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About Hobgoblin

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    Brighton, UK

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  1. Hi @nel33 The Manta body fits still, the wheelbase is the same as the MR and the shock towers still clear. I don't have my MR body anymore so I can't show you how it looks on the chassis but a quick search shows this https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=36245&id=24 As the Manta Ray is designed around the tub chassis, you'll probably want to find yourself an undertray of some kind just to protect the chassis and fill out as it can look like its sitting high.
  2. He's going to be sulking for a few days as his belly had to be shaved for the test sample! He's young enough that it's going to be fairly positive either way, if its nothing he's got to live with a little lump or if its something more sinister or they couldn't be 100% sure he'll just have it removed and cost me 4-600! Then I'll be selling a Falcon and more besides. Joys of having pets. He'll get some extra treats tonight at least.
  3. Unfortunate sales post here. My happy squeaky child has decided to grow a lump and has just cost me £182 to have it checked out. Part and parcel of having small animals unfortunately. I need to make that dent so some of my toys are going to have to go! DF01/Manta Ray/Top Force Calling it a top force is a bit of a lie it's a OG 90's Manta Ray that had had a nick walker carbon chassis, re release top force shocks and some jazz rider alu. Rough spec: 8.5t speed passion brushless motor (can be replaced with 13.5t speed passion) 120a generic sensored controller (fan removed) 2 cell 4200mah 25c turnigy hardcase lipo Low profile turnigy metal gear servo Tamiya CVD's up front Front and rear ball differentials (have 1 spare gear dif I can swap in) Aftermarket aluminium steering knuckles Tamiya alu motor mount and hardened prop shaft Racecraft body shell from penguin (velcro mounts at the side) Pepper pot wheels from JC racing with pro line pin point tires. Has a turnigy RX which I'll remove unless you have a GT5 handset. Bit of a melting pot, definitely not one for the purists as there's a mix of original, re release and Aftermarket buy it was a really fun car and I'm really sad to see it go! Comes with some spares, not lots of great use but things like shock bodies etc. Old tub chassis and that. Has the body mount too so if you wanted to fit a normal body the option is there. Rear bumper too - I run without one. There's a decent amount invested in this but I'm realistic on price. I'd like £200 within the UK. Or any offer over £182 at a push lol! Happy to answer any questions just send us a message. Ps his name is Arnie (aka the Terminibbler) he likes sleeping and eating green peppers and servo leads
  4. Wow that's fantastic @R6cowboy it looks like it's come out incredibly clean! Can't wait to see your progress!
  5. Well they share the chassis tub and that's pretty much it. Same as the blitzer trucks and beetle, just the tub. It's a huge amount of unique and fairly poorly desiged parts that would have to get made so I'll be pleasantly surprised if it does get re released. I can't see it having mass appeal with its fragility. Hopefully it doesn't reflect in a hypothetical pricetag, more expensive for the collector.
  6. Love what you've done! My blitzer beetle was my first kit and I feel called to defend it It seems really unfortunate that it was so close price wise, for me in the UK I could have bought 2 blitzer kits for the price of a Kyosho scorpion or Superb Astute at the time and had enough change for radio gear. This sort of sets the mental standard. Low complexity, lots of plastic, easy to out together in a couple hours. I think the blitzer is a great performer out of the 'Old Guard' re releases. It will stamp something like a frog or hornet into the ground and be a lot less fiddly to work on. They're better drives than builds for sure! Pretty tough too.
  7. Look at where the red jumper is The one closest to the edge is for selecting battery type therefore cut off. I wouldn't blame you if you also want to use an alarm,
  8. 2.2" and yes they're same as the blitzer. Pretty much any 2.2" truck or stadium truck tire will fit. Buggy 2.2"s be too narrow, even the rears.
  9. Absolutely, it's a joy to work with - hard enough to form a proper chip. Nylon and the like can still be too "gummy" sometimes. Loving the progress also. Lots of care going into this.
  10. Looks totally dodge. Funnily enough all of these websites with amazing bargain prices seem to look suspiciously similar.
  11. I fitted a new prop shaft to my TL01. I bought a couple from a chap on FB and I am really impressed! Stock, 32.7gm Hollow carbon 4.5gm - Just a bit of saving! I don't think its anywhere near as strong as the steel but it's a great Richard waving part. The love affair with the TL01 continues
  12. I just painted my FXT tub, fully prepared for more scratches! I used Kobra brand spray as it's what I had, I imagine virtually anything will work though. I'm not sure it's worth getting anodised. The surface finish has to be really spot on for it to look right and it could be a way to put a decent hole in your wallet. I think powder coating is really unnecessary, like you say its not exactly easily replaceable to chance it. I have used both elbow grease and oven cleaner to remove anodising before. For this tub in particular I just sanded it down. If I was going for shelf standard I would have filled any deep scratches before painting.
  13. I lean towards tapping for m3 where I can and using button or capheads. Since a lot of my stuff is printed or restoration where actress have already been used it tends to be a mixture. I think it matters more the higher end you go
  14. That's currently in hips which is easy while I hash out the details. It seems to handle mild power well, it's had 20 minutes of sports tuned running without complaining. Large pitch and contact patch mean even in less strong materiels it's still happy I'll probably switch to nylon eventually if it's going to get run a lot. Or I can just print lots of spares and rebuild on the fly.
  15. Yes, I do lots of gears and bits and bobs for making small robots and prototypes.
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