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Boddney

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Everything posted by Boddney

  1. I made a real mess of the spoiler. During the difficult cut out, the blade slipped and made a light score across the bottom section. I tried so hard to keep it safe whilst working with it but in the end it snapped across the score. I painted it in its pieces with a view to repairing it afterwards and that is the state it’s in now. It’s just sitting in place in the picture without it’s top on
  2. Right the paint is on and it unmasked. Here ya go, pics as usual.
  3. That method certainly works for me. And the result is spot on look. I’m well happy.
  4. You guys are good. Thanks again. The toe is now sorted.
  5. Superb. Thanks guys. Great advice as usual. Even though it will affect the handling, it’s gonna have to be done.
  6. Thanks @OldSchoolRC1. I’m really having to force myself to take it slowly as I often rush things and cut before I look or measure properly. It’s paying off I think. There are a few mistakes here and there as you can see in the pictures if you look carefully. See if you can spot them. Make a list and post it up. Let’s have a giggle. The MR2 is proving to be quite difficult. For a start the ABC Hobby Lexan is much harder to work with than the Tamiya and also there are loads of small bits to cut out and tiny angles to cut to the right shape. The rear spoiler was really awkward and I made a bit of a hash of it. I’ll see what it looks like once it’s painted. OK, I need some help please. I put the body on the chassis to see where it sits and where to cut the body posts. I just sat the shell on this and that to get it where I wanted it and found that when the front wheels are central in the front arches, the backs don’t fit in theirs properly because of the funny ‘toe in’ angle. Everything is fitted right it’s just the way the stub axle housing is made. What can be done, if anything please gurus? Pictures.
  7. I’ve started the main event. This may not be the end, it may not be the beginning of the end, but it is most certainly the end of the beginning. There’s a few sand out imperfections to sort but they shouldn’t be an issue. I added a picture of the remnant just for you @Jason1145 I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss any important instructions so I installed the Google Translate app which by the way is bl***y brilliant. Just point your phone at the Japanese text and it translate straight to English. Superb.
  8. Ok so I’m still doing bits on the mule Beetle shell having noticed that there are no shut lines for doors and boot/bonnet lids or lines where the rubber seals would fit around the arches. The only thing I could think of that would sort this was a fine point artists pen. So again, before and after pictures. Just need to see if the ink will stick to the plastic now after it dries.
  9. Ok so I’m still doing bits on the mule Beetle shell having noticed that there are no shut lines for doors and boot/bonnet lids or lines where the rubber seals would fit around the arches. The only thing I could think of that would sort this was a fine point artists pen. So again, before and after pictures. Just need to see if the ink will stick to the plastic now after it dries.
  10. Well thanks but if you look carefully you’ll notice that one of the rear arches has a bit of scraping and bruiseing on it and one side is lower than the other on the sill/step section. To stop the shell collapsing I screwed a piece of wood (a bit higher than the wheel arch) to my bench and moved the shell around it as I scored the plastic from the outside as that’s where the indented line was. I honestly didn’t score that hard. I did make the mistake of trying to tear along the score until it went off line a few times then remembered that you’re supposed to ‘score and snap’ I found in places it was awkward to score along the line using the wood method so just held the shell with my fingers behind the piece I was doing. So glad I had a practice mule. Bod
  11. You may be right @wolfdogstinkus. The Beetle has turned out really well. I’m so happy with it and I love the modern colour on the classic shape.
  12. Would that not be a bit corny and predictable? Anyway, doesn’t matter as that shell isn’t going on a chassis. It’s just my practice mule. I can see why you would suggest though.👍🏼
  13. I decided that the sensible option for paint would be to use the paint I have chosen for the MR2 just to be sure on the colour shade and that I was able to work with it. I know that sounds a bit weird but I’m sure you know what I mean. I would have loved to go with a different colour or even gone two tone with fading or a line but I took the sensible route as a newbie. PS-57 Pearl white is the colour of choice and I think it looks blinking excellent. As always, thanks to all who gave advice including my ever superbly helpful model shop, Pegasus Models in Norwich.
  14. I know this is supposed to be an MR2 build but I’m just so nervous about cutting the shell badly that a practice has to be a good idea right? As the Beetle shell is in the kit, why not practice on it. I used the score and snap method using a brand new blade on the craft knife and I was surprised at what a fairly decent job I did of it. I carried on using the blade to trim the odd nasty bit here and there, then finished off with a bit of light sanding. Here it is cut and masked. Next step, paint.
  15. Ok I took the chassis for a run to wear the battery down for its first recharge. Unfortunately it never got that far due to the rear tyres coming off. One came off it’s bead and the other flew up the road for what seemed like blinkin miles. What have I done wrong? Well I know I didn’t glue the foam inside the tyres as I didn’t have any ‘Synthetic Rubber Cement’ but I did glue the tyres on using Poly Cement not ‘Instant Cement’ as it says in the instructions. So friends, should I have followed the instructions to the letter or can you tell me what you use please? Thanks, Bod
  16. Chassis all done. Next step, learn how to do proper modelling and crack on with the body. I’m short on time at the moment so it might not be just yet.
  17. So my friends I decided I want to finish everything before doing any hop ups but at the same time I can’t live with the play in the rear suspension or the uneven ride height. So personal hop ups or Boddney Botches as my wife calls them are the order of the day. A very thin piece of hose pipe for the shock housings and plumbers PTFE tape to take up the slack in the end eye mounts. The PTFE tape may not last long during use but it easily replaced until kosher hop ups are done.
  18. Oh yes I remember those from when I built the Super Sabre. I found the CVAs to soft for the terrain I used, so I cut some garden hosepipe to put in place of the spacers to stiffen the ride. It’s all starting to come back to me now.
  19. To cheer myself up a bit I trial fitted the MR2 shell. It fits snugly with it still in unfettled guise and @firefoxussr you are absolutely correct in that the motor carrier does just touch the rear valence. That’s gonna need looking at later. Sassy Staffie wanted to be in on the act too. She’s such a show off.
  20. That’s what I’ll do then @TurnipJF. Thanks for the info. The play in every thing just seems excessive. King pins, wishbones and front suspension subframe have a lot, but the shocks take the biscuit. I was going to cut some plastic pipe or something to fill the gap at the top of the spring. There is a visual difference in ride height front to back at the moment. It just looks ridiculous.
  21. I have to say, the shock absorbers that don’t actually absorb anything are really pants. My teenage builds had oil filled shocks, but then they were off road buggies. Maybe these road cars are fine with these loose, wobbly fake shocks, we’ll see. I have a feeling I’ll be changing them. Once the suspension was on I just popped the wheels on just for fun.
  22. I’m still plodding on with my build. I’m really taking my time and as yet I’ve not made any mistakes. Here’s a couple of pictures.
  23. Thanks @Jason1145. I saw that during my YouTube marathon. A great life hack.
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