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Hobgoblin

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Everything posted by Hobgoblin

  1. I test fitted my CNC milled aluminium front shock towers on my falcon today! I've moved the failure point to the bulkhead now, but with the rise of retro-engineered solutions or hand made brackets I should be able to seriously (relative to age) run this car
  2. Near (ish, 10 or so miles out) Bath there's a place called Dunks Models. I know they used to stock Tamiya stuff alongside planes, boats and static models.
  3. Hi chaps, I'm after a Boomerang, OG or re release no real preference. Fixer uppers very welcome, not super fussed on condition, not particularly interested in shelf queens as I have my own plans what to do and it would be a shame to undo hard work. Don't need radio gear, battery etc. UK based, PayPal preferred. Thank you!
  4. I think the chassis itself is very cute and an excellent successor to the CC01. I like the design and by looks the material looks like good modern Tamiya quality. It's a promising base and I look forward to seeing what people come up with! The bits I don't like so much are the price point and the body shell. The price (UK) is quite literally double what I'd want to pay for that. Even with the twin star magic blinkers I know I could buy a scx10 kit and a fair chunk of running gear for that kind of money. The shell does nothing for me, I'm not a Mercedes fan at all but that's a real ugly beggar. Absolutely zero charm and likewise for style. Horrible pick for a flagship body in my opinion.
  5. Ansmann virus 2. 1/8 scale nitro wasn't the best starting point! My first Tamiya was a Blitzer beetle which honestly I wish I'd started with (maybe stadium blitzer for the polycarb shell) that or a top force!
  6. I use Schumacher 2" (for the CAT I believe) or my Bearhawk and I think they look excellent and don't cost much. I'm not sure how well a 1.9" would go, maybe if it's very soft it might stretch out. Be interesting to find out! Ps kidneys always fetch a decent price if you're looking for something less precious than a Tamiya to sell.
  7. The cw01 Pajero version is worse!
  8. ^total copy paste title. I've got 6 of these tires that aren't really much use to me as I only really use 1.9" 4 still in bags, two loose but never mounted. Pictures incoming. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=436269&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_absBRD1ARIsAO4_D3t2euKRzhGy0hKtguUSZX3VaEHu0DuNs4OwnDBF-sza58seOULBS70aArgjEALw_wcB For reference , same as these. Open to offers but not going to give them away. If they don't go then I'm sure it's justification to start building something new
  9. The boomer/winger is absolutely gorgeous! I think one similar is definitely going to be added to my 'want' list.
  10. This thread coming back up made me a bit sad! Picture of my bench at my old works which went under last month. Everything's had to be thrown away, returned or boxed up for storage Oh well, at least I have time to plan the dream setup now! Everything vital (hand tools, stuff for working on the 1:1 car, and the "valuable" Tamiya bits) is moved to the spare room. My workbench is the tumble dryer and I can do all the painting down by the bins for my flats - where there's a will there's a way
  11. With a Blitzer on a silver can it's not needed honestly. Plus the rear tires are pretty much decoration only and you'll need to change them after 3/4 runs. Schumacher make some great ones that look near identical but are world's apart. It's my understanding that when you glue tires you don't want an air seal. Some inner foams will probably be a good idea though.
