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I got a short course truck without an esc and stole my 106 from my clod to test it with a single 15t 550 motor. It ran ok for 5mins of trigger happy running but then it thermalled and had to cool down. Don’t really know if that helps other than to say that a 15t 550 likely is too low for it.

Would it be more of a moulding thing than to do with scale accuracy? there’s an injection point there on the clod and the scorcher

To me the TXT-2 was a failure due to the wheels. Great as it may handle with them it screamed out for clod sized wheels. It’s what everyone buying a solid axle truck that size wants I think. It’s a solid truck as far as I’ve seen but those wheels! Traxxas are indeed the ones without a hat in the ring at the moment. They have a terrible habit of creating their own standards but definitely have the skills and coverage to make a huge success of it regardless. I’ve used tons of their parts on my modified clods because they cope with it easily. Traxxas would have a big price tag too I’d bet.

The pounder has a cool looking chassis but that’s about it. I fancied the mtx and the cen but they don’t really exist in the uk so I just went with readily available Tamiya and saved a fortune by making my own chassis. Didn’t fancy an import charge on a us chassis. I was really expecting the SMT to be a better rig but you basically upgrade everything except the chassis plates and then it’s more expense to repair if you do break(or bend) the metal upgraded parts. The clods a funny one with the reverse motor which goes in the SMT10s favour as well. Hopefully the updated SMT10 will be a lot better but like you I’m not optimistic. Axial need to design axles for the purpose of giant wheels. They could do it easily. The other one I’d really like to try would be a kyosho mad/twin force/crusher fo-xx or whatever-it’s-called-this-week based truck. I’d try that over an smt10 every day.

Yup love me some trigger king. I made copies of the ramps in lockdown but went back to work before I could get them tested properly. As for the txt I’ve the same feeling but the truck is rarer and less robust than the clod when you start modding it from what I understand. The upper 4link mounts are a week spot I think and the C bracket on the axles are prone to needing reinforcements too if ya go hard. Ive not driven a txt or jugg yet despite having two jugs to put together and I’m in the process of getting parts for a txt together too for the scale appearance. I’m not a fan of the smt10 as it seems it’s as big a money pit as a clod with more to go wrong but I’ve never had one so can’t really vouch for that. Clod is simple and cheap(to repair). I expect that’ll be why. Despite being expensive to do, by the time you do a SMT10 right, ya may as well have bought a mod clod, I’d bet it’d be cheaper.

I’ve had a few eBay purchases come my way with a good old wood screw having been used to solve this problem. A bit like taking a gun to a knife fight in my eyes though. I think taffer is on the right track, an m3 or m3.5 will be a nice tight fit. if you wanted to use the supplied screws, a really small amount of super glue might be worth a shot.

I think the xl5 is very underrated and SHOULD handle it fine. As always your mileage might vary. I did look at them for my clods but decided to go with the EVX2 as it was designed for that (and I wanted to run 14.4v).

Cool, fingers crossed!

I have one on a wild dagger and it looks the part and keeps the COG lower unlike my Blackfoot 3.

The F150 Baja style body from 58495 would look good on that

This looks to be setup right except the colours for ch1 on the cable are the wrong way round. I’m gonna guess that this light kit has the wires for the servo on ch1glued in the socket the wrong way hence the servo not responding. Black and dark brown are the matching pair on all of my radio gear. I see yellow and black as the pair on the edge of that connector. What are your thoughts @Problemchild or @TurnipJF? it'd be easy enough to jus swap the pins in the servo socket and it should work(I’d put a tag the cable to remind me I did it though!!)

I’ve jus remembered it was odd about where the trim was. Like it didn’t want to re-center with the indicators for me as I trimmed a lot one way. It would favour the side that had been trimmed and stay indicating unless I quickly steered the opposite way. I wondered if there was a setup process for it that I missed. Similar to setting up an esc.

I’d love to see this! You could look for game textures to convert. I found this model https://www.models-resource.com/nintendo_64/toystory2/model/16897/?source=genre but I’m on my phone so can’t download/unzip it to see if it’s in a sensible format. I don’t know the site either so can’t vouch for its quality/safety. It might be a bit blocky but it’ll give a running start for drawing something up.

I got one of these around Xmas time, baffled me too until I realised the LEDs were all in the wrong places. it's not a bad wee unit for a cheap knock off but the lack of instructions or anything had me really stuck. I searched eBay for a listing that had all the pics of how it worked etc.

Yup, break them in in a glass of water with a couple of C cells. It seats the brushes and the water is a kind of cutting fluid I guess. Works a treat. I do it with all my new motors and I find they live a bit longer. They certainly are prone to corrosion from dirty water as my motors that get run in my clod when it snows will tell you. They don’t last long if you forget to rinse them out and there’s all the road salt in them. Edit : forgot to mention, for waterproofing circuit boards I use corrosionX. There’s a few YouTube vids around on it for rc. ive done a few esc, all my receivers and a couple of bec. I’ve only had one bec fail but it was a cheapo so might not have been to the corrosionX I suspect. Best bit is it would allow you to mount your esc etc as you are now.