashing indicators, I just want headlights and rear lights for effect. So I was merely wondering why simple solutions of running of a few AA batteries isn't employed instead. Weight? Its a crawler, I don't care about the weight a few AAs will add. Secondly, what I am wondering about, or wanting to avoid, as per my first post, is having to connect the chassis to the body, and finally, battery drain, if I go on a long trail with my Hilux, Land Freeder or Land Cruiser I don't want lights reducing the life of the battery. So I take it no one has run a simple LED set up off AA batteries?