  12. Sorry pal I missed your reply! Having more weight on the centre line actually feels really good for my driving at least. I think the extra weight on the nose that it gives improves the response of the steering. Keeps accidental wheelies to a minimum! Those rods are homebrew, some M3 threaded rod with some 3mm bore steel tube slipped over the top. The ends are from some cheap Chinese car that I was donated. Fast forward a year of being on TC and having built my first Tamiya and I'm back where I started on the Blitzer Beetle! Finally time to do a box art shell. I still like my MFP pursuit shell and I think, although it's not very well done I have some kind of duty to keep it for prosperity. It might get redone in the same style someday - but not today! Monster beetle bodies being way cheaper than blitzer or sand scorcher sets, I began seeing red... Then primer grey... Then many colours Starting off strong looking like a disaster, It's all up from here! (Also note the classy painting spot by the bins) I love Tamiya masking sheets. I'm never attempting anything without them ever again. The disaster continued with some funky approximations of the Blitzer scheme. My wife was giving me funny looks at this stage. "Well it's very... I like the green bits?" Ye of little faith! I see a line of cars and they're all painted black... At this point I started to relax a little as it looked like I had managed to not make a total hash of it all Well now, that's bit half bad even if I do say so myself. I'm impressed with the masking sheets and how well the paint went down. Happy Harry! My 3rd ever driver! Still looking like he's stuck in a K hole or he's been sniffing the glue but from ten feet away and full throttle it will look passable! This is where the buggy currently lies. I've managed to lose the blasted steering wheel of all things but it can't have gone far - he says knowing full well it's been lost to the aether. Ta for reading! H
  13. From someone who's first foray into RC cars was a nitro 1/8 scale buggy which I converted to brushless, 2650kv and 6s out the gate (I come from RC robots where 8-14s is common so 6s didn't seem as outlandish & foolish as it turned out to be) then second was a cheap hobbyking rtr short course thing, Tamiya was a breath of fresh air. My first kit was the tamiya Blitzer Beetle which is several long strides away from the first two. Super simple, but you got such a better grounding and relationship with the parts. I was fully expecting the silver can to give it the same performance as the toy grade Nikko I had when I was 8 but it was actually quite respectable driving around the car park on a 2s lipo. It kept pace with my friends original traxxas stampede (2wd, black chassis) and spent less time on it's roof. Nothing really broke, and it was predicable and controllable. Jumped well and was just so robust. None of the fear and danger of a 1/8 brushless weapon, none of the hobbyking glass canon either. As I fixed/upgraded my blitzer and added a second in the form of a eBay stadium blitzer he bought an Axial Yeti. Now axial is an amazing company and they do some incredible stuff (plastic + metal parts are amazing) but that thing was a huge pain. It couldn't turn without flipping due to the immense power, grip and softness of the tires. It was a blast on loose gravel and rocks but constant flipping + gripping meant breakages and I think that rig had about £800 into it before it was done and it doesn't see much use as it's heavy and powerful and takes a lot of careful driving to keep it on its wheels. My Tamiya just goes. It doesn't perform amazingly but you could hand it to a small child and it would be drivable by them. It doesn't turn heads or pull tricks in the same way and you'd be very disappointed in it if you wanted a stunt truck. It's going to be out performed by most modern cars. Doesn't mean it's not fun. I think Tamiya is a style and you either get it or you don't. Not a question of ages. Tamiya's heyday was more than a decade before I was born. There's 10 year olds in 2019 who love hotshots and there's 40 year old RTR guys who can't figure out how to build a TT02. Just speaking personally on the look of things, there's a lot of ugly bodies out there how. Look at how beautiful something like the Astute, Stadium Thunder and Hornet bodies were. Now it's there weird faux aerodynamic blobs adorned with 4 colour splashes and tribals. Ouch. And this is coming from someone who likes cab forward buggies! It's the difference between wearing a reprint of your favourite 80's band shirt and the guy down the market with the grainy prints of the grim reaper holding playing cards or too many wolves howling at the moon. I am yet to see a traxxas paintjob I don't find tacky. I think it's a niche within a niche and Tamiya fill the gap they made for themselves very, very well. By reputation most people know what they're getting into. If they were a new company and the last 3 years of releases had none of the branding they'd be dead by now. The history and integrity they've built up can and will keep them going. Fingers crossed for a respectable release in the CC02.
  14. Rubber bands just seem to increase the diameter slightly but more importantly add a bit more friction (rubber on rubber instead of slick plastic) so less slipping
  15. I've been watching those 250 odd ones on ebay for a while now. They haven't sold & the price is firm (I KNOW WHAT I HAVE, RAN WHEN PARKED) I think at an absolute push you might get £200 from someone very dedicated if the chassis + box is virtually mint. I think £150 is a more realistic high end however. Unless it is restored perfectly I'd say you're better off keeping it as is and selling it for restoration. For reference I've bought two fairly "well loved" falcons for £40 and £65, missing some parts and sans box. I'd try to sell on the forums or on a facebook page (tamiya legends etc) because then you won't take a loss with the ebay fees.
