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About ad456

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  1. This is definitely what a lot of folk have wanted for a while, me included. Very excited about this. Mount for a spare wheel on the back and also possibly wing mounts as well? This might not be a day one for me but I will definitely have one at some point. Heaps of aftermarket potential as well. Hope it’s a hit as it deserves to be. Im looking forward to finding out what the Tamiya eccentricity’s are!
  2. Are there any smaller indy body manufacturers over your side of the pond? In the vein as we have Kamtec. I Looked through McAllisters and RJ Speeds sites a didn’t find much for this size but I’m sure there’s more.
  3. I’m sure that’s what they said but I’ve now looked it up and here’s the current law according to Citizens Advice https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/if-something-is-advertised-at-the-wrong-price/ Buying in a shop Your legal rights in a shop will depend on whether you’ve paid for the item yet or not. If you haven’t bought it yet If you take an item to the till and are told the price on the tag or label is a mistake, you don’t have a right to buy the item at the lower price. You could still try asking the seller to honour the price. It’s the same if you see an item advertised anywhere for a lower price than the one on the price tag. If you’ve already bought it If the shop sold you an item at a lower cost than they meant to, you don’t have to give it back - they’re only legally entitled to ask you for more money if you’d talked about the price (eg £100) and they ended up charging you much less instead (eg £10). If you realise you’ve paid more for an item than it was advertised for at the time, ask for the shop to refund the difference between what you paid and what was advertised. Keep any evidence of the mistake, if you can - for example, you could take a photo of the advert in the shop window.
  4. Say nothing! In the UK the law is fairly the same, it’s ticket price regardless of mistake. How well that stands up IRL is questionable but those are your rights. I learned that when I did a temporary contract at the Co-Op supermarket 15 years ago. I’d assume it’ll be much the same now.
  5. It would be heavier that a 100% lexan body. If needed I can weigh it for you later if you want. Mines unpainted and still in the bag but the difference wouldn’t be a whole lot I wouldn’t imagine. it really does look fantastic. I think Proline do a 13.9” Chevy crawler body as well but it’s coming in a good bit short. How big is the Cen F450/250? Surely theres a way to fix the cab and bed together(shoo goo and screws maybe). Edit: scratch that, the Cen f450 is over 17” now I check and 16 for the 250
  6. I’d say you’re on the right track. Probably is very repairable if you can get the right part. Have you got the model number of the Rx or blown component?
  7. No worries, I was doing exactly the same thing a couple of years back and found that Traxxas Ultra and GTR bits are somewhat interchangeable. There’s a progressive T-Maxx shock spring too, TRX4957R.
  8. TRX8361 is what I put on top of my sets to give me a ball end to connect to. I’ve tried fuel tubing too but it was a bit restrictive still.
  9. @Wooders28 totally on point there on all counts, I was totally afraid of them and wound myself right up about it. Eventually educated myself properly(without the peer pressure to just jump in or the scare mongering of fires) and i use lipo bags to charge and a roller toolbox to store and a few years later I'm much more relaxed about it. I am guilty of charging/discharging without standing over them, albeit in a steel box in the shed. I'm so glad I did as it really is night and day over nimh. That said I still use nimh for a lot of my cars as some just don't really need the extra power for me, but for the models I felt that needed it suddenly they were sooooo much more fun!! Yeah, various chems have different properties indeed. I understand of all LiFe is by far the safest but have much lower voltages.
  10. There are many different technologies of lithium batteries. Lipo, LipoHV, Li-ion, LiFePO4, IMR, INR, NCR are the ones I know of. Most will be familiar with the first couple. IMR is the tech in the 18650s I use for my vaping as they are less likely to go crazy if I miss treat them slightly, only slightly though. The Lipo we use for rc are likely the most volatile as we put them through some of the worst treatment in our cars, jumped and rattled, knocked and bumped, over-discharged sometimes etc. The ones in phones are likely to be a different tech to them. Anyone remember the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 recall of the entire series? What a mess that was. And the hoverboard thing? And as @alvinlwh has experience of with his vape mod (and I’ve seen the aftermath of that in person) it can go wrong. For the most part Lithium is safe and when it isn’t it’s really not. To each their own choice, or “Risk-assessment” and I respect that. If you’re anxious about it then store them with extra safety measures or avoid if you don’t want the hassle. It’s all down to everyones own want and need. I like my Lipos in my cars as the power is a big difference. One thing to remember is ANY battery, NiCd, NiMh, Lipo can go wrong
  11. ad456


    Yeah, grab a 180 and it’ll be fine
  12. I know you’re not after repro decals but there is a UK/Spain based guy on eBay called Tamiya-reprodecals who does a lot and has 6600+ sales and 100% feedback. He’s upfront about materials etc and has an email address on his profile. Might be worth a shot if you get no luck here, I’m not necessarily endorsing or encouraging, more a share of knowledge if yer stuck.
  13. I think there are some of the parts on thingiverse. EDIT: aye, here’s the axle casings. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5137491 I’ve seen the gearbox somewhere too but memory isn’t on form just now.
  14. Yeah, but it’s a comparable price to the others now. No cheap rate like I believe it used to be but @alvinlwh has more history so can weigh in on that. I mainly chose it because of who delivers it to me, in this case Royal Mail. Our DHL, UPS, Evri, DPD, etc etc are contracted out to smaller(but still not local) businesses(Streamline, Menzies and Northwards). One contracter is owned by a Norwegian firm if memory serves right. Anyway, because Orkney is a bit/lot remote then the couriers use the ferries and they aren’t always everyday, dependant on route so take 3-10 days extra. It’s just the cost of living here, no big deal for me. Anyway, the point of that is that my delivery times will not really be much to go from given my location.
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