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krisby

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  1. what do people use for servo stays these days? apart from an upgrade to a WF-03 servo stay, I can't find any available apart from aluminium upgrades. I'm just after the old plastic servo stays (blocks) that used to come with servos. Several of my models need them, including, and this is what I am most annoyed about, my Buggy Champ. The manual says to use a double sided sticky pad, but that lasted all of 5 minutes. I've tried regluing and that lasted 20 seconds. There are holes in the chassis of the buggy champ, but tehy give you nothing to attach it down, so I've spent hours trying to find the old servo stay things, but to no avail. So when the ones in my overlander fail, seems it will be out of action. Grrrr.....just realized its a parts tree item, so will need to order spare parts I don't need to get two little blocks of plastic. So that begs the question, to other Buggy Champ users, how did you find the manuals solution of just using double sided tape? You'd think Tamiya could have taken the opportunity on a rere to make the battery tray wider for modern batteries and a permanent solution for steering. Puts me off buying a rere sand scorcher.
  2. she got a proper run down on a home made crawler course at a friends bach (holiday home to you foreigners), with log steps, a steep, maybe gradient, I would say more than 45deg, some step drops, stick traversing, and more to come. On the whole. I was pleased, both mine and my partners handled it well, mine more so due to increased ride height with the Austar 3021s, plus I've also done chino mod to rear springs as well as losing springs, still yet to do it on front. But both tackled the incline with relative ease, not saying it was easy, but with skilled controlled driving it gripped well. considering the surface was silt/sand/weed it had plenty to grip through, once we've killed the weeds that will change. We both easily did 20 laps each, one tumble wumble each, nothing broken. The only issue is neither of us have 2 gear, just needs adjusting. My gear box sounds nicely greased, her's does not, but I will address that in the coming weeks, as well as modding the steering servo. The steering was our biggest problem, the slop and wobble and lack of response was the real only major problem, even the open diffs, whilst at times problematic, I was surprised at how capable it was, but when I do strip the gearboxes I will be locking the diffs. Overall happy, no failures, good longevity on the battery (hers is a 4200 2S mine is a 2200 3s). Muchos fun, and good to look forward to for next time. FYI, also took a CC01 Land Cruiser 40, knew it would not be capable due to ride height, but on the first lap was surprising capable when helped over steps and logs bigger than the wheels, it even did the steep slope as well, which did surprise me, but on the second lap, the rear diff when crunch and suddenly I had a FWD crawler, rendering it completely incapable of any crawling activities. + 1 to the knock off.
  3. those flat irons look like they don't have a higher profile than the stock tyres, yet the specs say the flat irons are 140mm, and I believe stock bruiser tires are 127mm? I have Austar 3021 fitted and the profile is way too high for my liking, would prefer these, but prolines website and your photo contradict each other in height, atleast in eyeballing anyway.
  4. should come with a receiver, I have the Flysky GT3B with 10 model memory, so far so good and easy to setup, and receivers are cheap too. My partner uses a GT2E for her 3 cars without issue, and I also have a GT2E as well, for a few of my not so regular runners. I get my Flysky FS-GR3E receiver from RCMart or Banggood as they are super cheap and so far, all work flawlessly. In regards to the model memory though, I think that is only for specific settings for rates, as it is the RX that remembers the TX it is connected to, so in theory, you could have 50 cars, as long as you run one at a time, should all be able to run off the same TX.
  5. Thanks for Matteos vid, I'll go watch it. This is the image that irked me about the size differences, other models haven't really bothered me in terms of scale, including knowing full well a Rough Rider is not scale, but just seeing the CC01 vs even a Blackfoot, Hornet, Brat it is not right, but vs the Scotty Hilux, it was in my face. Having watched Matteos vid it makes sense and looking at the models in a different way. I'm at work now so not sure on the windscreen differences for example, but the doors do look a similar size, so the wheels and length of the hilux just accentuate the size difference, even though in reality its not that great. Just like comparing a bottom of the range Ford Ranger with on road tires vs an XLT with all the bits and bobs.
  6. I'm not sure the CC01 scale size is accurate. I've not completed my Land Freeder yet so can't be sure, but I have a CC01 Land Cruiser that is "1/10" scale supposedly. Yet it is dwarfed by a 1/10 scale bruiser clone, and a hornet with a beetle body mounted is bigger too, The scale just seems wrong, I would say it was more a 1/12 scale, especially comparing to the Hilux, I mean the land cruiser 40 was not a huge vehicle, but it wasn't tiny either. Anyone else wonder about the scale sizes of their RC?