  16. On Monday I was given till Wednesday evening to clear out my workspace so all my projects have come home for now. My Tamiya corner: There's a lot more to relocate but at least my RC stuff is in the warm and dry. Fingers crossed my rabbit doesn't get the taste for vintage kit boxes and old plastic!
  17. Wired up a £13 sensored ESC in my Manta Ray and shortened the servo wires. Nothing super exciting but it now moves under its own power - cue getting in trouble for tire tracks on the kitchen lino
  18. Honestly it's a coin toss between the Falcon + Stadium Blitzer for tamiya's own Falcon by a nose. I think the 959 just edges out the 5 turbo for me in terms of real world livery.
  19. Just a bit of a backlog on Falcon stuff, still very much a work in progress. I'm a bit of a sucker for all things blitzer and when a couple of opportunities for restorations projects popped up I jumped at the chance to get my hands on a Falcon. This is where I started. It's a fixer upper! Someone had gone to town with black paint which was a bit of a pain but far from unsalvageable. There was a lot of play on most of the bushings and one side was almost completely locked up. Quite a bit of grime on the chassis! It all got a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner and a wipe down with some cleaning rags. Bearings were fitted in place of the bushings, not hugely exiting but the difference in play compared to bushings is always pleasing. Turns out those wheels WERE yellow after all It was at this point I started taking measurements, drawing and developing my own parts to replace some of the more hard to find/commonly broken parts Working on front suspension and rear. With the intent of making aluminium versions. Got to be careful with a harder material as you just move the failure point somewhere else! The rear shock towers were a much simpler part to reproduce and with some black anodising (left) you basically cannot tell it's not stock! I quite like the bare aluminium to be honest Kamtec and MCI to the rescue with a really rather lovely body shell and decals. I really do like the shape now I've seen it in the flesh and it feels really solid. For £14 I cannot complain. Not the best paintjob but it will be good enough to run with! A happy afternoon was spent decaling and finishing up these two bodies. I even did the drivers! Quite happy so far! Runner wheels and tires courtesy of Tony's Tamiya parts. The power system for this car will be either a Technigold or Technituned motor, 1060 ESC and most likely a 2s rounded hardcase lipo. I will be keeping the MSC and service in visual capacity. Lots still to do hope to be able to drive the car soon, although I might have to put RC projects to one side while things happen with my job. Thanks for reading!
  20. I painted my crawler body today. Red oxide primer plus good old tamiya metallic blue paint. I intentionally coated it 'badly' (honest!) to give it some rust and grime. I think it's rather effective. I found that the little plastic box my servo came in fitted a short 2s hardcase lipo really well so with a dash of red paint it became my rather bloated fuel cell i can nearly fit an interior now!
  21. I would be tempted to add in like a high voltage (12v ish, relative) 550 motor and perhaps add in an additional stage of reduction 3:1 crawler style planetary thing. That will give you the torque for sure. If that isn't enough and you need to go custom then I would suggest the motor and gearbox from a cordless drill. Super cheap and high torque!
  22. Slowly making headway on my Manta Ray, it's more mongrel top force now but I love it. I have a loose intention of taking it to a proper track someday, maybe it could keep up? Still on the list is a new lipo for it, turnbuckles, alu C hubs and universal joints. It all adds up worryingly fast! Long term project
  23. Hi, I want to know the best (strongest) way to join parts of a hard body together. Basically on a Blitzer Beetle (SS, MB etc) I want to join the nosecone to the main body, then try and fill and sand it so it appears seamless. I used the kit screws and super glue for my first one and it didn't not work but it eventually cracked and it feels like it's going to snap at the seam. Not sure if there's like super Epoxy or solvent weld stuff (I designed a product at work which is an Abs clam shell which is solvent welded together and it's watertight) or its best to king of melt it together with a bit of sprue and a soldering iron. Any thoughts appreciated, Cheers!
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