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So I just replaced the pivot bars for the arms with the new re-re ones , left the springs off and it looks to me as the upper arm is too high and the lower arm is too far in to the middle. I suspect it's been dropped in storage or before i got it and I've never really paid much attention. Anyone have an ID on the arms so i don't have to replace them all?

@Busdriver, yeah the arm is fully on, its butted up without the spring and is the same position with it in place. I've just nipped and stripped the right side off and I think it must be the arms. The two bars roll on a flat surface without wobbling, there is a little play on the end of the frame where the bars come out of but it's an expected amount, nothing crazy. The arms seem to be the same when you compare them side by side and don't LOOK damaged or bent, the only thing that stands out is there is a small amount of play in the upper arm when you push it but the play is in the wrong direction to cause that. I think just a straight up full arm replacement is my way forward as there must be something off with either the upper or lower(or both) and i'm just not familiar enough with the SRB stuff to spot it. Edit: If the alloy centre cross bars are worn funny internally could that cause this?

As I wait for stuff to come in the post I was taking stock of what I need for upcoming projects. I was checking over an SRB chassis I bought some years ago for a resto-mod and when i put some wheels on realised the front right arms are all crooked. It is present without wheels but is brutally obvious with them. As there are a few different revisions on the arms I was wondering if there is anyone that can help me with what is wrong and what version of bits I have? I have checked the rods in the front and they don't seem bent but I do have some Re-re ones to fit incase I'm wrong. There also seems to be a touch of play in the upper arm on the right but feel the issue is with the lower one. To save me from replacing all the arms with Re-re ones I thought I'd see if any experts can point out what is up with it first.

I checked what type of sheets I’d bought and it turns out they are HIPS so I think that’ll be why I ended up with a “blob” like @Mh1986, are your sheets HIPS or ABS? And I’ll second Milliput and Isopon. I tend to use Isopon more often as it’s easier to spread on a bigger area and I like the smell

I wonder if the sheets are a different type of styrene as the sprues as I used sheet too.

The rod for the rear is part 3455007 and is shared with the Fox and Supershot I believe, I found that on eBay. If you’re struggling to find them it might be worth a message to Tony’s Tamiya Parts on eBay, he’s pretty good and can get most stuff. Or a wanted in the buy/sell part of the site here and someone maybe able to help you out.

I’m skint and need no more models but am getting a thirst for the Outlaw myself

I’ll get some photos up to show where I’m getting stuck, I’m not sure there’s really enough room between the shocks and frame at the front, especially when the axle is tilted.

You can just use the softened ABS as glue, that’s what I did and it stuck well when I tested it on other leftover sprues. I’m not certain it will mix “properly” when using acetone, this is probably due to my inexperience/lack of knowledge.

I’d say it is a bit wet. Throw more plastic in or take out some of your liquid. You’ve got the right idea going I think. Hopefully someone with more experience will weigh in. This is what happened when I tried with acetone, I wonder if actual MEK or PlastiWeld would give better results but in fairness when I used it it was fine.

It’s not just me then?! From what I’ve read the Outlaw is a cracking truck for just ripping around with. Not sure how it holds up over time but definitely looks good, if I ever get rid of my ECX Torment I think I’d replace it with an Outlaw. The slash might be more stable but I‘ve always found the super wide SCT to look plain odd. They can be good fun though! I think Team Blue Groove do the Tamiya F150, that would fit the TA02.

Ace, I’ll get reading and planning. Many thanks

Thanks @toyolien, I think I will enjoy this a lot. Sticking to scale is shrewd advice and something I’d have possible not done as I was going to be cherry picking from 1/10, 12 and mayb as high as 8 so would’ve been on a bad track from the start. Just out of interest, what scale did you pick for your build above? I think I’ll wait until I get my scale bits home and use them to decide scale and then maybe make windows etc to suit, balsa or something similar. In the meantime I’ll order some wallpaper to see how I like it.

@Gebbly, thanks, it’s kinda been flowing quite well. I may also be printing another body just now so there will certainly be one kicking around for a scale prop, or at least until I manage to save up for another V8 and transmission.

I really should buckle and join but I’m not on social medias. I’ve been watching RC Everyday for years now, I’ve finally gotten up the guts to have a go at a full on rod build after watching Josh’s builds many times. His garages are class too. the top pic is a few weeks ago now, I was still feeling out the build and the lower one is where I’m at just now, gonna split the rails soon and get a roller in the next few weeks hopefully. I’ve seen @toyolien‘s builds too, they are fantastic as well. A lot of skilled folks here to ask hence the thread and not just cracking on and making mistakes. I’m kinda set on having brick walls opposed to wood or large painted areas, I don’t really know why other than it’s what I’ve kinda chosen. I don’t really want vinyl wrap as it’ll have a sheen to it. I’m gonna chop up some wood and have a large slide door on the back and maybe a couple of high-up windows, not really decided on that yet.

I use that level of design the whole time, then scan it and get onto the MacBook and then print 5 revisions before I get anywhere and it still doesn’t look as good as your can. Most of the time my skills are a hooch style blend of “blind faith” with “ -minded determination”

Ace, you’ve got a good knack going. I’m looking forward to starting into styrene more, the 3d printer is good but there’s just a bit more satisfaction in hand made.

@Willy iine is that laminated sheet or bent tube? Looks the business either way!

The stuff that @Willy iine has been producing is stupidly good, I’ll be revisiting his builds once I start onto filling mine. I’ve got a big box of bits on the way home I bought(bench, shelf, tyre rack, parts wash, etc) so it should hold me for a while as I have a few car builds in progress before I can start practicing(learning) my styrene abilities.

@alvinlwh, I genuinely considered it but it’ll get expensive and very very boring!!

I’m currently on a slow build of a scale garage and have got a roughed out 3 walls with dimensions L48” x W28” x H20”. I’m looking to have a door that’s 16” x 14” on the back wall and probably a couple windows. I’m looking for advice on brick wall covering at the moment, I’ve seen this stuff https://tumdee-dollshouse-miniatures.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d361_Tumdee_Dolls_House_Miniature_Wall_Paper.html which sounds like it should be the right scale and have a subtle 3d effect to it. Has anyone any experience of this? And I guess does anyone have any experience to help me not make foolish mistakes in general? Edit: a picture sometimes isn't a bad idea.

This is definitely familiar to me too!

Definitely engineer and designer with some occasional driving. I love the R&D of getting something to work that’s not from the same kit/box etc or highly modifying what’s already there to do more. Kitbashing is where I’ve found myself spending the vast majority of my time these days. I do enjoy a kit sometimes but don’t find they hold my attention the same anymore.

This is ace, love a good mash up. Totally out of the box and looks pretty capable too! Well done man

Woah, I forgot about the plane here indeed, Hehe.