  7. servo for steering? its only a single bearing type and plastic gears, might want something a bit beefier. As for RX, its up to you, nothing wrong with that TX, just get another RX for it, and it can run both your lunchy and brat. I personally use a flysky TX on about 6 different RX.
  8. Alexei, that mess is what I am wanting to avoid. I want simple and cheap, I;'ve read the reviews of other systems but I don't want flashing indicators, I just want headlights and rear lights for effect. So I was merely wondering why simple solutions of running of a few AA batteries isn't employed instead. Weight? Its a crawler, I don't care about the weight a few AAs will add. Secondly, what I am wondering about, or wanting to avoid, as per my first post, is having to connect the chassis to the body, and finally, battery drain, if I go on a long trail with my Hilux, Land Freeder or Land Cruiser I don't want lights reducing the life of the battery. So I take it no one has run a simple LED set up off AA batteries?
  9. mines a general work in progress, loosely modelled on the Barry Crump/Scotty Hilux adverts we had in NZ in the 80s. Doing the Chino and piston mod this weekend, although my rear shock mod seems to have worked too, so I might just do the front as well and see how it holds up instead of modding the damper piston at this stage. Will also replace the ESC this weekend as reverse is either on or off on the original, and I have some Austar 3021s coming today or tomorrow as well. Might also apply some period stickers at some point, but wanting it to remain uncluttered.
  10. For crawlers, as much as it is nice to have something like the indicators going when you turn, its not necessary as IRL you wouldn't activate the indicators to change direction on a path. So to keep it simple I am just wanting white LEDs for the headlights, then reds for the back, doesn't need to brake, just red. I see in general the LED kits have a controller connected to the ESC. Is that necessary though? Could one not just connect up a couple of AAs and leave them in the body shell, saves the hassle of having to connect the LEDs on the body to the ESC in the chassis. I've not seen anyone else keep it this simple, am I missing some important thing here? Or other people so hung up on detail that if they have LEDS, then the brakes must work too? Jsut wondering as I've now got 3 crawlers requiring LEDs, so I don't particularly want to go spending $150 on LED kits, when I can go to my electronics store and get some LEDs and a twin or tri AA holder for less than $10.
  11. cooling might be an idea, I don't remember the ESC in mine, might be stock Tamiya, or a 1060, but just a Giant Power Nimh battery with Tamiya connectors, which I think don't help at all, I have been looking to change to deans, but with so many runners that will be a bitch, so might be a summer project to do that I think. Same with Richards though, a stock tamiya, with a silver can, both running stock gearing and wheels, mine only got to the point of melding the plastic, cos I kept letting it recover from thermal protecting, then going again. Not sure what pinion, so I will drop it down and see if that helps. It was rapid on the 23t, awesome fast in fact, so perhaps I might move that motor to another car and just stick with stock.
  12. forgot to say a few weeks ago, this is what my partner got me: I also have a wild one, bruiser and tamiya double star cup! She is lovely.
  13. A mate got a baja before I did and was saying it chewed through batteries, like, under 5 minutes. I just figured he had old batteries. When I got my vintage Baja King earlier this year, and had the opportunity to tidy it up during lockdown, I put a new ESC in it, a Tamiya RZ 23T motor and a new battery and went out onto my street for a full speed shake down, sure enough, after about 4 minutes, suddenly slowed, but man was it quick. I had a run another time too and found it was cutting in an out, checked everything at home, all good, no obvious worries I could see. Took it for another run at the beach and it was cutting going into limp again, then coming out 20 seconds later, then limp, then it stopped and I noticed smoke coming from the battery connector, I managed to pull it apart, and just as well I did it whilst hot, cos if it had cooled down it might have been considerably harder pulling molten plastic apart. Richards never got to this point with his, but he was still running stock silver can, but for it to kill his battery so quick, and then to basically melt the connector and overheat the ESC, seems to be a design flaw. I've had other 4WDs that don't eat the batteries that quick, or cause that much heat, so I am now assuming in my stupidity, that the pinion is probably geared too high, which, I would understand for mine, but not Richards with his stock everything. Is this a common problem with the Baja King? I haven't been able to find anything else specific to this car. Obviously I'll reduce the pinion, but it still seems odd that Richard is having the same problem with a stock motor.
  14. shame postage to NZ is prohibitive, wanting a kyosho or two to add to my tamiya collection.
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