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About Hobgoblin

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    Brighton, UK

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  1. RC4WD 2.2 inch super swampers on cheap beadlock rims. Tires go for £30 pair, 4 complete wheels plus 2 spare tires £55 Trackstar 75a turbo ESC, sensored only, no reverse and good upto 3s. Has leads soldered to it. £10 Hobbywing quicrun 10BL120 ESC. Sensored 2-3s capable. Great controller, good for racing. Has got capacitors added. £25 Savox SC-1252mg servo. Fast and good torque, not been used much at all. £25
  2. I agree with all of the criticism against it because I feel it's pretty valid! Very foolish to just plop it on a FWD chassis, if could be a real money maker if it was done properly. Surprised they haven't tried to capitalise on that sort of thing. Unfortunately I'm also going to be part of the problem because If I have the means and the permission I am buying one + a spare body set. I began making my own version out of a BSR M-rage chassis + montech shell. I was going to take out the centre shaft and the front diff for rear (ish) motor, RWD. I got around the rear stance issue using wide wheel hexes on the rear (not shown in pic)
  3. As a guy who used to work on a DHL service point (in a hardware & homeward shop) it made me never want to use DHL ever. I think I could count smooth transactions without having to restort to toes. Only time I'll use them is if the only other option is china sea freight.
  4. Some Falcon stuff going on in camp H. Some CNC milled aluminium front shock towers to replace the stock ones which are a universal weak point. If you didn't know you couldn't tell... Well not really but it's close enough to not look out of place given a quick glance. I also managed to get some cable so I could get it wired up and I can finally give it a drive. Still needs a bit of tidying up but the £7 1060 clone is happily hidden under the now defunct MSC. It runs now so maiden voyage imminent! Ta, H
  5. Boomer project dropped today, now I can start hoarding parts. Drive shafts and front arms already on order!
  6. I picked up one of those cheap austar scx10 clones and a hardbody. With eBay deals it was nearly half the price of an scx10 builders kit. Deciding on paintjob now (hardest part!)
  7. That's how much I hate doing decals, I'd rather paint em Hardbody painted from the outside, polycarb 1/8 scale painted from the inside as is traditional. I've done some real messes in the past but with time, patience and Tamiya masking sheets I feel more confident.
  8. ^^ spot on. In my opinion regular PLA is a fairly useless material for any working part. Good for cheap trials and tests. PLA+ is better but still the surface finish is awful.
  9. All depends on what you want. The two common ways are FDM (filament deposition method) I.e. pushing a reel of material through a hot nozzle and laying shapes down and SLS (selective laser sintering) which is where you blast a laser pattern into a vat of resin or powder and harden the shape that way. Sls can be like glass, huge quality due to the fine layer but generally very weak compared to traditional material. Resin does tend to be weak while beautiful and accurate, but powder can be quite strong sacrificing surface finish. FDM is often stronger but will have definite ridges and surface defects. Also depends on what material you're using. For detailed bits I tend to favour HIPs as it's lovely and soft, I can print very fine layers and it's a joy to sand. Next is abs as it's still nice and soft but takes a bit more effort to sand smooth. That said you can monkey with that with acetone to blend layers. For strength I like nylon (FDM or the sintering like shapeways) or onyx, which is a carbon fibre blend developed by markforge. I think the real push for printing at the moment is strength and speed, detail is slow and slow isn't sexy enough for the current market. I'm happy to print parts in as high detail as I can if you want to compare.
  10. The mentions of Maplin in this thread is a bit sad now I had one at work and used it often for rc stuff, nothing gets 20 years of stale fag odor and rancid grease like a 30m blast with dish soap.
  11. I test fitted my CNC milled aluminium front shock towers on my falcon today! I've moved the failure point to the bulkhead now, but with the rise of retro-engineered solutions or hand made brackets I should be able to seriously (relative to age) run this car
  12. Near (ish, 10 or so miles out) Bath there's a place called Dunks Models. I know they used to stock Tamiya stuff alongside planes, boats and static models.
  13. Hi chaps, I'm after a Boomerang, OG or re release no real preference. Fixer uppers very welcome, not super fussed on condition, not particularly interested in shelf queens as I have my own plans what to do and it would be a shame to undo hard work. Don't need radio gear, battery etc. UK based, PayPal preferred. Thank you!
  14. I think the chassis itself is very cute and an excellent successor to the CC01. I like the design and by looks the material looks like good modern Tamiya quality. It's a promising base and I look forward to seeing what people come up with! The bits I don't like so much are the price point and the body shell. The price (UK) is quite literally double what I'd want to pay for that. Even with the twin star magic blinkers I know I could buy a scx10 kit and a fair chunk of running gear for that kind of money. The shell does nothing for me, I'm not a Mercedes fan at all but that's a real ugly beggar. Absolutely zero charm and likewise for style. Horrible pick for a flagship body in my opinion.
  15. Ansmann virus 2. 1/8 scale nitro wasn't the best starting point! My first Tamiya was a Blitzer beetle which honestly I wish I'd started with (maybe stadium blitzer for the polycarb shell) that or a top force!
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