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Hobgoblin

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    Brighton, UK

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  1. Depends on the material and the printing process! SLS nylon is very easy to finish well with some light sanding, sealing then finishing as you would normal plastic. FDM ABS can be sanded or acetone smoothed with very good results, PLA is an absolute horrorshow!
  2. The body shell has been painted to match the internals, I'm not 100% on the shade choices, I think I should have gone brighter but I'm sure by the time I've run this truck a few times it will need a new body anyway and i can do a V2! I went with black for the grill, below the window and the panels behind the cage, regular gun metal all over and pink and blue for the detailing. I wish i'd got the florescent stuff! I think the gun metal goes really well with the wheels I still have a lot of decal work to do, I need to get some Tamiya and Futaba logo's on there, maybe even some Kyosho and LRP to fully represent the brands used in the car. It's a real mashup of brands - I think I have most of the common ones covered! Looking a bit more polished next to it's Stadium Blitzer twin. I will say I'm really pleased to be able to take this out for a run soon. I need to play with the steering a little more and add some shims (this shows the Tamiya roots) and away we go.
  3. I painted my body for the FXT Just need some more decals now Pretty happy!
  4. Chopped the body a bit and fitted wheels to the Sad Fighter masked and got the black painted on my Blitzer/Socker body More to come... Although the pink is a bit too soft I think, I should have gone for the florescent I think
  5. So the printed tower and Tamiya CVA combo actually works surprisingly well at the front! This only took a few revisions on thickness too - quite happy. I need to adjust the pink parts which are old falcon parts but it works for the time being So instead of the intensive nose job, I found that I could get the body to sit lower and further forward with the removal of these two parts of the roll cage. This was not done lightly as this is a fairly delicate shell with cracks already and removing 2 of the precious few non cracked bars could really bite me in the rear. Eventually I just bit the bullet and did it because its less involved than cutting and extending the nose and I will be aiming to make another bar further along at a different angle. I'll also tweak the rear shock tower too. It needs to be a smidge thicker anyway. I got some nice goodies in the post today, Lunchbox axles and some ball joints. I was going to get blitzer shafts but these were £6 for the pair and are the right length, so that beats out £5 for a single blitzer part. They fit good, although the stock hobbyworld ball joints are absolutely woeful. I'm now dead set on changing the lot out. I was hoping to keep a few as it's not the cheapest thing in the world to keep buying joints but they're just too awful to be usable. I have since revised the pink falcon parts to give slightly better geometry for this car. Proper mockup with blitzer wheels! I think I can dig it, although I just have sort of gone the long way round to making a rubbish Mad bull
  6. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-2-2-mini-spike-yellow-truck-tyres-pr-/rc-car-products/369924 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-1-10th-truck-2-2-foam-tyre-insert-soft-/rc-car-products/16890 I use these with stock fronts, pretty much any 2.2" truck tire will fit.
  7. I picked up some slightly oddball falcon wheels today Foam tires, bit of a novelty! I test printed a revised shock tower and fitted Tamiya CVA to my hobbyworld A07/Mad Fighter hybrid. I also got some nice finger burns from casting huge carbon bearings at work. 180 degree heated tooling ain't no joke!
  8. So the Mad Fighter body fits really well at the rear, the chassis tub and the body shape line up almost perfectly And I think I can get it to sit even lower and look really sleek with a new rear shock mount. As you may be able to see I have been able to reuse the stock dampers at the rear, despite them being a little bit horrible with a little in the way of seals, I see no evidence of O rings and no way to change them, they hold oil (imagine my shock, pun genuinely not intended) I have some black Tamiya CVA dampers for the front, these are from a Blitzer Beetle. I am currently printing the new front shock tower which works better than the odd aluminium plate. However, while it fits well at the back it is a nautical mile too short at the front. So it looks like its a chop job! Major Surgery and Colonel Filler will have to be called in. I am thinking of cutting along the dotted line and using ABS sheet to make an extender panel and then lots of sanding and excessive use of filler to get the shape. I am thinking it would be strong enough with liberal applications of adhesive and enough bracing underneath - it might look a bit oddball but that's totally in keeping with the rest of the vehicle. To complete this project I need: -14 awg wire - More printing filament - Primer - Tires (thinking some of the nice proline ones I have for my Futaba FXT) - Longer drive knuckles, like the ones found on the Blitzer/Aqroshot Hopefully a nice update soon with some shock towers and the front damper setup.
  9. I'd keep the Blitzer Beetle as it was my first and probably my favourite chassis! Hard to say no to the heartstrings. If I was totally thinking with my head I'd keep my DF01 but emotion wins out here.
  10. I found that a £6 esc fits remarkably well between the MSC servo mounts And I found a fan in amongst my spares so I thought it would be neat to incorporate that into the ESC mount Super quick turnaround, from start to part was well under an hour, I'd say about 15m measuring and drawing in CAD and a 26 minute print job later I had a part which fit surprisingly well. I love living in the future The fan is 5v so will get tagged onto the BEC from the ESC. I don't know if it will actually help but it won't do any harm and its a neat feature so why not!
  11. Yes I've used desolvit before and it's good. Seemingly difficult to track down now, can't find the liquid only a small spray version. Trying to avoid brake fluid if I can because it seems you have to leave it to soak for a while and I don't have anywhere to keep a tub of smelly chemicals, well no where I can keep it and not have the missus leave me I have such a hotch potch of paint on the shell too, which probably doesn't help things!
  12. Hello hive mind! Quick question for you all. I'm trying to strip about 5 layers of paint off of an ABS shell, graffiti remover (not desolv-it) didn't really do much in the nooks and crannies and I don't particularly want to get brake fluid as for a few pounds more I can get a Tamiya branded product which should be completely designed for the job - it's "only" 250ml but that should be plenty. Money being no object, is it worth getting? I'm referring to 87183 fyi. Cheers, Harry
  13. https://www.shapeways.com/product/YSJAACY4E/sand-scorcher-louvered-rear-sun-shade?optionId=60360038&li=shops for the rear window, bit pricey for my liking. I'd have a crack with some plastic sheet myself. Can't help with bumper, that's probably a custom job too.
  14. Just putting my 2p worth in, having had a couple of FTX vehicles in the past (Vantage). I genuinely like them and their business model, they're like a pocket money traxxas. They are super easy to drive and are durable for a given value of durability. What i mean by this is they have weak points that you will find very quickly but the right things break and guess what, they're incredibly easy to upgrade. Spare parts are really available from places like modelsport where you can get super fast dispatch and postage. Say you clip a post or land poorly, you aren't going to break wishbones or uprights, you snap a little plastic suspension holder which is £1.80 and can be installed with one size of allen key and about ten minutes. There's an aluminium version of this part for about a tenner. Spur gears are peanuts. That's my price point for upgrade. The consumables of a basher RC car are very reasonably priced . There's often a choice between carbon fibre and aluminium for upgrades too which is nice. Plus there's a few body options, with the beetle, the truck and the buggy being direct fits for the chassis. Might help with the twin thing! What I can't comment on is the electrics as the first thing i did was fit mine out with my preferred brands. They seem to be very passable for entry level systems at the very least - though i'd look at maybe a metal gear servo. If I could have a car to run guilt free I'd probably get a carnage and just keep messing about with shimming fettling and upgrading. (PS they seem to have a decent second hand market too, so if they don't pass muster you might not loose too much on the investment)
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