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Nick G

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  1. Yes the internals are pretty much the same. The JP suffers with a visible 'join' at the front of the hull where the top and bottom meet. Can be sorted easily enough though. Having built both I would opt for the Tiger if I was doing another. In fact I've built 2 tigers and 1 JP. Also personally I'm not a huge fan of the metal barrels. They are beautiful but the elevation units were designed for plastic so I find the heavier barrels bounce a bit and stress the unit. But That may just be me.
  2. I've built charging points into a couple of my tanks running NiCads . They work ok, yes it's better to disconnect the battery when not in use but a couple of them are complete ******s to get at ! I would never do it with Lipos , too volatile and need the balance lead connected.
  3. Result ! Great to see one of the early Shermans getting revived. Keep the pictures of the restoration coming.
  4. You will probably need to take the sprocket off, there should be a screw hiding behind the centre cap.
  5. I think that with the current situation in Hong Kong deliveries especially to the UK have gotten very slow. I ordered a part for an Airsoft build 'cos I couldn't find it in stock anywhere else and it came by surface mail, took best part of two months. To be faire the retailer did warn me of that when I ordered. So I wouldn't be surprised to find all HK deliveries suspended for a while. No sites in UK / Europe showing what you are after ?
  6. That would be very cool and since they did the XR311 the chassis is available.
  7. King hauler bumper would do the job if you don't want to go down the route of modding your existing one.
  8. I've found it works well, used it on 1/16 tanks to rust exhausts etc and its holding up well despite being on there for years.
  9. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Deluxe-BD27-Model-Scenic-Rust-Kit-Realistic-Scale-Like-rust/392692362310?epid=1922819746&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5b6e49ec46:g:RtgAAOSwCuBcbWdy&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkyMJZWL%2BqFSgQ3TOOe%2FNr7kQWEYPFMpn%2BqHrz%2FdIJFq5MC3WJqICso50InGrLPymS8daVvIo65OhNjs67SjQqJiiyLSTjJh0X5gjaMaBa2hWEWFfRihk8jxplqS8pHiAKExdPlWpozcbnbpcTCJK1Lb%2FEJgztbh8kQKx%2BbkzY%2FoPa0fXi8A7%2Blkz1s3pnpzeiQ3n4wb4NuvljIeoJ0hVtJM4PIZaaNp8vxI6h%2B8q171OLtoxwYnbIorPoA9ng7l04CRnH7nh6NpNj9Nqb3gSY1K6WKVrz8ao6D%2FZFPeNe541rtod0HOL3e0PR6I%2Bb4EwDL8uC3Km%2FG%2FpcoBqQWSy%2FUPnZ3itlnxcUgVlfUOK%2B3IKnGnxVhhfwrN2IeijkNrd3CIWIms%2FYkMRXiWbJWFPh34hvEcU2zEpKyHIURZs38xtlyDfka2hZVJy7Nd9bZb5%2BF3%2FuEQuLxfb6ctSfjZ1BI%2BeqEkPgaYy93OlGsLnmH3B9fQeMPLHpvniXVB9bhSOJYCfuzKUlyoWQtl0sMEDLDCUmXbggCaby1mVLsm0B9ARg0JXIXfmZ45uZZxZEaPhHOH%2F4MzGtzqqKlZGlK%2BlTi5l5mFeFmfSsLa%2FY6XmOSNJDExGv8oymcMdL%2FpuY9H6mlB16cuCpjuRnIwwcslAE0HUBUVCVn11sn3lhMWfx9O5WPpBiIZT%2F%2B9af5bOkCmGLbFwfgmtq4P1N0UVcToDc6e7kM2HuxcPXUpZ8aLbKdBoZu%2BcIjnkRgo07KFmcGSYL&checksum=392692362310fe95c018bfa948a19cdfa136d2ec11b9 try this, scenic rust. Works well on small areas of damage
  10. Leaving it unplugged will also put it into low power mode permanently, the MFC increases power when a trailer is coupled. As an interim you can remove the switch and join the wires so the MFC thinks the fifth wheel is active.
  11. It's supply and demand, if you don't like the price don't buy it. If everyone doesn't buy then the prices will drop but if people want it badly enough and do buy then that is setting the market price.
  12. Yes ....... Yes you do want a truck ! you can build it without the MFU and run it with a standard speed controller if you want and add light and sound later, there are cheaper options than the MFU. Do factor in though that you WILL need something for it to pull
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